2002-06 MINI Cooper Non-S Clutch Replacement Part 2 of 2
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- čas přidán 11. 04. 2014
- Part 2-Step by step for a Gen 1 R50 "Justa Cooper." Nearly same process for R53 Cooper S - just remove radiator&air intake also. I have both hands free throughout the video. Patented Mechanics eye view howto video!
Buy the parts & tools here (verify fitment before ordering!):
Pressure plate, clutch disk and throwout bearing:
Up to June 2004:
amzn.to/2RoLUbt
After July 2004:
amzn.to/2O2Vnr0
Rear main (crankshaft) seal:
amzn.to/2IB5xZF
Redline MTL transmission oil:
amzn.to/2OCHfnM
Engine support bar:
amzn.to/2O0DtF4
Transmission jack:
www.harborfreight.com/automoti...
or amzn.to/2Rq4qAj
Craftsman right angle impact driver:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004... mimlif-20
"DIY videos provided for reference/entertainment purposes only. Only work on your car if you have the right tools and are comfortable doing so. If in doubt, consult a professional. Mod MINI is not responsible for any 'mistakes' or 'incidents' arising out of your working on your own vehicle. Have fun and stay safe!" Follow #ModMINI on Twitter to get notified of new video uploads! / modminiyoutube Thanks for watching!
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Having watched parts one and two multiple times prior to getting started, other than breaking things free after 16 years of Wisconsin winters, this went smoothly. Especially considering I had only ever changed the oil before. Thank you for putting this together!!
Watching part one convinced me of two things.
1) i don't have the skill or patience to do this alone and
2) I wish you lived next door.
Haha - glad you are being honest with yourself - nothing worse than digging in and then discovering you are in over your head after half your car is on the floor and you need to go to work on Monday.
*****
True!
So far I've replaced the struts, the AC Clutch Coil, the CV joints and the Control Arm Bushings all in the driveway. I'm getting way too good at removing and replacing the front end and now have far too many one use specialty tools.
Barry Kooda It is almost always cheaper to buy a tool you may only use once than to pay someone else to do it for you. And you may find you use the tools more than you originally expected.
IV worked on loads of cars over the years......no way would I attempt this
I thought I'd find a tutorial video on CZcams and see how to do my mini one clutch.....after watching this I think mechanics are the real hero's in life and worth every penny
Finished up this job on Sunday and I can't thank you enough for these videos. Other than my own negligence everything went prefect. You were right about the shift linkage being different on the 06, so much easier to get to. You've been such a life saver when it comes to working on my Mini, thank you so much.
How could anyone 'thumbs down' this video?? It is pure perfection!! That said, I am still not sure I am skilled enough to get the job done ;-) Very good informative vid, many thanks!!
Your mini clutch series is amazing. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks!
Having got this far, I would always replace the rear main seal behind the flywheel as a precaution. It’s the same steps repeated if it goes a few months later, and it’s likely to spray oil on your shiny new clutch. And it’s cheap. Great videos though, I love your explanations. Simple and easy to follow..cheers.
I just wanted to say thank you, sincerely. I am a college kid on a college budget, and when I found out that my clutch needed to be replaced at $2,500, I was devastated. The only thing I had ever done on a car is change the oil, so jumping to a clutch was quite drastic for me. But because of your two videos, I was able to change it over the weekend for less than $200. Thank you again for what you do, and keep it up! Love your videos.
ian mcclure Thanks for the note! That's how I got started actually - I bought a junk car in college for $500, the next day the transmission went out. I'd never worked on cars before. My friend suggested I buy a junkyard transmission, let me borrow his tools and his driveway, gave me a Chilton manual, and said "ask me if you have any questions." This was on a front wheel drive car. I somehow managed to do the job and have been wrenching on cars ever since.
***** It's definitely a gratifying experience, I can see why you haven't stopped. Now I feel like I can do anything on my mini. The first thing that I did was go out and buy the Chilton manual and my dad let me borrow his tools. It definitely wasn't easy, but it was SO worth it!
On a side note, I also saw that your assistant mechanic in this video had a Q13 Fox News shirt on, which is what me and my family watch haha. Do you happen to live near the Seattle area? You dont need to say if you do or not, I just thought it was a funny observation.
