Verdigris Unlocked: One step PERFECTION? Dirty Down first impressions
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- čas přidán 30. 05. 2022
- You asked for it, here we are! Spoiler: This is nearly as good as their rust :)
Dirty Down is available here, if you would like to try it out:
store.artis-opus.com/search?q...
elementgames.co.uk/paints-hob...
We have also tested their other products out!
Their Rust: • Dirty Down: RUST UNLOC...
Their Moss: • Dirty Down: MAGIC MOSS...
How to Strip Miniatures fast (Ultimate Easy Guide): • HOW TO STRIP MINIATURE...
Space Marine tutorials:
Ultramarines (Airbrush + Drybrush + Wash synergy): • How to paint Ultramari...
Dark Angels (high tabletop drybrush armour): • How to paint DARK ANGE...
Salamanders (high tabletop drybrush armour): • How to paint Salamande...
Black Templars (ultra-crisp drybrush+wash armour): • How to Paint BLACK TEM...
Imperial Fists (artistic purple shadow drybrush armour): • INDOMITUS How to paint...
Space Wolves (our take on Space Wolf Grey): • Space Wolves Painting ...
Minis:
Necrons (aged Verdigris scheme): • How to Paint Necrons -...
'Ghostbuster Green' Nighthaunt (Contrast + Washes): • PAINT GHOSTLY MODELS F...
Classic Nighthaunt: • How to Paint Classic N...
Vehicle tutorials:
Space Wolves: • How to Paint Warhammer...
Turquoise Tanks (alpha legion overclocked rhino): • How to Paint a Space M...
Star Wars Legion AAT: • How to paint: AAT Batt...
Large Miniatures:
AMAZING Great unclean one in 3 hours with Drybrushing: • INSANE Great Unclean O...
Fundamental/Basic army level Techniques:
How to Control GW Texture paints (e.g. Agrellan Earth): • GW Texture Paints Unlo...
Black Armour: • PAINT BLACK ARMOUR LIK...
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White 3 ways: • Painting white miniatu...
Gold 3 ways (bonus advanced gold): • How to Paint GOLD: FAS...
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Assembling, converting, and painting Forgeworld (Rogue Idol): • Re-posing an Orruk Rog...
Paint Realistic Flames - with DRYBRUSHING!: • How to Paint FLAMES an...
Chipping using AK Interactive Products: • Easy Chipping effects ...
Terrain:
Glowing 40k/SF Terrain: • How to paint 40K terra...
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Dungeons: • Game Changing MODULAR ...
Grey Walls: • How to paint terrain D...
Upgrade those Grey walls with enamel washes in 3 quick steps!: • Upgrade ANY terrain in...
Glowing Green GHOST WALL: • Drybrush Striking Glow...
Synthwave Purple/Pink Wall: • Drybrush Fluorescent G...
Yellow Shipping Container: • PAINTING YELLOW MADE E...
Texture paint (agrellan) Basing Drybrush Scheme tutorials:
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Cracked Lava Base: • How to Paint Volcanic/...
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Basing Tutorials:
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Build a Scenic Base fast (with greenstuff and a rock!): • BUILD a better base fo...
Paint your Scenic Base - Spooky Basing: • How to Paint a Moonlit...
Limestone Basing: • How to base miniatures...
In this video Byron’s using the Artis Opus Brushes!
Series D: These high-quality brushes are perfectly designed for stippling, smudging, drybrushing, buffing, and even edge-highlighting. store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series S - The perfect point, the ideal everyday brush: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series M - Shorter heads for precision detailing: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
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XL Series D: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Accessories (brush racks, cleaner, pallets): store.artis-opus.com/
Music: Bensounds
#ArtisOpus #SeriesD #Drybrushing
The best way to dillute it is pure alcohol. If you use water you activate the chemical process in the paint.
After the paint is on the model and starts activating you can use water to increase the effect and move the paint around.
🧠
This looks to be super-useful, copying it to the pinned comment, thanks so much!
giga brain
Isopropyl Alcohol is also the best way i've found to clean brushes after using this stuff. It has a tendency to cake even after rinsing, so a couple dunks in IPA immediately dissolves it.
