Choke , fuel shut off , same thing . You're doing what you have to do . It took me many cans of cleaner and several pressure washing bouts to clean my 580 . Motor all painted . Looks great . Now I got to pull the pump ! Geeeez !
I've watched every video on the Roosa Masters. Everyday Projects suggested this site too. Everyday Projects video on disassembly is critical. A commenter points out that there are two air/bleed wires in the one hole instead of one on the head. Thanks, all of the videos are great.
Thank you for making a such a great video! Information was so helpful. Although I am working on the Case 480E LL Fuel Injector Pump, Your video gave great insight. Thank you again!
Thanks! My pump just took a dump. It is leaking fuel out of every seal. Finally stopped the engine from running at anything more than an idle. Will be pulling it out this weekend. I ordered my rebuild kit, should be here tomorrow. Shocking how expensive a new/rebuilt pump costs for this old tractor.
I’ve looked at a bunch of these videos. This one is the BEST! Made it SOOO easy. My pump was soo clogged. I need to take some fine steel wool to some parts. And suggestions?
Just be gentle the tolerances on some of the parts are super critical so maybe start with a plastic bristle brush and if you move on to steel wool start with the finest you can get
@@GRTRanchadventures yeah but my teacher was from Dyersburg TN. and he was a gun Allis Chalmers used to send to the fields if a farmer had pump problems. He told us many times he rebuilt them on the tailgate of his pickup. He was sharp.
The fitting on top has a check valve the size of a BB that is clear in color when properly cleaned that's the problem when engine starts right up then stalls.clean with pick and brake clean
I know this video is older ,but at roughly 12 min in ,when u pulled the pump body off out came the bottom of the old weight cage with it still attached to the rotor with the snap ring than out came the new weight cage .Did you just stack the new weight cage assy on top of the old cage bottom plate and reassemble the last round. Something doesn’t look right . The new cage should be in place on top of the rotor with the timing mark transferred from the old plate and that old bottom plate should not be anywhere in that pump anymore.
I just watched this again I'm so glad that you went ahead and "broke trail" for us on this. Now we know all the bolts not to go too hard on, which ones not to snap off, etc. You're a real trooper to break all those off for us! Thanks Ha Ha. I'm going to try starting mine before I attempt this rebuild. Maybe it will work fine without it. What were your symptoms that led to the rebuild? Leaks?
It was leaking but it stopped working all together, couldn't get fuel to the injectors. That said I'm still having problems with it after the rebuild which is why I haven't posted the next video yet
Hey there. Just curious where you got the part numbers for those orings for the throttle linkage and choke. I am having some difficulty finding them online. Thanks. Great video.
They are timed but it's easy to adjust removing the pump is no big deal. When you re install it there is a punch mark on the end of the shaft and a matching one inside the hole make sure they are lined up or it will be 180 degrees out, after that there is a window you can open to see a line that indicates timing with the engine at tdc. However on mine I just made sure to put it as close to the way it came off and the engine started but was running rough so I just barely loosened the mounting bolts while it was running and it pulled itself into time.
Hi I just wanted to know that piece at the end of the pump you called the vein with the small spring in middle. Is ther a way you can help me with a part number for those piece. Need help the springs broke on my pump
Badger diesel sells them on Amazon part number 24371-R. Also you will want part number 29111 from the same seller to replace the old flyweight retainer with the updated model if you haven't already.
Not that I'm aware of, I think the only adjustment other than time is the the cam advance and it's made by shiming the advance piston power side plug, so maybe you could tweak it a little but I don't think there's much changing it from the stock settings.
@@GRTRanchadventures I see, my dad has a 480ll and we if possible want to give it a little bit more power. Thanks for taking the time to reply to my comment.
It's a year later and I'm just at the point of trying to start the 188 diesel in my '68 Case 580ck. I rolled it over the other day and had fuel up to the pump but none reaching the injectors. I think you said that your attempts to rebuild were unsuccessful. I'm thinking about tearing into mine (carefully) and installing a kit. What did you finally do to get yours working? I think you took it to a shop? I'm trying to avoid that. Do you know if there is a bleed port on the pump. I may have air trapped. I think there is severe varnish inside from sitting for years. I'm going to keep trying to bleed it first before opening it up. Absolutely zero fuel at injector lines so far!! Thanks in advance. Craig
I ended up taking mine to a shop... Once you get fuel to the pump you should be able to bleed the injectors and get fuel there, on mine it only takes bleeding one injector and it will usually start.
@@GRTRanchadventures OK. Thanks. I may try to install the kit first. I watched another CZcamsr called "Western Truck and Tractor Repair" and he shows a new part--a solid weight cage to replace the flex rings inside the pump. I ordered one of those from Amazon and I already had the kit. Wish me luck. and thanks for the reply.
