PART 2 CLEANING LS ENGINE THROTTLE BODY | Chevy & GMC Vortec 4.8 5.3 6.0 6.2 Liter
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- In this two part video series, I show how to clean the throttle body on 5.3L LS engine in my 2007 GMC Sierra. This works on new body style trucks... '07+. Will also work on the 4.8, 6.0 and 6.2 LS V8 engines. Will probably work for older LS engines as well. I am performing this service on a GMC Sierra, but these engines are also found in the Yukon, Yukon XL, Chevrolet Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Avalanche, Trailblazer SS, Camaro, Corvette, Cadillac Escalade and the Pontiac GTO. Regardless of the exact vehicle, please check your factory service manual before starting.
Great video and excellent, thorough instructions. I cleaned my throttle body with no problem, but I left it in place and depressed the gas pedal to open the valve to reach inside the throttle body. Also, I found that disconnecting the battery recalibrates the throttle body quickly if necessary.
Cool! Thank you for posting that!
Thanx for the video. Not trying to be a smart-ass but I would suggest only using Throttle Body Cleaner because many of the newer throttle bodies have a special coating that can be damaged by Carb cleaners, Brake cleaner etc. And a side note on the TB electrical connector: After you remove the little gray lock tab, there's a black tab that you should squeeze to disconnect it from the TB so as not to break the connector.
DustyRusty
I cleaned a lot of GM throttle bodies but its no problem to open the throttle by hand.
The only thing under the black housing is a potentiometer and a motor. They will turn but that's no problem. The only thing you need to do before starting is disconnect the battery. Wait a minute, reconnect the battery. Turn on ignition and wait one minute. Start and let it idle for a minute. In that time the computer recalibrates the throttle positions.
i had a question bro if you can answer it i would appreciate it so i just recently cleaned my throttle body on my 05 gmc sierra 5.3 just because i had no check engine light on for it before so after i cleaned it i installed everything back the right way and did the 3 minute idle re learn well tried now when i turn it on it warms up good but once it warms up it starts to surge the rpm goes up and down then when i put it in reverse or drive it revs up and going into gear or to reverse, drive any when i drive it and give it a little pull to see it it feels good i feel good normal power but as soon as i let go the gas now it stays reved up or accelerated then once i come to a stop the idle kind
of goes down like slowly and just starts surging again do you think this could be my problem or what else do you think it can be i replaced air filter cleaned my maf sensor do you think this may be the cause of that before my truck wouldn’t do that it would die out coming to a stop though so i would just hold the gas to keep the idle from dropping all the way and stalling the truck but now it doesn’t let me even do that cus when i try it revs up on its own until i drive off
I know you posted this 9 years ago. But thank you. I’ve been searching for 2 days on a thorough video and you saved me!
Well when I cleaned it I pressed it open a bunch lmfao
Excellent camera work and explanations!! My uncle has been a GM mechanic for 30 years and you trumped his explanation! I was confident I could do this job on my own but was terrified to open the butterfly. Now I can breathe easier knowing if I mess up slightly, my truck will relearn and I won't have to get my truck towed to the service shop with my tail between my legs!!
+Carmen Wilson Thank you for the kind words! The best advice to give if your truck develops a high idle after cleaning is to take it to the dealership and have them correct the throttle position sensor. IF you want to take the time for the truck to relearn on it's own, I would advise driving the truck late at night when traffic is light. Thank you for watching!
Man, that was just great help especially with the tip on the "moved" butterfly. I had a lot of problems with rough running on idle or approach to the crossroad. I have read a bit and I did took of TB prior to seeing this video and cleaned it very well but... moving the damn thing inside. After putting it back my idle was just about 900 - 1000, now after around 60km (I am in Europe so use these measures) it stays between 500-600 which I am guessing is just what it should be. It doesn't stall on me anymore and runs much smoother. THANKS MATE.
for drive by wire. turn key to start postion and have someone push pedal to the floor and hold. the flap will stay open. just did both my tahoe and denali
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! Within the past couple of days there has been another guy with the same high idle problem that posted here too. He had to put nearly 200 miles on his truck before the ECU corrected itself. I did a little research after his post and it does not seem uncommon to have to put over 100 miles on the truck before it self-corrects. But my truck did self-correct in less than 60 miles of driving.
