About Polyurethane Wood Finish - Refinishing Furniture
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- Explore important characteristics and choices of polyurethane. A 40 plus year woodworker reviews the things you should know about polyurethane wood finish. Before you run to your local paint store, hardware store or big box store be sure you watch this first. Polyurethane wood finish is loaded with manufacture choices. Polyurethane wood finish is a great product but there are certain characteristics that you need grasp to avoid a plastic look but instead achieve a professional finish of which you can be proud.
Which is better oil or water based polyurethane? I’ll show examples of all 3 available sheen choices. You’ll see a side by side comparison of wipe on vs brush on polyurethane. We review the importance of thinning to avoid bubbling. The number coats depends on your use. We’ll discuss the number of coats you’ll need to put down. And I’ll explain why Fast Dry is a marketing gimmick and a potential detriment to a quality finish.
All this and more. So
If you are new to polyurethane be sure to watch this all the way until the end so you don’t have to watch my other video Fixing Polyurethane bubbles, puddles, runs and brush marks which has over one half million views.
Please leave comments and ask questions. I really do love to hear from y'all.
You can for free view, choose, download and print any or all of my 1-2 Page Summary Sheets from my website HERE:
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0:00 Intro
1:46 Fixing polyurethane Mistakes
2:18 Wipe-On vs. Brush-On Polyurethane
3:15 Polyurethane PROS
3:53 Polyurethane Uses
4:01 How Many Coats of Polyurethane
4:10 Why Proper Thinning Is Essential To Avoiding Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks
4:30 Water Based polyurethane vs Oil Based Polyurethane
5:07 Why Fast Dry Polyurethane Is A Disaster Potential
5:32 Durability Water vs oil Based Polyurethane
6:53 Polyurethane and Ultraviolet Rays
7:24 Polyuretahne Negatives
9:37 Polyurethane Sheens - Gloss, Semi-Gloss, Satin
10:40 Polyurethane Deep Reflective Sheen Essentials
13:31 Water vs Oil Based Polyurethane Appearance
14:35 Wipe-On vs Brush-On Polyurethane
VIDEOS:
Project Preparation:
How to remove paint from wood | Beginner Guide | Part 1 - • How to remove paint fr...
How to remove paint from wood | Beginners Guide | Part 2 - • How to remove paint fr...
Chemical Strippers vs Heat Gun - • Chemical Strippers vs ...
Sanding Efficiently - • Sanding Wood Beginners...
Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper - • Choosing the Right San...
Finishing:
How to stain wood | Beginners Guide | Furniture Refinishing - • How to stain wood | Be...
Blotch-Free Wood Stain Technique - Refinishing Furniture - • Blotch-Free Wood Stain...
Clear Wood Finish Choices - • Clear Wood Finish Choi...
Paul's Combo Finish - • THE Best Clear Wood Co...
About Polyurethane Wood Finish - Refinishing Furniture - • About Polyurethane Woo...
Apply Polyurethane without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks - • How To Apply Polyureth...
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane - • When and How to Wipe O...
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Varnish - • How To Apply Spar Uret...
How to Apply Tung Oil - • how to apply tung oil ...
Clean Up:
Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks - • Fixing Polyurethane Bu...
Proper Brush Cleaning - • Proper Paint Brush Cle...
WEBSITE: paulsdiy.solutions/
ARTICLES:
Project Preparation:
Step by Step Guide to Refinishing Furniture
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Sanding Efficiently
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Finishing:
Choosing the Right Clear Wood Finish
paulsdiy.solutions/refinishin...
How To Apply Tung Oil Properly
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Blotch-Free Wood Stain Application Technique paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane
paulsdiy.solutions/refinishin...
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Varnish paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
How to Apply Boiled Linseed Oil - Tips and Technique
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori... - Jak na to + styl
I am refinishing a beautiful 103-year-old dining room table. I love your videos.
Thanx Techguy. Wish I had your tech knowledge! best . . . paul
As a newbie this was one of the better vids on this
I just finished building the new bar in our basement entertainment area. Thanks to your instruction Paul I got what I believe is the best polyurethane finish I've ever achieved on one of my projects.
