MK4 VW CV Axle Removal and Installation
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
- This Steve's Garage video is a complete guide to replace your CV axles on any MKIV VW car. This will work for MK4 Golfs, Jettas, and Beetles. The car I'm working on is a 1.8t 5spd, so the sizes of the hardware may be a bit different if you're working on a different engine and transmission. I believe that axles used on the VR6 cars are larger, and axles on the TDI and 2.0 are smaller. Please double check the size of your hardware before diving into replacing cv axles on your MK4 VW. I used Raxles for my replacement CV axles, but this guide will work for any brand axle. That being said, if you are lowered, or tired of blowing axles on your MK4 Golf, Jetta, or Beetle, I highly recommend Raxles CV axles. They're great quality and come with a lifetime warranty!
Check this website out for the exact axles I used - www.raxles.com/
My method for removing and installing CV axles is a little different than some other guides you see for mk4 VWs. Rather than remove the ball joint, I separate the spindle from the strut. In my opinion this method is a lot easier, and doesn't require an alignment when you're finished! If you live in a snow state, you're also more likely to be able to separate the spindle from the strut without damage, unlike the ball joint. In my experience the ball joints have to be cut off because they're seized.
Replacing CV axles on a MK4 VW can seem like a daunting task, but you'll see it can be quite simple by following my video. It doesn't even require a ton of advanced tools, so you'll definitely save money by going the DIY route!
As always, I'm not responsible for any damage caused when replacing the axles. Please let me know if you have any questions, I do my best to answer every comment! Don't forget to subscribe if you enjoyed this video!
Steve's Garage Social Media -
/ _steves_garage_
yodl.to/stevesgarage
#stevesgarage #mk4vw #cvaxle
0:00 - Intro
0:29 - Tools You'll Need to Replace MK4 VW CV Axles
2:14 - MK4 VW CV Removal
6:44 - MK4 VW CV Axle Installation - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Please be aware that the car in this video is a 1.8t manual transmission. While the idea/method is the same across the mk4 platform, the specific sizes of things may vary between models. Please double check your sizes before starting work as to not waste your time and money!
any idea if disconnecting the strut spindle gives enough clearance on the passenger side with an auto tranny on a diesel?
@@barnacleburrito3728 It should. The procedure for pretty much every mk4 is pretty similar, it's just the sizes that change. You can disconnect the ball joint or spindle from the strut. Either one should give you the space you need to pull the axle out.
I changed my axle and now my steering wheel is isn’t straight??
@@codycardwell2377 It can knock things out of whack. Go get an alignment.
This was dope, i just pulled my axles on my mk4 vr6, cant wait to get it back on the road!
Glad it helped you out on a VR6 car. Hope you're back on the road soon!
Great video, Nice tip with the screwdriver in the rotor 👍 helped a lot. Even though it was a polo I was working on
That's awesome that it helped you out! We don't get the Polo in the US, so I don't know anything about them mechanically.
Fantastic video - thank you for taking the time to lay out tools required too! 👍
You're welcome, glad you found it useful!
Really well done video. I like that you are very clear and organized and explain the process without going on and on (like the last two videos I watched -well intentioned but wordy). I am about to do the left (USA driver's) side of my '99 New beetle and this is a great review. One tip I had was to break the axle nut loose before you undo the lugnuts - wheel still on the ground. The screwdriver trick is a good one, as i never thought about the cooling vanes, and sticking the screwdriver in between the caliper and the edge of the disc only sort of works. Breaking the axle nut loose and doing final tightening with the wheel on the ground the whole car helps you resist the torque. Worked great on the right side.
Thank you! That's the whole goal of my channel honestly - simple but detailed videos. I'm glad you found it useful. I agree that breaking the axle nut loose with the car on the ground is a great idea, especially if you don't have an impact gun. Just like breaking the lugs loose before you jack up the car. Thanks for the comment, hopefully your NB is back up and working soon!
Great video, much appreciated!!! Just did mine today. Believe this method only works on the driver side. On the passenger side the strut can not drop low enough. I used a hammer to tap in the triple square bit into the bolt, to make double sure they are seated correctly and not stripping. M8 is 40NM, M10 is 70NM, so depends on what you have. Also had to hammer for 30min to get the axle out of the hub, so make sure you have a big/heavy hammer. Heads-up on the sensors was gold, for sure I would have forgotten that. Thank again!!
