How to wire your Holley Pro Dash
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- I describe how to wire in additional inputs and outputs onto the Holley 6.8" Pro Dash.
Easily add inputs or outputs to your Holley Dash, or other Holley connector with this kit. It provides 5 wires with pre-crimped terminals. www.summitraci... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
"and that fucker goes flyin" ..... lmao.... Sounds like me if I were going to make a youtube video. Love it. Thanks man.
I completely forgot I said that. Thanks for watching and commenting. I think this was the first video I made on the dash, it wasn't even for CZcams at the time.
Its like hearing instructions from Kenny Fuckin Powers, which is awesome.
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you for the video. I subscribed to you channel. Keep the contents coming.
I do have a question regarding the IROC Z28. I too have one and am looking for some help on wiring up my turn signals and head lights to it. Can you please tell me what's the best way to go about it from the factory fuse box.
Do I just take the wire that powers my lights and any other switches from the fuse box and just run it to the dash?
Also I'm running a Holley HP efi system to it as well. Thank you for the insights
Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing. If you're looking at working on the wiring of your car, but not doing a full rewire, then I'd use the wiring diagrams from Austin's Third Gen. I saved all of the ones for my car from that website onto my laptop for easy reference. Here is the link for that website.
austinthirdgen.org/thirdgen-wiring-diagrams/
If you're looking for a fresh start, I'd suggest the Leash street strip board. We have this in the OBS shop truck with the 632 in it, it makes wiring all of the lights and accessories a breeze. Here is a link for that product.
www.leashelectronics.com/products/street-strip-wiring-board
Hey man I got the 12.3 dash. Love your videos thank you! Can the standalone dash trigger a ground for a cooling fan relay by reading the coolant temp sensor? thanks again JR
Thanks for watching and commenting, I'm glad that you enjoy the videos. There was a software update for the dash, one of the updates is for the outputs being able to function off other inputs such as coolant temp. That's actually a future video that I'm going to push out in maybe two weeks.
@@TrailerParkMotorsports Thank you man!
Where do you get those little crimp on things to pin them
Thanks for watching and commenting. When I made this video, I used preterminated wires. Among other places, you can source the terminals from Monkey Fab.
Read my first comment under this first, lol! Wondering if I can get away with the 553-112 model I think it is, not the 553-117 with all the extra harness's.
Could the efi 7in be hooked up to the 386 fuel injection crate motor
Thanks for watching. I'm not too familiar with the 7" dash, but I'm pretty sure that you can if you wire in all of the sensors to the harness. My friend Brian channel @jcavs garage, he has the 7" screen in his Mustang, he might be able to help more.
Where did you find the connector pins for the Pro Dash Connector?
At the time that I made this video, I was buying pre-terminated wires from Holley on Summit, part number HLY-558-420.
Since then, Mike at Monkey Fab has started selling the pins and connectors for Holley stuff. There are a few other sources, but Mike is a fellow veteran, and I like to support my brother's.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi, I wanted to see if you knew any tips on the 6.86 standalone Pro version, you seem to know a lot about this. I know you're using the Terminator ECU. Not my first rodeo, have installed a kustom Knight Rider dash, numerous radios, and three Code Alarm remote start systems. I want to start basic with only like 6-7 gauge inputs on my 2000 Trans Am. Have you seen any premade bezels out there for the 4th gen TA's? Holley wants you to plug an I/O harness #2 in to the main harness, and possibly use their oil and coolant sending units. Trying to figure out if I can use mostly the OEM sending units and somehow calibrate them in the Holley dash? And wondering how many of these sending unit signals would be available to me right at the cluster wiring, without having to run new sender wires all over the car and new senders. Also prefer to use the car's OEM VSS if I can, not the GPS, I think. Also, I think the 2000 fuel level V8 sender OEM is NOT 0 to 90 ohms but can be replaced with a GM sending unit that is 0-90 from what I'm reading? Any thoughts and ideas on any of this? Thank you, and love the Camaro! Lee