Fantastic!Hey GC. Thanx for the feedback. Glad it turned out! Any Makers Mark behind the bar? If so what's the address?? LOL. Glad to be a part of the finish. best . . . paul
Thank you so much for spending your time to share your knowledge! Most definitely helpful and much appreciated!!! 😊
Hey Johnna. My pleasure thanx for your feedback and watching. best . . . paul
WOW! You are definitely the go to guy for finishing wood. I've always been intimidated by finishing. You've made it all make sense and easy to understand. Thx!
Glad to be of some help JMJ. Thanx for watching and your feedback. best . . . paul
Thanks, for what you do. Fantastic videos.
Thanx Richard. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul
Hiya Paul; nothing better than watching and learning from a master craftsman. Thank you for you sharing your craft and knowledge.
Hey User. Thanx for wartching and commenting. best . . . paul
PAUL You Are The Master Of Your Craft. You Learn So Much. Don’t Stop Thank You For Sharing.
Thanx Jim. Thanx for your kind words. Will you share that sentiment with my wife? )Never mind she'd just think I paid you.) Anyway thanx for watching and your feedback. Glad I could be a small part of your crafting. best . . . paul
Paul . No Problem. Tell Your Bride You Should Be Happy To Have Paul In Your Life. OOH. If I Have Any Questions, I’m Getting In Touch Again.
@@jimstools3937 I tell her that every day. Does no good.
After ruining my project from “ learning “ on other CZcams videos, I’m grateful I stumbled across your channel; a master craftsman expertly teaching me the best approach to finishing. Thanks to your methods and clear guidance I was able to save my project , and it’s coming out great!
Hey Joseph. Thanx for the compliments. Would you do me a favor and repeat this to my wife??!! Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul
Hey Joseph. Gald to hear! Thanx for watching and your feedback. best . . . paul
Thanks so much for your vids, helps so much!!!!
You are welcome Riley. Thanx for thge positive feedback. best . . . paul
Simply awesome video :)
Thanx again GC. best . . . paul
Awesome tips thank you sir!!!!
Thanx lololine. Appreciate your feedback. best . . . paul
Great videos. Thank you.
Hey Jeff. Your welcome. Gald to be a small part of the journey. best . . . paul
learned a lot ...Thanks
Hey User. You're very welcome. Glad to be a small part of your journey. Thanx for watching and your feedback. best . . . paul
Thanks for the video! It’s helping me see what I did wrong with my first attempt at refinishing my oak dining table.
Do you apply grain filler before or after the wood stain? Would you recommend a satin or a semi gloss polyurethane for a dining table?
Hey kathy. Personally I would not use a grain filler with either satin or semi-gloss finish. Grain filler is used to achieve a deep reflective finish comonly seen with gloss finishes. I prefer satin finishes but that's me. best . . . paul
Hey Paul. Great videos! I’ve built a snare drum using a very oily wood (ziricote) and someone recommended that I use a water based finish because the oil of the wood won’t agree with the oil based finishes. I saw another one of your videos where you touched on wiping on finish vs. brushing on the finish. Since I’m working on a round drum it sounds like I should wipe on the finish. I was also told I should do a 2 part finish and once I finish sanding I should clear the dust and immediately apply a sealer to seal in the oils of the ziricote. If I use a water based finish how can I ensure that the finish won’t crack? Also, this drum will mostly be played indoors, but it will be handled a lot, and it might be taken out to an outdoor gig occasionally.
Hey Joe. I would ask people more familiar with ziricote. It's apparently a popular wood used in the music industry for it's sound transmission capabilities. I have never worked with it. Sorry, best . , , paul
Also, what brand natural bristle brush did you purchase for your collection? My most expensive natural finish brush was 38-40 bucks. Just curious! I love good tools!!
