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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Today we talk about putting concrete in post holes, If your building a deck, setting fence posts, a tower blind what do you use around your treated lumber posts?
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Set tubes, fill with concrete, set post brackets in the cement, install posts. No rot and easily repaired!🤷♂️ 45 years building decks and I’ve never had to replace a post due to rot.
Your right that’s the best way to do it 👍
Here to say this. Saddles save posts. Or......buy Tamarack or osage orange 4x4s. Lmao. 40 years later they still alive.
Mark 🤣😂 Nothing works well in hurricanes, especially in western Pennsylvania.
You took the word out of my month!
Wood boring bees make post replacing inevitable, gravel at the bottom give water a place to pool and start rot from the bottom, rot at ground level makes digging up posts with 100 pounds of concrete a pain in the butt... that's my two cents, I can pull up my post and replace them in 10 minutes
Hey Mike, I'm one of the jokers that commented about setting the posts on the previous video. What I said was you don't need concrete, just a little gravel mixed with the clay from the hole. Back in the day when treated lumber first entered the market you would void the warranty setting them in cement. That changed as the treatment got better. I however resisted change. You are right that the only way to avoid rot is to not let them contact the ground at all. Lots more work, if you're happy I'm happy too. Have fun.
You do what you want i think you know Best!
We always just put in one bag of concrete just enough to create a little to anchor !!👍👊
Thank yall Hunter and the both of ya'll! God bless yall!
Mike, you opened the wrong side of the concrete bags, so now your concrete is upside down. This will speed up the rotting process. I do this for a living so.......Love the channel, thanks for the entertainment and inspiration. I'm building a shed to keep my firewood dry, this video was very helpful. Watching from Chester Springs, PA.
Best comment, thanks for the laugh. upside down hehehehe
Chester Springs! I am from Exton originally, have relatives in Chester springs, great area!
Jeffrey Kern
Too funny!!!
Winner Winner Chicken Dinner!!
Good one!
WOO HOO!!! Thanks for suggesting the 'Bucking Billy Ray' channel! That guy is a RIOT! I CANNOT stop watching him and I WISH I had just 1/4 of his energy and enthusiasm!
Before I retired I built fences and arbors for 34 years. When concrete cures it shrinks a little bit and can leave a small space between the footing and the post. Water can get down there and cut the life of the post by as much as 50%. I kept the dirt from the hole nearby, , mixed a generous shovel or more, depending on the size of the hole, of dry portland cement with the dirt (or shale, as you have) and tamped it around the post. It drew moisture from the ground and set up like concrete but still let water drain away from the post. It also allowed you to build on it without waiting for concrete to set up.
With us being in Southeast Louisiana there is usually water in any hole a foot or so deep. About two years ago I helped with putting up a new all wooden fence using pressure treated 4 X 4 post for our church. We coated the bottom part of the posts to about 6 inches above ground level with a tar that got rather hard but still slightly playable. Then we put about a foot of gravel in each 12 inch hole. Then I mixed the quick set concrete in a mixer leaving the first bag a little stiff. Then filled the rest of the hole with the concrete mixed to normal consistency and mounded the concrete to a couple inches above ground level at the post and finished it with a trowel. After setting up for a few days we heated the tar and put it around the top of the mounded concrete, kinda like caulking, around the post.
On the farm growing up, building fence, we just tamped the dirt around the post in the hole. I have poured dry redi-mix in since then, so I agree that it matters little what you do. Mosquitos go for Melissa because she's sweeter. 😜
For our stands and bridges built throughout our property we have always dug holes 4'+ deep, put about 5' tubes in and fill with concrete. Our wood is always out of the ground and what touches the concrete or mounting brackets we cover in tar. Works good for us where we live.
I used pressure treated 4X4's for a horse shed that started at 24'X12'. I dug my holes, put just about 2" of ready mix in before setting posts. Then I used some water seal on the posts before setting them inside cardboard forms to bring the concrete above ground level. I used some mixed concrete on the top so that I could slope it away from the posts. These have been in the ground, subjected to water, manure, muck etc. for about 18 years so far without a sign of rot yet.
On my post I took 5 gal. Buckets cut the bottoms out and put them about 6 inch’s below the surface then poured my concrete into the open buckets and hole with the posts in the middle.There holding so far since 2003 ! A suggestion, enclose the ground level on 3 sides to park and hide your utv or atv while hunting , after I did that it made a difference !