Glad it helped! I used this method on both the driver and passenger, though I don't really remember if I had trouble with the strut or not - it's been a few years! Damn sensor... that was a rookie move on my part! I'm glad you found the video helpful and you were able to get the job done!
Thank you for the video, I just have to wait until raxle opens back up after the holidays to order them. Feels like I only need the passenger side but I figured I might as well change both as I have quite a few miles on the car. Thank you again for the video.
Glad you liked it! When I replaced these it was only my passenger that had failed, but I like to replace left and right items at the same time. Marty is great, you'll be very happy with the axles.
Got the left side done today and this tutorial is spot on! Couple things though... RAXLES has a 29ftlb value for the 6 flange bolts. Not 59 per the video. I think they would strip out at 59. Also, when it comes to holding the new axle in place to tighten the 6 bolts on the transmission flange, I made a handy jig that holds the axle in place with a 1x4 and a half circle cut out to make a sort of cradle that rests on the lower control arm
Works AWESOME. I can send a pic if you want.
Not sure what happened to my reply... Anyway, I'm glad the video helped, and I'd love to see the jig! Definitely shoot me a photo!
Cool. How do I send a photo on CZcams? Actually I have another question, too. In trying to wrestle the strut back into the steering knuckle I, the axle hit the frame a few times, enough to scrape the paint. Do you think I, damaged the axle? I was pushing down pretty hard.
@@robertartac1853 There's no way for me to positively know, but I doubt you damaged it. I had to bend mine pretty far as well. I just added an email under my about page because I realized I didn't have one. But go ahead and email me at stevervalente@gmail.com!
Yes definitely NOT 59 ft lbs
For a 5 speed, the inner axle bolts are smaller M8, so 29 ft lbs torque. For a 6 speed, the bolts are M10, so 59 ft lbs torque.
Never have i ever seen a CZcamsr actually inform their viewers of when they actuallu started thw installation
Thanks man! Just trying to make videos that I would want to watch. Simple, informative, and no fluff!
@@StevesGarage I love it lol you've got my sub! I love your videos and for the respect I'll always watch the whole video ads and all lol i kniw it helps. Great content looking foward to seeing more
@@darrylblain6256 Good stuff man, I appreciate the sub and watch time of the ads! I don't make a ton, but I've made enough to pay off the cost of the repair on some videos, which is pretty cool! I've got some videos in the backlog that I need to edit. There's more to come!
Great refresher. Just got done installing Function Form type 1 coil overs on my MK4 GTI and I noticed the drivers CV axle boot is shot and joint pops now and then so time to replace.
+LaRueOBR 5.56 Thabk you! If you're low I definitely suggest Raxles. When you order them the owner asks how low the car is so the axles will work perfectly with your set-up. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Dude very well made video brother. High five.
Thank you much for the comment! Glad you found it helpful. Hope your car is back together and driving smoothly!
Just did this job. Just wanted to note that on my MK4 TDI BEW it was an M8 triple square. That cost me a day of waiting because I initially ordered an M10. On the bright side, now I have a whole set just in case.
Thanks for the comment, a few others have said the same. At the time of making/posting the video I didn't realize there were size differences in the hardware between engines. I do have a pinned comment stating this is for the 1.8t and sizes might be different. Unfortunately I can't add a note in the video like you used to be able to do on CZcams. Honestly, having a whole set of triple squares isn't a bad thing if you own a VW!
It’s a lot easier to take ball joint loose..Saves a lot of time,never had a problem
Either way works fine. I've removed ball joints before but sometimes needed an alignment. I just wanted to try and film this alternate method.
Great video! Helped a lot!
ONE IMPORTNANT TIP: No need to unbolt the strut, at least on the driver's side. Turning the wheel outwards (left axle -> turn steering wheel left) and removing the anti-roll bar link was enough to replace the axle. Hope this saves some of you the hustle :)
Thank you! Hopefully I don't have to worry about axles for a while, but this is a great tip for anyone watching the video! Thanks for the comment!