Thanks for watching, I'll try and answer as much as I can while I'm at work and not by my car or the computer. The main difference between the Pro Dash and the standalone Pro Dash is that the harness is pre-wired for the standalone and the bare minimum of wires (power, ground, CAN) are pre-wired with the standard Pro Dash. You could do it yourself easily if you buy the pins in bulk and wire it yourself, or just spend the money for the standalone dash. I'm assuming that you either are using the stock computer for your 4th gen, or it's a carb setup, and not easily connected from the dash to the ECU through the CANbus connection. You do not need to use Holley specific sensors, I'm having great luck with the Low Dollar Motorsports sensors, which have the same scaling as the Holley ones. As long as you know the scaling numbers (resistance, frequency, or 0-5v range) you can use any sensor you want. Personally, I'm using a mix between factory sensors from a 2003 Silverado (oil pressure and coolant temperature) and a 1997 Camaro (crank, cam) or Low Dollar (fuel pressure, transmission temperature) and they are either wired to the ECU (then read by the dash through the CANbus) or straight to the dash like the trans temp. I do not know if anyone makes a bezel for a Pro Dash in a 4th gen, (I wasn't looking for anything besides a 82-89 Camaro, but I do remember seeing a bunch of 1st gen bezels) but more people are 3d printing or molding their own and selling them now than a year ago when I bought mine. You do not need to swap the fuel level sending unit, just set the scaling for the resistance levels for a 4th gen (30-370 I think). I'd reconsider using the GPS speedometer, it's super accurate and acquires the satellites inside my garage before I even start backing the car outside. The OEM one is basically only reading the driveshaft speed, doing the math for gear ratio and tire size, it doesn't account for tire slip or tire size/gear ratio changes. It also doesn't use up an input, the GPS has its own antenna port and connects with a small coaxial cable; the antenna just gets attached to the dash pad with a piece of double sided tape.
@@TrailerParkMotorsports thanks a million, this is all great input. I'm going to respond more in a bit but wanted to say thank you right away!
@@TrailerParkMotorsports Hey it really means a lot to me that you took the time to answer these questions! I’m studying the wiring harnesses is quite a bit, I’m also considering the original 7 inch dash that they came out in 2016 with. I’m still on the fence about whether I would want to spend all that extra money for the extra harnesses or just buy the pins and do it myself. The original 7” dash looks like for about $100 you can get an I/O harness and you could really cheap out with from there, just use the white connector to go to the dash itself and cut off the black waterproof part completely! Yes I’m considering doing this with the stock fourth generation ECM with the LS1 engine. I’m just beginning to study the shop manual I’m looking at the shop manual from 1999 not 2000 but it should be similar - I have it on a USB stick instead of the printed books. It doesn’t look very easy at all to tap in to the canbus - do you happen to know what protocol they are using in the fourth gen or where I can find out? I have been looking. It’s great that you’re finding that the lowdollar motor sports sensors work well for less money! That’s good to know I’m going to check out their website. By the way it seems like this is a very solid and well engineered product but I’m still concerned about diving in at this price point and ending up with a high priced paperweight! Or blowing it up inputting a bad input. But I should be ok as long as I study it all first as long as I’m not trying to put 1000 volts from the ignition coil into the dash, LOL. I don’t think that would happen, but it’s a concern. I found what you said about your sensor set up quite interesting, and I understand what you’re saying about the fourth generation gas gauge. I get the impression the techs I talked to at Holly don’t seem understand that you can calibrate a lot of these sending units in the dash software, as long as they’re are 5V unit. I think they think you can only use the Holley sensors, or that’s what they were told to think! Haha Yes, I’m going to have to look into different bezels or fabricating something, I’ll keep working on that. I really want to start out basic with just the basic regular dash functions - fuel level, volts RPM, speedo, oil, and coolant, so you would think that wouldn’t be too hard! My concern about the GPS speedometer is if there were any GPS outages or if you were in a tunnel or something that that would affect the odometer reading too much? I’m not sure yet, was thinking I could probably leave the factory odometer connected and then just use that for the odometer and then the GPS speedometer, which would be more accurrate than the VSS speedometer anyway. Do you have any thoughts on that? I see your point about not using up an input if you use their GPS signal, that’s a very good point! One other thing I don’t understand is why Holly doesn’t have data sheets for the more popular car models that offer their preferred method of installation with all of their recommended software settings whether to use the canbus or not and what sensors to use for your specific application it would seem like that would make things go much easier and they would see more units. I’m very interested to see that you’re using both the canbus and also the input / output harnesses to jam a lot of data into that dashboard! Lastly, did you ever notice in the input settings there’s a pre-configured setting for GM LSX engines for the coolant and oil? I was wondering if that might allow me to use the stock coolant and oil sensors? Do you ever use a multimeter to confirm the volts, amps, or resistance on your sensors are compatible with your dash? Your set up sounds awesome! Anyway thanks for any and all thoughts!
