How to convert a Nikon 50mm 1.4 non-ai lens so that it can be used on modern cameras. The aperture ring needs to be removed and notched. The process is not difficult.
Nicely done. I found your video while looking for information on how far to notch the ring. Your mention of going at leat to the inside notch is a good point to bring it around to. I too had trouble with the screws. the first one began to strip and i took a very small jewelers hammer and gently tapped the screw driver while applying pressure down and sideways as if to turn it. after two or three gentle taps, the screws broke free. I am a fan of all these old lenses. they work well on my D7200. The AI and AF lenses from years ago still are great glass and much cheaper than buying the new high end lenses that they rival
Thanks. I've since learned that the best way to go about getting the screws out is to use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. This gives the best chance to not strip screws. As for correctly judging where to notch the mount, get a cheap "throwaway" film body to test on. I'd rather cut multiple times and get a perfect fit than overshoot and not get the correct exif data.
I did the same job on a 50mm f1.4 Nikon. Everything worked according to procedure, except the fact that when releasing the shutter it caused a noisy vibration due to the device on the side of the sensor that controls the opening of the diaphragm of the lens opened and released until the determined aperture. I checked the reason for this noise and realized that if I didn't fully fit the lens (leaving a few millimeters without fully fitting the bayonets) the noise was eliminated. I removed almost half of the metal from the rod that is in contact with the inner rod next to the camera sensor (face that is noticeably a little worn by the contact with the camera rod) and everything was great.
hi.. one question... I have the Nikkor s version of this lens... no meters, just ft. and there are no screws on the back of the lens... is there any way to convert this one?
Im surprised you did not use ACETONE on the screws..?? Softens up the Thread Lock - I use it on pretty much EVERY LENS I need to Disassemble.....and what Lita said below. JIS are a must if you plan to repair and/or clean lenses. Currently have a 135mm f/3.5 Self AI'd...next in line is a 50mm f/1.2 if I can find one relatively inexpensive.
Thank you for your reply! I have the same Nikon 50mm 1.4 Nikkor SC Non-AI. It will hep me a lot, if you could do a video on how to disassemble the shutter blades and put them back together. All the best,
For several years after Nikon introduced the AI meter coupling on its new models (1978 ?), Nikon offered a "factory" upgrade to pre-AI lenses for the bargain price of $25 each. I had the four lenses I bought in 1976 upgraded to AI by Nikon, but the 50mm 1.4 I bought new in 1962 was one of the few lenses they excluded from their program. Since I rarely used the lens anyway, it went on my pre-AI body and got largely ignored. About 6 years ago, I finally had the lens modified professionally, much as done here, for about $30. It was probably worth more in its original condition as a collector's item, but so it goes.
Thank you very much! It's very helpful. Would you know how to remove and clean the lens? I've been looking all over youtube, but I can't find the same lens we have. Please advise and thank you.
I'm planning on making videos on how to disassemble and service lenses in the future, but I need practice first. At some point in the future there will be a video where I at least partially disassemble the 135mm lens.
This is an excellent tutorial and an overall high quality video, however, there's one huge problem. You need to have the first end of the notch at the f8 marker otherwise the camera will NOT meter this lens correctly when you want to use it on any camera with the aperture feeler, the d750 is one of such cameras.
Joaofrancisco Carneiro it’s a big deal, if you make the end notch at f8 it will meter correctly on cameras, putting it at f16 will allow it to mount but not meter correctly. Every lens’ notch position is different based on its maximum aperture.
OEM Nikon replacements have been sold out for years, but some do show up for sale as new or used. Note there are several variety based on f numbers needed and the 1.4 version seems to be hardest to find.
The notch should be at the maximum aperture value (smallest number) plus. 4 2/3 stops. About f8 for this lens. The camera doesn’t know what aperture the lens is set to, just how many stops it is away from wide open, which is how it is metering. The position is different for lenses with different wide open apertures.
I have this same lens except my metering prongs are closer to the edge of the lens preventing me from grinding out the area. Can I remove them entirely?
