When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane - Refinishing Furniture
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- Wipe on polyurethane. Let me teach you when and how to wipe on polyurethane. This is a complete start to finish guide to achieving the perfect polyurethane finish for your project. Brushing falt surfaces is easy but what about round surfaces like spindles on a railing or legs on a table or chair? This is when wipe on polyurethanes come in handy but BE CAREFUL. Not only is a can of wipe on polyurethane 3 times the cost of regular polyurethane it contains thinners so the concentration of actual polyurethane in the wipe polyurethane could be cut in half. This brings the cost difference somewhere close to 6 times the cost of regular polyurethane!!
Cost aside if you brush half of your project and switch to a store bought wipe on polyurethane they probably won't match! Let's make a batch ourselves and rest assured they will match while simultanteously saving money. That alone is worth a cup of coffee (see below).
Please leave comments. I really do love to hear from y'all.
You can for free view, choose, download and print any or all of my 1-2 Page Summary Sheets from my website HERE:
paulsdiy.solutions/sample-pag...
___________________________________________
If you'd like to support my knowledge sharing and production time you can do that HERE:
Buy Me A Coffee - www.buymeacoffee.com/ialignmS
__________________________________________
0:00 Intro - When to WIPE ON Polyurethane vs BRUSHING ON polyurethane
1:40 Materials You'll Need to Wipe On Polyurethane
3:40 Sanding Before Applying the First Coat of olyurethane
3:50 The Right Grade of Sandpapers
6:13 Ways to Properly Remove Surface Dust before wiping on polyurethane
8:05 Thinning is essential to create a Wipe On Polyurethane
9:50 Thinning Water Based vs Oil Based polyurethane for Wiping On
12:24 How to WIPE ON polyurethane
13:47 How to Avoid Polyurethane Bubbling
16:55 Dry time for Wipe On Polyurethane
18:58 How to dfeal with Grain Raise after First Coat of polyurethane
20:41 Why overnight dry is important in polyurethane applications
21:31 Dust removal alternatives
22:01 Second Coat of Wipe On polyurethane
24:23 The Finished Product (BAD PUN)
VIDEOS:
Project Preparation:
How to remove paint from wood | Beginner Guide | Part 1 - • How to remove paint fr...
How to remove paint from wood | Beginners Guide | Part 2 - • How to remove paint fr...
Chemical Strippers vs Heat Gun - • Chemical Strippers vs ...
Sanding Efficiently - • Sanding Wood Beginners...
Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper - • Choosing the Right San...
Finishing:
How to stain wood | Beginners Guide | Furniture Refinishing - • How to stain wood | Be...
Blotch-Free Wood Stain Technique - Refinishing Furniture - • Blotch-Free Wood Stain...
Clear Wood Finish Choices - • Clear Wood Finish Choi...
Paul's Combo Finish - • THE Best Clear Wood Co...
About Polyurethane Wood Finish - Refinishing Furniture - • About Polyurethane Woo...
Apply Polyurethane without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks - • How To Apply Polyureth...
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane - • When and How to Wipe O...
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Varnish - • How To Apply Spar Uret...
How to Apply Tung Oil - • how to apply tung oil ...
Clean Up:
Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks - • Fixing Polyurethane Bu...
Proper Brush Cleaning - • Proper Paint Brush Cle...
WEBSITE: paulsdiy.solutions/
ARTICLES:
Project Preparation:
Step by Step Guide to Refinishing Furniture
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Sanding Efficiently
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Finishing:
Choosing the Right Clear Wood Finish
paulsdiy.solutions/refinishin...
How To Apply Tung Oil Properly
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Blotch-Free Wood Stain Application Technique paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane
paulsdiy.solutions/refinishin...
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Varnish paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori...
How to Apply Boiled Linseed Oil - Tips and Technique
paulsdiy.solutions/uncategori... - Krátké a kreslené filmy
I’m refinishing a 103-year-old beautiful table. Your videos are wonderful. Thank you so much!
I have learned more about woodworking from you in the last 8 hours than I have learned from any other channel in the last 2 years. Thank you for sharing your wisdom.
Thanx Daniel. Glad to be a part of your journey. best . . . paul
Always a learning experience watching your vids, thanks for posting Paul........
Hey Tony. Glad to share what little I may know. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul
Thanks for this great and informative video! I am getting ready to poly my first project since middle school shop class and I am excited. The info on the steel wool was especially helpful.
Hey Sandi. Cool. Have fun with it, it's not that complicated. best . . . paul
Thank you Paul for all your advice and years of knowledge. It feels like such a blessing to have access to such golden advice and techniques. I came from watching your other how to apply polyurethane video. And this has helped me so much. Going from a tacky and thick finish with lots of imperfections , to a smooth and natural looking finish with no dust or puddling. Thank you so much Paul. You've made this information so easy to access and understand. Bless you for making such educational videos.
Thanx Ruby. Glad to be of some help. Thank you for watching and commenting. best . . . paul
Building a new desk and was wondering about finishing. Heard about wipe-on poly but never knew anything about it. I now know how i'm going to do the finish. Thanks for the info. Liked and subscribed.
Hey Kenneth. It's a great way to almost foolproof finish. Let me know how it turns out. best . . . paul
I feel so grateful for finding your channel. I’m hooked to it, I’m watching all your videos for days now 😂 I learned so much from you and I really really appreciate that. Thank you so much, God bless you.
You're welcome Mus. I was mentored by an older woodworker with great patience. Turns out I'm now the older guy!! Happy to be a part of your woodworking journey. best . . . paulY
Great video (I'm currently doing some 1927 Queensland Maple on a ship's cabin restoration). Liked the pad technique - We call these pads a "mouse". Also in Au, WHS prevents us from storing paints, etc. in 2nd hand food containers - I use jam jars or similar with labels removed. I also tip the jar upside down for a second to help seal the lid. This reduces the skin formation that you get when you can't get back to the shop for a few days. I also use 800 grit wet and dry to take off the dust. I also am in a multi-user workshop - I stay back a bit and also turn off the wood saws and sander at the wall just in case someone wants to dust up the shop late in the day. I also drill a hole in the brush handle and store my best varnish brush with a nail across the turps can - I am doing an entire compartment on a ship and need the brush to be ready quickly as my time is limited and precious. I also arrive early on the next workday to stack away my many large panels and doors - Can't trust my workmates to look after my just varnished work.