Hi Frances. Good brushes are almost impossible to find in the hardware or paint isles. We have become a throw-away society. People spend big bucks on designer wear and high end autos but buy the cheapest tool that might accomplish a task they understand little about. Retailers won't tie up shelf space for quality tools that can sit for years. I bought my last brush from an art supply store. They sell varnish brushes that artists use. They have them in 3 inches. Check out St Louis Art Supply under varnish brushes. best . . . paul
More gold 👍🏻 thank you
Thanx PR
@@paulsDIYsolutions do you recommend or have you ever used GF finishes gel top coat polyurethane or their enduro grade spray waterbased compared to traditional oil ? I only have experience with regular poly thinned using the same method you use. We really like all other GF stain and milk paint. Thanks
Sorry, no.
@@prsjds1290
@@paulsDIYsolutions can you recommend a polyurethane. Most all retailers around sell fast drying
No probably won't find older slow dry stuff anymore. Manufacturers are being forced to change formulas to comply with EPA regulations. They consider thinnerts and carriers volitile so things dry faster. I tend to buy whatever is on sale. I haven't really noticed a big difference in brands. @@prsjds1290
Hi Paul, really enjoy your videos. For oil-based polyurethane, where do you buy the high-quality brush you show in the application video and who makes it?
Hey Russ. Good brushes are almost impossible to find in the hardware or paint isles. We have become a throw-away society. People spend big bucks on designer wear and high end autos but buy the cheapest tool that might accomplish a task they understand little about. Retailers won't tie up shelf space for quality tools that can sit for years. I bought my last brush from an art supply store. They sell varnish brushes that artists use. They have them in 3 inches. Check out St Loius Art Supply under varnish brushes. best . . . paul
Thanks for the suggestion. I also saw they have high-quality lint-free cotton cloth. I've had mixed results using "T-shirt" cloth for some wipe on application.@@paulsDIYsolutions
Paul, can I apply oil poly over a thinly applied oil paint on a plywood surface (grain sealed with a wood conditioner before applying paint)? Or, can I tint poly with a liquid universal colorant?
Hey Citizen. Yes to both. best . . . paul
Thanks for creating these helpful videos. They are particularly handy for a newbie like me🙂. We are working on our kitchen table top (have stripped it, sanded and stained). We've returned it to original dark chocolate stain colour and are ready to apply our final finish. Our intention is to apply an oil based polyurethane finish. The table top is approximately 60" in diameter (stripping showed that it is composed of several triangular veneer sections of some type to create the circular shape). My question is how to properly apply the polyurethane finish to a circular table top? Where should I start? Any suggestions would be appreciated.🙂
Hey Ed. The only reason to follow the grain is to hide brush marks (or minimize their presence). If you follow the steps on my orginal video "Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique" you won't have to worry about brush marks. Since thickness (protection) is build up by applying multiple ultra thin layers brush marks are virtually nonexistent. My only recommendation counter to the video is apply all coats (including the last one) thinned at 3:1. Sp in essence you'll be running across the triangles.
czcams.com/video/X_GWXcydu5k/video.html
best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank you Paul. I've watched your "Bubble-Free" video a few times already, but, I will watch it a few more times before I start brushing on our table top. Since I'm dealing with a circular table, do you recommend I start applying the polyurethane from one of the shorter "ends" of the table using your brushing technique? Or, should I start at the centre of the table (thus the longest section)? The videos I've watched on CZcams tend to deal with square or rectangular pieces, so, it is hard to grasp how I should finish such a relative large and "odd shaped" piece like mine. Any further "hints" would be appreciated. Thank you.
I have been painting and refinishing furniture for friends and family for years. I have a friends small cedar chest. I have sanded it down to the wood. Found that the lid has on piece of wood that doesn't look like cedar. What can I do to make it match. I want to oil finish it if possible. Please can you help me?
I have been watching you on CZcams and you are very knowledgeable. Will appreciate any suggestions. Thank you
Sorry Blanche without seeing the woods and the condition it's virtually impossible to advise you. If you can tell the difference now applying a clear coat will make it stand out more. best . . . paul
I’m putting in butcher block countertops. The last time I did them, they had too much sheen for my taste. I just watched your video on the tung oil/ spar varnish mixture.
What would you suggest for a long lasting finish that has less sheen?
That's a tough one mbuzb. Tung Oil is technically the only "food safe" waterproof, durable finish. Plus it's easy to repair should it need it. It becomes high gloss getting a little shinnier with each coat. I don't find 4-5 coats too shinny but others might. Other finishes add silica to dull the natural sheen of virtually all clear wood finishes.