I hate Bugs and Snakes, that's why I Love Winter Time, Cutting Wood, WoodStove Fires, walking through the Woods. Nothing to mess with me and I can see what I need to see in the Woods. I get more outdoor projects done in the Winter. Sooo I'm with you there Beautiful !!! Charlotte NC in da House watching !!!
Just installed 5 DeerView windows in an old ice shack that will be my new hunting blind this afternoon, I went with the deluxe hinged model and couldn't be happier. The customer service was great too!
I have always “painted “ a good 6 to 12” up from the ground level with used engine oil before setting the post in concrete. Built many pole barn structures this way and never had ground rot on the post.
Thanks for the great videos, they're really informative! I read somewhere that the old timers would take their fence posts and slightly burn them, only the part that goes in the ground, over a fire, just enough to make them black. They said the posts would never rot there.... and there's probably some truth there. Has anyone else heard that method?
I love spring, too. Especially the current one. 30s at night and warming up to 40s or so in the day. NO mosquitoes nor blackflies in this weather.
As for posts, I stuff the post in the hole and tamp the dirt around it leaving a hill up the post.
I don't use lumber yard posts. I use real posts, usually about 6-8" diameter. I have lots of Tamarack (Larch) trees and one of them will make anywhere from 5-6 decent sized posts.
This is one of the great debates of the modern history along with bigfoot. The biggies problem I have found was string trims eating the post away during lawn cutting.
I think you got it right Mike. Posts only seem to rot at ground level so if you tar them a little below and above i think you will be fine. A big Hello to Hunter from the great white north up here in northern Ontario Canada. Still a little bit of snow here. Lots of flooding.
My son and I recently set 9 posts to support his woodshed. We did nearly the same as you except we placed a flat rock under each post and mixed our concrete then poured it in figuring it would give the most strength that way.
That works well to put a bag or two of dry concrete in the hole around the post, I do that all the time if I am setting a post for an underground electrical service meter or disconnect. Your correct, the moisture in the ground will make the concrete harden
Melissa is correct, they are attracted to Beauty!
Floor plan, that made me laugh. I think you lost your deere blind to the lady of the house. 😁
I love the interaction between you two.
I put a piece of black corrugated pipe in the hole with the post centered then concrete. The pipe has bridging that helps against frost heave. Placing pipe about twelve inches above the ground.
Keep up the great videos. God bless you and your family.
I bet there will be a potty in the floor plan some where.
A few video's ago you asked a rhetorical question about why your trees keep blowing down. I think the drill holes might have answered the question. You have 3'-4' of soft wet earth over a hard layer of shale that water perches on. The soil is soft with little rock to help bind it together and provide a good base for roots. Older tree roots may even have some rot. In the right conditions the tree just cant support itself. Thx for the video's and honest commentary. Put a little tar around the post at the surface line to get a little extra life in case you live until your 90...
If you ever do this for "keeps", there are posts made with laminated lumber to avoid twisting. They have an extra coating on the in ground area of the post in addition to the pressure treating. I never saw this until one of the large post frame builders used them here in the area. They also used the dry sakrete with a concrete biscuit at the bottom of the hole.
My coworkers that put in backyard fences, light construction and landscaping replace fences that have been put in concrete after 5-7 years. This is in California. I, personally have put in treated fence posts(for cattle, planted in just dirt ) that have rotted in less than 10 years and untreated posts, I treated myself for a shade, and it's been up 20 years. I also built a lean to shed next to my little shop with treated posts. More than half have rotted at ground level. The next section I build will have concrete footing with metal brackets to hold posts. Concrete is cheap and doesn't rot in the ground and posts can be shorter which are cheaper also. Just my two cents and experience. Good luck! And your project looks good. Also, rail road ties are the only posts I've had any luck with.