@@Ljaysauz doesn't IPA also dissolve any acrylic paint job underneath?
I just used this on my knight abominant, applied a heavy coat and allowed to dry then a fine mist spray of water and allowed it to dry naturally. Got some lovely random patterns
O_o, I could mist through the airbrush!
A1 comment, getting copied in now! :)
More ideas on how to use these effects would be great. Thanks for these demonstrations, they are really helpful.
My pleasure, you'll definitely be getting demos in the future, I love it! :D
Lovely! Ill have to pick this up for my thermic plasma pipes as well as the rust version of it
Not really a fan of verdigris usually, but this turned out great!
Oh and yes, more "inside info" regarding the products will be appreciated. (-:
Noted dude, we'll work out how best to fit them in :). We'll probably do pure videos for showcases/new releases, but include little segments on WIP stuff in other tutorials/videos.
Nice, you took my suggestion to check this one out next!
And boy, was it fun! :)
Very helpful! Cheers!
Most welcome, my dude :)
Great video, would love to see if you do a video with this and the rust combination.
If you want to seal it with a clear coat, use an enamel based one. it will still dull it down slightly, but nothing like acrylic clear coat will. Iv found it works best when you layer it when it’s very warm ( I often put the bottle in a cup of warm water) as the cooling process seems to really cause the best looking changes in its appearance
Definitely want to see the follow-up on how the creator thinks they're used best.
From what friend told me, Dirty Down has been used for ageing film props and stuff like that for quite a while so it might be worth your time to browse channels that deal with that, see if they have any ideas on how this product is best utilised.
It has dude, since Star wars! The inventor is lovely, and the concept of taking his knowledge (based on large stuff, props, film sets, etc) and testing it on tiny scale is an interesting one!
Yes, continue to show us possible techniques with the dirty down products. I got my set of three about a month ago and have been experimenting ever since. They really are some great products. -Rick, USMC
Awesome, so glad you like them, dude :)
I like how it's covered over the surface of the pillar with it's turquoise, it's a bit contrast. The recess in the written scription gives it that age weathered effect there. I'll have to look for these weathering effect paints in my local store. Thank you for showing us.
You're most welcome dude! They're not widely stocked, if you don't find them both the links in the vid/pinned comment ship worldwide :)
That turned out great. I find the Verdigris the easiest of the three effects paints to use and get instantly good results. Rather than wiping it off, I've been brushing back on highlights to show where the verdigris has been rubbed away.
I still have poor results with the Moss after several tries--basically, just green paint, or with applying water, just milky-green paint--and I would love to see a follow up with the designer's advice about techniques, pitfalls, whether applying blow-dryer heat causes any adverse reactions, and how to know when you just have a bad bottle!
Appreciate your vids!
Appreciate you watching!
I've had all 3 bottles for a few weeks just haven't had time to play with them yet.
Awesome vid as per usual bud 👌
Oh man, you wait! :D
@@ArtisOpus I've got 5 days off just over week away and my other half brought me the Chaos knight set, so it'll time to play with them then 😆👌
yes pls more videos on this with commentary from the maker!!
I'll be taking plenty of notes when we speak!
Ok, that actually looks amazing.
I Really want to get this to try some verdigrised bronze Necrons.
Maybe there's something you can dilute it with so it can be used like panel liner?
I just got the set in this last week so am super looking forward to finding excuses to use it!
Terrain-time? It's so much fun on big stuff :D or anything mechanical.
I actually think that your least favourite attempt 6:18 is the best! The weathering is streaky and grimy, focussed around the very top and becomes heavier towards the bottom. That the very top of the runic section of the pillar is slightly free of the effect works really well, it makes sense that it'd be slightly more sheltered than the rest.
Thanks for doing such a thorough show case, I really need to consider whether it's going to be what I want on my death guard now.
I chatted to the guy who makes the boxes at salute quite a lot (he's super passionate!), and getting his thoughts on product design and how you guys test everything was awesome - so I'd love to see more of that sort of stuff. Still hoping for the same foam bottom as is on the qubes on the brush boxes ;). I put little foam feet on mine though.