You cannot turn the wheel far enough to the left to remove the axle. Still had to separate the strut from spindle.
@@rocksandticks I managed to do that on my car, so it is doable - I did the whole operation in a random parking lot stuck between two other cars. And I have 0 mechanical skills, I am an econ student. Perhaps there are some differences between US and EU market versions or sth. I don't know, but it's definitely possible.
@@michamerchelski3023 what engine and transmission do you have? Right-hand drive or Left-hand drive?
@@figit090 letf-hand drive, the engine is 1.9 TDI, I assume AHF, ASV type (I don't remember), manual 5-gear transmission
Thanks! saved me an alignment
Alignment is definitely easier and cheaper than axles, but it's always good to spend money on the correct fix!
Putting the nut on the end of the axle before striking is a courtesy to the next person who may pick it up as a rebuild if you intend to return the old axle core. The threads are not always good when you get them because someone was careless. Thanks for making this informative video.
Glad you liked it! You're definitely correct, if there is an axle core, give them the bolts with it. I ordered Raxles, so there was no core, and they came with all new hardware.
This is a great video I also do not have no one to help me I do it all on your knowledge and for your help
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad the video was helpful. Saves a lot of money doing it yourself vs a shop too!
Nice video. It helped me out. But what I did differently was instead of disconnecting the strut-to-spindle bolts, I just disconnected the lower ball-joint-to-lower control arm bolts. There was no balancing act required with re-inserting the axle shaft to the hub from there. Either way you choose, you still need an alignment or you'll see excessive tire wear, as I have tried both methods.
+Noah Forbes Yea thays the typical way to do it. I did the axles in February, and never noticed any issues with the car tracking properly or odd tire wear. I actually just switched to my winter set-up so I took a close look at my summer tires and they didn't wear oddly or too quickly. Maybe I lucked out not needing an alignment.
Very informative!
Glad you liked it, thanks for commenting!
Wonderful video. Please make more VW Golf MK4 videos. Cheers!!
+Debajyoti Majumdar Thank you! Thats the plan, don't forget to sub to keep up to date.
@@StevesGarage sure thing! I plan to do the CV axle replacement myself. So I might have a few questions regarding the same. It would be great if you could help me a little with your experience. Thanks again!
+Debajyoti Majumdar Good luck! I'll do whatever I can to help you out. Just a heads up though, I don't always get notifications for replies, I have to check them manually. If you don't see me reply don't take it personally! If you have an Instagram, that's a better way to contact me for questions.
With the passenger side axle you can just remove the axle nut and the flange bolts and actually wiggle the axle out without even talking the wheel off!!! This is a life saver Bc you don’t have to disconnect the ball joint and mess up your front end alignment. Axles are super easy to do on the mk4 platform.
I guess you could, though you wouldn't want to leave the control arm unsupported with a wheel still on once you disconnected the strut. Honestly, from what I read up to when I did the job, it was way easier than I expected!
Idk if you will reply but it’s worth a shot to ask. I stripped the t50 torx bolts that hold in the CV axle to the transmission and I’m stuck on what I should do, any tips?
Were you using a torx or a triple square? The stock bolts are triple squares. In any event, you could try a few things - Hammering the next size up bit into the stripped out hole. I've sometimes had luck with this. You could buy some extractor allen bits, I've got a set I picked up from Home Depot and they've come in handy in a pinch. You could grind flat spots on the head of the bolt to get a wrench or vice grip around it. Your last option is drilling them out. Not fun, but if all else fails that's what you'll have to do. Good luck!
Can you clarify the driveshaft/axle you have used here? The inner CV joint from the axle that was removed is for the 5speed box (02J) but the axle you have installed uses the inner same CV joint for a 6speed which have different gearbox flanges.
I used Raxles. They are different than OEM when comparing them, they even tell you that before you order.
Did you grease the axle on the transmission/flange side? if so what grease did you use?
The inner joint is 'open' in the sense that you pack it with axle grease and bolt it to the flange of the transmission. That flange on the transmission side is what keeps the grease in. Use some high quality CV axle grease and you'll be all set.
How are you torqueing the flange bolts (triple square) while it's in neutral
I tightened them the same way I loosened them. Assemble the axle into the hub/spindle and then wedge a screwdriver into the brake rotor and let it hit the caliper to stop everything from rotating.
