Incredible, when I first saw that 1938 carburetor covered in rust, and everything locked up solid, I thought that's a really nice brick that used to be a carburetor. I'm amazed that you were able to successfully get it apart, cleaned up and rebuilt it into a working carburetor again. Think about today's components, add 85 years. I bet you'd never have the same results.
I've found heat from a handheld propane torch to be the #1 weapon on these carbs, especially the brass screws. Heat em til they flash green, let em cool, and they'll come right out. I was cringing as you took off the bowl, waiting for the threads to strip LOL. For pulling the nozzle, I like threading it with a tap, putting a bolt in it, then using a nut on the bolt with some washers to pull out the nozzle. I have the proper size drill bits to clean the passages, it's nice to use it to pull out copious amounts of rust. This was a very nice comprehensive video of rebuilding these carbs!
Heat is key. And patience. I've used the bolt method you describe to pull nozzles too. But I often default to the slide hammer because it's quick and effective. But I have had a few very stubborn nozzles that the slide hammer wouldn't budge. But the bolt and washers worked great. I'm curious if you've ever worried about the little drill bits breaking? But I guess you're just using hand speed to clean, not actually remove metal... And they did use drill bits in the factory originally to drill the passages, so I guess I may have just answered my own question 😅
@@jonelsonsteryeah I'll use the drills by hand, or gently with a cordless drill. You can easily feel the difference when you bottom out in a passage. They aren't usually plugged SOLID. Hasn't caused any issues. Usually have to order "aircraft length" drill bits for extra reach but it works well
Great job on that rust infested carb. Didn't think you were going to have much luck with getting it torn apart. You accomplished the impossible and it's now ready to be put in service.
This is a very educational video. The comments also have valuable information by those that know. I have a Zenith carburetor to work on and this is very helpful how-to in this I can use for my application.
Good job and the old stuff seems to do better because it was built with more 'meat' to them so they didn't bust as easy. I usually used kroil or 50/50 atf and acetone. Soak it down and keep it soaked for a while and a hand impact is a handy thing to have. NOW to put that carb on something that needs it. Blessings to yall!
I do all my own carbs, I’ve seen about everything you can imagine lol. I’ve had some that look decent on the outside and are horrible inside and some that you’d think have no hope by looking at the outside and look almost new when you open them up!
Excellent video Jonelstar :) back years ago my late Father ask me help out on vechile repairs also I ask what was changing exhaust manifolds plus whole on his 1990 Chevrolet 2500 3/4 ton and he said yes! So pick up 6 can of super pentriotion fluid called Realsea and torch with 4 cylinders of fuel ! So the weekend come up we both dug in to and my dad had joke does can have honey in smell like it and check ingredients said it did Lol ! But took bolts and everything apart no problem no break bolts to except the tailpipe clamp was hacksaw off ! Then friend of family need me do job get bees away from his Attic vent door I had spray that Realsea spray keep them forever and never saw again ever! Then in 2010 was last could spray pentrion fluid ever again but need get because my dad need help get lug rims so get new tires rims on truck they were rusted so bad so use fluid and brought no problem so put light flim grease of moly type high temperature to no problem ever too! But when came wash up from doing outside stuff my late mom be funny said why playing with honey on told I her what about pentriotion fluid smell and she said buy it more love smell of it over others fluid ! My dad yes playing with honey fluid anytime ! Yes it funny though like Lol!
Not exactly sure. Sadly I didn't get as much time as I want to work on this old stuff. My work and little children are my main focus. But I'll probably get back to the Oliver soon. I'm also working to get my 830-Industrial running. And also helping my dad with his 830. We want to get those running so we can use them this spring.
Hey I have a model A that I put a model B carb on, before I get it running I'm wondering how I should set the mixture screws for the load valve and (what ever other adjustment they have. I can't remember the name),
Hmmm... The internal bore of a B carb is quite a bit smaller than an A, so you won't be able to flow as much air. But it is still probably doable, you might just be down on power. You'll still go through the carb adjustment sequence the same. Initially I'd think you would want the idle and load needles screwed out farther to provide more fuel to the larger engine. But you'll just have to do some trial and error. I'd be curious to hear how it goes.
Can I ask why you use WD40 ? WD40 is mostly water, from what I have heard. Could this be incorrect? I love the PB Blaster, I use that on all mr rusty nuts and bolts. I have rebuild 2, 4B John Deere 2 bottom plows. The PB Blaster worked like a champ.
I use WD-40 because we've used it since I was a kid on everything and it seems to work well. It can sometimes get a bad rap online... But I like it. It doesn't contain any water... I'm fact it displaces water... That's what the wd stands for... Water displacement. And it does a phenomenal job of keeping parts from rusting. For my job I work with aircraft determining how to prevent metallic fatigue. When we have field failures and an aircraft crashes, we use WD-40 to preserve the fracture surfaces from rusting while we ship failed components from the side of the runway to the lab for inspection. High strength steel can corrode quickly if not protected, and that could interfere with determining root cause... But WD-40 does a great job at protecting from water and moisture in the air.
No. I didn't use any special drill bits. I use pieces of MIG welder wire, penetrating oil, carb cleaner, and compressed air to clear out the passages. I've never had any problems with that method. And it's essentially free. I'm sure the drill bits would work too, I've just never used them.
Incredible, when I first saw that 1938 carburetor covered in rust, and everything locked up solid, I thought that's a really nice brick that used to be a carburetor.
I'm amazed that you were able to successfully get it apart, cleaned up and rebuilt it into a working carburetor again.
Think about today's components, add 85 years. I bet you'd never have the same results.
Yes, I was pleasantly surprised.