I also invert the can for an hour or so before use. My neighbour was an enamel expert - He would always warm the paint/varnish to help reduce brush marks and improve the cover.
Hey User. Sounds like an awesome project! I like the sealing the jar by inverting. I am gonna set some up today and leave it for awhile. Makes sense. I use a brown paper bag for the final sand. It's coarse enough to remove dust nibs and fine enough so as not to alter the sheen. Thanx for watching and tips. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions PS - A workmate, (retired wood teacher) asked if I was spraying the varnish, but I was able to tell him I was brushing. I generously apply thinned varnish and quickly tip into the wet edge. Try to get the varnish on quickly and never rework the finish. If I have a problem, I wait for work to dry and do another coat. My panels are quite large up to compartment wall size. As these have fielded panels, I also use a small brush to get into the corners and the routed edge details. Add in a maple table and some maple front dressers and a sink unit.
great videos, thanks for all of them. im finishing a reclaimed eucalyptus tongue and groove flooring butcher block counter and your videos have been most helpful (no I'm not going to cut on the poly). Thank you for your thoroughness!
Hey LMB. You're welcome. Sounds like a nice project I have not had the opportunity to work with eucalyptus. Love the smell though. Always reminds me of vacationing in northern California. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul
Such a great tutorial !!! So pleased...keep up the great work..thankyou for sharing your valuable wisdom of so many years of experience..kind regards from New Zealand.💎
Hey Leah. Want to visit New Zealand soooo bad!! Thanx for your feedback. Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul
I know so many people who like the thick poly look, but I'm happy to know now how to thin as I can do so much more with it, thank you! (I prefer the thinned out versions myself). Also, thank you for the demonstration, I'm always nervous to try something new without seeing it done by someone with experience. I've been looking for a channel like this 👍
Hey Kristy. Happy to be of some help. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul
Nice video on your techniques and explanations. Thanks for all the great tips!
Glad to be of some help Tina. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul
Please make more videos about furniture, fixing and sanding details. These videos are soooo good, thanks.
Thanx Mercedeh. Coming this winter!! best . . . paul
I wish I had seen this video before. I am also struggling with water based poly. It looks good when I first put it on, then it streaks. I sand it but haven’t added water. I might get the oil based and try that. Brilliant video, I have learnt lots. Thank you
Hey Irene. What do you mean by streaks? Are you referring to brush marks? Or are you seeing a cloudiness underneath? Oil is definitely a better choice in avoiding brush marks because it dries slower and the brush high spots tend to settle out before drying. Water based polyurethane dries very quickly and tends to leave brush marks if not applied properly. If you are seeing cloudiness you may want to wait a couple days. Cloudiness comes from trapped moisture which often evaporates. best . . . paul
Man that was a good video as I learned so much!
Thanx James. Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul
This video helped me a lot.
Thank you very much.
You're welcome Matt. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul
I made some today and was amazed at how fast it dried for the second coat
Hey Bob. Yeah it does when thinned that much. best . . . paul
Hello Paul 👋 Wonderful video. It takes me back to my dad in his shop.
I was looking for any mention by pros like you of an issue I ran into while refinishing a dining table top for my daughter. It had a few water and heat marks and she wanted it a different stain color to make it her own. Anyway I think she went overboard sanding near the edge after I stained it bc after applying some shellac to seal it before applying a bit of toner, to darken the edge where it is exposed grain that doesn’t absorb the stain evenly, I see the edge has sort of billowed up on the edge in a few spots so I gently sanded it down but it popped back up worse after I reapplied stain there to re-darken.
I’m not sure if she pierced the veneer and/or what to do about it.
I know if I poly it, it’ll wear off on the raised area and look awful. My dad taught me well but I’ve never seen this. He passed a few years ago and I’m not sure how to proceed. I don’t know if I I need to use a razor to remove the excess and then use wood fill/putty or wood epoxy to seal in the edge so it doesn’t pop back up or what. We both worked hard on it and I’m just at a loss how to proceed! Any advice is greatly appreciated -Thanks, 😊 Lisa
Ps. Dad had used a specific product I can’t get here but was like the Mohawk Rockhard table polyurethane (which I also can’t get here) so I got General Finishes Arm-R seal oil based poly. I use Varathane or Minwax oil based polys on regular furniture but really am uneasy about not using a specific table top product on this table (since she’s the one who caused those water & heat stains to begin with 😂). If you have any suggestions please feel free to share them.
Looks like you were filming during an earthquake at the beginning :) Matters not, the info and demo is excellent - thanks Paul.
Hey Benny. Yeah I know. In my next life I'll be technologically savvy!! Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul
Great info especially for a newly like me
Hey Richard. You're welcome. We were all newbees at some point. best . . . paul
Really loving your videos! Thanks for sharing your expertise! Tackling a 1950s oak frame sofa and want to do it right :)
Hey Juliet. Wipe on would be a perfect choice for your sofa. You don't need a lot of thickness in this application. Have fun. I'm here if you run into obstacles. best . . . paul
paulsDIYsolutions I am actually using the sofa outside on a covered porch, so I wanted a decent thickness for weather protection (I’m using spar urethane). The sofa is made of somewhat rough-hewn, mostly flat pieces of wood, it doesn’t have a lot of curved surfaces (no spindles), but it does have a lot of crevices where pieces of wood are joined. Would you still recommend wipe on for this application? Could I do a little of both?
I also don’t have a garage or workshop space unfortunately... would it be disastrous to try this on my covered porch?
Hey Juliet. Okay I take back what I said previously. Especially with spar varnish. Good choice BTW for outdoor furniture. In my video "Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Polyurethane Varnish - Doors, Furniture, Cabinets, Tables" czcams.com/video/JFgloN0GCSI/video.html
I used spar varnish on an exterior door with a lot of crevices. This sounds like it would work on your sofa.
Sounds like a plan. I wish my wife would listen to what I have to say!!
Very informative, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanx Darryl. Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul
I like that super thick almost glass plastic look. I think it comes from purchasing instruments over the years. Love that big lacquer like gloss buildup.
Hey Crixus. You might look into epoxy finishes.