What's the best way to remove the passenger side to install a outer CV boot. I don't want to change my axle later down the road... I do have a clunking when it hit bumps but from your other video. I gathered that it is the strut making that noise. Plus the boot ring slipped off on the small end about a week ago and I don't think it's been damaged in that short amount of time. I haven't been driving it much at all.
If it just slipped off, I agree that you're probably ok, just make sure that you put some grease in there if it looks like you lost any. Really you'd have to do the whole thing up to removing the axle from the transmission side. No easy way to slip the boot on there without getting the axle out of the hub.
Hi - I just finished replacing the front driver side knuckle and CV Axle. I'm installing anew ball joint when I get home from work tonight. Then I need to torque down the Axle Flange Bolts to 59 ft lbs. Question - When I try to torque the bolts down, the axle turns. It's a manual, so I put it in gear thinking that would stop the turning, but I was wrong. How can I stop the transmission from turning so I can torque the flange bolts?
@Thomas Klauser I started all the axle flange bolts by hand, tightening them as much as I could without the axle turning. The axle was installed into the spindle at this time, so I used the lug bolts (or studs on non-german vehicles) to brace the whole assembly from turning. I used a pry bar to slip between the studs, and brace against the floor. Let me know if that makes sense or you need any more help!
What website did you get your axles on and are OEM axles better because I got after market axles and now my car vibrates lol
I used Raxles. From what I understand about the mk4's is that the aftermarket raxles aren't any good. You have to go OEM or raxles.
how is that when you take your wheel of your brake caliper is sitting in front then at 2;29 in your vid the caliper is sitting at the back ? did you change the cam
@n3gative Nice catch! I filmed different sides of the car is all. The driver side was giving me a bunch of trouble getting the axle nut off, so I filmed the passenger side instead.
Hey Steve any tips on lining up the splines and checking to see if it’s lined up correctly?
Just started this installation today would appreciate the help!
@J I lined them up as close as I could by eye and went from there. Luckily with the size and length of the splines it would be pretty difficult to mess it up. The metals are also not something soft like aluminum, so if you get them lined up they'll slide in. I do remember having a bit of trouble wiggling them in, but you'll know once they're good. Let me know if you need anything else, and good luck with the job!
Steve's Garage thanks a lot for the reply and the great video!
Hello Sr! Do you know if this way to do it, it's the same on the VW jetta MK4 but thr GLX VR6 engine 5 speed Automatic transmission??
I know between automatic and manual there is a size difference, might also be the same for 1.8t vs VR6, but the procedure should be similar if not exactly the same. I'm not sure about hardware size either, but As far as a general guide this would work. To be absolutely sure, I would make sure you have a manual specifically for the VR6 auto, as sizes or torque specs could be different.
Going to give this a go tomorrow. But have a few questions any help appreciated
Do you get much leakage of transmission fluid? (take it you just top up whatever you loose?)
When you disconnect the wires do you have any trouble with lights on the dash when you reinsert them?
I apologise if these are stupid questions never done one before.
Great Video!
Don't worry about questions! I'm more than happy to help.
You won't lose any transmission fluid. The gear oil is isolated to the inside of the transmission and never touches the CV axles. The axles bolt to flanges that go inside the transmission, and unless you have a problem with those seals, you shouldn't see any trans fluid.
As for the wires to brakes : you may have the ABS light on after reconnecting wires. If you do, you have a few options. Reset it with VAG-COM, disconnect and re-connect the battery, or my personal favorite - take the car out and slam on the brakes to get the ABS to engage, and it will turn off. Essentially since you disconnected it, the car isn't sure the system is working, but once you slam on the brakes and ABS engages, it realizes everything is ok and the light goes off.
Please let me know if you have any other questions, or you need some more help with removal or install. Good luck, I'm glad my video can be of assistance!
that ABS trick is absolutely superb! Thanks man ill keep you updated on how it goes cheers!
Thank you !!! 💪😎
You got it! Glad it helped.
