How to Make a Square 4 Claw Collet
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- čas přidán 15. 10. 2019
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cbilton.creator-spring.com With this channel I share with you some of the methods and techniques I have learned over the previous 23 years as a professional Jeweller. I specialise in high end bespoke pieces made the old fashioned way by hand.
I wish to document everything I know and make accessible to everyone rare skills and techniques only usually taught in high security jewellers workshops.
In this video I give full instructions for making a square gate collet from start to finish the same way the professionals do it.
1:20. Turning up the metal
6:00. Folding up the collet
36:30. Soldering the collet up
38:07. Filing the collet
43:40. Fitting the stone
55.20. Cutting the daylight
1:12:02. Adding the claws
1:20:15. BONUS TOP TIP! How to make square wire with out a draw plate.
1:46:45. Finishing the collet
If you are considering following the video to make your own collet its essential you have a stone to make it for!
It does not matter what the stone is but I would recommend something quite large and cut with good symmetry. This makes the job easier to accomplish well.
There are many cut gemstones that can be bought for very little money. Low quality large Citrines, Topaz and Amethysts can be easily found for just tens of pounds.
I give instructions assuming you already have experience hand making jewellery with a good ability to solder, saw and file.
The channel has potential to grow in to a great archive of jewellers knowledge with your help.
With patrons support I will be able to offer far more information than I am currently able to.
With over 2 decades of knowledge gained in the jewellery trade working with some of the best diamond mounters in the UK I can train practitioners of jewellery making, up to and far beyond the skill level found in High Street jewellers workshops.
I have been lucky enough to have been taught by actual Bond Street shop model makers and my ambition is to share what I have learned through out my career to as many people as possible.
My vehicle to do this is the Diamond Mounter CZcams channel and now after nearly 1 year of uploading video guides, its time to take it up a level.
My ambition is to be able to make instructional videos with not just silver, but gold and platinum also. Some proper jewellers soldering equipment will enable me to create much more special pieces too! This will open up a whole new world of information I have to share.
There are many specific methods and techniques used for the different precious metals and knowledge about gemstones I can teach that will never enter my videos unless I am actually working with them.
If you may be interested in becoming a patron and supporting the channel to help it grow please click the link below to go to the Patreon website and find out about all the benefits that come with being a Diamond Mounter patron.
/ 5278612
There is now a new entry level tier which costs just £1 a month.
Its named the supporter tier which allows you to support the channel with out any substantial financial obligation. I will thank you personally on the next Diamond Mounter video uploaded!
I hope you will consider becoming a patron.
Thank you,
C.Bilton
I have been a professional jeweller and diamond setter for the last 30 years and that is an absolutey superb video and demonstration of handmaking jewellery. There is a depth of knowledge there that is hard to find nowadays. Well done to you.
Thanks so much! I endeavor to continuously improve my videos to make them easier to follow and understand for people who are new to making jewellery
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This is the first time I've seen you , I've been a jeweler off and on for 20 years, more off then on. I'm retired now and want to spend my time at the bench. Aside from incredible technique, the most important thing you taught me is PATIENCE , can't wait to see your other videos. You're incredible
Thanks so much! Im so happy to hear the videos are useful to people and appreciated.
All night every night I am watching and rewatching your videos. I am so thankful to you for sharing your extensive knowledge and beautiful skill with us all. Your a fantastic teacher!!
Thanks so much. You're helping the channel grow by doing that! You're very welcome I'm very grateful that the videos are helpful!
Antonmursid🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏✌🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩✌👌🙏💝
I have to agree with all the above. I run an Engineering fabrication business in Sydney, and make Jewellery as a hobby, love it! I have watched a lot of Videos on the Tube , but none as minutely instructional as these. You have taught me many little tricks, great work and thank you. Nothing like that good old English guilds training eh!
i have been a hobby jewelry maker and wanted to see if i could learn to make quality jewelry. I happened across your video and am very thankful I did! You are an AWESOME illustrator! Thank you for making this video. I would really like to see what casting is and see you finish this ring to explain the full making of setting a stone. Please continue making these types of videos, many of us appreciate them!
You are a true collet master. Seriously, some of the most beautiful I've ever seen. Now I know why. In fact, I'm pretty sure I found your channel through a search on how to do a claw setting collet. Thank you for the great instructional vids!