Anyways, keep doing what you're doing cause you help lots of people who find themselves in similar positions like mine (and have a frustrating time reading Chiltons manuals haha).
ian mcclure Yes, Seattle area. He works for the station.
Thank you for the detailed information, most of this would not be covered on the service manual and your experience saves me time and a few head aches. Happy motoring
Thank you so much for making these videos. I followed you step by step the whole way and everything went great. I wish more people did repair videos like you. Thanks again.
Both parts were incredibly helpful to me even though I've changed clutches on cars many times before. Thank you for doing this.
Thank you so much. I followed you step by step, thankful for your comments explaining certain intricacies and especially the size of the nuts and bolts. You saved me a small fortune.
A Big Thank you for your awesome video, my daughter's 2004 (Aug 04) MINI, clutch gave way the other day. It would of cost her around $2000 to get a professional to do this job(we live in Australia). Your video made this extensive job very easy with your clear and descriptive commentary. Thank you again, and a big cheers.....
Just found these videos ,great skills to be doing on the floor and make it look easy
Finished my job today without any issues thanks to your great video. Failure was due to a fracture of the welded fork that pushes the thrust bearing onto the pressure plate. The result of the fracture was to force the bearing so unevenly that it was digging into the fingers of the pressure plate and eventually peeled the bearing apart. Had a nasty late problem when changing the engine oil (not part of the clutch repair) to find that a careless former owner has stripped the thread of the drain plug. The original plug is a 14mm thread, thankfully my local parts shop had a 15mm repair kit, comprising a 15mm tap and 15mm plugs. Now as good as new. The only variations in my procedure versus the video was that I removed the plastic housing block of the gear change from the gearbox which is held on by 3 x 10mm bolts and I also removed the alloy mounting bracket for the clutch slave cylinder to improve access to attach an engine support.
You reminds me of my self . I worked on small engines and some auto stuff like doing rebuilds and replacing transmissions or clutches things like that . I am 60 now and just cant do it any more . But any time I get to the point where the damage occurred I always call the owner and have him come down and take a look at the damage . Before I do a job I always tell them the hrs it will take to do the job from the books . It is vary hard to do the job in a shorter time and in most cases it takes longer maybe a hr or two . I only charge what the book hrs said it will take . If it's more well I dont charge for that . I am just out on those hrs . I was always like that so they know what happen and what caused it . This was not a book telling me this but it is my own work ethic . In the 20 years I had done this and I dont know how many small engines I had worked with that in that time span I only had 2 mowers came back to me . One I had to remove the cost of that work and time to just replacing an engine . The other was an adjustment and a different type of locking nut . I never had anything else . I always got repeat people for tuneups and service work and new people coming in . I dont rip people off in trying to repair their weed eaters . I just dont do them . These weed eaters are 4 or 5 years old problems mostly crank seals and fuel systems . You have a good work ethics .
thanks for making super easy to follow videos with zero BS
great tuttorial thanks changed my clutch last weekend without any problems, had to change the clutch slave cylinder though started leaking on me after it was disturbed.
Thanks for the videos they helped a ton getting the clutch changed! Probably saved me around £600. I can always appreciate the effort of having to video while working then having to edit it so thankyou very much. Keep up the great work!!
Awesome job! Love the feeling of a nice new clutch!
Great video, shows everything in order, very nice narration.
The best vid on the subject i've came across, thanks buddy.
Great job and with the go pro on your head we indeed can see everything you do!
Thanks a million for taking the time to do what you do. Your to the point instructional video with head cam is brilliant.
thank you so much for the video! it almost makes me feel i'm doing it myself.
Thank you so much for your videos. Simply perfect in all aspects. Please keep em coming. Your helping ppl on an unspeakable scale! Thank you.
This is really good. I left the BMW dealer network in 2002 but, off the back of your video & with my experience, I'd happily give this a go. Just wish I hadn't sold so much of my shop kit 🤔
I've watched these both about 4 times now, and for never having done anything of this sort, I am going to give it a go. I appreciate your video's, I feel very informed. I think I need one of those bolt trays you had at the end.