Hello what’s the link to purchase the axle? Also, if I only need to replace the driver side is it best to replace passenger side? TY
The axles are from www.raxles.com/
I prefer to replace both driver and passenger axles at the same time because I'm in there, and to keep the age of the parts the same. Things like boots can fall with age/mileage, so if one boot tore, the other might not be far behind. That being said, you don't have to do both at the same time if you don't want to.
Great video. I just replaced ny front absorbers, bush, lower arm bush, absorbers bearing and stabilizer bushs. When i took it for a ride the front left drive shart wss vibration very bad. So thr next day, i sent it back. I notices the inner section of the left drive shaft is vibrating badly. So guys, what do guys think?
Check for torn boots or any kind of grease loss. Sounds like you did some pretty extensive work on the front end! It could be something unrelated to the bushings, like a wheel bearing, or lose component from when you put it all back together. Make sure everything is buttoned up tight, and then check for excessive play in the axles. If one side is going, the other probably isn't too far behind.
I just put a new passenger side axle in and I have a small shake while I drive, this is the second time I've changed it in a month and I believe I did something wrong, I used oem axles and it seems to be losing a bit of grease is that probably a gasket issue? My bolts are tight but I got grease everywhere in the process, any ideas?
The grease on the ends should be pretty thick and shouldn't really go anywhere during installation. If the grease is coming out of the boots maybe you need to tighten the hose clamps down?
I have 1.8t 5pd manual i see my new axle shaft is thinner than the old one does that matter?
I've done axles on a few cars and the diameter has always been the same. Is it possible that you got axles for a different engine/transmission? I think that some of the different models have different axles. Whats the difference in axle diameter between the two?
Tools that's the part I wanted to hear.👍👍👍👍😅
Glad to help! Keep in mind the sizes are specific to 1.8t 5spd. Other engine/transmission combos are the same style but use different size hardware.
Upon further inspection all 6 axle bolts where removed from the car. Adam Smith conveniently mentioned his dad was a mechanic. Who showed up the day before the noise started. Could it be a setup, possibly. But it still holds true that someone snipped my camera and then proceeded to tamper with a vehicle. What is ultimate clarity is that some just do not understand what we are trying to accomplish here. There is a lack of vision for some.
When you remove the drive shaft from the flange on the engine, does transmission fluid drain out? Do you then need to refill it? Also, the bolts to the flange on the engine, do they need locktite to prevent them vibrating loose? Great video btw
Thank you! Transmission fluid shouldn't come out when you take the axle off the flange. If I remember correctly, I used blue loctite on the inner bolts. In stock configuration those inner bolts are triple squares, so make sure you have a good bit to get in there. I've stripped so many cheap triple squares that I bought a snap-on bit so I knew I wouldn't have any problems with it.
Brilliant!!!! Thank you so much!! ;-)
I don’t know if your still active on this video but could you send the link? For the axles
I'm still very much active! Check out www.raxles.com/ and talk to Marty. He'll get you set up for your exact needs.
Muy buen video me gustó.
+Jose Francisco Esquer Talamante De nada, estoy feliz de ayudar!
Did you have any trouble tourqing the flange bolts to 59 ft pounds? I installed my driver side over the weekend and they seem REALLY tight. Idk if my wrench isnt working properly but I wasnt getting a click on them. But when I tested on my lug bolts it seemed to work fine
My biggest issue was having the clearance to tighten them. As far as getting them tight I don't remember having any issues. The torque spec in the video is for the Raxles. Not sure if you went with OEM, but from what I know the torque spec for OEM bolts is 30 ft/lbs if M8 bolts, and 52 if M10 bolts. Which engine/trans uses which size bolts is beyond me though.
@@StevesGarage I also went with raxles. So it's 59 for me. I'm probably just gonna install the passenger side this upcoming weekend and then I'll take it into my shop to double check the specs
@@aaronparsons8344 You'll be happy with the Raxles, I can tell you that much! Sorry you're having trouble with them.
at 7:11 wouldn't it be easier to insert the axle end through the hub so that it's being held in place as you install the bolts on the flange? Just a thought. Good video!
I don't see why you couldn't do that. Thanks for the comment!
Hey, Quick Question! I’ve got a 00Jetta & just replaced both CV AXELS.
When I looked at em the other day,
I noticed the axel wasn’t flush with the wall. Do you happen to know what went wrong here??? Did I miss a step.