My truck did the same thing the first time I cleaned my throttle body. It's because you opened the butterfly valve by hand. This threw off the calibration of the throttle position sensor. When I cleaned the throttle body this time, I made sure not to open the butterfly valve. I had no problems after I re-installed the throttle body. For my truck, it took about 50 miles of driving before the ECU corrected itself.
Hey Milkcrate, THANK YOU!!! I am a hacker DIY mechanic and I am not afraid to tackle nearly every job. I have been ignoring this error code for several months, including clearing it about four times. About a week ago, my engine started running VERY rough and then stalled. I managed to get it started and limped home. I was ready to buy a whole new Throttle body when I saw your video. Talk about nasty, it was bad. I had to move the butterfly valve and it is idling high, but I do know that it will self correct. Bottom line...It worked..I have a 2007 GMC Yukon XL. 6.2L..Just wanted you to know!
What mileage for this start happening? When did you clean it?
Yeah. Thanks for the video. My idiot light came on today and the shop says it's the tb that needs cleaning and they want $120 to do it. I'm going to do it myself this weekend and have my son help. He can step on the gas peddle and I'll clean the tb while it's still on the engine. Thanks man. You just saved us some cash brother.
Talking from experience...when spraying the throttle body cleaner at the butterfly valve, make sure you don't point it towards the end of the shaft where it goes in to the position sensor. The high pressure spray from the cleaner can get in to the electronics.... then you need a new throttle body.
Thats why he said not to spray directly into the throttle body, but on a rag...
BTW. If one disconnects the battery for ten minutes or so. The Throttle body will relearn when it’s connected and he vehicle started back up , some will go away too. Then u can scrub all the carbonized bits off and allow the butterfly to close completely where manufacturers spect it to seat. Old toothbrushs work great. Race night!
Thanks, this worked perfect for me. I was about to head to a dealer for this repair. I bet. it saved me some major loot
Thx man just saved me getting charged 4 hours at the shop. Cheers
+Prestige Clash Thank you for watching!
I wanted to add that to reset the high idle issue I had to wipe the codes with a ODB2 reader tool ($30) then go through a few times of 3 minutes turned on idle and 1 min turned off cycles. Thanks
Thank you very much for your informative video. I did not know that messing with the plate could be troublesome.
+David S Thank you for watching!
One more interesting thing for the people who noticed that the butterfly valve isn't fully closed and wondering why that is.
That is a fail save. When the electronics fail and can no longer operate the valve you can still drive home because of the tiny gap. The engine will run a constant rpm which let you drive at a slow speed. In normal operation the computer will pull the valve complete closed when necessary.
The symptoms sound similar to the ones myself and others were having, but not identical. I do remember my truck running at a normal speed, but when I pulled up to a stop light, the RPM's would jump up to roughly 2200 RPM. They should go away. It took about 40 miles of driving before mine went away. It has run normally ever since. Hope this helps!
Just cleaned my 3.5L 5cly vortec's throttle body.
throttle response is soo much better now.
Dam PCV was sucking up oil.
Excellent! Good to know this works on other GM engines. Seems like GM really needs to address this issue.
*****
I did a Resinator box delete and ran a filter in the PCV line.
no more oil and got an extra 1.1mpg highway.
Really?! Cool! What kind of filter did you put in the PCV line? Where did you get the filter? Thanks!
*****
I took a Mr gasket $4 SBC breather.
drilled a 3/4 hole in the top and soldered a 3/4 barb on the end.
So its just a inline filter in the 3/4 PCV tubing.
I clean the filter every 3.5K when i change my oil.
Cool! Thanks dude!