You should be able to unscrew the metering coupler. Make sure to save it someplace safe in a plastic bag, as you can reattach the coupler should you ever want to use it with a film camera or sell the lens.
Are you using a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver? I like Hozan screwdrivers for tough screws with small heads. The grips allow you to get good leverage. Another thing you can try is to dab a little rubbing alcohol on the screws. Put some on a cotton swab and rub it on there. There might be something keeping them in place. As a last resort you can try applying some heat. If you have a soldering iron you can try heating up the screws with it. Obviously, be careful doing this.
Yes you - and therefore me to- Cut Way to much off. You should mention this in the movie. You Can mesure it and say how much to Cut off. That will suit you.
it's like bible to me really really thank you감사합니다!!
Před 3 lety+4
This is crap. If you’re going to take apart a Japanese made camera you need JIS screwdrivers, otherwise you seriously risk damaging the screw heads and will not be able to remove them with drilling, etc. fortunately that didn’t happen here, but are you willing to risk damaging your own lenses?
In the 50mm f1.4 the notch starts at middle F8, worth mentioning...
Thank you so much for the video.... I just converted my 50mm 1.4f non Ai to Ai.... I just used rotary tool and it just worked fantastic. ❤❤❤❤
Some Nikon cameras also need a min aperture cut out for the pin too. That is a pin at 8 O clock on the camera.
Nicely done. I found your video while looking for information on how far to notch the ring. Your mention of going at leat to the inside notch is a good point to bring it around to. I too had trouble with the screws. the first one began to strip and i took a very small jewelers hammer and gently tapped the screw driver while applying pressure down and sideways as if to turn it. after two or three gentle taps, the screws broke free. I am a fan of all these old lenses. they work well on my D7200. The AI and AF lenses from years ago still are great glass and much cheaper than buying the new high end lenses that they rival
Thanks. I've since learned that the best way to go about getting the screws out is to use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. This gives the best chance to not strip screws.
As for correctly judging where to notch the mount, get a cheap "throwaway" film body to test on. I'd rather cut multiple times and get a perfect fit than overshoot and not get the correct exif data.
Great video, really helpful, can’t find the right tool/screwdriver to loosen them. Info about the tool used? Thanks
I did the same job on a 50mm f1.4 Nikon. Everything worked according to procedure, except the fact that when releasing the shutter it caused a noisy vibration due to the device on the side of the sensor that controls the opening of the diaphragm of the lens opened and released until the determined aperture. I checked the reason for this noise and realized that if I didn't fully fit the lens (leaving a few millimeters without fully fitting the bayonets) the noise was eliminated. I removed almost half of the metal from the rod that is in contact with the inner rod next to the camera sensor (face that is noticeably a little worn by the contact with the camera rod) and everything was great.
hi.. one question... I have the Nikkor s version of this lens... no meters, just ft. and there are no screws on the back of the lens... is there any way to convert this one?
how oddly accurate of a video. I have this exact lens and exact DSLR body!
Im surprised you did not use ACETONE on the screws..?? Softens up the Thread Lock - I use it on pretty much EVERY LENS I need to Disassemble.....and what Lita said below. JIS are a must if you plan to repair and/or clean lenses. Currently have a 135mm f/3.5 Self AI'd...next in line is a 50mm f/1.2 if I can find one relatively inexpensive.
Thank you for your reply! I have the same Nikon 50mm 1.4 Nikkor SC Non-AI. It will hep me a lot, if you could do a video on how to disassemble the shutter blades and put them back together. All the best,
how did you learn to do this?
great video really helpfull guide
For several years after Nikon introduced the AI meter coupling on its new models (1978 ?), Nikon offered a "factory" upgrade to pre-AI lenses for the bargain price of $25 each. I had the four lenses I bought in 1976 upgraded to AI by Nikon, but the 50mm 1.4 I bought new in 1962 was one of the few lenses they excluded from their program. Since I rarely used the lens anyway, it went on my pre-AI body and got largely ignored. About 6 years ago, I finally had the lens modified professionally, much as done here, for about $30. It was probably worth more in its original condition as a collector's item, but so it goes.
