Great starter guide! Good advice on the goretex pants, anyway wearing them is the best way to end up crying at the bottom of the fall because you ripped them open with your crampons (and they are $$$...)
I actually met a team last season in the Italian Dolomites, where one of the guys had just ripped his brand new pants because his crampons got stuck in them - so wearing gaiters is definitely a good choice 😄
A couple items I like that maybe some would be interested: Patagonia Nano Air hoody. I don’t know how they do it, but this thing regulates moisture and heat very well. It is designed to be “active insulation” and I find it replaces that a layer, as in it acts as a soft shell and insulator in one. In very wet conditions in Cogne last month, I wore a Norrona wool base with the Patagonia and a helly Hansen hard shell with pit zips open. This way I was dry, warm enough, but never sweaty. Additionally, my guide tipped me off on gloves: commercial fishing gloves, such as made by Showa. You can have fodrad or icke fodrad (use a thin liner) and they are truly watertight, and around 20 euros. I actually use these for my work on factory trawler, just didn’t think of it for ice climbing in wet conditions. Cheers!
wlcrutch great tip on the gloves!! Gotta try that 😄 Yeah, I have heard of that jacket! It sounds amazing. I really like the insulated part, and would definitely eliminate the mid-layer and then save weight. Thanks for the tip 😄
If you are just starting out and don't want to spend a wild amount of money on gloves, check out working gloves, for example in a hardware store. Some come with insulation, they are super grippy and cheap. I know some guides that only work with these gloves.
@@Cragcloud I was just wearing them in -2°C and snowfall and I have to say they are pretty nice. Obviously, not as warm wool mittens, but you keep a high amount of dexterity and agility in your fingers. I just did some photography with tripod and everything and any photographer/videographer will appreciate that it is even possible with gloves. For an explicit landscape photography trip, where you walk for hours it makes more sense to have very warm gloves and just take them off when shooting. But back to ice climbing. The pros: - Amazing grip - Cheap and easy to find - High dexterity (I was wearing them while solving a jigsaw puzzle, so knots should not be an issue) The cons: - Not super warm - Probably they won't last as long as the high quality equivalent, since the rubberised surface might wear off (I will let you know at the end of the season) Conclusion: In my opinion they are the best bang for the buck out there. If you are on a budget or you already spent all your money on outer layers, ice tools, crampons, boots, ropes and so on or maybe you just want to see if ice climbing is for you, then I can highly recommend these types of gloves. I am sure there are great differences in quality between different manufacturers.
@@julianohl7649 What about waterproofness? 😀 It definitely makes sense in terms of dexterity, so one don’t get gloves that are too thick and you can’t “feel” the ice tool 😄
@@Cragcloud So the fingers and palm are rubberised and hence totally water (and air) proof. This bit is not breathable at all. The back of the glove is only fabric and breathable, but not waterproof. This design is pretty standard for these working gloves, I think.
Allow me to share my setup: smartwool mountaineering socks icebreaker boxer icebreaker long john Softshell pants (la sportiva alpine guide pants) Long sleeves Icebreaker Oasis 200 Patagonia R1 pullover Softshell jacket La Sportiva Albigna Climbing gloves: BD Kingpin Belay gloves: Hestra Army leather goretex mittens A buff around the neck Arcteryx bird toque Just in case: Norrona falketind Down Hood Jacket and Rab flashpoint jacket and a light balaclava
@@Cragcloud I like it a lot, its very light and packable, breath well and can take some rain/snow, the hood is a good fit too either on top of the helmet or under it (similar to the patagonia R1 pullover hoody) What I like about this setup is that you just have to leave the beanie, the long John and the long sleeves thermal top and take an Icebreaker short sleeves t-shirt instead and boom you have a summer mountaineering setup May I suggest you do a video about ice climbing and mountaineering ropes so we can exchange ideas about it
Fabien MATHIEU Nice! Yeah, it is great as a summer setup too! I switch the Arc’teryx Gamma LT soft shell jacket for my Black Diamond Alpine Start and leave the long johns and long sleeve as well for summer, but everting else is more or less the same 😄 Absolutely! I am actually researching for a video on ropes 😄
Sure thing! I have actually made a very regarding how to pick the right ice tool and the right crampons too. My preferred ice tools for steep ice climbing are the Grivel Tech Machine and for north faces in the Alps I climb with the Petzl Quark. My mountaineering axe is the Petzl Sumit Evo. For steep ice climbing I carry the Black Diamond Stinger crampon and for alpine climbing and general mountaineering the Black Diamond Sabretooh. And I actually just bought a pair of Petzl Leopard for ski mountaineeing :)
Hi, you sure that those pants are not the AR version? :D I was looking for them on arcteryx site and this thigh pocket looked just like on the AR version and not the LT one :)
Did you size up one for the atom and cerium? I know the cerium LT has a tight fit...Do you wear the atom over your soft shell when it’s cold or just as a stand alone?