Big guy? That's Chris, he is as talented as he is passionate
i find this one the most fiddly out of the three but still love it.
Interesting... That is the moss for me, k need more practice!
Looks amazing! Think this would be interesting to add to my Death Guard.
Can't wait to see those Blood Angels! :)
Thanks, Justin! Yeah it would, it's a great way to get a different colour in there!
I'd love to see further tips on these please sir
Thanks! I'll make sure to take notes when I chat to the creator, really curious if they'll be applicable to miniatures.
My experience was much different than I have seen elsewhere.
Warmed the Dirty Down. Shook and shook and shook. Then I used a mixing stick and it was all liquid no clumps. Warmed the miniature ( bell painted with among other things P3 Molten Bronze) with a hair dryer.
First attempt: Painted on fairly thickly. Pretty much looked black and stayed black. Used the hair dryer some more. Still stayed black. Used water to wipe away. Still black except one tiny patch that was painted more thinly than the rest.
Second attempt: Rinsed off miniature. Rewarmed miniature and Dirty Down. Reshook. Painted on thinly. Tried more hairdryer. Still mostly black. I little more effect but still black. Tried more wiping with wet q-tip. Still not that good.
Accidental third attempt: Decided to give up and had already brought out the old Vallejo verdigris colors. Cleaned off model. Didn't quite get it all and cleaned it again. Left the miniature to dry. When I came back there was nice subtle verdigris around the top of the bell on some of the edges of the embossed emblems and other decorative raised edging.
I had originally pictured something more completely weathered as the final result, but this just starting to be worn look is pretty nice and I put the Vallejo paints away.
Not sure what went wrong on the first 2 attempts and not sure if the final result is replicable, but I do like where it ended.
Thanks for third video. If a Chaos Knight is to big, maybe a piece of industrial scenery can show all 3 effects together.
I love scenery, this sounds perfect.
Bronze + Iron statue could do it nicely?
@@ArtisOpus Or part of a Industrial Ruin Building for battle field. An old statue would also be fine.
Would love a video with creator getting his opinion or demo of how he suggests using it. Great video
Would love a video on how you paint canopies of fighters/mechs etc
As in paint them like they're glass, Dave?
Thanks, I will be taking notes when we talk!
@@ArtisOpus yes. I seen how battletech painters do it but was curious how you tackle it
Man I gotta get my hands on that. I love verdigris as an idea but actually painting it so it looks good usually ends up taking insane amounts of time or just doesn't work for one reason or another.
Yeah dude, just cross your fingers, slap it on, and let variance do it's thing! If you don't like it: wet cloth!
this stuff is awesome!. I'd be curious to see if you could mix this or either of the other two dirty down products with some other paints to get a slightly different colour/effect. And behind the scenes yes please. Could do a short behind the scenes clip at the end of a vlog? quick little teaser of something to whet the whistle.
I´d suggest going for some flow improver or apply the verdigris directly from the bottle. Or maybe mix the paint in the pot with some flow improver. I probably wouldn´t use a brush for this kind of paint, I think an aquarel pen might be better for this. Maybe try a spray bottle with water to activate the curing process.
It's a great effect but an absolute terror on brushes, that said it is far easier to get it out of a more expensive sable brush than it is a synthetic one which seemed to just gum up immediately - almost like I was painting with fast drying pva glue. Got it all out of the sable, the synthetic handles ok now (it's my cheap slap this or that on brush) though it has a few stubborn fibres still with a layer of the verdigris on here and there.
Magical
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️! :D
Absolutely brilliant colour, but I'm not sure about the hazzle of applying it
.edit - Great first try / breakdown though, love that you try stuff so we know what to do / not to do :D
I've found with all 3 of the dirtydown paints the best method is to slap it on thick, let it dry then reactivate it with water and wick some away after.
Awesome, did you find it the same for the moss?
Have you used it? Where should we try it? Give us your tips and tricks, and we'll copy them into this pinned comment!
