Consider making a makeshift air pressure regulator valve since you will not have any air flowing through the cowl. Without it this could cause booming sound when only one window is rolled down.
Hmmm. Interesting. I fully intend to "rough assemble" the car and put some miles on it before powder coating and paint and all that. Hopefully an issue like that would surface during the testing stage.
is that why the dodge LX cars are so bad ( gives me a headache and hurts my ears ) as in the 2005 300 i always remember to not do that my 1966-71 charger doesn't have that problem with it but my understanding is the air-system/OE cowl can trap moisture and debris and invite pests and it's beeping im possible to clean it as a finished body/car
I dont know if your doing this but you need to tac weld each side like 4-6 tac welds before you actually weld this is to prevent warp-age.. so you tac weld it then weld it on top of your tac weld
So my approach thus far has been to cool each tack weld with an air gun and cool the panel and weld after each time. Granted, this means many hundreds of welds and taking the time to cool each one. As best I can tell, I haven't seen any significant warpage thus far. Wish me luck!
Hmmm. Idk. I'm terrified that it won't look right. At the EOD you're splitting this up into several sections that all tie into each other. In some cases, stock sheet metal goes between the sections. I'd rather go to the extra trouble to make it all a stock profile than weld it in place, paint the car, and realize it doesn't look right. I suppose if I were more experienced with this, I might do that, but frankly, I only half-way know what I'm doing.
@@RedlineStands so how do you plan on getting the "vent setting" iv considered doing this to my car to keep the rust/BS away ( known problem area's and ford 1960-75 has the same potential issue's ) but i like outdoor fresh air from the nose of the 1968 dodge charger the oe lines i can pinstripe so it looks at a glance it's stock your idea sounds like you might have a stale-air and or mold/mildew problem
@@richardprice5978 So the car will be an air conditioned car, so bringing in constant fresh air isn't really something I'm worried about. The side air will typically be dry air as you'll use the AC a lot here in Florida. The rest of the time it'll be stored indoors. Will it mold and mildew? Idk. Maybe. I may very well find myself having to keep my shop climate controlled year round just to keep my interior from growing. The seats to the car already sit on the floor of my shop and sometimes they start growing just from the Florida humidity. I can tell you that all the high-end 67 Nova builds enclose the cowl, so I'm just following what I see the professionals doing.
@@RedlineStands would having them as flaps like a 1934-ford cowl and or moving front window or front door side indent as iv considered adding the radiatior's in like the 1960's bill/richard/mopar clay model has aka solid with top-seals-under-the-lids so if its parked or raining/snowy it keeps the FOM out, or use my turbocharger intake after the filtration but before added liquids aka gasoline? better of the 3 ? idea's max theoretical speed is 150 mph as you probably know that above 55MPH aero starts to matters more. i don't generally like driving above 60 but that's because of a low-speed crash/twister i was in/PSTD but still wish the usa 🇺🇸 had some autobahn stretches hadn't noticed your in Florida/costal id though without paint your car would have flash rusted, i figured it was in California or somewhere like southern LA climate wise
would it be better to use a piece longer than what you need weld across the bottom then skip back and forth from side to side then when you come to the top use your cut off wheel and plunge cut through both pieces then weld across the top no beating necessary and im still subbed to your channel from a while ago
So the kicker here is that this panel is curved in two directions, not one. If you make one long piece, it's got the profile you see, but then it must also curve and contour around the windshield as well. This is why I've chosen to do it in several pieces. I think the pro's could probably do one solid long piece, but not I.
Uh, no fresh air at all? You know I'm no rocket scientist, but even new cars let in fresh air and vent out cabin air for a reason. And they all have air conditioning. Good luck keeping your windows from fogging up in the rain.
I'm not worried about that at all. If you saw how these things were constructed, you'd quickly see the entire car is one huge fresh air vent. It can literally come in from dozens of places. Thank you for the concern and valid point though.
@@oliver_klozoff yep gm/ford bif't in the 70's more so on the full flowing fan on all the time probably mostly because it wasn't setup right and or drained the battery and stopped working and invented mold or at a stop light it may give you a headache from sucking outside air in the cars and others exhaust fumes
Use heat to soften the metal prior to working it. You got this!
That is exactly what I though use a cutting torch to blow torch to heat it up so its easy to stretch and no need to shave metal off.
Thanks for showing how you alleviated the cowl vents...now I'm going to do that on my Vega!
Glad to help sir.
Great work around!👍🏼
Good luck 👍
Consider making a makeshift air pressure regulator valve since you will not have any air flowing through the cowl. Without it this could cause booming sound when only one window is rolled down.