@@paulsDIYsolutions hmm, I use 2k epoxy all the time for spraying automotive paints. I didn't realize there was a clear paint on epoxy.
@@glytch5 It's actually more a pour on.
@@paulsDIYsolutions Can you point me into a product direction? PS: my results came out a lot better with the oil based poly after your advice. I will say one of the big issues was the brush.
@@glytch5 I use West Systems two part epoxy finish. They are numbered 105 and 205. Check all their products as there are fast and slow hardeners.
Paul, thank you so much. I learned a lot and will fix the mistakes I made on previous project. I had a hell of a time using the varathane briarwood stain. It was so thick and tacky. Those saturated stains do not act the same way other stains do. I was wondering if you can do a video on stain techniques and why some stains act differently than others? Thanks again for your thorough explanations.
Hey Shely. Yeah not a fan of gel stains. I do have a stain video: Blotch-Free Wood Stain Application Technique - Furniture Refinishing czcams.com/video/dM4i28QNrik/video.html best . . . paul
pool lol pppp mk
As always, great video.
I'm usually a little hesitant to use compressed air (and even the shop vac due to exhaust air) because it seems to force the dust into airborne particles, which can stay airborne and ultimately settle back onto a newly applied finish.
Is this something you consider while preparing your projects for finish?
And a comment on new brushes - You may recall a recent video I posted showing how much junk remained embedded in my brush after what I thought was a thorough cleaning. No doubt my efforts to clean the brush fell short at some level.
I recently bought a new ox hair brush (hard to find and spendy), and straight out of the package, dropped particles out of the bristles when tapped against my hand.
Both of these issues most assuredly would present contaminants into a finish if not first blown out or vacuumed prior to use!
Thank you for all of your great videos! I refer back to them frequently when getting ready to apply a poly finish!
Hey Gary. I get it. Unless you are in a waterfall booth or in a microchip lab there are going to be airborne particulates. The problem with not using some type of air is getting fine saw dust out of the woods pores and grain valleys. The nice part is most airborne dust nibs can be easily removed with a fine grit paper or the material from a brown paper bag (used in place of sandpaper after final coat). Not true for trapped saw dust that tends to pop up after first finish coat. I'd rather have dust lay on top of my finish (where I can deal with it) than trapped under my finish. Thanx for watching. I appreciate your support. best . . . paul
Thank you so much this is perfect timing we are redoing our porch we have a white picket fence all around so can I use this method first and then paint the spindles White to match the veranda
Hey Cathy. It'll work just make sure you get a outdoor rated polyurethane it is softer so it will expand and contract with seasonal changes and it also has UV blockers. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you so much Paul I really appreciate all the help that you've given them to me this is the third time that were redoing the rails spindles the first two times I had no knowledge what I was doing so I am so grateful for you and your teaching class I am so blessed to have found your site thank you again have a great weekend and God bless you and your family
@@cathyknapp9360 You're welcome Cathy. Third times a charm!! paul
I am a little confused about your mixture ratio.
In this video, you say to mix 1 to 1, or 50/50. In your anti bubble video you say 3 parts poly to 1 part thinner. Is that because the rag needs a more diluted poly than the brush application? Thank you for the great video's!
I always shake my poly to mix it and the bubbles work their way out and dont ruin the surface... i think i read in some other forums that not shaking the can is really just a myth and just spread by manufacturer of certain brands putting a warning on their cans... one way to think is that if you spray it, you are blowing air through it and it still comes out smooth... also thinning with spirits allows any bubbles to come out easier too and self level.
Hey Michael. I get that bubbles in a liquid mass eventually settle out and shaking the can may be a myth but why the heck would you risk it? What's the benefit? As far as spraying it is totally different physics. Sprayers atomize finishes with the liquid particles becoming almost microscopic. There is not enough liquid mass for bubbles to form. I'm gonna continue to stir and advise it to my viewers. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions okay... i think i was taking what you said the wrong way... in any event, your method for making a thinned out poly worked great. Got tired of the "plastic" look for the few projects i did around the house and having to deal with something that was like honey. Kind of new to this and doing this method made life a ton easier even if it means a few more coats. Best guide i could find for this. :)
I do have a question. I was told that steel wool will cause oxidation or something in hard woods and make it change colors. Currently working with birch and was wondering if there was any truth to that and if i should go with like a 300grit instead to get the grain back down and dust nibs since someone said birch is a hard wood.
Do you have a preference between turpentine, paint thinner or mineral spirits? The project I'm doing right now is a shelf for clothing and a matching one for office items and a matching one for books and ammo etc. on birch plywood.
Hey Nathan. Either turp or paint thinner is my choice these days. They fooled around with mineral spirits and the stuff is weak. It's more of a cleaning solution now. best . . . paul
Paul, Great videos, well presented, lots of information. I enjoy them as much as I enjoyed Norm Abram's New Yankee Workshop. BTW, I too have "made sawdust" for a half century+
Question: I’m making a 20sf hard maple kitchen counter with backsplash and sink cutout. I have an unopened quart of Waterlox (clear/no ambering) satin BRUSH-ON urethane which I’d prefer to thin and WIPE-ON. On the can it says, "No thinning necessary" (which is very different than if it said “do not thin”). It’s formulated using mineral spirits, oil-modified polyurethane, organophilic clay and synthetic amorphous silica. Generally speaking, I know urethane can be thinned. But, I’ve never used urethane on a kitchen counter. So, in your experience, is there something about the Waterlox urethane formulation that thinning and wiping it on would be inadvisable and/or make the finish less durable? Or perhaps you have a better urethane product to recommend. Thx for any guidance you might provide.
Hey Patricia. Maple comes in soft and hard varrietals. The soft version tends to blotck badly when staining. The hard varriety is extremely tight pores and very durable. It will hold up as a counter forever. I prefer brushing to wiping simply because you have better control with a "GOOD" brush. To mje most polyurethanes are good and there is very minimal difference in brands. I tend to buy whatever major brand is on sale. best . . . paul
any tips for window trim?
Paul, I have a french door (slider tyype) that I'm finishing for my customer. I've stained the doors and frame. They are both in the vertical position and I'm not able to lay them down in a horizontal position. Your poly process is excellent. How can I eliminate the poly mixture from running down when using a vertical brush stroke?
