1987 Johnson 6 Hp DEAD! - THIS OLD OUTBOARD
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- It's This Old Outboard. 1987 Johnson 6hp. Dead In The Water! Stage One...
A Viewer asked me if I could check out his Old Outboard. Let's Do It !
Also Test Running a New (used) Video Camera I got. Hang in there !
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It's This Old Outboard. YOU KNOW THE CHANNEL
O I like this video and others you make. “Badges we don’t need no stinking Badges “!!! Lol. You are not only a intelligent mechanic but a person that has a good sense of humor. I am learning about the older 1970’s 6hp Johnson motors
Hey. Thanks & Stay tuned !
I worked/overhauled on a 1987 6hp Belgium Johnson with the plastic carb for a buddy at the same time I had purchased a 9.9hp and was converting it to a 15hp for myself. I had 2 of those plastic carbs my buddy had brought me and a overhaul kit so I had an abundance of parts for them. My problem was I would start the motor and it would run fantastic for 60 seconds with the plastic carb then the bottom cylinder would stop firing a real pain in the ass trying to figure out why. Finally out of shear pulling my hair out I put the old metal 9.9hp carb on the 6hp just changed the high speed jet and bam it purred like a kitten. I just left the carb on it and got rid of that primer crap. I had a piece of larger stainless ball chain like dog tag chain. I drilled a hole near the choke lever and attached it to the choke lever when I would pull the ball chain it would choke motor. I cut a small slit above that hole I drilled for choking the motor with ball chain so I could pull the choke chain and then using that slit I drilled in the motor for chain to go through I could wedge chain in slit and it stays choked so I can use both hand to pull the rope one hand holding rope and one hand holding motor. Hope that helps
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I like the idea with the chain but I've decided to keep a primer system. And yes I've already swapped the carb for a "real carb"! Hahaha. Stay tuned for the next episode. Thanks again !
I haven't seen one comment telling about the great design of those plastic fuel circuit tops!?!?
I tell you in the form of a question why they engineered those changes. What do you have to do after you mistakenly use
dirty gas (dirt debris & water) in your outboard???
You MUST remove the carburetor, and then you have to usually melt the lead plug(s) to access the passageways coming from the fuel bowl for low speed circuit function~!~ Then you have to remove the core plug(s) to MAKE CERTAIN that no
debris collected at the discharge idle feed holes in the roof of the venturi~!~ After which, you carefully replace the core plugs
and replace the lead shots/plugs,, reinstall the carb. and test your work~!~ This job takes maybe 2 hours start to finish~!~
Now here comes the beauty of the newer engineered plastic fuel circuit top/cap. The same job can be done by decent mechanics in 1 HOUR or just over~!~ Why??? Because there aren't any closed circuit fuel passageways to deal with~!~
Also there's usually a 1/4-20 drain plug/bolt in the fuel bowl, allowing you to clean out ALL DEBRIS & WATER, by squeezing the primer bulb at the gas tank a few times to clear it~!~ Therefore,, those plastic circuit carbs. will save you a lot of
~ T. & M. ~ and even if you're stuck a couple of miles from the dock/ramp,, using an ordinary screwdriver and pliers
you can fix your motor on the water, and keep fishing for that old timer b. m. BASS !!!!!
Lastly,, you'll NEVER crack that plastic circuit cap......... if you take it easy and with your hand, get familiar with one torque
strength on the 1st. screw, and repeat it on the rest of the screws~!~ Remember.. there's NO PRESSURE IN THE FUEL
IN THE CIRCUIT CAP....... IT'S ONLY A VACUUM~!~!~!~ DON'T STOP MAKING THESE VIDEO'S WE'RE ALL GETTING ADDICTED~!~ LOLOL~!~ CHEERS~!~ SONNY. 🤠
Hey. Thanks for tuning in! Yeah I'm using one on the "Beef it Up" 25 to 35 conversion build I'm doing. I don't have to much experience with them, only from what people say. But I thought it was a cool design and yes easy to clean. In the old days I would pull the plugs/lead shots out, then I realized that was a big waste of time, and even a bigger waste of time trying to get them back in. Hahaha. I haven't done that in years, and almost all the outboards I get have been sitting for long periods of time. I would have used that carb if it wasn't broke, not to mention worrying about the cam and follower not breaking. But I'm old school and thought it would be more fun beefing it up a little. Hahaha. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Need more video to fill my craving 😂
Yeah I cut it short screwing around with the new camera manual modes. Had the mic level too high! Hahaha Stay tuned !
anything ive ever had from Belgium from 80s back was very tough an well designed, these motors were great any of the 6r's ide say
Hey. Cool! Thanks for tuning in!
That’s a cool way to pull start a motor.
Hahaha! Thanks again !