Great start to your hunting hideaway. Dont doubt that you wont be out there hunting the hut at 80 years old. I built one for my dad at 75 years old and he cant wait to hunt this year again at 81. 8x8 is a good size hut, mine is 6x6. I use weed screening material as blinds for the windows. It darkens the interior but allows you to see through the screening. Put plenty of shelves and hooks and dont forget the carpet to quite your feet movement. Looking forward to upcoming videos of the build. With a hut like your building your wife shouldnt have any reason not to join you in the field. My wifes excuse of too cold, too hot, bugs and rain or snow dont hold up with the construction of our hunting hut. Im sure you will enjoy the hut for many years of hunting and wildlife watching. Good Luck
Hi Mike, love your videos, my first post and from south Cornwall UK . I was born and brought up on farm and spent time in mining and 33 years in construction . Your and your friends analysis of post rotting is correct and have met the same situation myself to the point that usually the remains of the post in the concrete is as good as the day it was put in . Your prevention options are as follows , using tar above the ground as you suggested , another is an old Cornish farmers trick and that is to paint the post from the concrete to about a foot above ground level with a mixture of diesel and old engine oil . I use the ratio of about 20% diesel , this allows the mixture to soak into the post . A better option is to stand the ends in the mixture for a couple of days prior to installing and soaks up from the bottom of the post . Another option was put to me by a structural engineer friend who suggested encasing that which is buried in damp proof course and used to prevent rising damp on walls of buildings . There are also available on line plastic sleeves that can be put over the post bottoms and heat shrunk on and available in various lengths and sizes. These i used on a customers 4x4 posts for a conservatory and very satisfactory and recomendable Just a final add the dry mix i put in i compact tight with a piece of timber , this helps to hold the posts firm until it sets , especially if is windy but would still need supporting in these conditions . Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming
I put round posts in the ground . In1995 , with my post driver, when we bought our property , no concrete directly in the ground half of it I had to change this year , half of it still ok , the were treated, some did rot just above the ground some slightly underneath, , 24 years in the Irish ☘️ climate I think the did ok for For 1.24 irish punt 👍🐸🇮🇪🇫🇷
I used the burn on roll roofing across the bottom 36 inches all around. I used a weed burner torch from Harbor Freight. It’s been 20 years and all is good. The rubber roofing is exposed 12 inches above ground. Then I used asphalt adhesive to dope up there the wood becomes exposed and spread it thick with a putty knife. No rot so far.
Scorch the bottom end of the post to just above ground level with a blow torch this protects the timber then concrete in.
Hi MIKE, I think your doing a great job. I myself would have done the job the same way.
Enjoy your day, My best to the Family. Give HUNTER a high five for us.
Concrete in the hole for sure. The only thing I'm on the fence about it whether or not to put concrete block or those post mounts in the bottom of the hole. Looking good though. Can't wait to see it take shape. Thanks for sharing
Cement in hole first 18”- post set on top. Pack bottom of holes first. Replace post later is easier. Cement above grown, taper the cement so rain runs off. Plastic rap 6” on post gives life to post along with oil paintings under the plastic. Good luck.
Mike you are right that post will rot at ground level with most backfill types. One other thing to consider is that when you do need to replace the post, it is a bigger job to remove that chunk of concrete and also to dispose of the concrete.
Add a poured or precast concrete footing on the bottom if needed to carry the vertical load. Use compacted crushed gravel for back fill. Whoever has to replace the post in the future will thank you for not having to deal with a chuck of concrete.
We have about 12 acres of wheat. After the last couple of rains it is really growing. Our deer are bedding down in it and having a good time. We are happy.
I paint roll tar on my posts. They seem to last a long time. I have a chicken coop that has 4x4s that are over 30 years old and still standing
I literally was JUST talking about this with a friend who put a fence in 30 yrs ago with NON pressure treated 4x4s and covered the bottoms in tar... STILL standing and no rot. But cement anchored brackets always best. Just.more expensive
@@billupstateny9151 I use the tar from my ciggarettes!
Its a bit overkill but I usually black tar the bottom 3 or 4 ft of the post & let it dry for a day or two so its not messy to handle when placing. Like I said..its overkill but works really well. Water wont leech into the wood for a long time. Also the new "concrete alternatives" are extremely impressive & complete game changers. *only for dry holes though..not swimming pools like you had.
Good job, don’t worry how everybody does it,you good, I have done it every way your good 👍👍❤️👍👍👍
Nice! Over 20 years ago, we fenced in our backyard. Dug holes over 40 inches deep, frost line is about 3 feet here. Put a couple inches of pea gravel to help drainage, then filled hole with cement. So far so good. Keep it up Mike and Melissa, oh, Mosquitoes like sweet things, explains why they don't like Mike. Tell Hunter Hi1 BKCS
Back in 1979, just before my sister got married, I helped my Grandfather build a deck on the back of Mom and Dad's house. About twenty years or so later, just about everyone was rotted off at the ground. And they were redwood post. Carpenter Bee's liked then better than pine 4 x 4's.