Hey Pat. Good question. It'll work the same. Because we lay it on so thin it won't matter. A good brush is the key. A good brush holds a lot of material and shouldn't drip or run from excess release. Don't oversaturate your brush and start in middle moving upward then downward to finsih the stroke. Thick, goopy lay downs run. Practice on scrap until you are comfrotable with the way it comes out. best . . . paul
Hi Paul I just found your video and found it quite informative. Excellent in fact.
I've spent time looking through comments and your other videos but may have missed it but have you done one on or have you commented on making a wipe on poly that is 1/3 polyurethane 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 mineral spirits ? If so what is your opinion and /or experience?
Thanks
Hey John. I don't like mixing polyurethane with tung oil. But here's a nice combo finish with tung oil and spar varnish. "THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture".
czcams.com/video/vxRhqqAzuLo/video.html
best . . . paul
Thank you for another great tutorial. Out of myriad woodworking channels, in-depth information on finishing is scarce, or it seems so to me. So far, my finishing is not good but the worst has been lazy susans. My edges are a train wreck. From what I think I understand from techniques you've discussed, I believe I should be wiping on thinned poly rather than brushing straight out of the can. Is it just my lack of skill or does the round shape present a different challenge from square, rectangle, etc. pieces?
Hey Skip. Polyurethane needs to be thinned. It's almost like syrup out of the can. Wiping is definmitely an option but you should also try doing edge work with what I call a DRY BRUSH. While not actually dry it's a brush where most of the finish is gone and the bristles are moist, not staurated. Ultra thin multiple coats create thickness. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank you, Paul. I saw where you discussed "dry brush" in the first video I watched. I will definitely try that as well as your advice on dabbing the excess during feathering. It was very good of you to respond. Many thanks.
My poly states on the can to not thin. I REALLY wanted to thin it to wipe it on. Do you think it will still work? For reference, the poly is called "Poly self-leveling superior scratch resistance, fast drying, matte finish" by Zar and its an oil based poly.
Hey kayla. Manufacturers started producing polkyurethane with less thinner to comply with EPA laws. The do not thin part is legaleze their attorneys recommend. I thin all my products. best . . . paul
In the video you poly an un stained piece of wood can you use the same mix for a stained piece. Will the paint thinner affect the stain. I.e 1 to 1 mixture
Hey Eric. Proceed in exactly the same manner. The mineral spirits won't hurt at all. best . . . paul
Paul, do you have any advice on using spray polyurethane, specifically the final coat. I wish I had seen this video first but, that was not the case. I am thinking I should just use the #0000 steelwool prior to the final coat and wipe down with a rag dipped in mineral spirits. I would appreciate your response and advice. Thank you.
Hey Pattie. Why are you asking? What's going on? Do you have issues with the current finish? Fill me in and we'll figure something out. best . . . paul
Paul, I did some oak handrails for my father in law to put on both sides of his stairs due to safety of his balance. I used Minwax warm gloss according to your instructions and they turned out great. However, I fear they may too slippery, would it be safe to dull it down to an ultra satin (over the gloss) or would this be a no no? Thank you for your time! Garry
Hey Garry. Stair polyurethane (or any varnish) is a real concern for elderly. Gloss or satin are both slippery. Both my wife and I keep sandals next to the stairs. There are other options but we don't care for the look. best . . . paul
Michael. Paul, thank your comments about brushes. On Amazon, I bought a Purdy Ox Hair
Brush, 2.5", labeled Extra Soft, ox-hair/white bristle. I will try to follow your care instructions to the letter!
I'm a little concerned now because I am using a Polyurethane "solvent-based" satin finish, clear. When purchasing I thought I was buying an Oil-based Polyurethane. I have only done the legs of the table and they look pretty good. But before I begin on the table surface, could you comment that I am using the right Polyurethane?
Hey Michael. Solvent based polyurethane means it is oil based. Read the cleaning instructions if it says to clean with soap and water it's water based. If it says clean with mineral spirits it's oil based. Oil based polyurethane is my preferred finish and the most forgiving of the urethane finishes. best . . . paul
Paul, so much useful info. Have you ever commented on problems with putting poly on red mahogany? Despite sanding down to bare wood and applying a sanding sealer after stain, I often have problems with spots in the wood that won’t accept the poly. I noticed some poly spray cans actually say not recommended for use on red mahogany so I suspect the problem is common. Any helpful hints? Thanks.
Hey Peter. Don't know aht you are using for a sealer but a 2lb cut of shellac usually does the trick. best . . . paul
Michael. I just ordered a Purty Ox hair brush. Reading the reviews, a lot of people complained about the brush shedding its bristles as the brush moved over the surface. Anything to do to prevent that from happening?
Hey Michael. Most of the time brushes shed because of improper use or cleaning. Way too many users mix natural and synthetic bristles brushes for the wrong finish. Oil based finishes require natural bristles (china bristle, ox hair, etc) whereas water based products clog and saturate natural bristles. They require synthetic bristles. Cheaper brushes aren't glued properly. Also improper or delayed cleaning will ruin a good brush quickly. Brushes tend to harden close to the ferule if they are not cleaned immediately after use or periodically during prolonged use. A good brush holds a lot of material, dispenses it evenly and when used properly won't drip, puddle or run. When a bristle hardens it becomes ineffective in accomplishing the above. It also damages the bristles making them susceptible to cracking. Lastly after cleaning the brush should be either hung to dry or laid flat on the handle with the bristles suspended over the edge. When dry a brush should be stored in it's original box or wrapped in newspaper and places in a airtight baggie. Then stored flat in a drawer. That said, I am not personally familiar with the brush you are talking about but in general it is a good brand from a reliable manufacturer. best . . . paul
Paul, I was also considering using the wiping poly method but concerned that the wiping process will smear or wipe the stain off the surface. What say you? Thanks!
Hey pat. I like the feel and control that a brush offers, much more than a rag. best . . . paul
Happy Fourth of July Paul. If my original factory furniture finish is starting to get tacky and deteriorate but the stain is still in good shape, can I just steal wool with 0000 and apply a couple coats of wipe on?