Hmmm. Interesting. I fully intend to "rough assemble" the car and put some miles on it before powder coating and paint and all that. Hopefully an issue like that would surface during the testing stage.
is that why the dodge LX cars are so bad ( gives me a headache and hurts my ears ) as in the 2005 300 i always remember to not do that my 1966-71 charger doesn't have that problem with it but my understanding is the air-system/OE cowl can trap moisture and debris and invite pests and it's beeping im possible to clean it as a finished body/car
I appreciate you sharing what you've learned sweetie, very informative. I'm a total noob to welding, but I'd like to get better too. :)
LOL. Thank you dear. Surprised and pleased to find ladies watching my dood-content.
@@RedlineStands oh yeah, been watching you for a while now. Love your stuff.
@@ariyanadumon4549 Welcome to the channel. I make this stuff for fun and not because it's my living, so it doesn't get the attention I wish it did.
@@RedlineStands thank you darlin. Sometimes fun projects teach us the most.
you may have rushed to welding ,not letting it cool enough to prevent warp-age !
I dont know if your doing this but you need to tac weld each side like 4-6 tac welds before you actually weld this is to prevent warp-age.. so you tac weld it then weld it on top of your tac weld
So my approach thus far has been to cool each tack weld with an air gun and cool the panel and weld after each time. Granted, this means many hundreds of welds and taking the time to cool each one. As best I can tell, I haven't seen any significant warpage thus far. Wish me luck!
What not just make that the new profile of that part of the vehicle?
Hmmm. Idk. I'm terrified that it won't look right. At the EOD you're splitting this up into several sections that all tie into each other. In some cases, stock sheet metal goes between the sections. I'd rather go to the extra trouble to make it all a stock profile than weld it in place, paint the car, and realize it doesn't look right. I suppose if I were more experienced with this, I might do that, but frankly, I only half-way know what I'm doing.
Hello,do you know how water is normally prevented from entering into the vehicle with the cowl vent arrangement that they used?
It didn't. It was allowed to flow in from the top and out the bottom down by the bottom of the front fenders.
@@RedlineStands so how do you plan on getting the "vent setting" iv considered doing this to my car to keep the rust/BS away ( known problem area's and ford 1960-75 has the same potential issue's ) but i like outdoor fresh air from the nose of the 1968 dodge charger the oe lines i can pinstripe so it looks at a glance it's stock
your idea sounds like you might have a stale-air and or mold/mildew problem
@@richardprice5978 So the car will be an air conditioned car, so bringing in constant fresh air isn't really something I'm worried about. The side air will typically be dry air as you'll use the AC a lot here in Florida. The rest of the time it'll be stored indoors. Will it mold and mildew? Idk. Maybe. I may very well find myself having to keep my shop climate controlled year round just to keep my interior from growing. The seats to the car already sit on the floor of my shop and sometimes they start growing just from the Florida humidity. I can tell you that all the high-end 67 Nova builds enclose the cowl, so I'm just following what I see the professionals doing.
@@RedlineStands would having them as flaps like a 1934-ford cowl and or moving front window or front door side indent as iv considered adding the radiatior's in like the 1960's bill/richard/mopar clay model has aka solid with top-seals-under-the-lids so if its parked or raining/snowy it keeps the FOM out, or use my turbocharger intake after the filtration but before added liquids aka gasoline? better of the 3 ? idea's
max theoretical speed is 150 mph as you probably know that above 55MPH aero starts to matters more. i don't generally like driving above 60 but that's because of a low-speed crash/twister i was in/PSTD but still wish the usa 🇺🇸 had some autobahn stretches
hadn't noticed your in Florida/costal id though without paint your car would have flash rusted, i figured it was in California or somewhere like southern LA climate wise
@@RedlineStands czcams.com/video/WteGgqZoVfg/video.html gm's goof ball failed system
would it be better to use a piece longer than what you need weld across the bottom then skip back and forth from side to side then when you come to the top use your cut off wheel and plunge cut through both pieces then weld across the top no beating necessary and im still subbed to your channel from a while ago
So the kicker here is that this panel is curved in two directions, not one. If you make one long piece, it's got the profile you see, but then it must also curve and contour around the windshield as well. This is why I've chosen to do it in several pieces. I think the pro's could probably do one solid long piece, but not I.
Uh, no fresh air at all? You know I'm no rocket scientist, but even new cars let in fresh air and vent out cabin air for a reason. And they all have air conditioning. Good luck keeping your windows from fogging up in the rain.
I'm not worried about that at all. If you saw how these things were constructed, you'd quickly see the entire car is one huge fresh air vent. It can literally come in from dozens of places. Thank you for the concern and valid point though.
@@RedlineStands point taken. On an average car though blocking these is a bad idea.
@@oliver_klozoff yep gm/ford bif't in the 70's more so on the full flowing fan on all the time probably mostly because it wasn't setup right and or drained the battery and stopped working and invented mold or at a stop light it may give you a headache from sucking outside air in the cars and others exhaust fumes
How about heat then hammer
If you're okay with major warpage, yes sir, that is an option.
I would never do that.😳🙄