I Took Apart My SVT Lightning Engine & Found Something VERY Unexpected! MYSTERY ENGINE!
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
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In this video, I tear down my Ford F-150 SVT Lightning engine and found something very unexpected. The mystery of this engine continues as I reveal its history and we dig deep to find date codes and updated parts! Enjoy!
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Ok where are my F-150 guys? Whatcha got?
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This video looks so good in 4k!
I have a 02 true blue lightning as well. The vacuum when not under boost is insane so mine was full of oil as well. Now I just empty a full catch can every tank of fuel.
hair is for bitches
I'm not mad at the roasts of the 5.4, I'm a coyote guy, haven't had a problem, maintenance stuff is easy too
!997 4.6 truck here. Swapped a set of PI heads onto a non-PI block and rotating assembly. Next step is to toss the PI intake on and eventually a clutch fan swap to electric.
Couple things I'll share some input on, been around these trucks for a long time now. Delete that line going from the back of the lower intake that T's into the pcv, it pressurizes the pcv system, and is not helping with the oil your seeing, plus as you saw, it's a major potential vacuum leak and a pain to change in the truck if that happens. So most plug it (the lower intake) with a 3/8 npt plug fitting, and get rid of that line. Then run one line up from your pcv in the valvecover to a catch can (JLT is good), then from catch can to plenum, and you should be good there!
Sounds about spot on with detonation and making heat. Cooling mods and tune needs to be on point when changing the crank pulley for more boost. I'd at least run a larger heat exchanger (afco is a good one) paired with a larger intercooler tank (LFP megatank is my preference here), and some nice 3/4 lines (get rid of the stock metal intercooler lines, very restrictive). Then of course the right plugs ( ngk tr6 most likely, but get with whoever tunes it) and a proper tune from a Lightning specific tuner. JDM engineering is really good with these trucks, highly recommend talking to them about a tune.
If you have any questions feel free to dm me on Instagram or Facebook at "DebtLife projects" I can at least point you to some OG Lightning guys and vendors if I can't help ya myself lol ⚡️
He's right Alex. I have a 04 lighting, once you start pumping the HP up the temperature problems start creeping up.
Great comment. Good stuff to mention to a non ford guy. All these upgrades/changes are spot on. Also I’m assuming there are EGR delete kits for these trucks. Is that something you’d recommend to Alex as well? Any specific company that makes a solid kit for that delete?
You sir love vehicles and love what you're doing. Carry on!
@@xxrealdealxx11 EGR delete is pointless on a modular engine and most of the tuners nowadays won't give you an EGR delete tune due to EPA
@@neilbrown82 wrong. Egr delete is one of the best ways to clean up the engine bay and make spark plug changes 1000 times easier. Not to mention it keeps the hot exhaust gases out of the blower/intake tract. Lightning specific tuners have no problem tuning accordingly, seeing as any mod goes against the epa, and they are just about all modded to some extent.
This is literally the only channel on CZcams that makes me sit for 40 minutes and watch religiously the content. I've been subscribed since the original E55 AMG days and saw this channel grow. I will try to like and comment more often because i really think this channel is underrated and should be way bigger. Keep it up guys and thank you to make my days better!
Thanks bro!!
Agree, it’s down to editing and the way Alex explains everything, his banter.
Allow me to also recommend M539 restoration channel
Agreed!
I was just about to recommend Sreten (M539 Restorations) too!
Ford had pretty good timing guides in these engines. Mine had 241k miles on the original timing components and the guides looked just like yours. While I was in there, I replaced the oil pump with a Melling standard volume/pressure which gave me 80psi at cold idle with 5w-20 oil and almost 250k miles
Also, BE SURE to replace the O rings in the coolant crossover tube in the valley. They're known to fail and you'll have to pull the whole intake off again
With all the oil in the intake, I cannot believe how clean the valves were. Even with port injection. Good to see Pete and keep up the great content!
Given the massive amount of fuel it uses the valves should be clean
the grime was too lubricated to stick to anythingxD
Direct injection gets dirty valves. Not port. U got that backwards bud
@@hyper8545 with a failed pcv and the way the intakes are setup on the 5.4, even port injection wont keep them that clean. I've done headgaskets on this exact kind of motor and you get pretty bad carbon buildup on the head runners. Valves still stay ok....but not brand new like in video. I suspect a (very frequent) intake manifold gasket leak since the coolant travels through that other assembly that goes to the thermostat. Very common problem and probably exasperated by the head gasket getting blown + boost.