I've found heat from a handheld propane torch to be the #1 weapon on these carbs, especially the brass screws. Heat em til they flash green, let em cool, and they'll come right out. I was cringing as you took off the bowl, waiting for the threads to strip LOL. For pulling the nozzle, I like threading it with a tap, putting a bolt in it, then using a nut on the bolt with some washers to pull out the nozzle. I have the proper size drill bits to clean the passages, it's nice to use it to pull out copious amounts of rust. This was a very nice comprehensive video of rebuilding these carbs!
Heat is key. And patience. I've used the bolt method you describe to pull nozzles too. But I often default to the slide hammer because it's quick and effective. But I have had a few very stubborn nozzles that the slide hammer wouldn't budge. But the bolt and washers worked great. I'm curious if you've ever worried about the little drill bits breaking? But I guess you're just using hand speed to clean, not actually remove metal... And they did use drill bits in the factory originally to drill the passages, so I guess I may have just answered my own question 😅
@@jonelsonsteryeah I'll use the drills by hand, or gently with a cordless drill. You can easily feel the difference when you bottom out in a passage. They aren't usually plugged SOLID. Hasn't caused any issues. Usually have to order "aircraft length" drill bits for extra reach but it works well
Great job on that rust infested carb. Didn't think you were going to have much luck with getting it torn apart. You accomplished the impossible and it's now ready to be put in service.
Yes, it's already running on that 1938 G and doing a good job
This is a very educational video. The comments also have valuable information by those that know. I have a Zenith carburetor to work on and this is very helpful how-to in this I can use for my application.
Thank you!
Good job and the old stuff seems to do better because it was built with more 'meat' to them so they didn't bust as easy. I usually used kroil or 50/50 atf and acetone. Soak it down and keep it soaked for a while and a hand impact is a handy thing to have. NOW to put that carb on something that needs it. Blessings to yall!
Yes, the carb is back on our friend's '38 G running like a champ!
YAAY! I like the old stuff a lot!@@jonelsonster
I do all my own carbs, I’ve seen about everything you can imagine lol. I’ve had some that look decent on the outside and are horrible inside and some that you’d think have no hope by looking at the outside and look almost new when you open them up!
Yup! I agree
Excellent video Jonelstar :) back years ago my late Father ask me help out on vechile repairs also I ask what was changing exhaust manifolds plus whole on his 1990 Chevrolet 2500 3/4 ton and he said yes! So pick up 6 can of super pentriotion fluid called Realsea and torch with 4 cylinders of fuel ! So the weekend come up we both dug in to and my dad had joke does can have honey in smell like it and check ingredients said it did Lol ! But took bolts and everything apart no problem no break bolts to except the tailpipe clamp was hacksaw off ! Then friend of family need me do job get bees away from his Attic vent door I had spray that Realsea spray keep them forever and never saw again ever! Then in 2010 was last could spray pentrion fluid ever again but need get because my dad need help get lug rims so get new tires rims on truck they were rusted so bad so use fluid and brought no problem so put light flim grease of moly type high temperature to no problem ever too! But when came wash up from doing outside stuff my late mom be funny said why playing with honey on told I her what about pentriotion fluid smell and she said buy it more love smell of it over others fluid ! My dad yes playing with honey fluid anytime ! Yes it funny though like Lol!
Very cool story!
I’m wondering when you are going to continue work on the Oliver 70.
Not exactly sure. Sadly I didn't get as much time as I want to work on this old stuff. My work and little children are my main focus. But I'll probably get back to the Oliver soon. I'm also working to get my 830-Industrial running. And also helping my dad with his 830. We want to get those running so we can use them this spring.
Hey I have a model A that I put a model B carb on, before I get it running I'm wondering how I should set the mixture screws for the load valve and (what ever other adjustment they have. I can't remember the name),
Hmmm... The internal bore of a B carb is quite a bit smaller than an A, so you won't be able to flow as much air. But it is still probably doable, you might just be down on power. You'll still go through the carb adjustment sequence the same. Initially I'd think you would want the idle and load needles screwed out farther to provide more fuel to the larger engine. But you'll just have to do some trial and error. I'd be curious to hear how it goes.
Can I ask why you use WD40 ? WD40 is mostly water, from what I have heard. Could this be incorrect? I love the PB Blaster, I use that on all mr rusty nuts and bolts. I have rebuild 2, 4B John Deere 2 bottom plows. The PB Blaster worked like a champ.
I use WD-40 because we've used it since I was a kid on everything and it seems to work well. It can sometimes get a bad rap online... But I like it. It doesn't contain any water... I'm fact it displaces water... That's what the wd stands for... Water displacement. And it does a phenomenal job of keeping parts from rusting. For my job I work with aircraft determining how to prevent metallic fatigue. When we have field failures and an aircraft crashes, we use WD-40 to preserve the fracture surfaces from rusting while we ship failed components from the side of the runway to the lab for inspection. High strength steel can corrode quickly if not protected, and that could interfere with determining root cause... But WD-40 does a great job at protecting from water and moisture in the air.
Yes agreed but WD 40 is not a penetrant . Whatever works for you is good A great show on patience and perseverance . Thanks !
Thanks for the information. My use it now for some things. That is why I asked. You just never know what answer could come back.
I noticed that you didn't use any special drill in the video. Or did you.
No. I didn't use any special drill bits. I use pieces of MIG welder wire, penetrating oil, carb cleaner, and compressed air to clear out the passages. I've never had any problems with that method. And it's essentially free. I'm sure the drill bits would work too, I've just never used them.
You should consider buying a Lotto ticket. lol
My luck has already run out... I used it all on this carb! 🤣
lol@@jonelsonster