Any feedback is appreciated.
+Cali_livin Guy Do you mean flush with the hub area or the transmission area? If everything is tight there shouldn't be an issue. When I put mine together it seemed like it wasn't into the hub far enough, but everything tightened down and seated correctly. Do you have any weird noises, vibrations, or other issues that make it seem like it may have been installed wrong?
Thanks for taking the time.
Every time I hit a bump, I hear hard metal hitting. Maybe the shocks are bad too ?
+Cali_livin Guy that could also be your strut mount. Its the rubber piece between yhe top of your strut and the strut tower.
I was lucky. I used cheap Australian axels and haven't had any issues.
Nice! It's definitely possible to luck out and get a good set of aftermarket axles.
what kind of price did they hit you with? and how are they holding up after a year of use? and what kind of mileage have you put on them?
They ran me $700. My car is lowered an inch and a half, and a daily driver through snow/rain etc. I've got 8k miles on them, and they've been great. No weird noises, nothing loosening up, I can't as for more. I read stories of people using cheaper axles, and them not being as reliable, which is why I went with these. I don't mind saving money on parts that are easy to replace, but with something like axles, I'd rather be one and done.
Cool video, future though you could just remove the 13mm bolts holding the ball joint in and pull the hub back. Won’t need to do an alignment and it’s much less work. The lower ball joint doesn’t have an adjustment so you’d be fine.
Yea, thats another method. Either one works, I decided to do this because the other videos I saw were ball joint removal.
Steve's Garage it worked! That’s all that really matters, I was a Vw tech for 6.5yeArs and we usually just removed the bolts that attach to the control arm. Almost every Vw is toe and go in the front unless the subframe is removed which = a huge pain in the ass to align after even wit the right tools and an alignment rack unless you nail it in the exact spot it came out of haha.
@@Nate6133 Oh nice! I've heard about the subframe being a death wish like that. Thankfully mine seems to be in good shape even though it's a north east car. Hopefully I never have to touch it!
What if one of the triple square bolts are stripped, what do I do.?????
First yell a lot, and if you cry no one will judge you. In all seriousness, You can try to hammer in the next size up bit. Triple square if you have it, maybe a torx or allen if you don't. You can also try grinding flat spots on the outside so you can get a wrench on there. Another option is extractor bits. I've actually had some decent luck using ones I picked up at a local parts store.
My axle came without the hardware! What size are those bolts that came with yours?
I'm pretty sure they're 10x23mm. Best bet would be to verify the size via the dealer or reputable website though.
@@StevesGarage appreciate it!
Hey where can I get the bolts tht hold the axle mine came off while driving
If you just need the OEM bolts I'd go to a dealership, otherwise you're paying for shipping and waiting on a couple bolts.
Great video. Doing this job soon.
Awesome! Good luck and be sure to comment if you have any questions!
Do we deal with the spare parts as well??
What spare parts?
To remove the axel from the hub disconnect the sway bar link then remove the front bolt from the lower control arm and swing the entire assembly out. No need to remove the ball joint or the strut. And no realignment needed.
That would work too!
After replacing passenger CV with OEM replacement, getting a grinding/scraping sound while driving. Double checked the dust cover, and make sure nothing else was touching metal. Still have the sound, any tips on where i should check first? Im taking the cv back out and packing more grease in this weekend.
Good first step of checking to see if there are any problems with the axle itself. Are you sure it's coming from the axle and not something else? If it is coming from the axle is there a lot of play or any other sign pointing towards it being a defective unit despite being OEM?
@@StevesGarage 95% sure. Checked tie rods, checked wheel bearings, checked sway bar links. Nothing seems jimmied out of place or loose. I have a sneaking suspicion that I didn't pack the axle full enough with grease. I only used about a 1/4 of the bag that came with the axle thinking the residual grease in the trans would be enough. Sorry for the late reply, I was on vacation.
@@StevesGarage Also, the noise is coming specifically from the side I changed the axle on. Rolled down individual windows while driving to pinpoint just where it was coming from.
@@noticeablystrange3021 No worries about the late reply, we all have a life! If you only used 1/4 of the bag that's your issue. When I rebuilt the axles on my Volvo it came with a bag of grease for each joint. You should use the whole thing.