@@frjhracing When I took apart a 4.6 that I lost to a rear main seal leak on a Mercury Grand Marquis LSE with 165k miles the cylinder heads looked brand new when we completely took the block apart. I have heard the same from fleet owners who take in beat up police cars to run as taxis.
Based on your perceived surprise at "Made In Canada" stamping and in case you weren't aware, the SVT Lightning was built exclusively in Canada.It's birthplace was at the Oakville Truck Assembly Plant until 2004 and in 2006 the complex was retooled to produce the Edge, MKX and Flex and the truck assembly plant was gutted and refurbished into a high-tech paint facility. Just a bit of Ford history for you.
I live in Oakville and remember seeing dozens of these parked in the South Parking Lot at the plant near Maplegrove Drive back in their day.
@@hotrod1984s10 I too, remember them well but from a bit closer. I used to work at the old central office building and saw them being built when I went to the plant on business. It was a sad day when they opted to close the truck plant and turn it into a pain facility. When you mentioned the south parking lot, were you thinking of the main shipping area at the west end of the complex where the rail cars came and went?
i'd plan on a complete set of ARP head studs, and a ARP engine bolt kit. Also, a complete engine gasket kit is usually cheaper than pieceing out the stuff you need.
I recently removed and cleaned the intercooler on my 01’ lightning, it was bad pretty much caked all the way through with grime. After soaking in purple power, cleaning with parts cleaner, then switching over to super purple power and brake cleaner I still had just black oil grime caked in there. Went and got a can of foaming ac condenser coil cleaner and that stuff did the trick! Followed up the brake cleaner and it turned out looking brand new, and the increase throttle response afterwards was great.
You know a car youtuber really works on his cars when he has oil all over his face. That's why we love this channel.
In the 90s, pushrod engines were knocked in the automotive media, and Ford went full bore on overhead cam. But just the fact that an LS is so compact, much simpler and lighter. Win win win
As a Crown Victoria P71 owner I'm here to tell you for the ignition coils on these Ford engines you absolutely want a 7mm flex head ratcheting wrench to get those coils off. That will get you through the driver side, the passenger side if you're doing it in the vehicle you're gonna wanna disconnect the Evap purge lines, the PCV and remove the fuel pressure regulator and just use a 7mm socket with a u-joint on extensions.
I also find the plug holes on these engines are prone to getting garbage around the plug so the socket won't go all the way down around the plug.
ARP head studs would likely be a very worthwhile upgrade.
That head gasket is a physical representation of my brain when trying to learn something new 😂 awesome video Alex!
I'm in the 63 percentile with subscribers.
I vote to shoot for 2,000 hp so you can rent a trailer from UHaul.
Everyone needs a Peter when working on cars.
Hey now, give yourself more credit than that!
@@LegitStreetCars maybe put a torque wrench on the head bolts and check the torque on each bolt first
I'd bet most head gaskets fail for them not being torqued properly
Also it depends on what day of the week, what time of day, etc.....when they are torqued on the assembly line; because on Monday they ate hung over, Friday they are ready to go party so Tuesday is probably the only day you'd want one, because on Wednesday hump day they are thinking what to do the next weekend imho 😁
Having worked on engines since the early 60's, I am still amazed with how much crap has to be unbolted to get to the real heart of the engine. Good luck on the reassembly 🙂 I myself would go the full route with the engine, send the block out, get the heads done too. Blown head gaskets generally indicate the possibility of a warped head.
This is not that bad compared to my 2.0t ecoboost that looked meh to me im used to post 2009 4 and 6 cylinders
I have a Melling high volume in my 5.4L. It's been doing fine for the past 30k miles. FordMakuloco recommends them as well. I'd ARP stud the heads on any supercharged Ford.
Cool, thanks!
@@LegitStreetCars btw, i think Fordmakuloco is also in Chicago. Maybe he'd be down for a collaboration
@@baitse7676 that what i was thinking he a master with these
Huge Collab potential. He's the best Ford mechanic around.
@@baitse7676 hes in the southwest burbs, really far LOL
Alex, Peter, and team, I should be cleaning my house for Mother’s Day tomorrow, but I’m watching this very detailed tear down video. Love all the details. This is becoming a Saturday tradition for me. Thanks!