I've always packed gravel around posts set in the ground. Concrete holds moisture against the posts and rots the post.
You have to mix oxygen with that moisture to get the post to rot. There will be no oxygen in the hole when he's done. That is why dock post don't rot below lake level. O2 and H2o = rot. Taring the post just above and below grade is a good idea.
I found the same. Everything goes bad @ ground level. Once it has served it purpose, I clear surface, dig, clear and dig new. Love the corner levels. I need those.
Think I'll go look on Amazon now.
I put tar around the bottom of the post and then use cement (leave the very bottom open for water to get out of the wood post). I also put in gravel in the bottom so the post hole is 2 and half feet deep. I put in a fence 3 years ago and it has weathered 3 hurricanes and nothing lost at all while my neighbors all lost their fencing. Most without cement in them.
We tamp rock around the base of the first post and get it level, then go to the other posts, get distance measurements and tamp rocks into the other holes to hold and level. Then we pour bags of concrete in and let it do what it does. Sometimes we will set the posts with rock and then screw 2x4’s up high to hold it while the concrete sets(Incase of wind and weather.
We Tar 4.5 ' as that will bring you above the ground with the tar. We then put concrete in the hole and let nature take its course. Plumbed and set prior to concrete, then tamp the dirt back in around the posts and check for level again. Usually there is not a problem and the posts don't seem to rot unless you get boring bugs. Not too many of those out here in Colorado. No problems in the posts for years. Very hard to take down if you change where you want them but generally this is for corner and stability or stretching sections.
I set my posts in concrete and ensure the concrete is 2 inches above the ground, and troweled downward from the post to ensure the water does not run in between the post and the concrete. This technique prolongs the amount of time the posts will rot.
I live in Manitoba, Canada we long cold winters and short hot and often humid summers. Our frost line is typically 8 feet and the ground in most places is damp to wet, people who set fence posts in concrete often find their posts pushed up as the frost has a tendency to squeeze them out. So usually the practice is to backfill and compact with crushed 3/4" stone, much like the guys that set telephone and power poles.
Mike...We were always taught that after the concrete had dried for a couple of days to go around the post on top of the cement with a thick layer of roofing cement. It will bond to almost anything and prevent water from getting down in the small crevice left when the wood fully dries. So far so good.
I put 1/2 bag in each hole to give a stable footing. The next day I set the posts and pour enough concrete so that it fills the hole completely, as it’s drying I try to slope it away from the post so rainwater will run away. I also mix my concrete with water in a wheelbarrow first and dump it in the holes with a shovel, this ensures consistency
Over the last 40 years or so, I've found that painting the post from about 4" below the soil line to about 6 inches above the soil line with spar varnish dramatically slows down the deterioration of the wood. But you are absolutely right that when wood post rot, it will beat the soil line.
Hi again
When I built my front porch I put 47 stone on the bottom of the hole and then made forms that extended about 4" above the hole. It's been 30 years and no rot yet.
Those treated 6x6s should last 30 plus years easy no matter how you set them , if you want them to last forever then concrete filled hole with a steel mounting plate is the way to go ,works great for porches and decks, but for a deer blind out in the woods what you're doing is going to work just fine , can't wait to see the finished product, keep up the good work.
Frost, there are many water sealing products on the market, Thompson's etc.... the biggest problem with putting a sono tube and filling it with concrete is that the frost squeeze it like a tube of tooth paste, pushing them up out of the ground usually as most only 5 or 6 feet deep, in some years the frost can reach 6 feet easily. This is why the new spec for water mains and services is now 3 meters deep.
For those that dont know, years ago the concrete we poured for a base acted like a footing, we generally poured at least 1 foot diameter and about a foot thick, BELOW the frost line, this would ensure the post remained up right. Mike Holmes did a segment on it, he used a plastic product that provided a base of about 2 feet in dia. again with the idea being the weight is at the bottom but the diameter prevents it from falling over due to the weight of the soil on top of it.
The MOST important part of digging a post hole most people do not know or do, you MUST have " virgin " soil under the base, it cannot be disturbed, it cannot be a compacted surface, so you must get all the loose material out of the bottom or the post will compress the soil over time and sink.
Putting a water proofing on the outside is all well and good, but if you allow water into the top of the post IE: not cut on an angle etc.... then the point is mute, water will travel down inside the post anyway, so tar really only prevents the bugs from eating them.