I did not size up the Arcteryx Atom LT as I like a snug fit, and actually did the same with the Arcteryx Cerium LT, which I regret. It is simply too small, when I am already wearing a fleece and a shell. I usually wear the Atom LT as an extra middle layer, where the size is fine, but on warmer days I bring as my belay jacket, where I wear it on top of my shell, but then it is really tight. My Black Diamond Stance Belay parka is already quite big and I oversized that - but that is way too big, haha!
I would actually go for a bit of a snug and semi-tight fit, so ice screws and other gear does not get tangled in your clothing. On the other side you also need to have flexible clothing that you can move in :) So not too loose, not too tight.
Great starter guide! Good advice on the goretex pants, anyway wearing them is the best way to end up crying at the bottom of the fall because you ripped them open with your crampons (and they are $$$...)
I actually met a team last season in the Italian Dolomites, where one of the guys had just ripped his brand new pants because his crampons got stuck in them - so wearing gaiters is definitely a good choice 😄
I bought mine (tnf) on a sample sale they were 50 euro 😂😂
@@Nasogaa Nice!
A couple items I like that maybe some would be interested: Patagonia Nano Air hoody. I don’t know how they do it, but this thing regulates moisture and heat very well. It is designed to be “active insulation” and I find it replaces that a layer, as in it acts as a soft shell and insulator in one. In very wet conditions in Cogne last month, I wore a Norrona wool base with the Patagonia and a helly Hansen hard shell with pit zips open. This way I was dry, warm enough, but never sweaty. Additionally, my guide tipped me off on gloves: commercial fishing gloves, such as made by Showa. You can have fodrad or icke fodrad (use a thin liner) and they are truly watertight, and around 20 euros. I actually use these for my work on factory trawler, just didn’t think of it for ice climbing in wet conditions. Cheers!
wlcrutch great tip on the gloves!! Gotta try that 😄
Yeah, I have heard of that jacket! It sounds amazing. I really like the insulated part, and would definitely eliminate the mid-layer and then save weight. Thanks for the tip 😄
Thx for uploading. Looking forward to see more videos like this 💪🏻
Thank you so much, Ripperkon! I really enjoy your videos too 😄
Cragcloud nice to hear that 🙏🏻 Thank you
This is a great video. Thank you.
Thanks :)
Well done, Nice video!
Thank you 😄
If you are just starting out and don't want to spend a wild amount of money on gloves, check out working gloves, for example in a hardware store. Some come with insulation, they are super grippy and cheap. I know some guides that only work with these gloves.
That is actually a really good idea - and as you say the are usually much cheaper! Do you know how they would cope with the cold?
@@Cragcloud I was just wearing them in -2°C and snowfall and I have to say they are pretty nice. Obviously, not as warm wool mittens, but you keep a high amount of dexterity and agility in your fingers. I just did some photography with tripod and everything and any photographer/videographer will appreciate that it is even possible with gloves. For an explicit landscape photography trip, where you walk for hours it makes more sense to have very warm gloves and just take them off when shooting.
But back to ice climbing.
The pros:
- Amazing grip
- Cheap and easy to find
- High dexterity (I was wearing them while solving a jigsaw puzzle, so knots should not be an issue)
The cons:
- Not super warm
- Probably they won't last as long as the high quality equivalent, since the rubberised surface might wear off (I will let you know at the end of the season)
Conclusion:
In my opinion they are the best bang for the buck out there. If you are on a budget or you already spent all your money on outer layers, ice tools, crampons, boots, ropes and so on or maybe you just want to see if ice climbing is for you, then I can highly recommend these types of gloves. I am sure there are great differences in quality between different manufacturers.