Good luck - the first repair job I ever did was a clutch job, but cars were simpler in those days. Use your common sense and if something seems weird, determine the cause for your concern and resolve it before proceeding.
Thank god these videos exist. Thank you so much Mod Mini!
Excellent video series. Many thanks for putting this together.
This job made the fuel pump job on my '85 MR-2 look easy.
Great video. I watched the whole thing and I don't even own a Mini.
Total Pro. i would definitely trust you with my mini. I'm going to change mine because I don't know anyone with your skills. Loved the guest in this video also.
Thank you Mini Mod. Your the best!
Great videos, I am about to tackle this job on my daughters 2006 R52. This is a big help! Funny, I know its probably just me but your helper started stressing me out.
Very nice video, doing now the job by my self.
Thanks you so much for posting this video, I followed it pretty much excactly doing the swap on my car, only thing I noticed was a couple of the bolt and but head sizes were different on my 2002 Cooper S, but thanks again!! Looking at your latest video, I reackon it may save some time and hassle to take the engine/gearbox out in one, rather than messing around with the subframe. It took me 30 minutes to get the gearbox back on the engine!
+behenjamin I have a Cooper S clutch video. For the most part the bolts are the same as all other year first generation Cooper S. I'm considering trying to remove the whole engine the next time I do a clutch job and see if it's faster. I suspect it will be close but the subframe method will be maybe 15-20 mins faster...
Fantastic video. Gave me the confidence to do it myself
Great Video ! Good Stuff. I needed this !!
You Sr is one of those rare guys that is honest . Never tried to rip people off . I dont know what you charge for doing a job like this but so far you have a good 2.0 hrs into the job at the beginning of part 2 and that just two pulling the trans .
I won't publicly discuss what I charge but it's definitely a win-win - much cheaper than a shop but compensates me fairly for my time and expertise.
@@ModMINI : I do under stand that just because you dont know the cost of all the parts you may need and I cant blame you for not saying . I under stand .
The two video's are perfect i spent £525 in parts (reconditioned gearbox and clutch) and saved at least £500 in Labour lets keep an old car on the road thanks
Thanks for this. I'm gonna have to do this before the year is out, but outside in the rain most likely 😑
I've watched a shit ton of your videos, very nicely detailed. If you have any experience rebuilding a Midlands transmission I'll look forward to watching the video.. 😉
good job sir !! you do it like magic touch!
Excellent tutorial!
Good job.thanks for posting. I'll be doing this soon to my R53.
I am working on an updated R53 version of this video. Stay tuned.
Wow, fantastic video. I just bought a 2005 mini. Have only driven it enough to fill it up once.
I knew it had some issues, all the fluids leak. but the real trouble happened when It started popping out of 5th gear at highway cruising speed. then it started popping out of 2nd, then all the gears. (different trips but worse after each one). The last time I could drive it, it popped out of gear at first, then stopped popping out of gear but wouldn't go into gear at all. It went into gear if stepped on the gas for long enough to get home. Now it won't budge at all.
I am afraid of not being able to find the right shop to fix it. I took it someplace to diagnose all that may be wrong with it when I was first buying it , but they, ah, didn't drive it to see if something was wrong with the clutch. They may not have been able to tell anyway, as it I had to drive across the island before it popped out of gear the first time.
More symptoms. With the car off, I can move the stick around to the different gears.When I turn it on with the clutch pushed it, it's got some weird sounds. when I let out the clutch even in neutral, it bangs, and jumps and dies. It doesn't matter which gear it seems to be in, it does the same thing. It is hard to move it to other gears with the clutch in, but when i let it out, same thing, in any gear if I can even get it into one.
Any ideas?
I had trouble getting the trans to slide back on. I bought some long bolts and slid them through tranny to bell housing. That held everything level and in line. It slid right on, then replaced bolts with the right ones.
Excellent - from the UK
I just finished my clutch swap. Talk about a pain in the rear to do myself.
But I got it done. If you do this job replace your swaybar bushing. Mine were totally shot. Glade I order new poly bushing.
thanks,very good demonstration.
bravo
Great job man. Your videos are very informative. I watched both parts. I'm not a mechanic but it was great to see the workings of these machines. I had a clutch and pedal problem where the pedal was sticking about half way down but figured out we needed to replace the master clutch & slave cylinder.