I tried this on my 07 Sierra. My CEL came on and the code was P0121 which indicated a throttle body issue. I took the throttle body off (my first time doing this) and cleaned it with WD40. I didn't have any carb or throttle body cleaner. WD40 didn't get it squeaky clean, but it did do a good job. I didn't realize that you weren't supposed to move the butterfly (again, first time doing this). My truck did idle high and was a bit of a pain to stop, but otherwise, it ran fine.
thanks for the video i have the same truck and use a k&n filter I believe my tb is dirty again you have saved me 150 bucks.
You need a oil catch can because the ls doesn't have a pcv , or you can replace your oil cap with a breather . I use a billet catch can on my 71 ls6 firebird.
I've started gathering parts to build a catch can. I'll be making videos of that in the near future.
Dont unplug the drive by wire connector by removing the purple clip that is what holds all of the wires in the connector itself and also it is ok to move the butterfly especially the sensor is unplugged you wont harm anything, you need to clean the edges of the butterfly itself . I clean them everyday at a gm dealership, I never take them off of the vehicle nor do I unplug it, if it idles badly when first cranking it up just give it a few quick revs and it should go back to idleing normally.
So leaving the plug in the throttle body while cleaning the butterfly is fine? I haven't cleaned my throttle body since I've owned the truck. It's got 73k miles. I need to pull the codes and see why the stabilitrak and tachyon control disabled light abs light keeps turning on and off occasionally.
I had this done at a dealership and freaked out after picking my truck up and it idled so high the truck felt like it was "jumping." I suppose I wouldn't have freaked out if someone warned me, but it also appears to be a "shortcut" to avoid cleaning carefully and opening the butterfly... Why not take the extra time to avoid the headache?! I definitely called the dealership and gave the service department an earful!
+Carmen Wilson I hope you did give them an earful!! The dealership can plug the truck into their computer and reprogram the throttle position sensor and it wouldn't have had the high idle problem.
Exactly why I'm doing this myself. It happened all over again and I have to give them $121 just to diagnose the codes and release my truck! They want a total of $425 to clean the TB and to replace the evap purge solenoid and canister. HA! I'll be doing it all myself for far less money and headache! Thanks again for the video! Thank God for CZcams! Long gone are the days of OBD manuals on disk for me! LOL!!
Brandon Sartain hey Boss my truck idles under 500 and feels like it's going to die when I'm stopped in traffic. What's the problem there?
your video was very helpful . I really hope I did not ruin mine ... I pushed it open a few times 😬. but when I started it back up it seamd to be fine ... did I just get lucky . I definitely won't be trying it again but I do need to take if off and clean it or replace
I ran into an issue this weekend with my Tahoe stabiltrak / traction control turning off on the highway and reduced engine power. Took my Tahoe to my father-in-law who's a mechanic and he said the code pointed to a throttle body issue. After watching your video I might try to attempt this myself. Other posts online that are similar to my issue said that a dirty / malfunctioning throttle body is the issue. Thanks for the great video!
Give it a shot and see if it helps. It's a cheap and easy to do. Seems to help correct several different trouble codes. Good luck!
Yeah just drive it. Roughly 50 miles and it will recalibrate. Another guy posted a comment here about recalibrating the TPS. "take the + lead off battery then put it back after 5 min, finally put th key on ON dont start the engine and pres the accelerator pedal fully and release gradually that should be done in 3 sec.
this is how you re calibrste the throttle possition sensor" Worth a shot.
Thank you for responding back ill drive it for a couple miles and see if it recalibrate if not ill take it to a shop thank for your Videos. Have a wonderful year
+Lottery Winners You bet! Thank you for watching!
So did it work?
After pulling gray lock off connector, press black tab that the gray lock was locking. Carb cleaner just stripped the coating. Now you'll be cleaning every few weeks.
After you pull the little white clip off you are suppose to push down on the tab where it was. That lifts another clip that is holding the plug on.