How did you fix the abs and pad wear sensors?
I spliced new plugs on the end. The ABS sensor works again, but the pad wear sensor didn't for some reason. I just used VAGCOM to turn the light off since I'm not worried about that light functioning correctly.
My mk4 driverside axel is frozen won't turn at all the passenger side does the motor mount broke on driverside side I fixed it now the axel wont move at all in gear or neutral
Sounds to me like you may have damaged the driverside axle. I can't see the motor mount breaking causing any internal damage to the trans, so I'd start there. I'd remove the axle and inspect it to see if its ok. If it is, then check out the trans/dif.
Nice approach Steve. Question for you. Im in the process of replacing my steering rack (2000 beetle). Subframe is dropped, etc etc. Noticed drivers side axle has no rotational play, and if I gently pull on it, it moves in and out only a few mms. The passangers side has no rotational play, but if I give it even a slight pull, it moves a good inch or two in an out. Its automatically pulled back in by the inner boots accordian. I dont detect any other issues , but do you think this needs to be replaced? Easier to do it now while everything it out. Cheers.
+Rob Kesik I replied on the other comment too, but I thought I might add something here. How many miles are on the Beetle? Is it lowered, or putting ouy more power? Just trying to get any details that mgiht point to it being time for an axle replacement. I definitely understand doing something else while you're in there. I feel like people who work like that are rare!
@@StevesGarage 330000kms. Not lowered, TDI, nothing else really to note. I be actually got a video I'll be posting in a few mins. I'll link to it.
+Rob Kesik If the axles are original they're probably ready for replacement. Mine lasted about 180,000mi with a stage one tune and lowered an inch. It wasn't lowered or tuned the whole time, I've only owned it since 130k, but that gives you an idea. I know that mk4 axles are a bit notorious for being awful, but I seemed to have good luck with mine, and it seems like you've had the same.
Is it different for 02m 6speed?
The sizes of hardware may be different, but the procedure is the same. If the sizes are different, look into the torque specs as well.
Be careful with the brake hose, it gets pretty tight when the spindle is all the way down and mine started to leak because I wasn’t paying attention to it
Definitely!
The tools you used for this video would it be the same tools you would use to remove the driver side axle on a 2012 volkswagen passat ? Or would they be different ? Finding a drivers side automatic axle is even hard to find. Lol
I don't know enough about the newer Passat to tell definitely one way or the other. What I do know, is that VWs tend to make small changes over the years, so it wouldn't surprise me if they were the same. Can you buy a repair manual? That would definitely help, especially if there are photos to go along with it.
put a box end wrench between the rotor and lug bolt, that will make up the slack and have the lugs tight so maybe you wont bend a bolt next time
Great tip, thanks!
Is the sub frame a good place to jack up the car ? I always use the reinforced metal on the sides next to the tire then idk where to put the jack stands, havent been able to get anyone to answer me on this and get super sketched everything I have to get under my car, everyone acts like we should know what the different parts are which when doing stuff like this yes but we r watching the vid that shows how to do it, never shows how to and where exactly to put the jack and jack stands, plus different cars look..... different lol
I typically put the jack stands on the sub frame mounts, or where the control arm bolts to the sub frame. I put the stands on the sub frame, never a moving part (suspension or otherwise). You can jack the car up from either of those points, or where the dog bone mounts to the frame. You can absolutely jack the car up from the pinch weld, it's just not something I like to do. I've managed to get the jack and stands in place all on the sub frame.
Someone that actually replies! I love it! But y not use the pinch points? I thought it was reinforced just for that purpose, or is it meant for the jack stands?
@@ianmoberg374 I do my best to reply to everyone! You can use the pinch welds, I just don't like to. It feels more sturdy to me to place the jack and stands on a frame area if I can. I have used the pinch weld when using the spare tire jack and it was fine.
It also might be a subconscious thing of growing up in a snow state where rockers can be rusted out, and jacking up a car from them would be a terrible idea.
Ok I gotcha that makes perfect sense thank you for the info its much appreciated buddy!
@@ianmoberg374 Happy to help!