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Your work is precision, it's a pleasure t see this being taught. Lots of trash being taught on CZcams videos.
I've been looking for a video like this for a long time
J
I am glad I am not the only one who keeps dropping the piece. Thank you for your videos. They are superb and I enjoy them even if I already know how to do some of the things you show. It is somehow different seeing someone else doing the same thing I might do vs watching myself making the same piece. I have been creating jewelry for a long time now, but I honestly believe watching your videos has made my work much better. Because I always seem to remember important points you mention even if I know them already, they still come into my brain housing group when I am creating something. Thank you.
When making the videos I have to watch myself do things then explain what happened. There are many things I have done for years that I taught myself and have never been explained in words before. Thank you for watching!
@@DiamondMounter I have never been to a school or anything of that sort. I have taught myself through trial and error. Have messed up a bit of silver in my past. Still do even today now and again. Was making cullet yesterday like on your video for a ring for myself and the cullet exploded while soldering. My tweezers were just a bit to strong. haha. So had to remake it. Turned out excellent the second time. When I make something expensive I like make a mock of what I am making first out of copper, brass or whatever I have to sort any problems I might face as I get a little too confident sometimes. But that is how I taught myself. Don't make too many mocks today. But still a good idea when you are venturing into something you have not done before rather then having to put silver into the melting pot. Gold I just do not mess up. Too pricey. Thank you.
I hope people get your sense of humour!!! It makes it fun to watch, great video's, thank you
What a brilliant tutorial video. I usually make my settings by carving wax. However for my current ring commission I decided to do the shank in wax & challenge myself to make the setting in silver. Your step by step guide in this video is just what I was looking for. I'm not on CZcams very often so was delighted to have stumbled upon it. Having been a goldsmith for 20 years I am also embarking on bettering my setting skills, as like you I have used professional setters for some of my work up until now. I look forward to seeing you videos in this area. Thanks again!
Love the collar!! 🎉😉
Yo también soy de esos que mira tus videos cada noche antes de dormir 👏 gracias por compartir tu conocimiento.
Andrew! You absolute superstar!! I am so glad I found your video!! This way makes so much more sense and is far far easier. I Can’t thank you enough. Will be using this method and ditching the one I was taught from books and other YT channels. Louise 😊
Good work
Thank you for all you teach. Thiss assign was particularly wonderful!
Thank you you're welcome!
you have good talent keep up the good work
Thank you for your video!!!!
You are amazing thank you
Regarding the caliper issues, take it apart and clean the top edge with iso alcohol, also the inside aswell, had the same issue with an old one a while ago, ad after cleaning it worked a treat, just make sure to adjust the two skrews at the top equally.
This is brilliant, thank you.
If you're passionate about jewelry and want to learn more, I hope my channel can provide you with some helpful insights.
Good information .
If you like jewelry content, I will be glad if my channel will be useful to you.
Thanks
Great video - thanks for sharing
Thanks Chris for this great video. Ive sat down anf followed along the different steps to making the basic rectangle shape. This would have daunted me before but has definitely help me resolve the issues I would have encountered making them before. Marking the last angle before filing always eluded me from getting the corners equal. (at around 1hr 25mins in) I managed to square them with hist a. 3mm difference which I was easily able to adjust. I normally would just have carved this in wax because I wasn't confident enough but think I'll use this way from now on. Many thanks for your great lesson. I will make sure to donate to your Patreon account as these skills should be valued and appreciated.
Great! Yes trying things for the first time and especially when stretching your skill level and confidence is always daunting. Im glad you found the video useful!
I have been wanting to try out my metal working more and break into jewelry making as a hobby I've stumbled across your page and so grateful I did I have done a short ring makers course 7 weeks part time now moving up to fulltime study this year i watched the essential tools video and a few others but i really like the detail of this one it's getting me excited to get started with my training even more cheers brother
Thanks The channel is made for people like yourself. Please learn it all and take it further
How to do it the hard way, huh? 🤯🤣🤣🤣. I love it!!! 💗💗💗
informative
Wow
AND THE BEST WAY, IT AINT ALWAYS TO ACT NASTY-GURU!!!!
Chris, you mention having only medium solder while making this. Could you not alloy up your medium solder by adding some fine silver and drawing it out (in a pinch)? I LOVE this video, answered SO many questions on HOW!! Thanks so much.
