Intro to the MoonBoard: Tips for Beginners by Ben Moon
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2024
- With unique holds specifically designed to train power, tension, finger strength and footwork on insecure moves, the MoonBoard is a great tool to improve your climbing. But it can be tricky to know where or how to start when you're first trying the MoonBoard. So here's what we'll cover.
00:30 When to Start Climbing on a MoonBoard
01:31 MoonBoard Warm-ups
02:20 Choosing Problems
02:39 Benchmarks
03:06 Tactics
04:38 Session Duration
04:55 Finding Beta
05:30 Recommended Problems
With over 120,000 problems covering grades 6A+ (V3) to 8B+ (V14), join the largest community of board climbers in the world and use benchmarks to test yourself and track your progress.
Download the MoonBoard app: www.moonboard.com/moonboard-app
Get your own MoonBoard with our DIY kits: moonclimbing.com/training-equ...
Shop Moon Clothing: moonclimbing.com/clothing.html - Sport
This video should have been out 10 years ago. And the app should have been updated about 5 years ago
We had our own 60 degree "moonboard" style wall, 20 years ago. Best training. Everything on real rock felt easy after it. Serious finger, pinch, core, torso and all around power gains.
Hands down one of the best tools out there to build fingerstrength. Great video!
I have fallen in love with the MoonBoard concept back in 2013 and finally had a dream come true of my own MoonBoard in 2022. I also find the differences between the 25 & 40 (on the 2017 set at least) to be quite refreshing. They feel different in more than just difficulty.
Just started training on the moonboard couple weeks ago. I've learned how tough a V1 or a V2 can be. Every week I'm now working for 30 to 40 minutes on five to six problems (v1 to v3), and slowly I'm starting to feel the progress. At the beginning I've failed most of the V1 issues, but now I'm able to solve at least half of them, and for the others I'm able to perform the single movements. Great training tool in addition to the normal bouldering training.
thank you for the video
Is there any update planned for the app? It's quite unintuitive from a user perspective.
Also, are there more benchmarks coming? There's tens if not hundreds of thousands of climbs, and maybe 5-6 benchmarks per grade?
Thanks for offering such a standardised way to climb!
Registered to test the app and i find it pretty ok, considering the plethora of options and functionality. The only confusing thing is that when you are applying filters there is no Apply button but only a Back one. Plus no Clear Holds button. In general, a very nice app and system.
On the 2019 set I see about 30 benchmarks for each grade. What are you using?
I find the app very easy to use but it took me a while to get used to it.
A good way to filter holds you specifically want to use is when you chose the set up your board you can eliminate a set of holds, for example on the 2017 set you could set the board up on the app without any red holds, that way you don't get any problems that have red holds in them. also you can use the 8 dots icon in the top right corner, tro filter problems that have a specific hold included.
great video. Would be really great if you can make a video or provide some thoughts about the following question: the height of most rooms, at least in germany, are about 2.4m to 2.5m. Should we go for the mini moonboard and lose half a meter or should we go for the full moonboard and "change" it, e.g. distance between holds? Would be great to get your thoughts about it. Ths
The MoonBoards are standardised. So altering them in any way would lose the usefulness of the 120,000 problems on the apps, and those benchmarks set specifically by world class climbers. For smaller rooms, this is what the Mini is made for!
can we have more 7C and up benchmarks on the 2016 set? thank you
sort of
Lol i just commented the same😂
As someone who has trouble just starting a moonboard (no matter the pitch or hold), I find all of this informative but not useful. For whatever reason I can handle v2 and v3 on the regular walls, but the moonboard eludes me. I just slip off or run out of steam on the first or second move.
Can you send the average v2 or v3 outside? If not, there’s a good chance your gym is a bit soft. The moonboard is not targeted at beginners, so it doesn’t have the grade inflation that is typical at gyms
@@awinick9309 Been a while since I tested the moonboard but I've had good luck with v3-v4 outside, even if I've not sent all of them, but absolutely no luck with moonboard v3s
@@thenayancat8802probably a question of style, you can send a technical, balancy V7 slab and get nowhere on a moonboard V3. And to train effectively on a board you don't have to be able to do a whole problem, even doing sections of 1-2 moves is good strenght training
@@user-ih3jl9um6e Not entirely, the outdoor v3-4s I've done weren't slabs, they were generally still quite physical. The difference I'd say having finally sent a (soft?) moonboard v4 after a good few sessions would be: reach, dynamics moves, and crosses. Almost every MB problem I try has a reachy move, a cross, or a hard deadpoint. Even the 5+ boulders have them ffs
@@user-ih3jl9um6eI doubt there are many people who could send V7 and not a V3 moon board problem.
Sorta
All I heard in the video was just “you know” ..
I dont like youre problems in the app
ey?
For me, the best time to start working on a moon board is somewhere after you found out you have shoulders but before you lie in the hospital with doctors trying to reattach your scapulas.
Also, ideally, you need 3 finger pulley injuries. If you wanna be a pro moon board climber, or moonies as nobody calls them, have one leg in a cast.
In the end, it doesn't matter that much because all the problems are rated v4. Even the harder ones. And, if you wait until the sun is shining on the moonboard, you can legally use all of the holds!
The app itself is great. There are many different ways to filter the projects. There's projects where feet follow hands, and ... uhm... anyways.
Who said bitter? I am not bitter! I am currently in the hospital where doctors are enforcing all my tendons with adamantium and also removing some of the extra organs.
Just kidding. It's a great tool, albeit very specialized tool and most places have only space for one, which again, usually is the hard one. I would even recommend doing "regular easy climbing" after a few moon board attempts and being deliberately static and making sure everything is engaged (including those shoulders).
Would be nice, if, the angles could be adjusted and lighting would be around a hold, but that would be a totally different conversation :D
Ok
😂
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