@@EverydayProjects ya I watched that video before I did mine and replaced the weight cage as well the part numbers I used are in one of the videos. I think I missed a step based on comments, I didn't know about the distributing valve in the shaft somewhere apparently it takes an Allen key to remove and someone pointed out I didn't take it out. Also the shop replaced the brass wear rings on the drive shaft which I didn't know to do so maybe you can learn from my mistakes and be successful! Good luck my friend 👍 the pump is not that complex I just needed mine running and after having it apart 4 times without finding the problem I threw in the towel I hope you have better luck 🤞
@@GRTRanchadventures Everything that goes up online and YT helps others. I've learned a lot about that pump from your videos. This afternoon I took out that drain plug/bleeder you mentioned in your video on the side of the pump below the throttle lever and above the lock bolt, and a whole lot of old stale fuel came out. Then it went dry. I put the plug in, cranked it over and took out the plug again and now fresh diesel came out. It didn't reach the injector lines on subsequent tries but it seems promising.
@@EverydayProjects glad to help that's why I make the videos. My guess would be if it's not making pressure to the injectors that either the flyweight flex ring failed or the distributing valve that I failed to take aper is clogged but don't really know as I never got mine working on my own
Looking for help . My 580 B will start up cold and run for a couple minutes then die . Restarts and repeats . But every time is runs less . Changed filters, then injectors . Pump is putting fuel to injectors. I just don’t know the pressure it is putting out . Time to rebuild pump ??? Any ideas would be great
Sounds like it's starved for fuel, if you already changed the fuel filters my next guess would be the injection pump. Hope that's not the case it cost me about $800 to get mine rebuilt. 😓 that being said it's hard to trouble shoot in YT comments so, if you could give me more info on the machine and the problem I'll do what I can to help.
@@GRTRanchadventures upon further investigation I believe the flex ring on the flywheel is broken causing pressure to build up internally and shuts the pump off . ??
@@brandonwilson8974 that's very possible if that's the only problem you can replace it with the upgraded flyweight that does not use the plastic flex ring. The part numbers are in the videos I made trying to rebuild mine but ultimately I had to take mine to a shop to get it fixed
@@GRTRanchadventures I really appreciate your honesty. I was debating on doing it myself. After hearing about the problems you encountered. The decision was Clear. I found a local shop ,,, knew all about the roosa master pump . $600 to $800 and a few days
@@brandonwilson8974 my shop charged me $770 and threw in a bottle of stanadyne fuel treatment. Pluses they replaced the brass drive shaft which at the time I didn't even know to look at but if it has wear it can leak fuel into the crank case. And they turned it around in 3 days. So in the end I think you made the right choice and if I run into any injection pumps in the future I'll most likely go straight to a shop. Glad I could be of help😁
I showed you everything I saw if there is another valve in the rotor I dident know about it and it's not on the prints or parts list I was able to find in the pump
@@gatepro1000 just found it on a drawing... Full disclosure the pump did not work when I put it back in the machine so maybe that was the problem... Wish you had told me sooner I already took it to a shop and had it rebuilt, it's running good now, but maybe I could have saved some money.
Choke , fuel shut off , same thing . You're doing what you have to do . It took me many cans of cleaner and several pressure washing bouts to clean my 580 . Motor all painted . Looks great . Now I got to pull the pump ! Geeeez !
I've watched every video on the Roosa Masters. Everyday Projects suggested this site too. Everyday Projects video on disassembly is critical. A commenter points out that there are two air/bleed wires in the one hole instead of one on the head. Thanks, all of the videos are great.
I have spent hours watching CZcams videos on how to rebuild these pumps. This is the best one! Great camera views and good details about each part.
Glad to show it!!😁
Your skills have come a long way since your 1981 Ford F100 days!
Looking forward to seeing the basket Case back in action.
Looks good. I'll watch it again a few times in the morning. I may do this with mine after seeing this. Thanks for showing us this!
Great camera work! Clear and concise
Thanks! I'm getting ready to pull one apart, some of thoughs little details help alot.
Thank you for making a such a great video! Information was so helpful. Although I am working on the Case 480E LL Fuel Injector Pump, Your video gave great insight. Thank you again!
Thanks! My pump just took a dump. It is leaking fuel out of every seal. Finally stopped the engine from running at anything more than an idle. Will be pulling it out this weekend. I ordered my rebuild kit, should be here tomorrow. Shocking how expensive a new/rebuilt pump costs for this old tractor.
I’ve looked at a bunch of these videos. This one is the BEST! Made it SOOO easy.