Your video saved me a ton of cash.
I've opened the throttle while cleaning it many times.
Me to
walter kersting me 3, it didnt do anything
yep, NO PROBLEM to open the butterfly gently. It just spins the servo motor and reduction gear.
The TPS is a *contactless" magnetic hall sensor. So it is ultra reliable. (The cheap tps are with slides on tracks)
The one good thing to do while servicing the part is SILICON GREASE the internals ( shaft and teeth ) - I dont see a way to lube the shaft. Spring is surprisingly strong and made of stainless steel. Meaning the DC servo Motor has to put out serious torque to open the flap... shaft may deserve to get lubed?
Me too.. many times.
It will only throw off sensors if you try to clean it without removing it and its plugged in but being removed completely wont cause no harm opening it
I should have watched your video before just reading the Haynes manual. I had a code for an issue with the throttle body gasket, replaced it and cleaned the throttle body. However, the Haynes manual doesn't state not to press on the butterfly value, which I did, multiple times. I only experienced the high RPMs when it was idle later in the day. Today the problem seems to have went away, so maybe the ECM recalibrated?
I just cleaned. My throttle. Body. Runs Better. Thanks. For the vídeo
Gregory Briggs You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
do you have a video to how to change a pcv on a suburban 07-08 and no autozone cares the part but they have the universal part
Gregory Briggs I dont think a 2007 has a pvc
putting to much oil on K&N filters is a HUGE problem. We see that shit all the time at our shop!
But usually it destroys the MAF sensor first
Mine did that too. I unhooked the battery for about 20 minutes started it up and ran fine. Never had a issue after that
Thanks for sharing bro. I was able to fix mine up
jry hdz Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Start it and see what happens. Mine maintained a high idle for a little while. About 2200RPM. It did eventually work itself out and now runs normally. But it took roughly 40 miles of driving for it to re-learn. I'll be honest, it's really un-nerving to drive it with the high idle. When you're stopped at a red light, you will be standing on the brake trying to keep the truck from ramming the car in front of you. Drive it at your own risk. You can also have it towed in for service.
Great video and well explained. I am going to do my 2012 Yukon with a 5.3 and it looks identicle to the one in your video.
Thank you.
Hi I have a escalade 2007 and I have problem whit it the show power engine reduced? Do you know what is the problem?
It should fix itself. My truck did the same thing. It took about 40 miles of driving it with the high idle, but it did correct itself. My truck has run fine ever since.
It's the PCV that's getting carbon into the throttle body. I have a K&N filter too. At first I thought I had over-oiled the filter, and it was oil and dirt accumulating on the throttle blade.
I used a small extention and a swivel socket
I do not recommend doing this unless you have a proper scan tool so you can do idle relearn after you clean it. The let run for 3 minutes, cut off 1 minute, run 3, off 1, run 3 and off 1 did not work on our 08 2500HD and I didnt dare put it in gear idling at 2300rpm. I went ahead and bought a $730 autel scan tool and did the idle relearn (took like 1 whole minute lol) and she's perfect now. Just trying to help folks not get into the same situation I did. I might go ahead and keep this tool honestly as it does soooooooo much. Example 80psi is WAYYYYY too much pressure in the rear tires of an empy regular cab long bed 3/4 ton 2X4. Bounce all over the place but run less air and your tire light is on non stop. Not any more lol. I reprogrammed his truck to 60psi rear ;o)
Thankx for your time. I have to pull the injectors tomorrow figure I'll do this while I'm in there.
Mitch Amatrudo Thank you for watching!
Get a buddy to help with this! turn the key to run position with out starting the engine. Have them step on accel. peddle which will open throttle plate then you can clean it while still on the engine. It is not recommended to move the throttle plate at all by hand on drive by wire it may not correct it self which will require reprograming computer to correct and recalibrate the throttle plate positioning sensor!