Hey Steve. Happy 4th to you as well. Yes. Personally I would wash it down with a strong soap solution first (like trisodium phosphate) to get any grime, wax and oil off. Then you can steel wool it, wipe it down well with minreal spirits or lacquer thinner and then start the application process.
I really like the final sheen you created. Did you start with a satin, semi-gloss or gloss poly?
Hey Printzone. Pretty sure that was a satin polyurethane. I go through so much of it, its hard to keep track. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank you. I'm new at staining/finishing and really enjoy watching your videos!
I had the same question. Thanks for asking it.
I have a flat piece I'm looking to use poly urethane on was hoping to use a rag but if I use a foam brush etc that would take out a lot of these steps? Or what would be different? Pardon my newness to it all.
Hey Nate. Br careful. If you're seeking a nice finish you really should not use a rag or a roller or a foam brush. I suggest you invest the time and watch one of my videos:
"Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique"
czcams.com/video/X_GWXcydu5k/video.html&ab_channel=paulsDIYsolutions
or "Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Polyurethane Varnish - Doors, Furniture, Cabinets, Tables"
czcams.com/video/JFgloN0GCSI/video.html&ab_channel=paulsDIYsolutions
otherwise you'll end up watching "Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush marks"
czcams.com/video/8P0JjpV-9O4/video.html&ab_channel=paulsDIYsolutions
best . . . paul
Paul,
Will using 0000 steel wool have any chance of sanding through the poly and into the stain?
Hey Dan. It would take some serious effort but yes you could wool through thin layers. Light snading or steel wooling is recommended. best . . . paul
Michael. I am putting polyurethane on a table the has appears to have a stain. The stain color is attractive and I would like to polyurethane over it. I started working on the legs, but using the 120 and 180 sandpaper takes the stain off. Would using steel wool, maybe first a 000 followed up with 0000 work to adhere the polyurethane? Especially on the top surface to maintain the color? Thanks
Hey Michael. For polyurethane to properly adhere (and last) it needs to grip onto something. I recommend laying polyurethane over a surface sanded between 180 to 220 (I like 180 for raw wood and 220 for subsequent polyurethane coats). Steel wool #0000 is comparable to around 400 grit sandpaper. If you are going to wool your project I wouldn't go beyond #00 wool. best . . . paul
In my country (Cyprus) I cannot find minwax fast drying polyurethane... I can find two part clear polyurethane though... What do I do in that case to make wipe poly? Is it possible to use poly without hardener and mix with mineral spirit as the video?
Hi Andrea. No. What you are looking at is NOT a finish. It is a glue. DO NOT USE THIS ON YOUR PROJECT!! Minwax is a brand name. Do you have other brands of clear polyurethane wood finish in Cyprus? Any brand will do but it should say clear wood finish. ZPlease let me know and I will try to help you with the next step. best . . . paul
Thanks for this video! Is this a good method for a newly stained coffee table top as well? I am working on one now, and would like to avoid two things: 1, that overly glossy, plastic-like shine that you mentioned in the video, and 2, a color alteration. I chose a dark espresso stain, and don't want any red or amber color when I apply the finish. I liked the end result in this video - almost like the wood was just wet instead of shiny. Could I maybe use the thinning method for the polyurethane plus a brush instead of wiping? Or could I wipe a coffee table top as well? Would love to get your opinion. Thanks so much
Hey Garrett. Personally I would brush it on. I think a brush offers better control, is neater and is faster in the long run. That is if you acquire a good brush. The sheen is controlled by the type polyurethane you buy. It comes in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. If you decide to brush check out one of my two videos: "Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Polyurethane Varnish - Doors, Furniture, Cabinets, Tables" czcams.com/video/JFgloN0GCSI/video.html or "Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique" czcams.com/video/X_GWXcydu5k/video.html
For a good brush I recommend going online (most big box stores carry low to average quality brushes). I use Tools for Working Wood, Gordon Brush or The Paint Brush Corp. I suggest you go with an oil based polyurethane. It's a lot more user friendly. Good luck it's not hard it just takes some fundamental knowledge that isn't on the paint cans. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Just wanted to come back and let you know that I followed all your resources and advice, and my project came out incredible! Really appreciate your videos and willingness to help out! I learned a ton and had a great time on my first project.
Hey Garrett. Thanx for the follow up (seldom hear back from viewers). It was my pleasure I had a great mentor when I started woodworking. Although I could never fill his shoes feel it's right to give something back. Glad it worked. Now the expensive part starts. It's called "tool acquisition". Have fun. best . . . paul
Michael. Paul, in your vidoes you mentioned do not use a Fast Drying Polyurethane. I went to, Ace Haredware, Home Depot and Walmart and all of their oil-based polyurethane were labeled Fast Drying Time. Am I going to have trouble applying a fast drying polyurethane?
Hey Michael. These days consumers want fast and easy and manufacturers play into this. I don't really pay mush attention to the hype on the cans. I think they probably all are labeled fast drying, easy cleanup and odorless. Just pick the least expensive name brand oil based polyurethane and you'll be fine. best . . . paul
Hi paul i'm really enjoying your videos . I Have a piece of live egde walnut that I would like to vanish and hang on wall as a decorative piece....there are two dark lines (stains)in the wood grain where I believe the supplier of the wood must of had supports for stacking....they are about an inch and a half in width.....is there any way to get these stains out before topcoating the piece? Any advice would be appreciated-Ti.
Hey Tim. No simple solution sorry. They should sand out but without seeing it it's hard to say. best . . . paul
Thanks
Would this apply to flat surfaces that are vertical or even applying on the underside of a flat surface where the object can't be rotated or moved?
Hey Nathan. You could brush with a good brush. But you could wipe on as well. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, thank you for the great videos. I’m confused about the thinning ratio - in this video you have mentioned 1-1 for oil based and 3-1 for water based. In the other video (flat surfaces video) you appear to have used an oil based poly but thinned to a 3-1 mix. Is it different ratios for different application types (flat vs spindles) or perhaps wood type or is it strictly different based on oil poly vs water based poly? Thank you for the feedback in advance. Happy woodworking!
Hey Supadras. You're mixing up videos. The 1:1 ration is for wipe on only. The 3:1 is for brush on only. Oil based polyurethane and spar varnishes are thinned with mineral spirits or paint thinner. Water based polyurethane are thinned with water. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you for the clarification. Much appreciated
Very good and informative video. Thank you Paul. Just went on your website to download PDF cheat sheet - link is not working.