@@paulsDIYsolutions I’ve been reading allot about Arm-r-seal sealer. What is your experience with that?
How can you do 9 boards (all sides)? It's a small bench / picnic table without taking forever to do . The boards are 50 inches in length. What procedure could I follow so don't have to take forever in applying the poly.
Hey Earnest. I'm laughing, not at you, but this is a typical response. I built my kitchen cabinets it only took me three years!! The average person lives 657,000 hours. I can see where 6 hours over 3 days can put a serious dent in your time on earth!! LOL. Anyway sorry for the sarcastic lecture. Flip the table on it's back and do the underside and legs. Flip it over again and do the top side. Repeat for two more days and ur done!!! Make sure you are using an exterior rated polyurethane. best . . . paul
Hey Paul! Whats your opinion on the Minwax polyshades product? Thank you for your videos. I’m new to woodworking and finishing so I’ve gained a lot from watching several of them!
Hey 61S. I've never used it but I have friends who swear it's perhaps the worst product out there. Concept was good "Let's make a stain and finish combo. One step finishing". Heard it looks awful. best . . . paul
I tried it on an assembled bookshelf and wasn’t happy at all. It was the wrong product for that project. It pooled in the corners and is so obvious because of the stain. Perhaps there’s a better application for it, but I probably won’t use it again.
Thanks for your input!
Hi Paul- Thank you so much for these incredible videos you are now my woodworking guru🙏 So my husband built us a gorgeous red oak dining room table that I decided to finish with very basic finishing skills in a shocking turn of events I messed it up! My last step was to remove the two coats of water based poly, stain and condition with a random orbital but I’m now wondering if that is ok or do I need ti go through the process of chemically removing the poly? The stain had been on for about 4 days and the poly had only been on for 2 days. I of course am going to work from 80 to 120 to 180 before reapplying wood conditioner and following every single video you have step by step I just need to make sure I get this table back in as good a natural state as I can do to the job correctly this time. Thank you a million times for your invaluable videos!
Hey Melissa. If you are planning on sanding you should wait 2-3 weeks. That's how long it takes polyurethane to dry all the way through. If you don;'t your sandpaper will just keep guming up with the unhardened polyurethane. You can use a stripper immediately and be a little more certain that you are getting all the poly off. Any remaining polyurethane will interfere with absorption of new stain. Speaking of stain I would not use a conditioner on oak (it doesn't need it and will reduce the coloration of the stain). Once stripped or sanded wash it down, let the wood dry thoroughly, sand with a 180 and then you can reapply your stain. Let the stain dry at least overnight then apply your polyurethane I recommend oil based. Lastly be sure to finish the underside as well to assure equal seasonal expansion and contraction (avoids chipping and cracking). In fact always finish the bottom first as it shows me how the wood is reacting to stains and finishes. I'm here if you have other concerns. best . . . paul
Paul…I am speechless thank you so much! I have been almost in tears trying to figure out how in the world I am going to fix this table, I have small kids and very limited time and can’t just build another table. I REALLY want to avoid the chemical stripper if possible because I am working on this thing in my garage (only space I have) which is attached to my kitchen…I have already done a decent amount of sanding with 80 to remove the poly and stain can I just wait 2 weeks and keep going at it with the orbital with 80 grit? Also I have already applied 2 coats of water poly to the sides, legs and underside and since I don’t care about the brush strokes in those areas I’m hoping to not have to strip the whole table but do plan on (after watching your poly finish videos) to use oil poly on the top will it be ok to have two different types of poly on the table (I know the color will not match perfectly but that’s ok…since this is Oak I have varying colors through the natural wood anyways). Thank you so so so much!