Thank you very much! It's very helpful. Would you know how to remove and clean the lens? I've been looking all over youtube, but I can't find the same lens we have. Please advise and thank you.
I'm planning on making videos on how to disassemble and service lenses in the future, but I need practice first. At some point in the future there will be a video where I at least partially disassemble the 135mm lens.
Thanks for your reply! I
Tnks i have one lens nikkon Sc 50mm with fungus to. Need help!
This is an excellent tutorial and an overall high quality video, however, there's one huge problem. You need to have the first end of the notch at the f8 marker otherwise the camera will NOT meter this lens correctly when you want to use it on any camera with the aperture feeler, the d750 is one of such cameras.
Didn't understand what you wanna say at the f8 marker
Joaofrancisco Carneiro it’s a big deal, if you make the end notch at f8 it will meter correctly on cameras, putting it at f16 will allow it to mount but not meter correctly. Every lens’ notch position is different based on its maximum aperture.
@@nolanngo2652 ok. Understand
I have a Nikkor 55mm f-1.2 pre ai. So which f marker should I start grind?
Tnks in advance!
Joaofrancisco Carneiro it should be about a half stop past f5.6. Basically between f8 and f5.6 in the middle.
@@nolanngo2652 thanks you a lot
is there an adapter ring or something to avoid doing the whole cutting thing and be able to use it with new Dslrs?
OEM Nikon replacements have been sold out for years, but some do show up for sale as new or used. Note there are several variety based on f numbers needed and the 1.4 version seems to be hardest to find.
Nail polish remover mixed with asotone will soften thread locker.
I have exactly the same lens on my all black Nikkormat ft2. I also have a 105mm f2.5 Nikkor P lens for my Nikon FE camera.
Where did you get the measurements from?
I have an original AI 50mm 1.4 here and the notch starts in the middle of the aperture 8 figure, not 16.
I guessed and checked on the measurements. I still don't have a foolproof way of correctly aligning the notch in the aperture ring.
Ni5ei I also believe it is from f/8, not f/16
I saw images of nikkor-s kenrockwell web they modified by nikon service notch start at middle of aperture 8.
The notch should be at the maximum aperture value (smallest number) plus. 4 2/3 stops. About f8 for this lens. The camera doesn’t know what aperture the lens is set to, just how many stops it is away from wide open, which is how it is metering. The position is different for lenses with different wide open apertures.
Hi please I got a question, can I use this lens for my d3300 camera. I did not understand what you actually do on this video🤔🤔🤔
d3000 and d5000 woul work - no modification needed
You removed way too much! It should in between f8 and f11 instead of all the way until f16
In fact, it should be exactly on f8.
I have this same lens except my metering prongs are closer to the edge of the lens preventing me from grinding out the area. Can I remove them entirely?
You should be able to unscrew the metering coupler. Make sure to save it someplace safe in a plastic bag, as you can reattach the coupler should you ever want to use it with a film camera or sell the lens.
do you have any more recommendations for getting the screws out? I've tried everything and cannot get them to budge.
Are you using a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver? I like Hozan screwdrivers for tough screws with small heads. The grips allow you to get good leverage.
Another thing you can try is to dab a little rubbing alcohol on the screws. Put some on a cotton swab and rub it on there. There might be something keeping them in place.
As a last resort you can try applying some heat. If you have a soldering iron you can try heating up the screws with it. Obviously, be careful doing this.
Yes you - and therefore me to- Cut Way to much off. You should mention this in the movie. You Can mesure it and say how much to Cut off. That will suit you.
it's like bible to me
really really thank you감사합니다!!
This is crap. If you’re going to take apart a Japanese made camera you need JIS screwdrivers, otherwise you seriously risk damaging the screw heads and will not be able to remove them with drilling, etc. fortunately that didn’t happen here, but are you willing to risk damaging your own lenses?
JIS is only cross point, flat head on Japanese lens is metric.