Let's 3D Print a Guitar
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- čas přidán 24. 04. 2024
- Watch as I struggle to print and then glue a PrusaCaster printed with mostly PLA but also a bit of PETG+.
Here's the links to the STL files on Printables:
Prusacaster:
www.printables.com/model/3987...
BexGears Remix of Main Body:
www.printables.com/model/4151...
#3dprinting #prusa #3dprinter #prusacaster #guitar #luthier #3dprintedinstruments #music #plasticguitar #pla #PETG - Věda a technologie
Great job on the 3D printed guitar. I am also working on printing one for myself, so it was nice to see how you handled some of the potential issues (such as the holes on the neck not lining up).
Right at the start of the video you say it has a tiny bit of creeping when the edges of the print detach from the bed. That isn’t the correct term, the correct term is warping. Creep is when a material slowly deforms under load, like if you print a hook, hang something on it and it very slowly stretches and deforms the hook even though you aren’t exceeding the strength of the hook. I haven’t watched the rest of the video but you will likely experience creep with the neck of the guitar, you will tune it and then you will likely need to tune it again after a short period of time due to the plastic deforming under the load from the strings. Creep tends to be worst in the first few days after the load has been applied and then it tends to stabilise.
Also higher temperature materials are more likely to warp especially when you aren’t using a heated chamber. Parts warp because of internal stresses created by temperature differences within the material (so higher temperature materials have a higher temperature difference with the room temperature air) so if you can keep the temperature of the part more consistent, like using a chamber (either heated or unheated) then you can reduce the warping. That’s why the likes of ABS, nylon, polycarbonate, etc, are very likely to warp without a heated chamber although it can happen on any material. Also keeping the part hotter during printing helps to increase layer adhesion strength in some materials, like the high temperature ones I mentioned because when printing the current layer has to melt and fuse with the layer below it and this works better if the layer below it is hotter.
As for glow in the dark filament, like most glow in the dark things, it absorbs the UV light and then emits it slowly over time as a different colour of light, that is how it glows, so it pretty much always needs “charged up”, so if you expose it to UV light it will then glow but it will dim pretty quickly, then it needs exposed to UV light again.
You might have some issues with the holes you drilled through the printed green part, depending on how much infill you used. Basically since 3D printed parts are hollow (when you don’t use 100 % infill) you only have the top and bottom surfaces of the part plus the infill to resist the force on those screws, whereas with the original holes which were printed, you have the top and bottom surface plus a tube down the hole too which helps a lot with strength.
Overall a very good and well done project, it seems the end results are pretty good too. A very well made video too. I’ll be interested to see what you do in the future.
I'm fairly shade tree on 3D prints but what about a 3D pen for filling in or gluing? maybe it could be of some use. not sure.
I love your pets man!! I really hope kitty doesn't like to get up on that handrail out on the deck. Very cool video. Subbed!!
Did you scale up the thickness of the guitar or something? I dont remember them being this thick.
Looks good - I want to make one of these for my little brother.
Did you print PETG on the smooth sheet? You’re supposed to use a textured or satin sheet for PETG
Good job on the printing you just need to research how to set up a guitar because that's why its in tune when you play open strings but goes out of tune when you play chords.
No 3dprinted strings - no fun :|