If you do not put a piece of plastic in the bottom to pour concrete on, water will wick up the bottom of the post.
30 years heavy equipment, I've built alot of bases for alot of things and I've torn down alot of old fences, the worst ones, are the ones with the " foot " on them 6 or more feet in the ground, some guys used to put them 8 feet..... the general rule is you need as much below ground as you do above for tall fences, 10 feet or more.
Concrete pad below the frost line. Then use a Post Protector sleeve on the posts. Is a plastic sleeve that slide over the post and virtually eliminates rot.
What you are doing will work fine. At my camp in Maine I put 3 ft sono-tubes filled with cement below my telephone poles that hold up a lean-too off my shed but my site is sandy.
This is going to sound weird but I had to reel back your video to 7:28 just to see Melissa appear on the scene. I super like your family based videos and you're work ethic which I have commented on before. But Melissa just rings my bell and I'm 74 years old. Way too old to have my bell ringing.
Bags of concrete will be the best! I have also placed gravel in the bottom of the hole. I have seen some people paint the bottom of the posts with an asphalt/creosote type paint. It almost looks like it will double as a man cave.
Thanks for sharing.
Now that's a good woman you got there Mike she brought you dinner in the woods take care and have a day
My dad taught me a trick. He used an icecream bucket , cut the bottom out and used it to raise the level of the concrete above ground and tapered the top away from the post. That way the rotting point is above ground , the water runs away from the post and it is less likely to rot
Yes... I always set my posts in concrete!!! I usually put a small amount of crushed stone or broken up brick chunks in the bottom of the hole to keep the post end off the soil, then put 2 or so 80# bags of Quikcrete in each hole. Setup solid as.... well, Concrete!!! :-) Great video! Anxious to see the blind evolve!!!
I put gravel in the bottom of the hole then concrete up to ground level, silicon caulk around post and concrete after its cured then I paint around the post and top of concrete. It works well for me.
As it says in the song.. 'I was a Line-Man for the county.' We never used concrete to set our Telegraph Poles. Just dug a 5 ft deep stepped hole, put the pole in, then tamped clay around the base with an fourteen pound tamper, and continued up in 6 inch steps. Obviously our poles were vacuum creosote treated, which over the years settled into tar in the lower part of the pole.
In construction we put a form tube in the ground and poured concrete in it. Then put a j bolt in the concrete to mount a post plate on top. The concrete would be about 8-12 inches above the ground. The post doesn't rot out that way.
I like the way RR builders does it , pour level cement pad ,anchor post bracket to pad ,fasten brackets to post .Post is not on the pad it setting on the bracket.
Yep! That's how I did my back porch addition.
Second that.
He's building a deer blind, about 8' square and 8' tall. It is more akin to a fence than to a home addition. The whole sona-tube/bracket/bolt thing triples the effort, time and expense.
That is over-engineering to the nth degree for a simple job like this.
Patrick Ireland It seems to be more like an addition than a fence the way he describes it. Considering the forces his structure will have the cost and time might be worth the peace of mind.
Looks good. One suggestion - when I install PT posts in the ground or in concrete, I first spray two or three coats of spray rubberized automotive undercoating on the surface of the posts. I extend the coating to about 12" above the ground or concrete surface. I have never had a rot problem doing it this way. Can't wait to see the finished product.
I have always put a flat rock or a piece of concrete block or brick in the very bottom. I used to premix the concrete and put around the post but now I just pour in the quickcrete in dry and it usually absorbs found moisture to set up. And I always pour it higher right around the post. It’s just my way of doing it. Just remember level and plumb. Good luck.
I have had good luck with putting gravel in the bottom of the hole for drainage and using concrete to set the post . Your idea of tarring the bottom of the post is a good one
Once the concrete sets, it will not change (unless it cracks). However, the wood will expand and contract to create a holding area for water. There is a wrap called "Post-Saver" that will protect the wood from rotting at ground level. It is relatively inexpensive and prevents the anaerobic condition around the post at ground level and a distance below. A post can be rotten further down, but they break at ground level because that is where the highest physical stress occurs.
The deck-building guys seem to have the best conventional/default answer: Pour concrete columns, and set a metal post-bracket into them (above-grade,) and when everything is dry, screw your posts to the metal brackets. Personally, I'm planning to experiment with painting the posts with bedliner paint (everything underground, up to a few inches above grade.)