Dirty Down is available here, if you would like to try it out:
store.artis-opus.com/search?q=dirty+down&options%5Bprefix%5D=last
elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/dirty-down
Corkey •
I just used this on my knight abominant, applied a heavy coat and allowed to dry then a fine mist spray of water and allowed it to dry naturally. Got some lovely random patterns
chikhai •
Of all the Dirty Down products, the verdigris is probably the least forgiving.
I've used it on a lot of terrain now and the key things to remember are as follows:
Don't dilute it as you use it. As with all the Dirty Down products, this stuff reacts with water, but using it diluted it with water as you're applying it creates issues. Only use water after the fact, ie wiping it down with a dampened cloth.
For the cloth, find some micro fibre dust cloths on Amazon. Not the ones you use to clean phones/glasses, more so the ones that fit into floor mops. You can get 200 for about a tenner. J cloths are great, but they can leave fibres behind and they can be quite abrasive if you're not careful. Abrasion + water + reactivating acrylic paint isn't a good combo.
Use this stuff sparingly. As I said, of the trio of bottled products (rust, moss and verdigris); this one is the least forgiving. Thin coats is where its at. You can apply it through an airbrush, but you're looking at doing it in one pass. This stuff clogs your tip way faster than acrylics ever will, but you can use it neat straight out of the bottle in your airbrush without thinning (just boost your PSI up a little).
Don't use brushes with natural bristles when using any Dirty Down stuff. Use the cheapest, dirtiest synthetic brushes you can. I don't know exactly what the formula is for this stuff (I suspect theres alcohol involved), but this stuff knackers brushes faster than anything I've ever used before. Even enamels. This stuff will get right into the ferrule and disintegrate your brush while you're using it in one sitting. Those brush sets from the likes of The Works or Home Bargains are great for this stuff, because you're basically looking at a knackered brush after a couple of sessions.
As much of a pain in the arse to use as these things are, they're liquid talent once you get used to the nuances of them. A bit of a steep learning curve initially, but worth it.
K T •
The best way to dillute it is pure alcohol. If you use water you activate the chemical process in the paint.
After the paint is on the model and starts activating you can use water to increase the effect and move the paint around.
I've found that spraying Dirty Down products with water from an airbrush or one of those spray bottles you'd use to spray water on a plant etc. can give some good results. I'm going to have a play around with replacing the water with IP.A soon, to see if it changes the way the product behaves.
Selective medium thick application with no water, no rubbing, no brushing later, turns out best for me by far. You should do a stage where you don’t touch it and you don’t add anything to it.
Thanks for offering these in your shop and shipping to the EU, had a bad experience ordering the Rust and Moss ones from Element Games, dealing with import fees and stuff (entirely my fault, not theirs). Just ordered a pot of this one via your store to complete the set :)
Edit: Still had to pay import fees :/ easily the three most expensive paints in my collection now, better figure out a way to make them worth it...
Thanks, Tingles! I hope it serves you well :)
Thanks for the vid Byron. Would love to see a vid about the creator of the product, have their insights.
Amazing, I will take plenty of notes when we speak :)
When I saw the price of this stuff in your store I #spitcoffee and hit ADD TO CART. I've been searching for a good place to buy this for a while and on ebay it's been listed for like $20+ per bottle. Thanks for carrying these!
Does varnish work well enough to prevent future water reactivation, or does it have weird interactions?
Great vid as usual!! This product seems very cool😉 I really enjoy the verdigris and to make it on my model I usually spend very long time, making a lot of step😅 this product could be very useful😎 A video with your thoughts after few week could be very interesting💪🏻💪🏻 maybe you could use this “magical trio” (rust, moss and verdigris) on a Chaos knight😏😏 the new Artis Opus stuff is just amazing!!! Please bring Artis Opus on Italy!! I have to order everything from England and since UK left the EU this means a very long shipping time😞
A knight... Well they are amazing, but so big! Maybe that would speed it up, to be fair... Now you've got me thinking!
How long did your order take to get to italy? Our couriers are quite fast generally.
@@ArtisOpus maybe a wardog could be more fast!! Last time that I’ve made an order from AO or Element games it took more than one month to be delivered (after several problems with the Royal Mail services)… but next week l’ll be in London for some business, can I find an AO retailer??
