I imagine in this particular case the owner was trying to build this place with cost effectiveness. I can't believe they didn't have any concrete in thow blocks or rebar. I would be surprised if there was any ladder wire. In michigan we could not put that cap on there without an anchored wood sill plate either. Nice work and video on your end though sir.
Really clean detail! I installed a similar trim over the top of a parapet wall on a project we recently did. Now I know what you call it. Thanks for sharing your craft. Very nice!!
Another joint method is splice plate with sealant bead under to keep 1/8 gap in coping finished with cover plate. Nice work great idea on the end cap, entry points are always a challenge.
Everything is possible. The standing seam we do with 29 ga. But you probably have the strongest hands. When you do that next time try to shoot a video!
clean work, but you need a pressure treated wood cap first, pitched to the inside. I'm sure this wall has a ton of efflorescence now from moisture/ condensation getting under the aluminum and dropping down into the cmu
I guess you are not worried about expansion and contraction, regardless whether it's 28 or 24 gauge. That is not a watertight system. A 3/8's hem with a piece of drive on your joints would make it a watertight system without exposed fasteners. You can caulk the joints all you want....but eventually the sealant will fail.
ok! Hem lock on coping is good or even better- standing seam! and i was using that system in Canada but with 29 GA steel or 0.20 aluminum. Could you tell me where can i find any video with 24 GA steel and hem lock? The material we work with has a Kynar finish which is very easy to scratch and when you have a scratched coping on the roof top deck, its always a question from the customer.
Wow. No tabs on your inside corner. No wood under the coping or water barrier. One bead of caulking under the cover plate and in the wrong place. Should've used tapcons instead of drive pins. And where are your offset snips?
No flashing, no closers, no dpm, no rendering, no rebar, this is what I call an ultimate low cost job. This is obviously not a aluminium coping 'system' just aluminium copings. Not something i'd build for my house.
I like that finish piece u put on the miter
such an excellent, clean job. thank you for sharing your talent and craft! so refreshing to see a job well done
Boss like myself uses Midwest snips
I imagine in this particular case the owner was trying to build this place with cost effectiveness. I can't believe they didn't have any concrete in thow blocks or rebar. I would be surprised if there was any ladder wire. In michigan we could not put that cap on there without an anchored wood sill plate either. Nice work and video on your end though sir.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to post it!!
Great video! Very helpful. I was searching for how to do this but didn't know it was called coping. Now I know!
Отличная работа! Полезное видео , спасибо👍👍👍👍👍👍
Really clean detail! I installed a similar trim over the top of a parapet wall on a project we recently did. Now I know what you call it. Thanks for sharing your craft. Very nice!!
Another joint method is splice plate with sealant bead under to keep 1/8 gap in coping finished with cover plate. Nice work great idea on the end cap, entry points are always a challenge.
Thank you so much for the great video Mr. That final cap on the seams looks much better than under.
Great video. Thanks.man
I love to use Midwest snips they are the best to me
I have installed standing seam corners on 22g Kynar finish with a seam cleat wind clip many times. 24g is child’s play. Pretty standard in B.C.
Everything is possible. The standing seam we do with 29 ga. But you probably have the strongest hands. When you do that next time try to shoot a video!
Nice work
clean work, but you need a pressure treated wood cap first, pitched to the inside. I'm sure this wall has a ton of efflorescence now from moisture/ condensation getting under the aluminum and dropping down into the cmu
Why you didn't install flashing ? That silicone caulking will dry up and water will be flowing inside the cavity of the wall.
How come no s-lock and stand up seam at corners? No sloped plywood on n top of the block?
Do you do standing seam and s- lock on 24 ga steel with kynar finish? I would like to see that
I guess you are not worried about expansion and contraction, regardless whether it's 28 or 24 gauge. That is not a watertight system. A 3/8's hem with a piece of drive on your joints would make it a watertight system without exposed fasteners. You can caulk the joints all you want....but eventually the sealant will fail.
ok! Hem lock on coping is good or even better- standing seam! and i was using that system in Canada but with 29 GA steel or 0.20 aluminum. Could you tell me where can i find any video with 24 GA steel and hem lock? The material we work with has a Kynar finish which is very easy to scratch and when you have a scratched coping on the roof top deck, its always a question from the customer.
We install 24 gauge cap with 22 gauge cleat in Canada. S-lock joints with hidden fasteners and standing seam corners.
😊👍
Hey friend, how often do you put screws or nails?
if the piece is 10' i put one in the middle and sides are held by the seam covers ( so technically every 5 ft)
@@LeftoverCA thank you very much friend just tomorrow I start the project. Blessings
Midwest snips are by far superior than any other brand
what's with the magic wooden post at 8.05 ???
;-)) its still there!
how much do you charge per foot?
i dont know the prices currently but to order material is about $4.50/ft
Clean
Boss like myself uses Midwest snips
I see there alot of jokers in the comment section 🤣 Thanks for the video man ! Good info
Wow. No tabs on your inside corner. No wood under the coping or water barrier. One bead of caulking under the cover plate and in the wrong place. Should've used tapcons instead of drive pins. And where are your offset snips?
Standing seam or bust.
Would have been better to do a standing seam and wrap your dog ears instead of cutting them now you have an easy way for water to get in.
can you manufacturer your own cleet and copping from just buying materials for Home Depot?
No flashing, no closers, no dpm, no rendering, no rebar, this is what I call an ultimate low cost job. This is obviously not a aluminium coping 'system' just aluminium copings. Not something i'd build for my house.
Are you hurt?😅😆
Wow. No bondbeam or any reinforcement at all it looks like. Fail.
28 ga that’s nothing you can do standing seam
You probably did not see the whole video. I corrected myself- it’s 24 ga .
Still can be done
Where is that accent from????
Ukraine
To hard you do it i m no easy way
I will appreciate if you just show how you do it and no talk
That’s what the volume control is for. 🧐 your welcome!