Thanx Le Bo. I will work on it tomorrow. best . . . paul
It's done Le Bo. You can now download the cheat sheet. Thanx for letting me know.
On a flat table top...could I use a 400 grit sandpaper between coats vs steel wool since it is flat?
Hey Adam. 400 grit is too fine for polyurethane. Polyurethane needs something to bite into. Also it will fill scratches down to 180. I recommend 180 or 220 between coats. best . . . paul
Hi Paul! So glad I found your page! I’m 2 months into a stair re-staining project and driving my poor husband mad! For stairs with walls on each side do you recommend a wipe on or brush on technique to apply polyurethane? It may be hard to apply from the middle and feather edge to edge with walls obstructing brush strokes. Please help!
Hey Chloe. Speaking as a husband, we're tough (gotta be). I would brush it on. Apply it thin starting in the middle and working toward the edges as demonstarted in the video. Instead of one feather stroke do a double starting in each corner edge. The interesting thing about staircases is NOBODY ever walks close to the corner edges so thickness there is not important. The only thing you need to do is be sure that you get a little there so the sheen is consistant. Hope that makes sense. I'm here f you have further concerns so don't hesitate. best . . . paul
P.S. Be nice to that guy, will you!!
@@paulsDIYsolutions So double feather left to right in the direction of the grain correct (not from back to front toward the nose of the stair tread)?
Also, I over-sanded the small bubble and lost some stain. Should I start completely over on that tread by sanding down the bare wood and re-conditioning?
Hey Paul, I’m refinishing our kitchen cabinets. I’m working on the cabinet doors in our garage but the cabinet frames are of course in the kitchen. Ive stained everything and am ready for the poly. Because of the stench, I want to get the cabinet frames done as quickly as possible, so using the wipe-on method is appealing because of the faster dry time and greater margin for newbie errors. But then I’ll have to put on more coats. So what would you recommend, brush or wipe the frames? And if I wipe on the frames does that mean I should also wipe on the doors so they’ll look the same? Thanks for all your great videos!
Hey Susan. My first venture into refinishing was kitchen cabinet refinish 50 years ago!! You can wipe the frames. I would do 3 coats over three days (allowing overnight dry). I would coat early AM, do a lightly sand late PM (220 grit paper) and reapply early AM. This process will allow the dust time to settle out of the air. Do not sand the last coat. If you have dust nibs or minor imperfections use the material from a brown paper bag in place of sandpaper. It's coarse enough to remove minor flaws and fine enough so as not to alter the sheen. I prefer brushing so you can brush your doors. Be sure to start on the door backsides. This will allow you practice and any damage caused from laying the door down to finish the opposite side will be on the door insides. Have fun. 50 years from now you'll probably be telling others how it's done!! best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks for the wisdom AND the encouragement!
My pleasure Susan. Let me know how it turns out, please. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions So Paul, I wanted to let you know I wiped on the poly for my cabinet frames and it was shockingly easy! And it looks great! We’ve had very cold weather over the past week so today was the first day I could start brushing poly on the backs of the doors. I purchased a Purdy ox hair brush last week. I watched your video three times, then went over the written instructions this morning before I started. First coat is on, and so far, so good. After I put on 3 coats I think I’ll definitely feel confident in doing the fronts. You know what the worst part of this whole process is? Cleaning the dang brush. If you lived next door to me, I’d bring it over for you to clean. And I would pay you to do it. But here’s my question. How do you dispose of the mineral spirits used to clean the brush? Seems like I’d heard you could let the sediments settle to the bottom and pour off the rest to reuse.....but then what do you do with the sediments...
@@susanroberts582 Hey Susan. Your brush is an important tool so it deserves the energy to keep it in tip top shape. You have to take the residue to a hazardous waste site. Sounds like you're rounding the corner here. Congrats on nailing the finish!
I was waiting for the plywood finish. I am working with veneer.
Veneer is tricky. Don't use coarse grits (under 120) or heavy equipment (belt sanders, big orbital sanders, etc) and don't oversand. In my day I've cut through a few top layers.
I apologize for all these questions I have sent you. Maybe this will be the last. I have applied a satin finish so far to the legs of the table. My family says that is OK for the legs, but they want a gloss finish to the tabletop. Is the technique the same for a gloss application?
Also, I could not see from the video how you were applying the polyurethane to the sides of the tabletop? Thanks so much!
He Michael. No problem happy to help where I can. Absolutely the same. It's best to apply a gloss sheen and you can always apply the last coat with a satin or semi-gloss if the gloss is too much. You cannot reverse that procedure though. Satin contains fine silica crystals that reflect light hence the duller finish. Please watch:
Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique
czcams.com/video/X_GWXcydu5k/video.html
or
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Polyurethane Varnish - Doors, Furniture, Cabinets, Tables
czcams.com/video/JFgloN0GCSI/video.html
They are brushing videos that go into more detail. best . . . paul
Hi I want to know if I used a waterbased stain do i us a water based poly??
Hey Gina. Nope. Paints and finishes today allow us to mix and match. They have come a long way. Obviously give the water based stain a few good days to assure dryness (water and oil still don't mix). best . . . paul
Hi, what about tips tiny puddles in very gnarled polyd wood . I used my fingernail to take bits off after first coat dried . Maybe i should not have waited but then its hard to tell what puddles are going to last (water based)
Actually , a pen seems to work
Sorry not sure I understand? best . . . paul
When mixing oil based polyurethane by Minwax and Mineral Spirits 2:1 {poly:spirits} .. will I need as many coats(3^)? I swear this single application looks like enough to me already. It has a nice shine and I really don’t want to end up with that plastic look .😆😅
I’m thinking 2 coats would be enough. Could you inform me of the worse thing that can happen if one doesn’t put “enough” coats on a gel stained cabinet please?