My pump was soo clogged. I need to take some fine steel wool to some parts. And suggestions?
Just be gentle the tolerances on some of the parts are super critical so maybe start with a plastic bristle brush and if you move on to steel wool start with the finest you can get
Gracias, Tremendo video hasta ahora es el más completo que he visto y sin prisa para así ver Muy bien todos los detalles
nightmare, i feel cold sweat now
Great information, thanks
When I was in school our diesel class used to take these apart put any necessary parts in and run it on our injection machine to set the port pounds.
Wish I had a school to teach me lol
@@GRTRanchadventures yeah but my teacher was from Dyersburg TN. and he was a gun Allis Chalmers used to send to the fields if a farmer had pump problems. He told us many times he rebuilt them on the tailgate of his pickup. He was sharp.
@@millardhayes1884 sounds like a good guy to learn from, any chance I get to learn from a grey beard I take it. 👍
im rebuilding pump where the rotor seized in the pump body. trying to figure out how to press it out.
The fitting on top has a check valve the size of a BB that is clear in color when properly cleaned that's the problem when engine starts right up then stalls.clean with pick and brake clean
No it doesn't that was the first thing I looked at on this pump it's just a regular 90 that goes into a strainer, no check valve in it
I know this video is older ,but at roughly 12 min in ,when u pulled the pump body off out came the bottom of the old weight cage with it still attached to the rotor with the snap ring than out came the new weight cage .Did you just stack the new weight cage assy on top of the old cage bottom plate and reassemble the last round. Something doesn’t look right . The new cage should be in place on top of the rotor with the timing mark transferred from the old plate and that old bottom plate should not be anywhere in that pump anymore.
I just watched this again I'm so glad that you went ahead and "broke trail" for us on this. Now we know all the bolts not to go too hard on, which ones not to snap off, etc. You're a real trooper to break all those off for us! Thanks Ha Ha. I'm going to try starting mine before I attempt this rebuild. Maybe it will work fine without it. What were your symptoms that led to the rebuild? Leaks?
It was leaking but it stopped working all together, couldn't get fuel to the injectors. That said I'm still having problems with it after the rebuild which is why I haven't posted the next video yet
@@GRTRanchadventures I look forward to finding out what the trouble is. Perhaps something is worn beyond tolerances??
Thanks for showing this video. I found it very helpful :)
Very nice
Great video
Great video.
Hey there. Just curious where you got the part numbers for those orings for the throttle linkage and choke. I am having some difficulty finding them online. Thanks. Great video.
I just bought a kit that had everything in it I don't have separate part numbers
I have same issues you had no fuel to injectors. Was told the pumps are timed is this true? Om nervous to remove the pump for rebuild
They are timed but it's easy to adjust removing the pump is no big deal. When you re install it there is a punch mark on the end of the shaft and a matching one inside the hole make sure they are lined up or it will be 180 degrees out, after that there is a window you can open to see a line that indicates timing with the engine at tdc. However on mine I just made sure to put it as close to the way it came off and the engine started but was running rough so I just barely loosened the mounting bolts while it was running and it pulled itself into time.
Hi I just wanted to know that piece at the end of the pump you called the vein with the small spring in middle. Is ther a way you can help me with a part number for those piece. Need help the springs broke on my pump
anyone know where to find the kit to rebuild it
Badger diesel sells them on Amazon part number 24371-R. Also you will want part number 29111 from the same seller to replace the old flyweight retainer with the updated model if you haven't already.
Great video, all around. I am working on my Dad's 74 580b with the same pump. It has been sitting for 15 years. Where did you get your seal kit from?
I got a kit off of Amazon
@@markwaschke1635 Great, the kit that was suggested was a great kit and i got it in a couple of days. A great company to work with.
That’s all there is to he says. Lol. Theta a pretty good project. The video must be helpful to refer back to.
Ya having video to reference is d definitely a benefit to making this channel
So many small parts!
Where is the next video on rebuilding the pump??
Tomorrow actually 😃
This is very informative. Do you know if you can turn up the fuel delivery on these pumps like the DB2?
Not that I'm aware of, I think the only adjustment other than time is the the cam advance and it's made by shiming the advance piston power side plug, so maybe you could tweak it a little but I don't think there's much changing it from the stock settings.
@@GRTRanchadventures I see, my dad has a 480ll and we if possible want to give it a little bit more power. Thanks for taking the time to reply to my comment.