Hey Mlissa. Oil over water is okay as long as the water based poly is dry. Just do a light sand with 220 snadpaper and go for it. Be sure that in your prep sanding you do something like 80 grit, follwed by 120 followed by a 150 and then stopping at 180. You can then danmpen the wood and resand lightly with a 180 grit. Once dry you can reapply your stain. Once the stain is applied skip the sanding and apply your fisrt coat. Let dry overnight and sand very lightly with a 220 grit bwteen future coats. best . . . paul
@@MelissaZimmermann-sr7nh
Thank you again a million times! Should I wait the 2 full weeks for the poly to cure before trying to remove the what’s left of it on the tabletop with sanding? Ok to use 220 between poly coats even though I have stain below it? I believe in your video you mentioned only using a brown paper bag. You are truly a life saver
Good Morning Meliisa. AS long as you have the bulk of the polyurethane already off I would continue sanding to get to raw wood. Do not sand after staining and before you first coat. Snading between coats does a couple things: it removes any dust nibs that settle while drying overnight and it scratches the surface a litlle so the next coat of polyurethane have something to grab onto. After the first coat you should do a VERY, VERY LIGHT sanding with a 220. Then between each coat continue with 220. Sometimes the first coat (this only happens with the first coat) of polyurethane it may appear as though there are bare spots but it'sthere it just soaked in. Try to avoid sanding these areas as we don't want to remove any stain. Hope this makes sense.@@MelissaZimmermann-sr7nh
Hi Paul,
Can I use a mixture of stain and varnished product in a same time?
Hey Faramarz. No I wouldn't, however there are combo products on the market already. I don't recommend them. While I've not used them personally I've heard bad bad things. best . . . paul
Hey Paul,
Thank you for these awesome videos. You have been a tremendous help during my woodworking journey. I am building a pine table. The surface finish is polyurethane and the few knots I have are bleeding through the poly. How do I prevent this in the future and is there anyway to fix this? I already have three coats on.
Thank you,
Ernie
Het Ernie. Not sure what you are asking. What do you mean bledding through? Is the poly soaking into the knot? Please clarify a little. thanx paul
Hey Paul. Wherever there is a knot the poly never dries. It stays tacky. So I assumed that sap was bleeding out of the knot causing the poly to not dry. The last coat I put on was 3 days ago in a heated shop and the knots are tacky but everything else is dry. Again thank you for all that you do.
Silly question but is the wood your using kiln dried or construction lumber?@@ernielilienthal8839
Supposed to be kiln dried.
Kbnots can bleed but if the wood is dried it should not. Polyurethane is a surface coating and while some does soak into pores and between wood fibers the vast majority lays on top. Knots have no pores sothe finish just lays on top but it should dry anyway. Try using a blow drier to see if you can speed it up. Start at a very low volume so as not to create waves. As I'm writing I am looking at my live edge desk that's loaded with knots and are just fine under the polyurethane. Let me know please. best . . . paul@@ernielilienthal8839
If I want to protect an open grain wood but want to feel the grain come through (on mahogany for example), can I simply avoid using grain filler before applying the poly? Thanks!
Hey Ron. Yes. I only use grain filler on badly weathered wood or if I'm after a deep, highly reflective sheen. Be sure to thin the polyurethane on all coats. Watch my video "How To Apply Polyurethane Without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks | Updated" (link below). Now if you want a really nice finish for appearance and feel oil is the way to go. "how to apply tung oil tips and technique - refinishing furniture". And finally the best of both worlds and my absolute fav finish that's easy to apply and drop dead gorgeous "THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture".
Poly: czcams.com/video/nxwMmjg4kIY/video.html
Tung Oil: czcams.com/video/ePn409TDS0o/video.html
Paul's Combo Finish: czcams.com/video/vxRhqqAzuLo/video.html
Be sure to visit my website to download summary sheets. They are really handy to have on hand while working.
best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Wow, thank you for such a detailed response! I will indeed watch those videos and subscribe. Thanks!
Around minute 12 you talk about filling grain, what do you fill it with? And close the pores with?
I like Aqua Coat. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks for the quick reply, if putting it on a water based stain, would you apply a lacquer before the aqua coat? And then polycrylic can go right on top? And do you thin polycrylic the same as oil based poly in your videos? It's going on grey stain which is why I'm going water based poly.
Sorry for all the questions but I find your videos to be excellent.
@@TheCainoftier You don't need to seal the wood before using Aqua Coat. So I use the filler and then apply my urethane. Typically it'll need to be filled again and again. Until you feel it's sufficient. Fillers are used to create a high gloss finish as a smooth surface reflects light.