If gel stain color and brand makes a difference, I used General Finishes in the color “Java”. 3 Coats using brush application .🙂
Hey Bricks. Thickness offers protection. The thickness of one thinned coat is measured in microns, so I wouldn't worry about a plasticy look with 3 or 4 coats. The number of coats really depends on the use of the piece. On stairs or kitchen tables in a house with a bunch of teens I would go four coats. For average handling three coats. For minimal handling decorative two coats. best . . . paul
Paul, do you have any suggestions on how I could match the flat look of an oil based polyurethane finish that came with my table from Blu Dot? I tried to touch up a spot with Minwax satin wipe on poly but it’s coming out more glossy than the original finish. Rubbing with 400 grit and 0000 makes it even more glossy. Can I sand poly with lower grit to make it look flatter?
Hey SnowBob. You're in tricky area. Spot finishing is really tough even for many professional refinishers. I would keep doing exactly what you are doing. It takes a very light passover with lower git papers until you create enough surface scratches to dull the sheen. Wish I had an easy solution. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks for the advice Paul! I’ll try to get an assortment of sand paper grits and see where I get with it. I understand the idea from automotive paint compound and polishing but in that case you’re always going for the perfect gloss surface not the other way around!
@@SnowBob302 Right exactly. Let me know how things are going.
Is it better to let the poly dry in the shade or in open sun?
Hey Hippo. Don't think it matters much. Although unless it's exterior polyurethane I wouldn't leave it in the sun for extended periods. Indoor polyurethane will break down with prolonged UV exposure. best . . . paul
Can you make the wipe on polyurethane with the Klean Strip Paint Thinner. This paint thinner looks like watered down milk.
Hey User, I wouldn't. The newer odorless mineral spirits have a water component to it. I've switched to paint thinner. It's mineral spirits big brother. A little stronger in odor but does everything the original MS did. best . . . paul
Have you ever done a wipe on application with Waterlox Satin Urethane? I am getting bubbles on the finish regardless of how apply. I have watched a lot of your videos on bubble free application. I am using a white China bristle brush. Not sure what else to do at this point!
Hey Tom. Hmmm . . . I have not used Waterlox in a long time. Is that what you are using? If not are you suing a water or oil based polyurethane? You might try ragging on a 50:50 coat very thin to act as a wood sealer and then brush with 3:1 coats. Let me know and we can discuss more. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Yes, I am using Waterlox Satin Urethane. It says not to cut it with mineral spirits but I tried that on my last coat using the 3:1 method. The first two coats turned out fairly good. Minimal bubbles and I was able to knock those down with 320 sandpaper and maroon 3M pad. It is my 3rd and 4th coat that are giving me all the problems. I continue to get bubbles. I soaked the brush for 10 or so minutes to get the bubbles out and dragged it across some cardboard to get rid of the excess. I have followed the Waterlox Urethane (not sealer) instructions to a T but can't seem to beat the bubbling. I'm going to sand it down tonight and go pick up a new can in the morning as I ran out.
@@tomlubinski2354 Hey Tom. The label "do not dilute" warnings are more for EPA legaleze than practicality. I thin all my finishes. I went on Waterlox site to read specifications. The only thing I can surmise is that they are using soya oil as base vs linseed oil used by most polyurethane manufacturers. I'm not a chemist so I don't know the chemistry. I knoiw soy is a lot less expensive than linseed oil so maybe that's an issue. If I were in your shoes I would try a different product personally. Please let me know for future reference.
. best . . . paul
Do i do a pre-stain with water-based stain?
Hey Gloria. Yes. Be sure to get a water based conditioner. best . . . paul
Real fast, when you finish all sides of the spindle, how do you lay it to dry without setting directly onto a surface that would mess up or potentially contaminate the wet surface?
Hey John. I would put a small eye screw in the end and hang them. I do that often when I'm spraying but it will work for wipe on as well. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions How about for wooden handrails? I'm afraid the customer won't be happy with holes in the ends. Thanks for the helpful video by the way!
Big box stores sell little plastic pyramids called Painters Points. You can google them.
What I do with Ballasters, You called it a spindle. I will drill A5/8 hole piece of one by or 2 X 4 Because the Dowell on the bottom of the Ballaster. It's usually 5/8 in diamete SetThem it in the holes, In spray. Far as the handrailPut it on Saw horses, Spray it let it dry for the cloth on each end turn it over and spray the bottom.
I realize the fact that I hope this will help others by for now chin
Used 50/50 poly_paint thinner to wipe on. Why do I get streaking marks when it dries??? So frustrating! Any suggestions? Using a semi-gloss poly
Hi Debbie. Not 100% sure what you mean by streaks. Are you by chance using ODORLESS mineral spirits?
Should I try brushing it on or wait to get some mineral spirits in another state and bring back.
@@debbiestitz638 What state are you in? Was it ODORLESS mineral spirits that you used? That stuff looks milky white and leaves a cast underneath. Can you get old fashioned paint thinner or turpentine?
@@paulsDIYsolutions I am in the state of California and I know what mineral spirits is -
You cannot buy or have it shipped to California- it is outlawed! Banned! So called “environmental reasons”, Paul! So I used paint thinner (see above) and it leaves rag streaks. Seems like part of the mixture is evaporating too fast as I am wiping it on. I am using 50% Poly/50% paint thinner (not mineral spirits) Suggestions? Really appreciate your help on this.
@@debbiestitz638 Hey Deb. Paint thinner should be fine. Can you send me a few pics from different angles, in different light reflections? I'd like toi see the whole prpject and then some close ups of the troubled areas. How many coats have you laid down so far? Send then to paulsDIYsolutions@gmail.com. We'll figure this out.
Hi Paul. great video! i had a question. i was working on some stairs (short stair case...only 2 stairs) using wipeon poly from minwax. at the time i wasnt thinking of durability. but then after 4 coats, i realized that it still seems rather thin. would you go back and apply regular brush on polyurethane or just leave it. I have no idea how durable is this wipeon stuff. note that no footwear would be used on these stairs (asian house). like your wood piece in this video, my stairs has a satin look even though the can says 'clear gloss'. Since wipeon poly is really just a thinned out version of brush on polyurethane i cant think of any problems. Do you know if wipeon has ever worked well on stairs? any thoughts?
