Capturing EMOTIONAL IFSC Moments | Eddie Fowke | EP 19 That's Not Real Climbing Podcast
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2024
- Eddie is an ex-IFSC photographer, who worked with them from 2014-2020. In this episode, we’ll get his thoughts on the ethics and purpose of photojournalism, hear about the chaos behind the scenes traveling around for world cups, and discuss ideas on how to get athletes better paid.
Guest links:
Instagram: / thecircuitclimbing
Reference links:
Vail Triangle Pose: czcams.com/users/live3zE_Inot...
Mia Krampl Koper Incident: czcams.com/users/livedro2rTDV...
For more information on the podcast, check out the website: www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Join the FREE community on Discord: / discord
To help support the podcast, you can buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
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Timestamps
0:00 - Intro/The great photographer race
13:31 - Comp background + injury
16:29 - Starting photography
24:53 - Becoming a professional photographer
31:36 - IFSC freelance employment only
34:23 - Photography itself is a competitive sport
38:46 - Azerbaijan comp disaster
46:45 - Strange historical US comp scoring
50:30 - IFSC scoring, bringing back 4+ min
57:47 - The importance + difficulty of commentary
1:05:49 - Are there too many photographers?
1:15:20 - Demeaning athlete posing
1:17:55 - Behind the scenes portrait chaos
1:20:48 - Youth climber dating distractions...
1:23:34 - Climbers under RED-S pressure
1:32:19 - Photographing athletes in vulnerable moments
1:39:25 - Photojournalism + variety
1:41:55 - Mia Krampl Koper Incident
1:43:32 - “Losers” in sport
1:51:10 - Pro comp climbers after retirement
1:55:23 - Comparing climbing to disc golf
1:59:03 - Ways to fix athlete funding
2:06:22 - The fall of comp climbing?
2:21:35 - Discord Q: Could/should there be an alternative to IFSC?
2:23:36 - Olympics hatred
2:33:21 - Discord Q: Differences between comp climbing vs outdoor climbing photography
2:39:19 - Being more famous than Will Bosi
2:43:48 - Where to find Eddie - Sport
Really interesting insights on this one! Eddie has always been someone who's been readily available to share suggestions and opinions when prompted, he's personally contributed a LOT to my own progression as a competition photographer. Glad you got him on this long-format video, unfiltered and raw with his opinions as he is!
Amazing insights! I really love this interview, spot on that there should be more prize money for the athletes!
Great interview! Interesting perspective, felt very personal, which was nice.
Awesome interview. Really great stuff here.
Eddie's insights on the financial side of climbing/IFSC are really interesting. It does always seem bizarre that there is so little money in climbing. I also watch things like Skateboarding and BMX, and there is SO much more prize money in them.
In my mind, this all comes down to the point that Charlie made which is that (indoor) climbing is massive from a participation point of view but still very low from a spectator point of view. This means it doesn't attract nearly the same level of sponsor income that some other sports of a similar size might. So it feels like the main effort needs to be in getting more people to watch it, which the Olympics certainly helps with.
The IFSC might want to consider "selling out" a bit more though. You could totally imagine things like other sports where you might have headline sponsors like the "Red Bull World Cup Circuit", sponsors for individual boulders, sponsor logos on the wall etc.
That being said, there are also other massive sports such as athletics where only the very very top people manage to make a living (unless they happen to be of a nationality that puts a lot of money into their sport).
Listening to Eddie Fowke's stories is always interesting. I can't say that I agree about the old 4 plus rule. Watching Margo Hayes recover for four or five minutes never struck me as exciting theater.
I can see how it amps up the anticipation...but yeah 4 min of anticipation? maybe not haha
Would love to see the 4+ minutes come back!! The 4 minutes is just not as fun. We could limit to 5 min to make sure the schedule can be reasonably followed...
I think the intrigue is in the + rather than just how much time they get, but I see the pros of both!
@@ThatsNotRealClimbingPodcast I think he meant limiting the plus-time to one minute - so you can still pull on at 3:59, but then you have only one more minute to finish the boulder and can't rest for 2 or 3 minutes even if there's a suitable position to do so.
Completely off topic here, but I've wondered about this for a while: You've talked to both route-setters and athletes about the possibility of setters setting for certain climbers/teams. I've always wondered about a much more straightforward way of cheating - what about setters just sharing the beta of the problems with a climber? I can't really see anything preventing a setter from doing that, especially in the future when there is more money in the sport and climbers/trainers/federations could just try to bribe a setter. Maybe you could keep it in mind as a question for one of the next interviews (if you have someone on that might be able to comment on this)?
Also off-topic, but thanks for doing the podcast - I find the interviews and insights into comp-climbing very interesting.