Those plastic carbs aren't that bad. The problem lies mostly with people over torking the top plate and bowl holding srews. Go light and they'll last forever, really !
Yes I learned the hard way, overtightening them
It Shouldn't be that brittle it's just plastic! Hahaha Thanks !
Junk! Hahaha! Thanks !
Well, I'll admit that there isn't a ton of arguments in favour of plastic components carbs so here is my best shot: contrary to aluminum, plastic doesn't react chimically with today's gas and won't generate that jet glogging gel you'll find in metal ones. Keep on makng those great videos !
Hi! Yes! They engineered the removable plastic fuel circuit caps/tops to make it so very easy to clean out dirty low speed circuits without having to remove the entire carburetor, melt out those lead plugs/shots, blow out the top of the carb. and then the fuel bowl as well! Not to mention any core plugs on the top of the carb. !!!
With one screwdriver, and a pair of pliers, and WITHOUT even removing the carb. or the fuel bowl, you can simply squeeze your fuel primer bulb a few times,, and with the drain plug out,, out goes the bad gas and debris!!!
I'm a 35 year J & E tech. and I was quick to embrace what the engineers did on those carburetors!!! Cheers!!!
I have to admit I was disappointed after you did the compression test and didn't say "well, it's got compression, everything else is just a pain in the ass"
Cheers for the vid cobber, catch you on the next one.
Hahaha. Thanks for tuning in!
Back in the day them coils were diamond a dozen know they there between 20 to 30 bucks a pice crazy like watching the real life saga 👍🏻
$35. Actually marineengine.com is selling "take-offs" pretty cheap. Thanks !
Dont you luv plastic bowls and the top plastic parts and not to mention those stupid primers Im a choke flap guy,LOL.. Just another lesson that the engineers who are paid well at least back then to come up with new cost saving measures. Nothing like metal carbs they should of never came out with plastic carb bowls and top covers. If the majority of my old 50S-80S small collectible outboards had plastic carbs I probably wouldnt like fixing them at all .Its amazing how easy an all aluminum carb can come back to life after saltwater ingestion and just sitting for years all stuck and frozen.. Cheap plastic carbs no way close to $100 new for that top cover anyhoo Great Video!!
I don’t even own a outboard over 1984 most of my motors are 30hp 1956 Johnson’s one still has 6volt starter my favorite
@@samtate1260 Are you related to Chris Tate I seen his motors on CZcams he has some beauts too?Yep the oldies are the best in my eyes too for sure. I have quite a collection of small OMC outboards. a few I restored ...
I don’t think so my my relation is in Tennessee east and west Tennessee and southern Illinois and northern Illinois and Indiana but all men in my relation like to rebuild motors and the work on cars and boats
@@samtate1260 Yeah Chris is out of Tennessee too I was just wondering. He has alot real old outboards .....
Hey. I agree ! Hahaha Thanks !
there are numbers printed on the plastic top of carb that is torque sequence when people dont follow sequence and over torque they crack other than that they work fine I got two 9.9 with plastic id rather have metal but I've had no problems
Thanks for tuning in!
I'm not a fan of plastic anything. It gets old and brittle. If there's a metal alternative, I'd look to that. Another great vid though. I always enjoy them.
Thanks again for tuning in!
my first outboard was a5 hp elgin (sears roebuck ) dad traded for it i was about 10 yr old during the 2war early 40s i ran it in a steel drum of water we never did get a boat dad sold it later
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Oh damn! Happy Holidays !
You can fix plastic pretty easily using the hack found on u-tube using cigarette ash combined with super glue. & that's another hack from Kodiak.
Hey. I'll have to give that a try sometime. Thanks again !
I vote metal carb…good video 👍
Me too! Stay tuned !
Thiers not wrong with the plastic carb's you just cann't over torq them. FYI these 6&8 HP Johnson-Evinrudes were some of thier best engines along with the 9.9's and 15 HP's. Definitly worth while saving.
Aloha...................
Yeah Baby! Thanks for tuning in!
Another one saved from the scap yard. Eventually plastic will fatigue because of vibration,heat and age. Of course the same thing has happened to me. Just put a metal carb on it, make it easier for the next guy. 😀
Metal Real Carb on the way! Stay tuned !
That’s one stubborn little motor! A new carb or at least a new plastic top piece should sort her out.
Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Do u still have the beast
Great video
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yes it's in my storage unit. give me $100 and it's yours! The tiller handle is probably worth more by itself. Thanks & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I’m in Michigan that be sweet
Thanks appreciate it! Check out our channel. Buddies and I plan on making more videos.
@@outboardidiots3622 ok
If anyone can fix it you can have a good day
Hey. I'm gonna try!
He needs to spring for a
a real carburetor
Stay tuned ! Thanks !
BETTER OFF WITH A METAL CARB LAT MDEL 6 OR 8 HP
Yep!