Did you get the cleaning done tho?
@@_-KOEN-_ not yet. Working on airplane now. 😂
Back in like 08, I owned an 04 cobra that needed the engine rebuilt. I remember taking it apart, and thinking how complicated everything seemed. Now these motors are so straight forward, especially with how tech heavy all the new stuff is
Totally agree!. I've been wrenching since 2008, so most of the engines I work on are DOHC, VVT, direct injection, turbo, etc...I recently had to pull the cylinder head on my 2003 Mini Cooper S - 1.6L supercharged I4 SOHC, no VVT, port injection. It was refreshing to work on such a simple engine compared to what I work on everyday. It was the easiest cylinder head I've ever had to pull.
Peter is just always in a good mood. Love the extra jokes that come when working with a friend
Since you are so torn into that thing I would see if they make a master bushing kit for that truck. Anytime I have done it on older vehicles like that it has made a world of difference in the feel of how it drove. The master bushing kit should have bushings for everything on the whole vehicle you just use what you want.
I am in the middle of doing an Eaton swap on my 2004 Mercury Marauder and even though I work at Ford, some of those small parts are impossible to get. Any of the TTY fasteners may seem like a trifle but it was $89 for 10 blower bolts. All that starts to turn into HUNDREDS and pretty soon the budget is shot in the hoohoo. That was me that ran your OASIS. I am glad it had some info for you.
I’m Eaton swapping my 99 Cobra. Still sourcing everything, almost there. God, it is expensive.
You can get non TTY bolts from ARP. I've reused my supercharger bolts several times. Never had an issue in the years I have used them. Lots of guys do this.
I work for Ford to, and I was pricing intake bolts for a 4.2 v6 and with my discount they were $160. Stuff isn't cheap anymore.
Where can I follow your progress on the swap?
Do a catch can. Oil can cause destination also. I also recommend sending injectors out to be cleaned and flowed. Get a bigger heat exchanger for the inter cooler side. Consider head studs-more boost, more pressure.and, put a matching set of coils on it. Different spark output can affect the tune
Or oil separators. You don't have to empty them and most of the oil makes its way back into the crankcase. However, they probably don't catch quite as much oil as a catch can. Still much better than doing nothing though.
I’m in for the lightning videos
Alex- why does this truck with blown headgaskets (eating coolant) have such clean valves?!
Also Alex: Today on legit street cars we are going to pour water into the intake to clean the valves
Long tubes with an EGR delete, a closed loop catch can setup and some blue Ford Racing valve covers really transform the look of the engine bay in these things.
It's been said that 450Hp at the wheels is the limit for the stock connecting rods. A larger crank blower pulley, ported heads (or TFS heads) and ported blower, headers and a proper tune will get you there. Just might think about getting a set of forged rods.
enjoyed and loved every moment of this tear down.
looking forward to the next episode.
I have an 01 expedition my wife bought along time ago, it has the 5.4L Triton and yes they are terrible to work on.
I've been subscribed since the first amg video with the gold wrap and green accents. Don't know how long that is but Ive watched every video since!
Also live in the south bend area of Indiana. Would love to meet you someday.
Replace timing guides and tensioners, reuse the chains since they are broken in and actually smoother than new ones. Oil pump is great from the factory, leave it alone.
Factory style head bolts are ok but I'd highly recommend some ARP bolts. Not only are they stronger but they just require a torque number and not a crazy torque and angle sequence.
Alex, I’m subscribed AND consistently watch your vids. Do I get a gold star?? 😁
Glad the Lightning is getting the attention she deserves. I’m not a Ford guy but that truck is certainly clean and deserving of the attention 🙂
You get 2 gold stars!
But no free merch ?
I've noticed something with this engine that will help you during reassembly. The chains each have 2 dark links, one directly opposite of the other. That dark lonk goes to the timing dot on the crank sprocket and the other goes to the timing mark on the cam. Literally impossible to mess up timing alignment and I see that bank one chain was like 10 teeth off from the dark like (cam and crank probably are in time) but why skip the dark links literally made to make timing an easy job!
Come on y'all, let's get this man to a 1mill subs. He clearly has earned it...