This would be great for runes.
A few people have said that, it is almost exactly the space wolf TM glowy rune colour
That is damn fast for the results!
I know, right?! It's a properly amazing tool to have in your arsenal!
How about combining all three products on a death guard model? Perhaps a Crawler so you can show off some dry brushing as well?
I think you should try the green stuff world oxidizer it's great . Do are a few of their other products
Thanks for the heads up!
Thanks for the science Byron, I have made a purchase of this one to go with the rust. I'm not sold on the moss compared to Luke @ geek gaming's moss paste though.
Would love to hear what the maker of these products has to say about how to use them.
Amazing, hope they work out well for you! I will definitely be taking notes when I talk with him, hopefully he's got some useful tips!
wow love it, can you explain how you paint the column?
It's explained at the beginning :) any more questions LMK
Does it help to put it over a varnish layer like with oil washes?
I want to make a munch of Necrons with a verdigris affect. I wonder how this would work with a tarnished bronze color for a submerged effect.
Hey Byron, I love the vis, would you consider doing a video on Resin? I really wanna make water/blood/lava bases but i'm scared
Resin water effects are actually pretty simple, especially when dealing with small areas... What, specifically, are you wanting to accomplish?
Can we apply varnish on this? Some reviewers said that it cannot .
always heat the model and the pot with a hairdryer till its warm to the touch
How much of a difference would you say this makes, dude?
@@ArtisOpus quite a decent amount makes the rust one for example look alot more dry and well rusty as if it couldn't flake off but won't
I'm super late but something I noticed is that MY pot of dirty-gris does NOT have the same set of instructions. I don't know if that's a difference between UK and US product labeling or if I got a later production run but my bottle says to store AND use at room temp. It also has no listed information on how the product dries and looks in thick or thin coats. It simply says to shake, paint, and that it will eventually dry. I don't know why this is the case, but it just shows the importance of research into products before use! Someone buying this off the shelf without seeing this video first wouldn't know that a warm paint and surface affect the end result.
very impressive results
one question: the column used comes from which manufacturer?
It's a GW AOS Scenery piece :)
Do you varnish your models first, before you use Dirty Down products ?? . Brilliant video 👍
You can do, but not for protection from the product, as much as the ease of removal if you want to play with it after :). So yes!
Tell us more about these products, please.
Will do, dude, I shall be taking notes when I speak with the owner :)
What about padding or wiping with sponge after application?
You absolutely could, it's all about finding something with the right profile, that doesn't absorb stuff too much from the recesses.
How about a video for "3 ways to do water effects"?
Have you tried to varnish over the dirty downs products?
I haven't, but I have it on good authority you want to use Ultra-matte :)
It would have been great to compare this with Nihilakh Oxide from Citadel. Do you know what the difference is, apart from the price!?
Hey dude, apologies for C&P, it's a popular question though!
It's entirely different, it dries with variation in colours, about 4-5 shades easily viewable, you get a pretty techy looking result for a single step process. Theirs is more predictable, and consistent, but that could be a plus, or a minus, depending on your viewpoint.
I could well make a video though, side by side is helpful with this stuff.
Do you recon it could be used for the glow of space wolves runes
You could probably get away with it, the only issue would be the variation, but i think thinned it's always 'minty' :D
Is this an attempt to create oxidized metal? Looks good to me, I have been looking for something to represent that.
Yeah it it :). It's one of the best quick solutions out there!
I've been testing all three and I can't seem to get the Verdigris to work as well as the other 2. I've been laying it on, then it has no effect, so I use water in the areas I want the minty effect, but the problem I'm running into is it will activate sometimes and not others 😮💨. I haven't tried using a hairdryer yet and that appears to really make it work. Also someone said thin it with alcohol so I might try that as well.
P.S. one thing I've notices is the more you layer it on top of itself the less it wants to activate 🤷♂️
Interesting stuff! Do check out the suggestions from others, we've had some amazing input :)
How does this compare to GWs nihalakh oxide?
It's entirely different, it dries with variation in colours, about 4-5 shades easily viewable, you get a pretty techy looking result for a single step process. Theirs is more predictable, and consistent, but that could be a plus, or a minus, depending on your viewpoint.