@@julianohl7649 What about waterproofness? 😀 It definitely makes sense in terms of dexterity, so one don’t get gloves that are too thick and you can’t “feel” the ice tool 😄
@@Cragcloud So the fingers and palm are rubberised and hence totally water (and air) proof. This bit is not breathable at all. The back of the glove is only fabric and breathable, but not waterproof.
This design is pretty standard for these working gloves, I think.
Good solid advice. Thank you!
Thanks, Matthew 😄
Thank you very much .
Allow me to share my setup:
smartwool mountaineering socks
icebreaker boxer
icebreaker long john
Softshell pants (la sportiva alpine guide pants)
Long sleeves Icebreaker Oasis 200
Patagonia R1 pullover
Softshell jacket La Sportiva Albigna
Climbing gloves: BD Kingpin
Belay gloves: Hestra Army leather goretex mittens
A buff around the neck
Arcteryx bird toque
Just in case: Norrona falketind
Down Hood Jacket and Rab flashpoint jacket and a light balaclava
Sounds like a really good setup too
How does the Albigna jacket perform?
@@Cragcloud I like it a lot, its very light and packable, breath well and can take some rain/snow, the hood is a good fit too either on top of the helmet or under it (similar to the patagonia R1 pullover hoody)
What I like about this setup is that you just have to leave the beanie, the long John and the long sleeves thermal top and take an Icebreaker short sleeves t-shirt instead and boom you have a summer mountaineering setup
May I suggest you do a video about ice climbing and mountaineering ropes so we can exchange ideas about it
Fabien MATHIEU Nice! Yeah, it is great as a summer setup too! I switch the Arc’teryx Gamma LT soft shell jacket for my Black Diamond Alpine Start and leave the long johns and long sleeve as well for summer, but everting else is more or less the same 😄
Absolutely! I am actually researching for a video on ropes 😄
yea reverso atc
Hey, nice video. Would you might share your gear list in other video? Like, ice tool, harness etc.
Sure thing! I have actually made a very regarding how to pick the right ice tool and the right crampons too. My preferred ice tools for steep ice climbing are the Grivel Tech Machine and for north faces in the Alps I climb with the Petzl Quark. My mountaineering axe is the Petzl Sumit Evo. For steep ice climbing I carry the Black Diamond Stinger crampon and for alpine climbing and general mountaineering the Black Diamond Sabretooh. And I actually just bought a pair of Petzl Leopard for ski mountaineeing :)
Hi, you sure that those pants are not the AR version? :D I was looking for them on arcteryx site and this thigh pocket looked just like on the AR version and not the LT one :)
Actually, you are absolutely right! They are the AR version 😜
Did you size up one for the atom and cerium? I know the cerium LT has a tight fit...Do you wear the atom over your soft shell when it’s cold or just as a stand alone?
I did not size up the Arcteryx Atom LT as I like a snug fit, and actually did the same with the Arcteryx Cerium LT, which I regret. It is simply too small, when I am already wearing a fleece and a shell. I usually wear the Atom LT as an extra middle layer, where the size is fine, but on warmer days I bring as my belay jacket, where I wear it on top of my shell, but then it is really tight.
My Black Diamond Stance Belay parka is already quite big and I oversized that - but that is way too big, haha!
Do Scottish climbers need to wear more than underpants and t shirt ?
Haha!! True on that! I've actually climbed a few Scottish Winter routes - I would say, bring an extra pair of underpants! ;)
Hello, are baggy clothes ok for ice climbing?
I would actually go for a bit of a snug and semi-tight fit, so ice screws and other gear does not get tangled in your clothing. On the other side you also need to have flexible clothing that you can move in :) So not too loose, not too tight.
Thanks for the vid check out jottnar .com a UK copaney they have some really nice cothing I use them a lot
Hi Five Ten 5.10! Thank you 😄 I will check out that website 😄