That first HG failure looks like acidic coolant rather than a combustion chamber problem. It also looks to have some inter-bore failures aka leak between cylinders, likely due to overheating.
As always, an amazing video, not only from a technical point of view!👍😃 Your kind of humor tops it off! However, the cylinder head gasket gave me the impression that it had "eaten away". Can this be? In my opinion, an indication of this would be the badly rusty coolant from a previous episode. And that in turn leads me to conclude that the car was driven without accurate antifreeze for a long time (by the previous owner!). And since water serves as the electrolyte, the stainless steel of the head gasket and the aluminum or cast iron as a kind of anode "serves" -> the ions migrate and slowly dissolve the head gasket. Good… then it should have looked like that in several places. My theory "flakes" there... 😉 In any case, it looked less like a problem with the mixture preparation and/or ignition for me. But, you will surely enlighten us soon...! 😃 Thank you very much for your videos and charming manner, and every conceivable success for your channel! Greetings from Stuttgart
That can definitely add to the degradation.
Back in high school, I used to be a porter at a body shop. Over a decade later, one of the vehicles that's stuck with me for a long time was a 2nd gen lightning with a Whipple charger. It sounded bonkers and I was just sure it ripped
Taking about Ford’ negatives and positives reminded me of the Panther platform blend door actuator ! Like c’mon ford you could have just placed it another inch further to the right to access it ! Great videos ! Love watching them and following !
"This ain't no LS"... said every GM guy that ever worked on a Ford.
Always replace the water pump when doing a big tear down like this... its ussually less then $40 and when that one DOES fail, you will hate life pulling it all off again... anything that fails common like that, just spend extra money and replace while you are in it like this.
Use the 2004 navigator pump
As a retired mechanic myself i find your show a great watch thankyou 👍🏻
I had a 2003 lightning and it was an amazing truck. If I was you I would put a set of upgraded rods in it if you are planning on increasing boost. The rods are the weak link in that motor. One last thing if you like supercharger whine get the Magnum Power supercharger for it. Not sure if they still make it but I had one on mine and it would scream like crazy.
@0:43. Actually have to remove blower to get to that fixed with the cab on
I've done it with the blower on, it's not fun, but it's possible lol
@@DebtLife_Projects yeah I have big hands and getting behind the blower wasn’t going to happen lol
Another banger video from Alex, love your videos man✨
Keep up the amazing work🙏🏾
Thanks brother! Appreciate that
@@LegitStreetCars Amazing feeling to have your favourite CZcamsr reply to you ✨🙏🏾
Hello again Alex, my best performance advice is this, get the heads ported, good valve job, blower ported, throttle body half shaft mod, and long tube headers. I’d keep the stock cams. Good tune when you’re done. Should be good for another 130-160 hp maybe more, stock idle and no drive ability issues, smooth idle. At that point you have a hybrid, you’re burning rubber and gas!!!! Thanks for the great vids, John Knarr.
Had oil residue all inside my intake on my NA Mach 1 too. Put a catch can on both sides after the rebuild to stop that.
Great content. Always enjoy watching your vids and the Lightning is a beaut.
Did anyone else familiar with the 5.4/6.8L engines cringe for those threads when he was removing the plugs with an impact? I know they were already broken loose, but I treat these heads, and those threads, like a baby with a skull helmet on. Very very gently.
I broke them loose by hand first
It doesn't matter if you break them loose by hand first, you still don't use an impact to remove them the rest of the way. That still will destroy the threads. This goes for any engine period. There's some things you can save time on but spark plugs and the threads are delicate.
I'm sure that's the book answer, 'never disassemble using an impact', good luck getting EVERYONE to follow that especially the people with years and years of experience.
I'm not saying it's right, wrong, or anything other. It's his truck to with as he wishes, he showed the threads after doing it (when counting), they were fine and he has been a mechanic for a LONG time.
For me, I own an '01 Excursion with the 6.8l (same thread issue) and it felt akin to a scene in a horror movie where you are certain that someone is going to die but they don't lol. Everyone is fine and nothing happened. I was yelling at my TV, "No, don't Don't!"
Girlfriend asked what was wrong, I said "Nothing, everything is fine".
Her reply, "Car stuff?"