@@paulsDIYsolutions okay and how about polyacrylic, should I thin that the same as polyurethane 3:1
@@TheCainoftier Polycrylic is polyurethane. It's Minwax's marketing ploy. It's water based polyurethane so thin it 3:1 using water (not mineral spirits) as the thinning agent.
Paul:
Please I need your advise. I have a Chess board that I want to recover. The chess design is made with wood veneers.I already have sanded it. My doubt is with what material could I finish it? Thanks🌿
Hey Gloria. I would use an oil based polyurethane. Thinned 3:1and brushed on. Three coats would assure durability and protection. For details check out Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique.
czcams.com/video/X_GWXcydu5k/video.html
best . . . paul
Thanks!!! I will send you a picture if my small project.♟️
Of my small project.
Will oil based polyurethane be suitable for wood accent wall in a humid area like a bathroom?
Hey Brian. Here's the thing (well here's a couple things): Polyurethane, shellac, lacquer and varnish are srface coatings. That means they just sit on top of the wood and hopefully seal it. The problem is they seldom completely seal it and mositure gets underneath it. Now that leads to a host of issues namely peelings and cracking. OIls on the other hand are penetrating finishes which means they are absorbed into the wood and become a "part" of the wood. The problem with most oils is they never harden off completely. Pour motor oil in a pan and it will stay there forever as a liquid. This is bad because if you run your hand over an oiled surface your jand will get oily. There are two exceptions tung oil and linseed oil are classed as hardening oils. Meaning they penetrate the wood and then dry (slowly). Woodworkers, wooden boaters, homeowners with outside furniture and decks love oil finishes. Linseed oil is water resistant (not waterproof). Tung oil is waterproof! Now back to your question. I would recommend polymerized tung oil or my combo finish which is a lot of oil and a little marine (spar) varnish mixture. I have videos (links below) and printable PDF guides on my website for both. best . . . paul
"THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture" - czcams.com/video/vxRhqqAzuLo/video.html
"How to apply tung oil tips and technique - refinishing furniture" - czcams.com/video/ePn409TDS0o/video.html
Website - paulsdiy.solutions/
Thank you!@@paulsDIYsolutions
Did you ever find a suitable replacement for the chemical stripper you used to use?
Hey Jasmine. Yeah they are getting better. I've been using Jasco. For the projects I've had it's actually been good. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions then that is the one I will buy, thank you! Love your content 🖤
@@MURPHxiii Thanx Jasmine. What are you stripping?
@@paulsDIYsolutions an antique dining table. I have slowly sanded it over the past 6 months. There are places that have a lot of detail carving. I initially planned on stripping it and I bought citristrip. It was a time consuming, ineffective mess. That’s when I just accepted I would need to sand the finish. Recently I stumbled upon your stripping video from a few years back and I got SO excited and I thought, this will help me finish this thing up, just to hop online and find out I’ve missed the boat on effective strippers 🤦🏻♀️ so here I am. Whatever finish was on this thing has been nothing short of a nightmare, which is probably why I seem to begrudgingly chip away at this project.
@@MURPHxiii Paint is tough to get off in detailed areas even with the old strippers. That chest you saw in the video took hours with a dental tool, stiff nylon brush and an air compresser. I used that Jasco stripper on a varnished table recently and it worked well. I have not used it with paint. Here's the thing though I'm sure your table is worth the effort. Today's furniture is not real wood. Even the veneers used over glued wood and plastic particles (think Ikea) is photo replicas! When you do get all the old paint off message me and I'll talk to you about oiling the wood and finishes.
Did you at one time recommend to thin poly 1 part poly to 2 parts MS do that for 2 costs and then the 3rd and so on costs are 2 parts poly to one part MS? I see you say 3 parts poly to 2 MS. Why did you change?
Hi Patricia. I never recommended anything but 3 parts poly to 1 part mineral spirits for brushing on. I do have a video for making a wipe on but that's one part poly to one part mineral spirits. Sorry. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks for your reply. I am wiping it on.
By the way the boards are 2x4.
I align m?