Fence posts: I have separately considered the idea of setting 4x4 PVC post-wraps into the ground (set into concrete.) Then, just slipping the 4x4 wood posts into the sleeves. This way, when they DO eventually rot -- it should be faster/easier for me to replace individual posts? (e.g. sleeve and concrete base would still be fine. Just pull the old post out, and replace it with a new post.) All of the fence joints and spacing would remain unchanged.
Fully recommend DeerView windows. If you think setting a post can generate controversy, just wait until you open the discussion to interior or exterior framed windows, clear vs. grey glass windows, vertical, horizontal, square, or combinations. Whichever type of window you choose make sure you set the window height and orientation so you can take a comfortable shot. You may have to increase the window size to accommodate taller or shorter hunters. My son is quite a bit taller than me and my grandson is quite a bit shorter.
Add concrete a couple inches above ground level and taper concrete down like a widow ledge. Don't let water stand at the base. Make it drain off edge of concrete. This works great for both wood and metal poles.
Love your show, like how you ask for ideas as you are already pouring concrete around the post (too funny) It's sad today but the treated post last about 12-15 yrs. if in direct contact with poor drainage soil & maybe 15-18 in soil with good drainage ! Verybest thing to do now before backfilling is to protect at surface level (which you mentioned )fast best & easiest is Bor-8 plugsand spray ground surface area with car undercoating (next best thing to roofing tar to keep post from wicking)Have noticed
I agree with Steve Walker.
If you are working with wet concrete: filling the hole above the level of the ground, using concrete form tubing as a form. The concrete is then sloped away from the post will prolong the life of the post. (The other option is a poured concrete tube and a Teco post anchor above the ground level and the water)
Good morning Mike and Melissa... I think it'll be great when it's finished.
On the Reserve, we would use treated 4x4 posts for all the trail signs. 2' in the ground, backfilled and packed down with dirt. It worked well for us. Because they were treated, i never experienced any rotting, but then again, we never got the kind of rain you do. Our big kiosks were treated 8x8s and those we would concrete.
Like you mentioned, everyone does it differently and that's how we did ours. Thanks for my Saturday morning video.
Hey Mike, this is the first time I'm posting but I love the channel, and its content. As far as setting posts in concrete, to keep them from rotting I've always used either a driveway tar sealant, or a roofing sealant that I apply with a paintbrush to about 3 to 4 inches above the ground. This will seal it from moisture, and bugs. I have found this has worked on posts from Southern California to Northern Kentucky.
I built an observation tower at the edge of a swamp near the cabin I have there using peeled hemlock logs. I dug my holes, tipped the poles up into the holes and filled the holes with small rocks, packing them down as I went. It lasted about 25 years before the poles rotted, at ground level, as you said. My new tower will be set above ground on a patio block base. I also had a lifeguard type chair at the top to sit in.
Read in harrow smith magazine that if you mix your concrete and put it in the hole without adding the water it will harden but stay porous and allow moisture to drain away
I’m about to set post to repair my deck. I’m going to put gravel in the bottom. Concrete up to grade and then put a tube an come up about 6” above grade with some thicker mix and taper it out from the post. Tar is a good idea too.
What I do is put old Henry's on all 4 sides about 6 inches up above the ground"NOT THE BOTTOM" then I put 2 to 3 inches of gravel in the bottom of the hole. Then I set gravel around the posts. I got 30 years plus out of my old fence. Looking forward to not having to replace the new ones. Hi Hunter how are you buddy. God bless
Mike, I do believe based on my own experiences that concrete poured up to ground level does accelerate rotting of posts, even those made of cedar. I’ve had better post lifespan using treated wood or untreated oak or hickory although they are pricey if purchased but you seem to have plenty of oak on your land. I agree that they rot at ground level so if you want to use gravel use enough to go from the bottom of the hole to ground level to let any moisture that collects be able to drain off. If you use concrete I’ve had luck gradually tapering it up the post well above ground level so moisture sheds off or burying a pylon shaped form for your concrete that extends above ground level. Of all the options this may cost more due to the amount of concrete used but should maximize the life expectancy of the posts. Good luck with your project.
Hey man not an expert but recently read a book on fencing. the the way you avoid rot the the base is to dome the cement at the top of the hole so the water runs off.
in the uk mick we treat the post bottoms as well up to the ground level as well mick, also in 30 years time a tree may fall on it.. so as long as your happy with it ,it don't matter what people think.