@@merlin12volt it's wrong. He makes videos showing others how to work on cars...teaching people that it's okay to use an impact to remove plugs is wrong. He got lucky, but I've also been working on cars for many many years and I've had to tap and use helicoils so many times from people using impacts to remove plugs. I don't own any power tools because I honest to God prefer to do it with hand tools. And I've never fucked a thing up using hand tools. I've used power tools before, but I prefer hand tools.
Seeing those timing chain guides makes me wonder why on Earth BMW and the other German automakers can't just do the same thing. It's clearly not difficult.
And in BMW's case, same with valve seals.
It's probably to make things as light and low friction as possible for emissions. It's always the damn emissions...
The 3.5 Ecoboosts say hi. lol. I know it’s not an issue with the guides per se, but let’s not act like Ford should be giving master classes in how to engineer robust timing chain systems.
@@jae9843 Yes, but the BMW issues seem to be rampant. Meanwhile, this 20-year old supercharged Ford seems to be fine.
But don't get me started on the spark plug threads...
Ford knows how to f things up, just look at the Land Rover/Jaguar 5L V8 which had plenty of ford involvement, they used aluminum and steel on the tensioner which wear. Which wouldn't be so bad if they didn't have chain issues with the 4L that were corrected with the 4.2/4.4. I personally think they just don't care it's not a matter of not being able to fix the design but rather the only priority is that the engine survives it's warranty period. They only address the defects when the warranty claims start hence the 4 thread spark plugs. Personally in the case of BMW I think their issues stem from the maintenance recommendations and questionable plastics.
In your previous video, looking at the back of the head you can see 'PI' stamped into it indicating you do have the 'performance improved' or 2003+ heads (at least the driver side we looked at)
Also open up the coolant passage in the head gaskets. Just .20 in. More flow lower temp. Great for added boost and nitrous.
6:48 I lost it when he said " say hello to my little friend" also love the vids alex ive been watch since u got the caprice and ive been watching ever since, keep up with the good work!
I love your videos!
Thanks!
The way I understand it the 2003 three valve motor were the start of the bad valve guides and tensioner issues. The earlier ones were good.
Definitely stay away from the 3V 5.4. I'm a Ford guy and I don't even mess with them already been threw it
Only %37 subscribe rate is because of smart tvs. People are watching youtube on them, but no one ever signs in! Love the channel.
Go with a melling high volume high output for the oil pump. It's a HUGE difference on the 3v, I'm sure whatever they have on the 2v has to be amazing as well. The guides were always pretty good, but the tensioners have had ups and downs over the years.. the 3v's were way worse..
Alex, I want you and Peter to know how much respect I have for the amount of work you are putting into this build. That I am beginning to think that maybe the Mercedes heads rebuild was simply 'practice'. LoL..
Great video! Incredible project! Remarkable work ethic!! 👍
Great content. No misleading titles or intros. No BS merchandise plugs. Enjoy watching how your builds evolve from start to finish. Keep it up.
Calling out the bad design and good designs is good. Tells a lot of how the process works in the engineering department.
Not hitting Subscribe and thumbs up when you watch regularly is a pretty shitty thing tto do if you ask me! Go support the channels you like, a sub and thumb up isn't that much to ask tbh! 🤔
Would it have been easier to pull the engine? ..instead of removing the cab?
No this way easier.
No. The oil filter and cooler hit the frame
@@thegrimesreviews826 you do know those come off
@@thefordmaniac yes but you have to remove the engine mount to do it. Pain in the butt While in the truck
@@thefordmaniac I think so as well
I wish I was doing this. I find doing mechanic work so relaxing IF, and I stress IF, the shop is huge, clean, and organize to the nines.
Alex is a legit mechanic. The speed he can
Get full tear downs done is pretty incredible
I probably would not recommend comparing an a GM LS push rod engine, with an Overhead cam Ford engine.
Yeah they're so much worse compared to an LS.
I know you are fixing the 🌩 ⚡️ but what about the rear window for the Alpina? I don't believe you have ever waited that long for window.
You should just Ls the lightning you would have been done already!
The window is in stock. I'm fixing all the control units before the window goes back in. There are 10 that got wet so trying to fix them all on a budget
@@LegitStreetCars 10 wow that's not easy by any means & they probably have to be all programmed by vin code as well sadly like gm.