Yours must be different than mine - mine 2003 Suburban has coolant lines coming in and out. I move the throttlebody butterfly all the time when I have removed mine for cleaning I even stick a screwdriver handle in there to keep it open while I clean it. I replaced the position sensor as well and in order to do that properly you have to move the butterfly. So I’m not really sure what you’re talking about when you say don’t move that. It does absolutely nothing for my Suburban. The motor drives gears which then drives the position sensor. Opening and closing the butterfly as long as the motor is not locked which it isn’t should do nothing. You’re not gonna get it cleaned properly if you can’t open the butterfly
Nice video! Some info from me:
If you have a very dirty throttle body, spray some penetrating oil on the black crab/carbon/oil residue and let it sit for a while. It softens it up so you use less expensive carb cleaner.
Good tip..kroil works nicely for me.
Awesome! Happy to help!
Great video,,, watch and learn...straight forward.
I cleaned my throttle body and know its idleing high what do i do?
its carbon from the EGR system, plus you'd have the idle air control built into the throttle body..... that's the reason for the small opening under the butterfly.
What EGR ?
Jc P EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation.
The overwhelmingly primary source of crud in TB's is nearly 100% PCV atomization. Hate it (PCV) but nothing one can do other than change your engine oil less than 2,000 miles (yep, you heard that right - dirty oil precipitates dirty atomized mist which is what you are seeing in dirty TB's - as well, all the way down to the injector intercept point in the runners), periodically spray clean the TB (again, avoid opening the butterfly) and that's that.
i have a 2008 malibu ls 2.2 eco tec it will start and idle but once i push the throttle it dies or wont idle up have any suggestions on what the problem would be
Great video by the way you had most of it covered but I thought I would clarify a couple of things
Milk in your video you said you were going to fabricate your own intake tube.... did you? Where would you plug in the PCV plug?
you do man very thorough bro! ty
Thank you sir! Glad I could help!
Great video man well helpful. I only wish you or someone can make a video on a easy way to remove those last 2 spark plugs on the passenger side on a 5.3 2007 GMC or Chevy vehicle. I think the mechanics who work at the dealership asked the engineers who designed the motor to make it difficult to change so people have to bring the vehicle in to make money. Thanks
I changed the spark plugs on my truck once... you're right, it's really tough back there. While I didn't make a video of it, I'm pretty sure I wrenched those out from under the truck. Hope this helps.
Kacy Tripkovich I finally gave in and removed the passenger wheel and wheel well shroud to access these. It takes a little more time but removal is a snap then. I actually messed up my left index finger top joint slightly trying to tug at these during removal. Good luck
I really wish i'd seen your post sooner,couldve helped
you out! Condor5635 is right.....but i didnt even remove the wheel, just the well shroud. I couldnt explain how easy it was then.
milkcrate82 i had an plb buick that was like that drlled holes in the inner fender that lined up with those cylinders the size of the socket so i could service those
Use a spark plug socket with a wrench on the flats. Works like a champ. This gives you the clearance and the wrench gives you the torque.
Hi i just watched your video and cleaned mine. Hope that solves my problem. thanks
Just cleaned my TB but i moved around the butterfly thing, whT do you recommend for the computer can re learn the calibration?? Drive on the highway??
Great videos by the way
twisted214mindz If it's acting up (surging, high idle), then I would drive it on the highway for at least 30 miles. Exit the highway and see if the problem still exists. If so, drive it some more on the highway until it stops. Try to do this late at night or on the weekend when traffic is light.
Thanks for the video, really helpful!
If you live in a rural area, it may be safer for you to drive. I live in a big city with lots of traffic. If you live in a big city also, you could take it out on the freeway at night after traffic dies down where it might be a little safer. I know that it WILL fix itself. But like I said, driving it might be scary until it fixes itself. Be careful. The dealership can reprogram it with their computer quite simply if you want to have it towed there.
The Code is “P0121”
Hello Mike, nice video! I have a 2010 Chevrolet Silverado Crew Cab with the 5.3L engine. I too have a drop in K&N filter. My truck is bucking and hesitating at low speeds, and from what others are telling me in the GM forums is to clean the throttle body.