Thanks for watching. That's an odd problem. Considering the spring force from the pressure plate, it is unusual for a pedal to stick halfway. I'll keep your resolution in mind in case I come across the same symptoms.
***** Thanks. After replacement, the clutch pedal no longer sticks and shifting is again smooth. However, my mechanic stated that I need to replace the clutch. Recommends a single mass clutch flywheel (Valeo) to replace the OEM dual. My car is a 2005 Cooper S with 101k miles on it. What are your thoughts? Should I wait a bit further until the clutch goes or just go ahead and do it?
mjo23dan What is his rationale for recommending the clutch replacement? The solid Valeo flywheel clutch kit is a great alternative to OEM and I recommend it as well. If your clutch is working fine, I don't see any need to replace it now. Do it when you start to feel it slip.
***** Ok thanks. I will note that.
Thanks mate, these have been very helpful👍
Do you have a video on the 2006 release fork as the one you have shown on this video on the side was to short to show how it goes together
Cheers
Steve
Awesome job!
Light clutch pedal feel is normal with the Valeo and even with a new OEM setup.
perfect thanks for posting this.
Great videos, I think I'll have the pros fix mine though
Thank you very much for getting back to me.... I'm not thinking about going 6 speed. I'm just looking for differences between the midlands box ( which I thought the video is carried out on) and the getrag 5 speed box ( which my 2005 cooper has ). I'm Just trying to get as much info as possible before changing my clutch. Thanks again for all your help.
The Getrag moves the location of the slave cylinder and shifter cables but those are very minor differences in terms of process. The procedure is essentially identical.
That's great thank you.
8:03 - you show 2 different throw out bearings. The one in your right hand - you say it's for the 06. I actually had that in my 03. May I ask - you (1) why would I have an 06 part in my 03. (2) It looks like that part (in your right hand), doesn't connect as there is no bracket - correct? It just 'floats' on the shaft? I ask you this because my new clutch kit came with a bearing that looks like the one in your left hand - so I just used the old one, as it looked correct - but again, didn't attach to anything. Can you confirm for me please? Thanks so much for your help!!
perfect job !
Great Video
Great video! Quick question. Clutch felt great but now at speed and I let off the gas my steering wheel shakes. Do I need an alignment or did I possibly not tighten something up enough? Thanks
Thanks for your nice and comprehensive videos! With your help I was able to remove my broken transmission (getrag). Now I will replace the bearings. Any tips for that? I'd love a video of an open getrag video, with all the components out and explained ;)
Benjamin Gantenbein I don't have a video but try watching this limited slip differential replacement video. This is for a six speed Cooper S but shows the general steps for removing the differential and replacing the bearings. You'll need a bearing press, or may even be able to tap them on with a hammer if you are gentle.
czcams.com/video/KPXZIOB9QiM/video.html
Great job .
Great videos….Thanks.
Great detail.I've watched part1 also.I suspect that I have a bent/ fractured fork arm on the R50 I'm working on and I am going to replace Bearing guide tube as well as clutch.
Keep up the Good work!
You video is amazing! I had a clicking noise at the bell housing area. My clutch needed to be replaced. When i pulled out the throwout its not damaged although has lots of play at the inner ring of the throwout bearing(wobbles about 1/4 inch). The clutch is almost to the rivits. Replacing. Flywheel appears to be ok. I was wondering if the throwout might of caused the clicking noise. Or another maybe another problem. Thank you for you help. Its truly appreciated!
It is possible for a worn throwout bearing to make that sort of noise.
Yeah on the 06 version, the exhaust has to come down also. Nicely done.
You don't touch exhaust at all on any Gen 1 car. The Gen 2 does require exhaust removal which is 2007 model year onward.
I followed the instructions, put it all back together and shifts ok but a little rough getting it into gear sometimes. Any ideas
Hi mine went bang the other day had to get towed home not sure if it’s just the throw out bearing or the box it’s self that’s damaged this helped thanks
If it's an R53, almost never the transmission.