Be safe
Awesome video. I've been watching you for a while. I have an '03 E55 AMG and I'm currently putting a slightly modded 2001 Lightning motor and trans in my '92 single cab short bed F150 so this vid is perfect timing. I did the Crown Vic front suspension swap and I'm running the Crown Vic rear with 3.27 posi. It should come in about ~600-800 lbs lighter than a stock Lightning so it'll be a fun ride. Can't wait to see what you are going to do with the truck. Take care.
While I did have a Lightning with piston and combustion chamber damage, zero oil in the intake without a catch can. Plug changes were not hard, frankly I liked working on it the 7 years of ownership. Badass engine when cammed and ported.
I own 1998 F150. Nice truck. HATED changing coils and plugs. You're absolutely right.
Should get a Melling high volume pump, that engine was definitely maintained with oil changes, spotless inside. Definitely worth the work you’re doing. FordTechMakuloco has a video on timing the 5.4 2v very helpful.
Love this truck love the color SVT vehicles are really cool. Great content man.
i like your channel cuz you actually fix the cars... unlike those channels that just show what the problem MIGHT be and never get around to fixing them~
Very familiar with this truck as I've owned five of them. Two new, and three used. All of them cherished and enjoyed. Lightnings are very special and you have the color I've always loved, yet never owned...I have some custom SVT Lightning mats in my garage that I bought in a group buy back in the day if you're interested. They are pretty much perfect.
This channel should be HUGE! Thanks so much for the fantastic content!!!
Did my headgaskets on my 2001 150 with an aftermarket roots supercharger at 80k in garage with cab on. Not horrible at all. 500 in parts at the time. Truck has 270k now still running strong. Great vid
Great video! It’s amazing how something so simple can cause such a big problem! It was good to see that the engine overall is in good condition! I look forward to watching you put it back together!
Coming from a Ford 6.0L owner, I agree with switching to studs as mentioned. You don't want to do your work a second time.
i do love how you just get right to the work without telling me your life story and trying to be comedian. i do love that so heres my like. i been subscribed
I don't know much about cars, but I've always loved watching videos about working on them. Subscribed
Alex that was a chronic issue with the triton F-150, blown head gasket (ALWAYS) the right side back corner. Have replaced hundreds of them when I worked at the Ford dealer in Idaho. You are on the right path! Don't let anyone tell you that it is easier to do it with the cab on! It's not!! Even the dealers figured out real quick that taking the cab off on the F-150 and Expeditions was the way to do the job in the least amount of time and save the Tech a lot of headache.
.
Thank you for the simple explanations of complex problems. Love the tear down for a shade tree mechanic like myself.
It's neat to see a modern interpretation of the SOHC 427 from the 1960s. Lots of stuff to be modern and emissions friendly. To have power and clean emissions is a modern marvel.
Plug the turkey pan, 1 catch can for each valve cover… EGR delete while your at it. Get your spacers for the plenum and lower intake…
I so wish I had the time and the money to do a full rebuild of my 06 Ram 5.7 Hemi. It has 300K miles on it. The motor has never been touched except regular maintenance. Watching your videos is so satisfying.
Fantastic video Alex. Those 40mins flew by watching it. Can’t wait for the next one. 👍🏻
Just subbed....just a tip, replace the coolant tube that comes out of the rear of the water pump in the valley. Also, 24ft-lbs on the spark plugs and they won't come loose again.....Been using that torque on all 2V engines for years and never had one come back for loose or blown plugs. BTW contrary to what some say, the 2V engines are actually pretty decent for longevity.
Alex change the oil pump sprocket with a MMR one also port and polish heads do bigger cams, and also do the gt500 supercharger plate adapter.
I would recommend upgrade the oil pump to a melling M360HV. That what I used on my 5.4L Ford F-150.
Yup definitely 👍
Alex "just supercharge it" Palmeri is some type of automotive super hero.
Learned the hard way one time about locking the cams in place, lol. Did it on a friend's Subaru who couldn't afford to have her mechanic do her timing service. Forgot that could happen but fortunately just happened to have my eyes in the perfect position to see what they both did, and sure enough, I got lucky and was able to twist them back into place and there was no issue.
10:22 In that expensive tool box of yours, there is a item known as a 'wrench'. These can be used when a socket won't fit.
Amazing wow, I sat and I watched, can't wait to see the reassemble....thanks for this...