Hey Layne. You are thinking correctly. Wipe on polyurethane no different from regular polyurethane from a resin standpoint. It is thinned by 50%. So you have approximately 1.5 coats down. That is kinda thin but if there will be nothing to scuff it ( sounds like the only traffic will be bare feet or socks) you should be okay. If after a year you start to see wear spots do a light sanding with a 180 grit and reapply. I think you'll be just fine. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions awesome...thanks for the info. mahalo
i used an oil based poly about 2 weeks ago on a tv stand and it still smells so strong. is this normal? i figured 2 weeks was enough time but my whole room smells strong of poly
Hey RRR. Yeah. A lot depends on temperature, humidity and air circulation. Polyurethane dries on the surface within hours but continues to dry all the way through for a few weeks. The gases leach into the air until it is fully cured. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks for the reply! ill look forward to the day when its fully cured!
Yeah I know if it's in the house it's a strong odor. It's called off-gassing (something my wife accuses me of all the time). Usually two weeks under normal conditions.
In your video, how to apply Poly without bubbles you used an ox hair brush and oil-based Poly and said your mix ratio with the paint thinner was 3:1, you actually did it in the video??
Hey abb. Yes that's right. I'm sorry do you have a question? best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions yes I do, in this video you said and did a 1:1 mix with oil based poly. To clarify, with oil based is it 3:1 or 1:1?
@@sbb526 If you are planning on wiping on your finish it's 1:1 (eqaual parts thinner and p[olyurethane). If you are planning on brushing it on it's 3 parts polyurethane to 1 part thinner. I recommend brushing for large surfaces and wiping for spindly type surfaces. You shoiul go to my website paulsDIY.solutions where you can read in outline form and avail yourself to printable PDF summary sheets. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions ohhhhhhh ok thanks, I missed the part stating the application device determines the mix ratio.
How do you leave it to dry without touching the table? Just confused on how that might work as it has to rest on something
Hey Hard. I think I undertsand what are saying. The bottom will touch. But the bottom of what. I don't really care about the bottom of a cabinet or the feet of a table or chair. For surfaces that I have to flip I either do it one side one day and the next the next day or I use painters pyramids (you can Google them if not familiar). best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions ah I understand now. Thanks so much for the reply. I'm a beginner and I'm looking to start a project soon - and I'm learning so much from your videos
Glad to be part of your joirney. I'm here if you need help. @@hardijw
I have a question. I sand first, apply water to pop the grain, prestain, stain, poly, then smooth once dried if needed then another poly. Your videos I’ve seen never show you using water. I condensed my comment and technique because you already know them. Why don’t you use water to pop the grains prior to proceeding?
Hey lykenn. Any liquid will cause grain raise. The important thing is to remove it before the clear finish. Grain raise should only need to be done once. If you are using a prestain I would: prestain, stain, sand for grain raise (220 grit), then clear finish, sand after an overnight dry (to roughen the clear coat), clear finish, sand after an overnight dry, clear finish, etc. Do not sand the final coat. If you have dust nibs on the final coat use brown paper bag material in place of sand paper to remove them. best . . . paul
In this video you SAY 3 parts polyurethane to 1 part mineral spirits/thinner but correct with text to read 1:1 ratio. In a video you made previous years ago, you said 3:1. Can you clarify please?
Hey Farmer. Good question. The difference is wiping on polyurethane with a rag vs laying down polyurethane with a brush. You need a thinner dilution to wipe on polyurethane. Basically it's thinned 1 part thinner to 1 part polyurethane. Wiping it on is a great choice for areas that would be difficult to apply with a brush. Spindles are a good example. Hope that clarifies. best . . . paul
Thanks. Could you add a few drops of flax oil to the mix? I have seen a video where wipe on poly + mineral spirit + linseed oil was used.
Hey Matias. Yes. There are many branded oils premixed that are various combinations of urethanes and oils. Danish oils are not made from or by Danes and Tru Oil doesn't come from a "tru" plant. These are all combo products. You can definitely mix and match. Who knows in a few months Matias Oil may be the craze. best . . . paul
Wish you were my neighbor !
I've been in the same house for 43 years. It's probably time. Are you volunteering to help with the move??
what brand of poly do you use
Hey 0819. Whatever is on sale! The only exception is water based polyurethane. I only use that when I want to avoid the amber coloration that oil based polyurethane imparts. Then I go with General Finishes. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions how do I know if I bought a can that is ready to use or one that I should dilute with mineral spirits
@@0819nutterbutter Hey 0819. If the can says wipe on polyurethane it's already been diluted. If it doesn't dilute! best . . . paul
Is my first project and I applied polyurethane and when dried turned some white spots...what did I do wrong.....
White spots are typically a sign that there's moisture underneath the finish. Two options try using a hair dryer over the area or wait until the moisture evaporates. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you very much!....I started sanding again ....will follow your advice.... love your videos....
@@silviacastillo4847 You're welcome Silvia. I assume the white spots disspated?
@@paulsDIYsolutions I'm not finish sanding..hope they will...
I'm trying this technique with a one-to-one poly to paint thinner ratio and all it's doing is taking the stain off of my chair. The stain is dry. It dried for 24 hours when it calls for only an hour.
Het Nicholas. A small amount of stain will come off with sanding and still another amount will rub off. That's normal. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions I think sanding is the issue. I didn't know you were supposed to sand after the last coat of stain. What grit?
@@nicholasdupont2468 What happens is stain (or any liquid) will raise the grain on wood creating microscopic fuzzies (kinda like split ends in hair after shampooing). You need to knock those down. Doesn't take much. A very light sanding with a 180 grit will do just fine.
You sound like DAVID LETTERMAN LOL
Funny someone told me I look like him a few weeks ago. Wonder if he needs a double? Could be lucrative!!
Why did you stop making videos?
Hey Eileen. Your timing couldn't be more spot on. Yes I took a couple years off. BUT . . . I'm about to upload 4 new one's that I've been putting together this past winter (I'm quick in the wood shop but slow on the computer). They will be out in the coming weeks as I'm just finalizing the edits. Thanx for asking sorry for the rambling response. best . . . paul
That’s great news! Thanks
Well to me no sanding the last coat can mean the top of the coat or before applying the last coat. Man I hated to ask but this needs to be put to bed with me.
Hey Dennis. Sorry don't sand AFTER the last coat. If you have tiny bubbles or dust nibs use the material from a brown paper shopping bag. It's coarse enough to remove minor imperfections and fine enough so as not the alter the sheen. best . . . paul
camera shake gave me motion sickness please put the camera on a stable surface next time.