I'm going to try this first because the truck is running like crap under loads, especially when towing. Just to note, the check engine light is NOT coming on, nor did it ever.
Thank you
My truck gets the same symptoms about every 8000-10000 miles. The check engine light doesn't come on. I always clean the throttle body when I feel it bucking and hesitating a low speeds. Fixes the problem every time. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot for this! Great video
When you shut the engine off you get a bit of back spray of fuel and that adds to the carbon build up , but yes it also comes from the PCV valve . Oh yeah never ever oil an air filter , this will foul the MAF sensor with oil and can give problems , with the fuel/ air ratio .
commodore665 If you have a K&N air filter as this person clearly stated he does it comes pre oiled and when you clean it you must oil the filter.
Jeff Bailey
oiling the filter is not needed at all , even if it's a K&N , as mentioned if the car has a MAF sensor the oil can foul the wires on the sensor , and may cause a faulty reading .
commodore665 not true at all! direct injection vehicles have the same issue but guess what no "back splash" of fuel. that's just dumb for more than one reason. it is a mass majority due to pcv system with a very very small mixture of dirt getting by your filter
Thank you very much for this
Does it have a high idle? If so, just drive it... carefully. It will re-calibrate itself after 50-75 miles of driving.
thanks guys imma go try it!!!ill post what happens later!!
thanks bro i had that problem high rbm and thanks for that video
i had a question bro if you can answer it i would appreciate it so i just recently cleaned my throttle body on my 05 gmc sierra 5.3 just because i had no check engine light on for it before so after i cleaned it i installed everything back the right way and did the 3 minute idle re learn well tried now when i turn it on it warms up good but once it warms up it starts to surge the rpm goes up and down then when i put it in reverse or drive it revs up and going into gear or to reverse, drive any when i drive it and give it a little pull to see it it feels good i feel good normal power but as soon as i let go the gas now it stays reved up or accelerated then once i come to a stop the idle kind
How long has it been doing this? My truck did the same thing the first time I cleaned it. It took about 2 days for it to correct itself. It really comes down to the amount of time the engine is running. Mine cleared itself up after driving between 50-75 miles... which took me about 2 days. Be VERY CAREFUL driving it while it's doing that. Give yourself plenty of space between other cars on the road... especially at a stop light.
I've read on forums that you should clean the sensor also. It's the black piece connected the the throttle body attached by clips. Have you experienced this?
Thanks for posting this video. I should have never open the vent when cleaning. It's fine but when I'm in park or neutral it would climb up to 2,000 rpm. I hope you are right I have about 60 miles of driving to do. Thanks mike
Hey man I know this is 8 years old but did your truck ever return to normal??
Great work. Looking to do this on my '12 1500 next weekend (it's been 30k miles)
+Andrew Rose Go for it!
Thanks. Excellent job.
Ropie65 Thank you for watching!
thanks for video, did my 2008 silverado
+Richard Garza Thank you for watching!
of goes down like slowly and just starts surging again do you think this could be my problem or what else do you think it can be i replaced air filter cleaned my maf sensor do you think this may be the cause of that before my truck wouldn’t do that it would die out coming to a stop though so i would just hold the gas to keep the idle from dropping all the way and stalling the truck but now it doesn’t let me even do that cus when i try it revs up on its own until i drive off
Was there any reason not to simply remove the disc with the 2 screws and that way don't change the opening but make room to clean?
Never use carburetor cleaner on the throttle body, that is a specific no no . However you can use brake cleaner . A lot of the plates are teflon coated, not to mention seals at the valve could be damaged by carb cleaner. Most service manuals warn against this.