Also to add to the timing guides situation. Alot of the cause for the guides breaking are from lack of maintenance and improper oil viscosity. Those tensioners will add more or less tension than what they're designed for. So thicker weight oil will cause slop in chains causing them to slap against those plastic arms and lower weight oil or oil that people believe they never need to change out after 5k-10k miles (or more) becomes diluted from gas getting into oil while sitting at idle (happens to every engine) or over time it breaks down and when then engine is revving the oil pump can pump that oil faster causing tensioners to add to much tension and making the chain(s) to tight and results in broke guide.
Oil dilution is also what causes the pcv valves to coat the intake manifolds. One thing to add with the thinned out oil causing the tensioner add more tension is it pushes the plastic guide against the Chain to the point that it snaps and typically it won't be noticeable until your chain stretches out and you can start hearing the chain rattle against timing cover. That's why it's important to change timing components after noticing it. I try in the nicest way to get everyone to understand they are the faults in their own vehicles due to lack of maintenance and not Ford. (not talking about the you who published the video because you bought it like that) but just because you or the next person thinks that oil is too expensive and that by changing at the maximum interval rate, you're keeping up with maintenance as listed in manual isn't always true. Those who idle the engine all the time will have higher oil dilution than someone with same engine and oil brand/viscosity, that doesn't let their engine idle alot. Meaning if you let engine idle alot then you must follow the severe service schedule in the owners manual and/or the minimum length of time/mileage to prolong engine and components. This is another reason to consider full synthetic as it doesn't break down as fast and the main reason why they promote "prolongs engine life" over conventional or synthetic blend. So instead of pointing fingers at Ford saying it's their fault, maybe take into consideration how long these neglected engines (and the severity of how neglected they are) and actually realize that ford did put alot of effort into engines that can take that kind of abuse/neglect and still get ya 250k-300k miles and if you can diss it then you sure can thank em equally.
This makes my 2010 5.4 Triton seem easy to work on
This is turning out to be an awesome series
Pretty sure MMR makes some nice billet guides and upgrade chains for these motors. Might be worth taking a look at what you can get for them. Also a billet rear main seal if I remember correctly
replace the head bolts with ARP head studs instead of the OEM spec torque to yield bolts. I believe that would be your best option if you want to avoid blowing out any more head gaskets. At least that's what I think.
A great upgrade would be a set of TFS cylinder heads, a set of cams along with the CNC porting of the blower. Just getting the better heads will solve the spark plug issue.
Of course, ARP needs a call.
I'd do everything so that extra boost wouldn't be needed
Having rebuilt this engine myself you don't really need the valve holder tool if that one keeps being a pain. When putting the chains back on you can have a friend spin the cam slightly with a wrench while you put the chains on. They only rotate 4-5 degrees once the chain is off, not enough to cause piston contact with a valve
Good to know
I replaced the 5.4 in my 02 Supercrew 2 years ago. I replaced it with a 03 Superduty 5.4, replaced the timing set, oil and water pumps, headbolts and head gaskets, and all seals and sensors. Well, the head bolts and gaskets I did twice, significantly over torqued the head bolts. So I used new bolts and gaskets after straight edging the heads to make sure I hadn't warped them. For the record, the over torqued bolts were 1/8" longer after my mistake.
I was very surprised to see all cylinders on both blocks still had gorgeous crosshatching from factory honing. Benefit to the Superduty version of the 5.4 versus the standard F150, forged crankshaft. Maybe, someday I might consider a supercharger or a turbo. mild boost only. (So I keep telling myself!!!)
Anxious to see you finish this! PS... Must be nice to have a lift to get the cab out of the way. I did it the hard way, through the top... I'll add, I am the original owner of this truck, bought new in 02.
Love the break down . Recommend replacing all service part in water pump oil pump etc
VERY surprised an experienced chap, like yourself, didn't drain the block before pulling the heads - saves a lot of mess and oil contamination issues that may comprimise the oil change you make after reasembly and before starting it.
I'm getting closer and closer to arriving at college and LSC videos are such an entertaining part of this grueling journey, giving something to look forward to every time I'm working and studying. Thank you for touching the lives of 706,000 people everyday, Alex.
That rubber hose/elbow behind the intake used to have a recall back in the mid 2000's, trust me it was a huge pain to get too and ford only paid 3 or 4 tenths of an hour to change it!!!