With the 2x4's I get from Lowe's anymore I have to predrill and countersink screw holes so they don't split.
I have always done it just like you did. We get plenty of "liquid sunshine" here in Florida and my method so far has not failed me.
I've built pressure treated handrails. The problem I see is heavy rain will swell the wood & crack the concrete. I tried putting gutter downspout metal around them. That helps a lot if you can find the right metal size. Painting with spar urethane before setting them helps with the swelling too & delays the rot. I've heard to wait 6 months on pressure treated wood, but it'll split if it sets that long. 2 months is about right. Non painted wood seems to rot faster. That can be costly because you need 2 to 3 coats on all the wood.
if you get your sawmill you can start using either locust,or white oak posts,they will last as long,or longer than p.t. also something i have been researching and am going to start doing is charing the lower partof posts going in the ground,it appeareantly prevents them from rotting off,we shall see.
For the quick install: I like to put a couple inches of concrete on the bottom, put the post in, fill the hole with concrete and tamp it in, pour some water in and tamp it some more. If there is any concrete that didn't get wet the rainy days should take care of that. The tar at and above ground level should last you, maybe a couple coats.
Mike, I think it will take longer for those posts to rot anyway because the roof on the tower blind will divert most of the water from around the posts. It's not like this is a sing set or something that has no protection overhead. I think those will last for decades. You're grandchildren will enjoy coming out there knowing their grandfather Mike built that!I also looks like it may be high enough to park the Ranger underneath to keep the weather off it when you're out there.
Ever try putting plastic bags like a sock on the pole and have it pulled up above the ground making sure it has no holes run a bead of silicone and staple or you can duck tape the top of the bag around the post. This is done when their is a problem with continuously very damp holes to ensure longevity and in high traffic areas where debris is kicked up hitting along moist post hole post junction.
I think you will get your money's worth out of those posts! I think if you just keep the leaves and debris from piling up on them they will be able to dry out and should last a long time. Melissa I remember when you didn't want to be on camera. Boy has that changed. Love it!
I’ve never pulled out a post that was set with concrete that had not rotted at ground level. I have pulled posts that were set without concrete that had been in the ground for over 20 years that were not rotted. The only benefit I see of setting posts in concrete is that it speeds up the setting process some.. and tamping a dozen or more posts properly is a real pain.
Hey Mike, I'm a believer in gravel or rocks in the hole, not for support but for a leach field of sorts. the water that rots the posts at ground level is not necessarily but can be from ground water. It is many times from the water that soaks in and wicks into the post itself, if it has no where to drain out it interacts with air at the ground level and rots off. For the ground level water concern either mound the soil or the concrete where it sheds water away from the post. That's the way I was taught and from 40 years of doin it -it seems to work well. Opinions will vary I am sure ;)
Mike, I've always buttered the ends in the ground with roofing tar. Lay it on thick and let it dry before install. Then just tamp down back fill.
3” of snow today. Thumbs up
mike you are 100% correct the post always rot at ground level because it needs moisture and air. the biggest reason NOT to use concrete unless its in a sonotube is because the hole is not perfectly round and this gives frost something to grab onto and push the post out of the ground.
Mike: Brody on Wranglerstar CZcams channel had a good idea. He drilled a hole from the side and drilled down close to center as he could and poured used motor oil down the hole and plugged the hole with a wood dowel, then only added oil once a year. If I recall correctly it was one where he built a timber frame mail box. Hope it helps.
From Vienna how i did it : ( sorry about my bad english !) For posts i only use hard wood such as oak or robinia maybe Larix also. Further i paint all the parts under the earth with blach asphalt colour . Next : I dig a whole in the ground ca 90 cm deep and double as wide the post is thick. So next i give in the whole ca 10 liter broken stones for ground drainage . Setting the post exact vertical und close the whole with the same broken stones . I use a plastic hammer to vibrate the stones in the whole and at the end i give a heavy pressure on the top . ( with my greates hammer 18 kg !°) Attention : Do not give earth near the post , so they d'ont rot away ! Good luck ! Never use concret because of condecio wather rise between wood and concret ! If you do so as i write , your posts standing 10 years as my posts stands !
Good video, Mike. I’m anxious to see how the blind turns out. But I can’t feel too sorry for you getting rain. We’ve had 60 inches or so in the last year and my thought is, it’s someone else’s turn!