Paul Ware brake cleaner is just as "harmful" as carb cleaner unless you buy the panzy California brake clean. you won't hurt anything by spraying a rag then using rag. don't spray any chemical or liquid into tb and your good
Thanks buddy you help me really good
Just got done with my 2012 silverado and night and day difference Was so dirty. Butterfly valve is stained though. I used throttle body cleaner,carb cleaner can says not to use on throttle body's. Great vid only took about 30 min,sure it can be done faster but mine vas really dirty and took some time getting crack between butterfly valve and body.
CaptCaaaveMaaan I'm glad this video helped! Thanks for watching!
Yea man, new subscriber
Would cleaning this help with 1st into 2nd hard shift along with replacing the tps??
So dude cleaned mine today and yes it had the high idle you say drive it about 50 mile...by the way great video should have watched this frist he opened mine with the gas pedal but must have knock it out.so i shouldnt open it back up just drive it???
Thanks for the help, sir!!
+Bear Getoffmylawn Brown You bet! Thanks for watching!
Okay so what should I do if i did indeed push on the butterfly valve, prior to watching this video?
Good video but, first off your should unplug your battery and let the computer completely shut down for 15 mins. then unplug the tb and you can play with that butterfly valve all you want it won't hurt it. If you don't or didn't prior to watching this video and reading the comments you probably will have to do what they call it throttle body relearn ( which you can find on CZcams) it's very simple just takes a little bit of time. Play around with in the next day or so at Max it'll get back to normal.
My truck has the same system as yours. I did wrong to not work as before? when I put D alone accelerates up to 1.7K RPM.
The oils from the K&N air filter are also a big enough contributor to the throttle body being dirty, at least with mine it is.
I think you are probably right about that. I stopped being so liberal when re-oiling my filter. I've cleaned my throttle body several times since and it's not as oily.
They are amazing filters and the extra work is well worth the time and money saved
Well ive tried everything in the book now it idles ok till i to come to a stop,then it wants to pull a bit,at a complete stop its ok now when in park it idles ok but if i give it a little throttle it jumps back up and stays around 2000-2500 rpms...so i orderd a new throttle body...and sticking to the "if its not broke dont fix it"
Hello! I have a 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche Vortec 5.3L V8. I cleaned the throttle body without remove the negative battery terminal. When i put it on again, the throttle goes up at 1.7 K RPM. Someone told me I should reprogram the truck's computer. I'm worried and not to do. I thought this might not change the status of my truck. what should I do? thanks
did it go back to normal???mine is doing the same thing!!
If you do end up needing a recalibration after a TB cleaning, don't just drive the truck around at high idle. Shifting from Park to Drive at 1500 RPM is HARD on the transmission and setting at a stop light at 1500 RPM is hard on the torque converter. Take it to the dealer and they can perform a relearn on the computer for about $60.
You would also have to factory in $80-100 for a tow to the dealership. But still cheaper than having to rebuild or replace a transmission. I wasn't comfortable driving the truck around with the high idle for fear of damaging the transmission. I live very near a freeway and I drove my truck there at freeway speeds until the truck recalibrated itself. I haven't noticed any damage to my trans... but you make a good point.
***** i have an 07 sierra did a Tb clean and realized i made a mistake by moving the plate while cleaning after watching this. -_- . does the tb always recalibrate itself if you drive highway a lot? or is there any other way to recalibrate beside taking it to the dealer?
Good video, Thanks!
I will try that thanks.
nice video !
Thank you!
I was told thats how u recalibrate the tb tight after cleaning it
Thanks for posting. My 2007 Tahoe just threw the P0121 code. My question is why didn't you clean the manifold side after you removed the throttle body? Is it not necessary? If you did do it, how? Did you just spray the cleaner in? Thanks again. Attempting to do mine this weekend. PS. does the buddy method of pressing the pedal while off open the valve and can clean that way?
I barely cleaned the inside of the intake manifold. It's really not super necessary. The carbon deposits screw up the sensors in the throttle body. Basically, I sprayed some carb cleaner on a lint-free rag and wiped the inside of the intake as far as I could reach. I've never tried the buddy method, but I imagine it would work just fine.