Ive come from a background in earthmoving, where I found most machines can do a lot of things. It seems like with ag tractors every job you do, you need an implement that you dont have. I foresee a long go line and an empty pocket.
I actually think you explained it better than anyone else. I understood what you’re saying. I use a heavy metal to level out areas I need to level. So now I get what my draft controller actually does. 😂 Thanks for the info.
I also have a Mahindra tractor and have used draft control quite a bit with box blade and rake. The way I set draft for your situation would be start slowing driving along and try to find a high spot you would like to cut down. Drop your 3pt down until you think its sufficient enough to remove a small amount of dirt. At this point start pulling back on your draft control until you start seeing your implement raising drop it back down a touch and roll with it. Once its set it will dig on the high points and when your back wheels start dropping into a low spot causing extra force on implement the draft will take over and raise 3pt preventing digging deeper and essentially floating over low point. Also with my draft control you can definently see it working up and down in small adjustments as I go along. And if i pull the lever back all the way it will actually lift the 3pt all the up. Either way loved the video
Long time western Oregon farmer here. The only time I’ve used the draft control is with high load ground implements like a plow or ripper. I don’t think it’s much help for leveling. Basically I set the depth I want an implement to go in the ground using depth control with draft completely off. Once that is set I engage the implement and set the draft control to avoid overloading the tractor on hard spots or to set the amount of slippage or tire spin I want. I don’t see much value for compact tractors which is probably why John Deere doesn’t offer it until their 5000 series tractors which are utility tractors. If you want to level ground there is a grading implement with tires and a blade that works really slick but you can use a three point leveler or even a chunk of railroad rail in a pinch.
pulling dirt to low spots with box blade, Then I use a heavy I beam with welded spikes on it for loose material pulling in figure 8 pattern, You can get it like a putting green
Thank you very much. This video pointed out a major misunderstanding on my part. I have a TYM and my draft pin is identical. I had it in the locked position and for the life of me couldn’t figure out why my draft control did very little.
Glad it helped, I've been playing with it for a few years now wondering why it didn't do anything to help grade my drive, now I know it just doesn't work that way or for that purpose.
Great explanation of draft control. Draft control won't work for your application.....you need a leveler to knock down the high spots and fill the low spots.....if you have a good pile of scrap you can make a drag type.....if you have any agricultural neighbors you may be able to borrow a blade type. The blade type may be too large for 1/2 acre as they take some room to turn. I don' tlike to borrow so I bought a POS(piece-of-sh...) and rebuilt it (not recommened,,,too much timeinvested)......then sold it when I was finsihed. You also may be able to rent a driveway grader (TR3"E" Property Eition). I havea 90 horse massey with type-II implement connections that pulls a 12ft blade with no problem.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I've come to your exact conclusions. I made a second video "leveling" the woodyard, I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad. Turns were a bit tight, and since it doesn't really have cutting edges it went a bit slower than I hoped, but it worked. For the driveway I usually just use the York rake, if I have to really take it down or move a bit more material I'll hook up the box blade. I'd like a land level, someday hopefully.
Harry Ferguson invented, developed and Patented tho along with His 3 pt. ( Ferguson ) System. The Draft control was integral with His own Tractors. After merging with Massey Harris, the Harris tractors were legally able to use the 3 pt. Hitch. But the Harris tractors , due to Their general design , weren’t able to utilize Draft Control. After Ferguson’s Patent expired, most all of the Tractor Manufacturers , including Deere, Quickly used the system. Fergieman
Very thorough explanation. Thank you. Disappointing that your manual doesn’t offer a good explanation. Well, I guess the results of the trial & error method will stick with/ you longer than reading. Have you tried to find more answers in an on line forum? Not sure if Tractor Mike of Tractor Time w/ Tim have covered this topic. They’re 2 CZcams channels I trust & turn to for answers.
I'll have to check them out, I honesty don't remember which channels I watched while learning about this stuff myself I may have seen them already. But thank you.
Draft control makes the implement terrain following. Not really what you want for levelling. Imagine wanting to keep a plough running 6” deep on undulating ground, the closed loop load sensing on the top link lifts and lowers the plough to maintain the depth rather than it going deeper as the tractor climbs out of a valley or lifting out of the ground as the tractor crests a hill if you are using positional control.
I agree but with a slight caveat, terrain following to the extent that the load sensed is the same. That load (or drag) sensed can change by way of the tractor changing angle like your example or if the ground consistency changes (think plowing through sand/soil then you hit rocks or clay), than the load/drag increases causing the system to lift the implement to maintain the same drag initially set. Thanks for the feedback and taking the time to watch.
@@twosawacres8096 yes the load increasing or decreasing at the top link adjusts the depth of the lower link. On my Grey Ferguson there is only draft control, no positional control. This means you cannot use a rotary cutter as you would on a more modern tractor. You need a fixed link to the top link, no chain or swing link. You need the wheel at the back to impart force to get the draft control to lift and lower the linkage to follow the terrain.
Ive been scratching my head on this for weeks. Thanks for the vid.
Ive come from a background in earthmoving, where I found most machines can do a lot of things. It seems like with ag tractors every job you do, you need an implement that you dont have. I foresee a long go line and an empty pocket.
@@J..O..D and ag stuff is priced like marine stuff...lol
I actually think you explained it better than anyone else. I understood what you’re saying. I use a heavy metal to level out areas I need to level. So now I get what my draft controller actually does. 😂 Thanks for the info.
