Building the Affordaplane Part 44
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2022
- NOTE: Future, follow-on videos in this series are now being shown at: / homebuilthelp
This is Part 44 in the how to build series for constructing the Affordaplane ultralight or experimental aircraft. This is a plans-built Part 103 ultralight aircraft that is easy to build. Our goal is to make experimental aviation affordable and bring more people into flying and building their own aircraft.
In this part, we show how to construct the upper control cables and rig the ailerons.
The complete video series is available for purchase (on a USB thumb drive) at HomebuiltHELP.
Visit: www.homebuilthelp.com/Afforda...
Additional Tip of the Week videos for the experimental aviation community are found here: www.homebuilthelp.com/Tip_of_...
Get plans for the Affordaplane here: affordaplane.com
Components for construction can be found here: affordaplanestore.com - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks Jon for continuing to present these videos. I can't afford to build or own a plane anymore, but just watching this project proceed towards a "real" airplane is exciting.
I purchased the plans for the Afordaplane a year before I purchased a '63 Beech Musketeer to replace the one Dad & I owned for 17 years, & regretted selling. I almost started building, then acquired the "Mouse". Unfortunately a few years later my employment situation changed & I had to downsize & retire on Social Security income. We moved to the Missouri Ozarks. Now the extent of my aviation is memories & dreams. I will be 80 next year, so not much time or finances to follow my dreams, but certainly enjoy keeping them alive with your YT presentations. At least I am still healthy enough to fly if I had the opportunity. Thanks again.
Thanks, Jon. I appreciate you posting these updates! Just a couple of comments about making cables. If you're using stainless steel cable, you should be using tin or zinc plated Nicopress sleeves to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion that can happen with the unplated copper sleeves. It's also a good idea to slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the cable before you crimp the sleeve, then shrink it over the exposed cable tail; this will prevent the cable end from unraveling and protect fingers from being poked. Keep up the great work -- I can't wait to see your A-plane fly!
On the home stretch now. Presented in a way any one can understand. Keep up the good work. Thank you!
Thank you for continuing the series. I hope to build one myself one day and you make it look very easy.
And yet another excellent video Jon.👍🏽👍🏽
thanks mate
Thank you sir Raghu from India
thank
Surprised a turnbuckle is not included in the aileron cable assembly for rigging adjustment.
Unnecessary weight and expense. You can add one if desired.
@@electoplater Yes good thing pilot weight not penalized against aircraft weight limit here!
In looking over the 2019 Affordaplane plans which I purchased in June, 2021, it seems to me that you constructed the aileron bell crank correctly, but that perhaps the original plan was not to use a shackle. A shackle makes for a clean way to remove the cable for whatever reason. Just thinking outloud about what I see on the plans.
Thanks for the clarification. From the video it was clear that he constructed the bell crank correctly. I was hoping he would explain why the plan part didn't work in his construction.
@@echopapacharlie Well, I’m not sure of it. Like you, I’m hoping Jon will clarify it further. I bought the plans and looked them over to follow along vicariously. I am not building the Affordaplane, although I would like to do so. Are you building it?
I showed in the opening minutes of the video why my 1st bell crank would not work if using a shackle. You can use other means of attaching a cable that would work - but I wanted to use a shackle.
@@HomebuiltHELP Understand. Unlike the other gentleman who's following your video while checking against the plan, I don't have the plan, so it wasn't obvious to me that choosing to use a shackle was the reason why the plan part didn't work. I appreciate your video series and your decision to keep the videos accessible to all. I don't own a plane nor am a pilot. But the seed of pursuing this affordable aviation in retirement is growing in my head, thanks to your videos and others like yours. Thank you.
10:00 Is the bell crank needed? Eliminate & extend the cables directly to aileron horns? Bell crank pulls the cable sideways on the pully...
Keep thinking that idea thru... How does a cable push the aileron the other way? lol
Yes: quite right.
Merit: the least moving parts and fewer cables around pulleys the better, yeh?
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G,day from Sydney Australia.
Nice instruction. Questions on my mind;
1. There are alot of marine ship chandeliers (supply shops) in Sydney. Would the materials, such as cables, shackles and hardware be accepted for experimental aviation?
2. I missed the stick assembly and shackles for elevators and aleirons.
Have you released a video on the construction?
3. Was that 1/4" stainless threaded rod or cut a thread each end?
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John, (1) If this were a certified aircraft we were building, then all parts would have to be of the proper types. Because this is not, then judgement would have to be used on an individual basis for each part - cannot really make generalizations that work. (2) Please go back and watch all of the videos to pick up on the stick and elevator controls. Often the description below each video has a quick summary of its contents. - Or - just watch them all! (3) The threaded rods I use (as in the plans) require no threading - they are completely threaded - just cut to size.
Thinking of the pulleys on the top of the plane before the bell crank, does it make sense to have them slightly adjustable fore/aft to modify tension to the pilots liking and any stretch to the cables over time? Also the mounts for the pulleys being more L shaped to make sure they couldn't easily jump off the pulleys? Could high wing un-loading cause then to do so?
Good idea on making those pulleys adjustable. Would need a little design effort - I dont like using slots - but there are of course other methods. My video on constructing the pulley assembly shows that I have created them in a way that the cable has no room to come off the groove!
@@HomebuiltHELP Thanks I will go back and re-watch it again.
Is the general rule to have 1/2” of material between the edge and any hole?
There are no general rules on this topic. The answer depends on hole diameter and thickness and type of metal used. Here is a video I made on evaluating edge distance in sheet metal - as per FAA guidelines: czcams.com/video/FY8Nn7_6Erc/video.html
It seems like you've built alot of the parts off camera between parts 40 and 44. I never saw a video of the ailerons, bellcrank, pulleys, control stick, etc.
Maybe ALL of that construction you mention is in a video prior to part 40? lol No skipping of video parts!
Did you use galvanized 3/32 7x19 cable for the ailerons or stainless? I see copper nicopress so I am assuming galvanized? Asking because the plans parts list shows it as stainless but I thought you couldn’t user copper with staineless.
I used galvanized. Both are suitable in certified aircraft. More than a few sentences needed to compare all differences! One that is simple to understand: $$
@@HomebuiltHELP Thank you. I have been researching, seems like galvanized is maybe a little stronger but more subject to corrosion, definitely cheaper. BTW, thx for your videos, I think, as far as youtube goes, I have learned more from your videos than most others regarding building or working on experimental aircraft.
Oh I remembered him, was he the grandpa on a viral video flying his aircraft invention?
I want a C D!
You need to teach your cats to operate a camera.
A bit to slow
Top right on YT is a Playback Speed button. Very handy.