Where can I find the diagram for the 84 Camaro
austinthirdgen.org/thirdgen-wiring-diagrams/
What did you use to mount the Holley on the column?
Thanks for watching. It's not on the column, it's mounted to a piece of plastic that fits in the stock dash. I just changed it after three years and I'm working on a video showing that. Look for it this weekend.
@@TrailerParkMotorsports no problem at all. Will do, I’m gonna turn on post notifications rn
What size pin connector did you buy for the harness?
Thanks for watching. Here's a link, I hope it helps.
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/3-1447221-3/3742550
Also this one.
madracingparts.com/products/holley-20-gauge-crimp-pins?_pos=2&_sid=ba37f75c5&_ss=r
Your awesome thanks for the reply trying to get my GTO dialed in for Holley LS fest west
@Carpenter909 sounds like a fun project, and good luck.
do you need holly wiring
@ashad_._8113 no, you can source the terminals from other companies like Monkey Fab and use 18-20 gauge wire from anywhere.
@@TrailerParkMotorsports ok thanks i didnt really feel like re wiring the whole car
Do you do house installs near chiraq?
I spend the least amount of time possible in Illinois. I would rather go back to Baghdad.
However, you can come down to Texas anytime you want.
@@TrailerParkMotorsports perfect time to load up the trailer
Which size pin connectors did you buy for that harness?
I have a terminator x and pro dash 6.86 but instructions dont make sense as you take the one end of can connector and connect it to the ecu harness and you put the terminator/resistor on the other end but doesn't show where to connect the usb cable that came with the terminator x. I know the pro dash has a usb c to usb female but surely they aren't wanting you to tune through the pro dash? Can I not run the terminator/resistor plug and connect the usb mals harness to that?
So CANbus, or closed area network bus is an old networking topology. It really hasn't been used much in something like 30 years, however it does work very well with a limited number of devices such as in a car where you only are connecting the ECU to a dash or a logger or a handful of other devices. Unlike some other newer Network topologies bus cannot have an open port and needs a terminating resistor.
To connect your Terminator X ECU to the pro dash, locate the can connector on the main harness. Remove the terminating resistor from the can connector if there's one in place and connect the can cable to the pro Dash. On the harness of the pro Dash there is a built-in splitter, that is to can connectors. You can plug in your USB dongle for the laptop to one of those open connectors or plug in the terminating resistor instead.
If you are not going to use the prodash and just run the Terminator X on its own, then you would plug in the USB dongle into the can connector on Holley main harness.
@@TrailerParkMotorsports one of my buddies said that I need the splitter cable that holley sells. But it does make sense that I can unplug the resistor and plug the can to usb cable to it.
@@Tookoff you can do it either way, with a splitter off the main harness with one end going to the dash and the other going to the dash, or plug the dash straight into the canBUS connector on the main harness and then the USB dongle into the unused can connector on the dash harness.
I'm using the splitter method.
My owners manual went right into trash on day 1. Send it!
That explains all the questions you ask me on messenger.
What’s the part number for the wire terminal you crimped onto the wire
www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-558-420
Alternatively, you can buy the terminals separately from someplace like here.... www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/3-1447221-3/A107346CT-ND/3742550
If I add more inputs and outputs to the dash, I may go this route, but I thought this would work since I only wanted to add trans temp and fuel level gauge. Adding the turn signal indicators used up the last of the five wires.
Thanks
Where can I find the diagram for the 84 Camaro
austinthirdgen.org/thirdgen-wiring-diagrams/