Think your car's ready for a dyno tune? Think again - Scott goes over five important things you can check and fix at home to avoid cost (and mechanical) blowups on a dyno. Do these before taking your car for dyno tune and save dyno time (and money) and possibly even get a better tune! Got a dyno tuning disaster story? We want to hear it - leave it in the comments section!
Hey Scotty, I live in Sydney and soon to own my Dad's Toyota Aurion 2009 Sportivo SX6 which has the 2GR-FE engine...first, is it possible to tune the car with stock components? also can I bolt on a turbo with exhaust but engine components stock? And also what are the prices? Cheers.
new set of spark plugs is definitely helpful - either installed - or ready to install after getting a rough fuel map sorted so you have nice plugs that are not fouled or worn out
The note about the immobiliser stood out to me. My car was taken for a tune by my mechanic so i wasn't present, but they had an awful time on the dyno with the immobiliser cutting in and out several times and causing disconnects from the ECU. I'm surprised (and grateful) that they persisted!
Another note on batteries, now that we are hitting the colder weather, this is where batteries go to pot. Do a regular battery check as it gets colder.
sorry about the comment the other day scott. it is not the bmw pencil coils or wiring is the problem for miss fire. it was the settings rotational idle cutting spark due to rolling anti lag enabled smh. love the haltech elite ecu badass
An experienced engine tuner will use a scope to do a relative compression test, using a reference from one of the coils or leads and a current clamp on a battery lead.
Interesting that for a compression test, you crank until the pressure stops rising. When I was learning, a _very_ long time back now...back when carburetors were a thing...you went to full throttle, bit only cranked for 3-5 rotations. I think the idea was to avoid getting too much fuel in the cylinder, which could give an artificially high reading while also washing all the lube off the cylinder walls. But since there was no real way to turn off a carb that has a full float chamber (especially as most carbs didn't come with a cut-off solenoid back then)...so that was the best we could do. Still seemed to give reasonable results so long as you were consistent in your technique, as consistency of compression was generally considered more important than outright pressure numbers. :-)
@@ZTM_Development You understand that cars of the age I'm talking about didn't have either cam or crank sensors, yes? Didn't have sensors of any sort. Even the fuel pumps were mechanical and pumped whenever the engine spun...and fuel systems were returnless, so fuel was always available if the engine was turning over.
Think your car's ready for a dyno tune? Think again - Scott goes over five important things you can check and fix at home to avoid cost (and mechanical) blowups on a dyno. Do these before taking your car for dyno tune and save dyno time (and money) and possibly even get a better tune! Got a dyno tuning disaster story? We want to hear it - leave it in the comments section!
The injector size got me once. Got the tune to 2 bar and was out. Car made way more power than the tuner, and I expected.
Hey Scotty, I live in Sydney and soon to own my Dad's Toyota Aurion 2009 Sportivo SX6 which has the 2GR-FE engine...first, is it possible to tune the car with stock components? also can I bolt on a turbo with exhaust but engine components stock? And also what are the prices? Cheers.
new set of spark plugs is definitely helpful - either installed - or ready to install after getting a rough fuel map sorted so you have nice plugs that are not fouled or worn out
My fav part was calling it disco smoke 😂
The note about the immobiliser stood out to me. My car was taken for a tune by my mechanic so i wasn't present, but they had an awful time on the dyno with the immobiliser cutting in and out several times and causing disconnects from the ECU. I'm surprised (and grateful) that they persisted!
Helpful vid, thank guys. Any of those simple things can easily be forgotten when you're eager to get your build on the road.
Great tips
Dope tips, cheers Scotty.
Great vid and checklist!!!👌
So the dyno guy vapes into the inlet lol.
Good video.
Another note on batteries, now that we are hitting the colder weather, this is where batteries go to pot.
Do a regular battery check as it gets colder.
^^ Yes.
What ever happened to the "What's so special about" ej207, hope it still happens eventually :)
We actually have that video on our "things to do next" list. Not long now:)
@@haltech wow!
sorry about the comment the other day scott. it is not the bmw pencil coils or wiring is the problem for miss fire. it was the settings rotational idle cutting spark due to rolling anti lag enabled smh. love the haltech elite ecu badass
An experienced engine tuner will use a scope to do a relative compression test, using a reference from one of the coils or leads and a current clamp on a battery lead.
Interesting that for a compression test, you crank until the pressure stops rising. When I was learning, a _very_ long time back now...back when carburetors were a thing...you went to full throttle, bit only cranked for 3-5 rotations. I think the idea was to avoid getting too much fuel in the cylinder, which could give an artificially high reading while also washing all the lube off the cylinder walls. But since there was no real way to turn off a carb that has a full float chamber (especially as most carbs didn't come with a cut-off solenoid back then)...so that was the best we could do. Still seemed to give reasonable results so long as you were consistent in your technique, as consistency of compression was generally considered more important than outright pressure numbers. :-)
Unplug cam/crank sensors... No signal... No fuel or fire. 👍🏽
@@ZTM_Development You understand that cars of the age I'm talking about didn't have either cam or crank sensors, yes? Didn't have sensors of any sort. Even the fuel pumps were mechanical and pumped whenever the engine spun...and fuel systems were returnless, so fuel was always available if the engine was turning over.
I feel like checking the intercooler piping is a bit of a dig at Mary's evo 😂
another one with wiring and grounds ect is check for corrosion otherwise ull be replacing stuff for no reason
star point grounding location to be at the engine ?!
This is would be great information if the Haltech ECU I am waiting on was in stock… all that work and the car is not doing much at all at the moment.
Sorry! We're doing our best in a difficult time.
A uni degree and special tool xD
Was that an R31 in the battery ground example?
Yes!
czcams.com/video/cwmKdQgxCag/video.html
Good idea. Save yourself some time and us some embarrassment 😳
Full tank of fuel.
Pear shaped = gone awry or amis for all the American’s
A pair of what though? A para shoot, a para keet?
One nut per wheel stud!? This is political correctness gone mad.