Glad it helped, I was so confused at first, and youtube had differing explanations...
I also have a Mahindra tractor and have used draft control quite a bit with box blade and rake. The way I set draft for your situation would be start slowing driving along and try to find a high spot you would like to cut down. Drop your 3pt down until you think its sufficient enough to remove a small amount of dirt. At this point start pulling back on your draft control until you start seeing your implement raising drop it back down a touch and roll with it. Once its set it will dig on the high points and when your back wheels start dropping into a low spot causing extra force on implement the draft will take over and raise 3pt preventing digging deeper and essentially floating over low point.
Also with my draft control you can definently see it working up and down in small adjustments as I go along. And if i pull the lever back all the way it will actually lift the 3pt all the up.
Either way loved the video
Thanks for the feedback, I've found just letting the rake ride, (especially at an angle) works really well for the drive.
Long time western Oregon farmer here. The only time I’ve used the draft control is with high load ground implements like a plow or ripper. I don’t think it’s much help for leveling. Basically I set the depth I want an implement to go in the ground using depth control with draft completely off. Once that is set I engage the implement and set the draft control to avoid overloading the tractor on hard spots or to set the amount of slippage or tire spin I want. I don’t see much value for compact tractors which is probably why John Deere doesn’t offer it until their 5000 series tractors which are utility tractors. If you want to level ground there is a grading implement with tires and a blade that works really slick but you can use a three point leveler or even a chunk of railroad rail in a pinch.
Those are my conclusions in sum, thanks for the input.
I found this helpful. My manual for my New Holland workmaster is equally vague without any description of the levers function
Confusing to say the last.
pulling dirt to low spots with box blade, Then I use a heavy I beam with welded spikes on it for loose material pulling in figure 8 pattern, You can get it like a putting green
Thank you very much. This video pointed out a major misunderstanding on my part. I have a TYM and my draft pin is identical. I had it in the locked position and for the life of me couldn’t figure out why my draft control did very little.
Glad it helped, I've been playing with it for a few years now wondering why it didn't do anything to help grade my drive, now I know it just doesn't work that way or for that purpose.
Great explanation of draft control. Draft control won't work for your application.....you need a leveler to knock down the high spots and fill the low spots.....if you have a good pile of scrap you can make a drag type.....if you have any agricultural neighbors you may be able to borrow a blade type. The blade type may be too large for 1/2 acre as they take some room to turn. I don' tlike to borrow so I bought a POS(piece-of-sh...) and rebuilt it (not recommened,,,too much timeinvested)......then sold it when I was finsihed. You also may be able to rent a driveway grader (TR3"E" Property Eition). I havea 90 horse massey with type-II implement connections that pulls a 12ft blade with no problem.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I've come to your exact conclusions. I made a second video "leveling" the woodyard, I ended up using a 20' chunk of railroad. Turns were a bit tight, and since it doesn't really have cutting edges it went a bit slower than I hoped, but it worked. For the driveway I usually just use the York rake, if I have to really take it down or move a bit more material I'll hook up the box blade. I'd like a land level, someday hopefully.
Harry Ferguson invented, developed and Patented tho along with His 3 pt. ( Ferguson ) System. The Draft control was integral with His own Tractors. After merging with Massey Harris, the Harris tractors were legally able to use the 3 pt. Hitch. But the Harris tractors , due to Their general design , weren’t able to utilize Draft Control.
After Ferguson’s Patent expired, most all of the Tractor Manufacturers , including Deere, Quickly used the system.
Fergieman
Awesome explanation
Thanks
Higher horsepower tractors have Lower Link Sensing, it is a sensor on the bottom of the lower link arms, not the sway bars as you said.
Hi there, I thought that's what I said, sorry. My understanding is just what you described.
Very thorough explanation. Thank you. Disappointing that your manual doesn’t offer a good explanation. Well, I guess the results of the trial & error method will stick with/ you longer than reading. Have you tried to find more answers in an on line forum? Not sure if Tractor Mike of Tractor Time w/ Tim have covered this topic. They’re 2 CZcams channels I trust & turn to for answers.
I'll have to check them out, I honesty don't remember which channels I watched while learning about this stuff myself I may have seen them already. But thank you.
Good video.
Thank you.
Interesting video. Couldn’t help noticing your still navy. Most people say forward and back not forward and aft
For life!
Draft control makes the implement terrain following. Not really what you want for levelling.
Imagine wanting to keep a plough running 6” deep on undulating ground, the closed loop load sensing on the top link lifts and lowers the plough to maintain the depth rather than it going deeper as the tractor climbs out of a valley or lifting out of the ground as the tractor crests a hill if you are using positional control.
I agree but with a slight caveat, terrain following to the extent that the load sensed is the same. That load (or drag) sensed can change by way of the tractor changing angle like your example or if the ground consistency changes (think plowing through sand/soil then you hit rocks or clay), than the load/drag increases causing the system to lift the implement to maintain the same drag initially set. Thanks for the feedback and taking the time to watch.
@@twosawacres8096 yes the load increasing or decreasing at the top link adjusts the depth of the lower link.
On my Grey Ferguson there is only draft control, no positional control. This means you cannot use a rotary cutter as you would on a more modern tractor. You need a fixed link to the top link, no chain or swing link. You need the wheel at the back to impart force to get the draft control to lift and lower the linkage to follow the terrain.
Ain't new been using in uk for 60years at least