Very informative
both videos seem straight forward and well documented, all in all I know its been a few years but how long did you estimate it took from start to finish. Also what else to look for while your in there,,
thanks
Work time varies so much depending on experience and tools available that it's almost meaningless to give an estimate.
great video, replaced clutch and bad fork. a little clunky shifting. you mentioned gear oil, what should I have used?, and the manual said 2 qts for my 2003. that seems like alot.
2 quarts is about the right amount. You pump or pour in oil until it starts to leak back out of the fill hole (when car is level). Manual didn't mention correct oil type? You can add a Liqui-moly friction modifier to smooth out shifting. I used this stuff once on a noisy transmission and it quieted things down - amzn.to/2qwi1LY
Hi, what are the torque wrench settings.. What is the best gear box Oil to use? :Thanks.
i just got a 2003 cooper the clutch pedal is hard to push in a bit have been told they can feel hard in mini s . is this right ?
Is this a cable or hudraulic clutch?My mini non s is hard to go into 1st and 2nd any ideas
great mechanics eye view, useful tips as well, I'm not looking forward to swapping my 5 speed getrag box, but after watching these videos I'm much more confident. Anyone swapped a 5 speed getrag for a 6 speed cooper s box on a 2005 mini? is it much more work?
It can be done but you need to replace clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing, slave cylinder and hydraulic line, axles, shift cables and maybe the shift box too.
thanks a lot
Thank you very much for the videos! That helps a lot!
Could you please tell me, in the newer minis, are there any differences in the procedure you did with this model?
After 2006 the drivetrain is totally different, but the general process is similar.
+Mod MINI ok! thank you very much for your reply! :-)
So i dont need to remove engine? Thats good. I can pull the whole gearbox out without removing the engine? Great Job!!
Thank you so much for this! I just got done with installing a clutch kit on my SO's mini thanks to this. I was quoted 1900 USD (in Sweden) by the stealers so I figured what the hell, might as well give it a go myself. Throwout bearing was screaming but still worked, it practically exploded though when I pulled the gearbox from the engine. I noticed when reinstalling the slave cylinder that it needed to be compressed about 15mm in order to fit, resulting in the bearing being constantly engaged slightly against the diaphragm spring fingers. Is that normal or is it the root cause of my bearing failure?
Thanks again!
Yes, that is normal.
Brilliant. This is what I’m going to attempt in the summer. Are the Centring tools easy to get hold of?
They usually come with the clutch kits.
Hi again! Were did you get the centering tool? Does that come with the clutch kit?
Oh, and gear oil ...what works well (assuming high milage) and what is available on west coast and quantity. Looks like you put a pint to get it to align with the check hole? Thanks so much for these vids. I learn so much better by watching.
+chappledesign Comes with kit, but it is not very useful. Feel around outside of the disk. Redline MTL is my recommend. Hard to find in stores, best to buy online. amzn.to/1I49OSG
Hi , Thanks for taking he time and effort in putting these together. They are fabulous...
I have a question for an r50 with the 5sp getrag. What are the main differences. You mention the clutch slave cylinder in a different place for example . Is the starter motor and are the shifter linkages mostly in the same positions ? Thanks again .
I assume you are asking because you are considering swapping for a six speed. Starter motor is in the same location but I think the starter motor pinion gear is different. Shift linkage is totally different as are the axles. The flywheel weighs more on the R53 which could cause drivability issues. I have heard from someone who did a 6 speed swap and regretted it.
If you are talking about a 5 speed to a 5 speed swap, you won't have the drivability problems but you may have all those other problems. I know linkage and hydraulics are different. I don't know if axles/starter are same or different so you'd have to research that.
Great work and detail
How long does it take you to finish something like this?
With lots of practice and the right tools, about 6 hours on a Cooper and 9 hours on a Cooper S.
Whats the best clutch kits to fit back into a 2002 mini cooper with the midland box ?
Stock setup is probably just fine for that, since the flywheel is already a single mass setup. You might even not have to replace the flywheel.
You mentioned you had worked on a 2005 5 speed and recognized a difference in transmissions with this 2002 Mini. In 2005 and 2006 (2007 and 2008 for base model convertibles) Mini made a good decision to abandon the Midland 5 speed. They changed to a quality Getrag 5 speed in 2005. A lot larger transmission and weighs nearly twice as much. The Midland was simply to light and wasn't very durable.