Is there a way to varnish dirtydown without it reactivating?
Ultra matte :)
You should try using all three products on a Death Guard model, going for a really good grimdark look
That's a great suggestion! Death Guard are in Horus Heresy, right? :D
It looks great, but real verdigris on a bronze column like that would make it look mottled green and black. Verdigris appears from contact with the air, so the whole surface would be corroded. The bronze yellow would only be peeking out where the corrosion was worn down by frequent handling or deliberate polishing.
I think you can get pretty much the same effect from painting the entire surface minty green and then drybrush bronze on the worn places. Never tried it, though.
Does it stink or is it like acrylic paints?
Fix the spots on your wall! i thought i had a very dirty monitor and no mather how much i tried to clean my screen with a tissue the spots are in your end ;D
I found you have to stir the heck out of this stuff AND shake it. Also this stuff reacts to water so I wouldn't thin it with water.
Obviously, you personally are not concerned with the effects of their special effect paints on your paint brush (you probably have tons of them) but would you agree to not use these brushes for them, maybe cheapo craft brushes instead?
Hey dude, as noted in the vid it's my 'sad' brush that got used :D. It's a very ancient S5, which has been being used with abusive paints for about 2 years, it's in amazing condition considering!
Alpha legion please.
We got you ;)
That little bottle cost me $30 at my local store. I bought all 3 . Im sad now my wallet hates me .
But your minis love you? (Hopefully!). Put them to use man, they're magic, and you'll feel a lot better about it :)
Dammit, stop streaming when I''m cycling 🥺
Haaaaa! Dangerous multi-tasking, hope we were OK on catch-up :)
@@ArtisOpus Glazing miniatures on 40mph decent gives some interesting effects. Realistic collision damage is only one of them.
Why does my comment keep disappearing?
Dirty Down comes in 250ml bottles for £35 instead of 25ml for £8.
No idea mate! It does, these currently don't exist globally at a supplier level though, the moment they do they will be on EG and AO.
@@ArtisOpus oh right, that's weird because I got a 250ml bottle of each (I got mine from a prop makers site rather than a hobbyist site which may be why I got some). I tried to post a link but that comment disappeared so I removed the link to repost and that one dissapeared too. Very odd. Really enjoying your videos, chap.
That's good to know, I've got an entire set of Necromunda terrain I want to get this effect on and 25ml wouldn't do even half of it!
That's a very interesting tutorial, very good. I like it. But: Why does Artis Opus paint so much Warhammer? That is really boring and monotonous. There's tons of other models out there which are not only superior, but also a lot more interesting. And most important, painting them is very different from painting Warhammer models. How about you take a look at some Corvus Belli Infinity models or GCT Bushido? Or some of the Archon and WizKids Starfinder models? I think that would go a long way.
Why does the world buy so much Warhammer? We genuinely try and make the tutorials which will help our techniques reach the most people, which within our industry means GW.
Also, speaking honestly the technical quality of the miniatures is a huge deal for us (me), drybrushing and washes show up bad casting, or inferior level stuff extremely quick, seal lines highlight themselves!
I have an extremely high opinion of the Star Wars Legion kits, they're plastic, amazingly designed, and actually enjoyable to build, it's why they've featured a couple of times.
If you have any particular suggestions that tick the above boxes (Tech Quality, in demand) we're all ears!
@@ArtisOpus fair argument, but i think GW is over represented. Corvus Belli Infinity miniatures and GCT Bushido miniatures are both of really good quality. They're metal miniatures though. Still would love to see your techniques and stuff used on them as well as respective terrain.
Love your wall painting videos!
@@hayatoken2192 Thanks man, nice that we have the type of viewers who discuss this stuff and suggest it!
Scale is another thing, 'Truescale' with tiny hands etc is more difficult to paint and record, especially with speed techniques, we can't all be like Angel Giraldez 😅. I will have a look at the ranges though, and see if anything stands out, we aren't against a test or two!
Thanks for your input dude, always appreciated!
@@ArtisOpus my pleasure! Thanks for making good video tutorials!