It's a year later and I'm just at the point of trying to start the 188 diesel in my '68 Case 580ck. I rolled it over the other day and had fuel up to the pump but none reaching the injectors. I think you said that your attempts to rebuild were unsuccessful. I'm thinking about tearing into mine (carefully) and installing a kit. What did you finally do to get yours working? I think you took it to a shop? I'm trying to avoid that. Do you know if there is a bleed port on the pump. I may have air trapped. I think there is severe varnish inside from sitting for years. I'm going to keep trying to bleed it first before opening it up. Absolutely zero fuel at injector lines so far!! Thanks in advance. Craig
I ended up taking mine to a shop... Once you get fuel to the pump you should be able to bleed the injectors and get fuel there, on mine it only takes bleeding one injector and it will usually start.
@@GRTRanchadventures OK. Thanks. I may try to install the kit first. I watched another CZcamsr called "Western Truck and Tractor Repair" and he shows a new part--a solid weight cage to replace the flex rings inside the pump. I ordered one of those from Amazon and I already had the kit. Wish me luck. and thanks for the reply.
@@EverydayProjects ya I watched that video before I did mine and replaced the weight cage as well the part numbers I used are in one of the videos. I think I missed a step based on comments, I didn't know about the distributing valve in the shaft somewhere apparently it takes an Allen key to remove and someone pointed out I didn't take it out. Also the shop replaced the brass wear rings on the drive shaft which I didn't know to do so maybe you can learn from my mistakes and be successful! Good luck my friend 👍 the pump is not that complex I just needed mine running and after having it apart 4 times without finding the problem I threw in the towel I hope you have better luck 🤞
@@GRTRanchadventures Everything that goes up online and YT helps others. I've learned a lot about that pump from your videos. This afternoon I took out that drain plug/bleeder you mentioned in your video on the side of the pump below the throttle lever and above the lock bolt, and a whole lot of old stale fuel came out. Then it went dry. I put the plug in, cranked it over and took out the plug again and now fresh diesel came out. It didn't reach the injector lines on subsequent tries but it seems promising.
@@EverydayProjects glad to help that's why I make the videos. My guess would be if it's not making pressure to the injectors that either the flyweight flex ring failed or the distributing valve that I failed to take aper is clogged but don't really know as I never got mine working on my own
Looking for help . My 580 B will start up cold and run for a couple minutes then die . Restarts and repeats . But every time is runs less . Changed filters, then injectors . Pump is putting fuel to injectors. I just don’t know the pressure it is putting out . Time to rebuild pump ??? Any ideas would be great
Sounds like it's starved for fuel, if you already changed the fuel filters my next guess would be the injection pump. Hope that's not the case it cost me about $800 to get mine rebuilt. 😓 that being said it's hard to trouble shoot in YT comments so, if you could give me more info on the machine and the problem I'll do what I can to help.
@@GRTRanchadventures upon further investigation I believe the flex ring on the flywheel is broken causing pressure to build up internally and shuts the pump off . ??
@@brandonwilson8974 that's very possible if that's the only problem you can replace it with the upgraded flyweight that does not use the plastic flex ring. The part numbers are in the videos I made trying to rebuild mine but ultimately I had to take mine to a shop to get it fixed
@@GRTRanchadventures
I really appreciate your honesty. I was debating on doing it myself. After hearing about the problems you encountered. The decision was Clear. I found a local shop ,,, knew all about the roosa master pump . $600 to $800 and a few days
@@brandonwilson8974 my shop charged me $770 and threw in a bottle of stanadyne fuel treatment. Pluses they replaced the brass drive shaft which at the time I didn't even know to look at but if it has wear it can leak fuel into the crank case. And they turned it around in 3 days. So in the end I think you made the right choice and if I run into any injection pumps in the future I'll most likely go straight to a shop. Glad I could be of help😁
Do you by chance have a link where you ordered the rebuild kit from? This is the same pump I’m working on and I’m having a hard time finding the kit
I think I got them from yesterday's tractors it will have some parts you don't need but will have everything you do need
@@GRTRanchadventures thanks man I appreciate it
Didn't show the delivery valve in the middle of the rotor.
I showed you everything I saw if there is another valve in the rotor I dident know about it and it's not on the prints or parts list I was able to find in the pump
@@GRTRanchadventures It's a very critical part of the system . It takes an allen wrench to remove it from the slotted end of the rotor.
@@gatepro1000 just found it on a drawing... Full disclosure the pump did not work when I put it back in the machine so maybe that was the problem... Wish you had told me sooner I already took it to a shop and had it rebuilt, it's running good now, but maybe I could have saved some money.
@@gatepro1000 Thanks for this tip.. I will look for that as well. My tractor is a 1975 580b, what should I expect as far as sludge and dirt inside?
سلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاته صباح يا عالم
He still hasn't removed the fitting CAUSING the problem on the cover
as i said in your other comment it STILL DOES NOT HAVE A CHECK VALVE in the 90