This is correct.The change happened for cars built 07/2004 and later.
Do you recommend replacing the rear main seal every time the clutch is replaced? My car only has 61k and it does not appear to be leaking. Also noticed two of the clutch alignment dowel pins were sitting in the bell housing. Have you seen those come out before? Think that is what damaged the clutch.
Hi, I am converting my R50 from a CVT to a 6 speed manual and I am using an aftermarket clutch kit. It came with a new flywheel, pressure plate, disk, release bearing and alignment tool. Does the R50 use a clutch pilot bearing? At 10:20, it seems like they do not but I wasn't sure. Can you please let me know? Thanks!!!!
Your video and instructions are awesome. I’ve got my daughters 2006 R50 back together and everything works except the linkage is messed up. On hers, the cable that moves the gear selector forward and back runs underneath the transmission mount. I am unable to run through all of the gears because when the selector on top of the transmission is in the highest position, it’s hitting the transmission mount. It’s almost like there should be a spacer between the transmission and the transmission mount to create a larger gap for the cable bushing to clear the transmission mount. Do you have any advice?
I figured it out. While I had the transmission out setting on an old tire, I must have slightly bent the gear selector arm. I just had to slide a crescent wrench on there and bend it back down less than a quarter of an inch.
I just replaced the clutch. I put everything back on. But now car wont start. I turn the key no turnover or crank. Need opinions 😅
how much did you charge do to this job? trying to figure out if i want to tackle it myself or hire someone.
Hey
Do you know if a r56 cooper has a dual or singlemass flywheel and corresponding clutch plate? Pic in oem catalog shows a clutch plate without springs but all replacement clutch kits i find have clutchplate with springs. 🤯
For R56, Stock is dual mass flywheel with no springs in clutch disk for turbo, for non turbo it is a solid flywheel with springs in the disk.
Why does Amazon say that this won’t fit my 04 r50 ? I’m trying to convert to signal mass fly wheel too and can’t find anything. Could I possibly get some help?
@Mod MINI where are you located? Also how much would a job like this cost? I have a 2004 Mini Cooper S and I have a feeling the throw out bearing is going bad. I don't have the room (I live in an apartment) nor the skill to do this.
Mi mini 06 …clutch failed ,only 50,000 miles , reviewing your good videos, I would like to do it myself, in my city nobody wants to change it, 😅
Great video. Is the throw out bearing supposed to wobble. It spins fine although has lots of play.
A new one? It is supposed to be loose on the guide tube. Can you quantify "lots of play"? There is some play within the bearing, maybe 0.5mm? Don't reuse an old throwout bearing!
Hi Mini Mod,
I think my throw oit bearing exploded. The front wheels were locked solid but I've been able to drive it since.
Been told the gearbox is dead by one mechanic but another said the above.
Would the trowout bearing exploding, damage my 5spd geearbox??
throwout bearing will generally not damage gearbox, but the 5 speed gearboxes are known to destroy themselves from the inside.
My transmission on my 02 mini R50 is slipping on 2nd and 3rd gear after I replaced the clutch. Could my transmission be bad?
Transmissions don't slip. Did you clean all oil off the pressure plate and flywheel?
IM THINKING OF TAKING THIS JOB ON BUT MINE IS A 2005, WILL IT BE THE SAME AS THE 2002, IT'S A BIG JOB TO TAKE ON NEVER DONE IT BEFORE
it be cheaper for the mechanic to do mine as i dont have the tools to do it and my them and do it its going to cost twice as much i found a clutch for £45 pounds on ebay some cheap make
is is it a good idea to get it or do i get a valio? Great video thank you.
+runneryg Same as here, the shift link and slave cylinder location on transmission may be different. On an R50 the OEM clutch is perfectly fine. R50 has a standard solid flywheel.
I think mine just exploded.
could it cause the front end to lock up and skid to a stop? Then releasing all fluid onto ground ?
***** I don't have enough information to know what happened. Fluid on ground usually means hole in transmission casing - sorry. :-(