The more I think about this, the more I understand. The reason you use the circle is in order to create the taper on the collet. That's brilliant, but I need to know what determines the diameter of the circle you create, in relation to the size of the collet and how do you make this if working in gold, or platinum?
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I heard somebody once that ask a question. Do casted pieces of jewelry “clones” have souls. Lol it’s never left my mind on how impactful that question was
How would you set up and create a Colette for a trillion stone?
One question. Would you use the same method to set an Asscher cut diamond or would you define the corners of the collet specific to the angels of the stone? Also, what thickness of sheet are you using for the collet? I am assuming 1mm. I am really glad you are making these videos. This particular kind of knowledge is rare. Ok, wait, one more question... I am not sure I understand the theory of using the circle for the collet. Why not cut the corners from a flat sheet? Not criticizing, genuinely curious. Thanks,
I really like your jewelers saw. What is the brand and are they still available?
Yeah its cool right! Iv had it a long time the brand is Grobet from Switzerland.
You can buy them still and theyre not expensive.
www.hswalsh.com/product/grobet-swiss-adjustable-jewellers-piercing-saw-frame-ts124
How do you keep the tweezers from being a heat sink when you are soldering the claws onto the collet? Loved the video! Thank you so much! This is one of the best videos I've seen on making a collet.
Thank you check out the playlist on my channel called Collets. The tweezers do draw some heat but the collet is made of thin bits of metal so I dont have problems soldering.
@@DiamondMounter thank you...will do.
@@christinaharmon8778 просто начните с нагревания пинцета
Hi, you mentioned not to it this way for gold, as it wastes a lot so what would you do for gold colet then.
I'm only about 15 minutes in, here, a year after you posted this,
but I'm wondering how you decided upon the diameter of the circle from which you formed your basket.
Also
I'm trying to donate to your Patrion because I feel you should be paid for this good work, but the link seems to be having trouble loading; I will continue to work on it.
The circle doesn't need to be an exact curvature. I just make all mine similar to whats in the video. Although something to keep in mind is the tighter the curve the more steep the sides of the collet will be. Making a full circle is unnecessary you only need half at the most usually. Oh thanks so much for offering to become a patron! I will go to the website now and check the links i need
O
L
where is a good site to buy tools and supplies?
Could you or someone make a video, where the stone is settled in a mount without these horrible teeth around the stone? How is those small stones routed on ring in small caves without needing to use a teeths around the stone corners? By heating the edges to above the stone tables?
I suggest you watch our video, maybe you will find something interesting there for yourself.
Well done tutorial. Thank you! Loosely related-how do you use the extra slots you’ve incorporated into the right side of your bench peg? (Apologies if you’ve already answered this elsewhere.)
Thanks! Yes I mention them quite often theyre for tweezers. I hold things in tweezers then slot them in. Convenient for soldering
@@DiamondMounter I’ve never worked with a setup like that before, but I’ve heard it’s a popular setup. Curious-do you need to take any special safety precautions? Curios because I’d like to try it out.
I just stumbled onto your channel and I’m enjoying it. Sincere thanks for so freely sharing your expertise! ❤️
What brand of files do you recommend for a beginner?
Id imagine any files being sold by a reputable jewellery tool shop should be fine!
Muchas gracias por compartir la bendición del Padre del Hijo y del Espíritu Santo estén en tu vida y todos los tuyos gracias buen día bendiciones como se hace soldadura para platino gracias 😅😅😅😊😊😊😊
Why you rotate the bite around the head?
Great video. I cringe everytime you throw your files into that mini-hammock though.
Sorry lol
What is that u use to hold the gem?
I believe it might be a blue tack
The lady that taught me silversmithing would tell you to get rid of binding wire and she only told you once, or you were outta there.
if you are making more than one making a full circle may not be a waste.
Здравствуйте, такое ощущение что ваш учитель из России.. МШХР?
Necesito. Hacer. Candongas. Con. Esmeraldas. TALLA. Prince. La. Muestra esta en. Care. Pero. La idea. Es llevar. La misma. Línea. Pero. En. Uñas
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Antonmursid🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏✌🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩✌👌🙏💝
I would rather you make a long video than skip steps so I'm confused. Thank you.
De
Nice hairdo
Very long
You said it No Soul
Thanks
Thank you Judy!