Great video. I ordered a Raxels on your recommendation and what i got was black not red and it had no supporting hardware like bolts. If there's two levels of part that could be mentioned.
I wasn't aware of two different levels of parts when it came to Raxles. Did you order it direct from Raxles/Marty?
@@StevesGarage yes. They must have a race version and a normal version?
@@EricThompsonClimber I guess so. I never specified either, but I may have the red ones because I am lowered? Are you stock suspension wise?
@@StevesGarage Yes stock suspension.
I do have the bolts, they're 8 mil triple square. But no paper gasket.
How did u set up the strut spreader at the back of the spindle?
+Sdddude123 the strut spreader slides between the knotch in the spindle, then you rotate it to open up the spindle and slide it off the strut. Let me know if that doesn't make sense or you need more clarification!
@@StevesGarage thanks! I had to rewatch a couple times but it makes sense now.
+Sdddude123 Cool cool, glad I was able to help!
What is an indication that the cv joints need to be replaced? I have 03 jetta with 110,818 miles and I noticed a vibration when accelerating. Specially at higher speeds.
I never noticed any vibration with mine, but it is possible. You could just need an alignment or tires with a vibration. My OEM axles lasted until ~180k. Do you drive your car particularly hard or have any aftermarket modifications?
Steve's Garage i am not sure I just bought it to commute
@@tenochtitlan51582 Replace them asap! I had an awful wobble that I ignored which led to the axle getting completely shredded where it connects to the trans.
I'd start from the outside and work in. Make sure tires are good, alignment is done, wheels are torqued properly. Then go in and check brakes, axles, suspension components if your problem persists.
What happens if you damage the hub when hammering?
If it were me, I'd replace it. The last thing I'd want to do is put it all back together and have an issue that requires me to take it all back apart. That being said, if the hub seems ok, you could put it pack together and it might be fine. It's hard to make a call not being able to see it in person.
Hey bud please help me out, I was driveing a few days ago and my CV axel just fell off, the tranny wasn't leaking or anything actually, so assumed I could just replace it and be fine. Well I replaced it today step by step with the video and now it's leaking hella fluid ??!! Any ideas on what it could be ??? It's my first car and I love it I'm just so sad that this is happening and really need help 😓
+Christtheep gameing I'm honestly not sure what your problem might be. You may have installed in incorrectly. On my car, the CV Axle isn't exposed to the transmission fluid, it attaches to a flange that's connected to the transmission. Is it leaking trans fluid, or something else?
@@StevesGarage hey bud no problem !! It turns out when my previous CV broke it hit the turbo oil return hoes, so I went to pull a part yesterday and got a replacement and she's running like a champ now (:
Oh nice! Easy peasy. Good to know you're up and running!
my problem is that the axle body around the bolts is right against them unlike in yours where you have plenty of room. I can't place the bits inside the bolts without angling them and stripping them because the socket that holds them is too wide and touches the axle. I have 1.9L VW beetlle TDI
My bolts had very little clearance as well. It's tough to see in the video, but it wasn't the easiest for me get them out with the socket I had since the body of it was so large. I have a set of Lisle triple square bits that you have to put a wrench or socket on the end to use it. They look like this - shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-triple-square-wrench-set-60750/4557161-P?searchTerm=lisle+triple+square
Maybe you can pick up that set and use that? That should give you more clearance around the axle. I'm honestly curious how these were installed if you can't fit a standard bit driver between the bolt and the axle!
Steve's Garage I had a bit set like that but it wouldn’t fit lengthwise. I ordered this:
www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tool-82060-2-Inch/dp/B000X1NCQK/ref=mp_s_a_1_42?keywords=10mm+triple+square+bit&qid=1580091167&sr=8-42
It will work I think because it’s 1 inch long, and has the hole so I think I’ll be able to stick a pin in it and torque it or otherwise a wrench.
My axle as it is has a crevice for every other bolt that allowed me to take out those ones. But it left three that I couldn’t and I ordered that bit for them.
@@StevesGarage as you can see in mine: imgur.com/a/b36wylI
every other bolt isn't given enough clearance for me to get it out. im stripping it. the part i said i ordered didnt come as advertised and didn't fit. so I ordered this now to get those ones out:
www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-12733-Extra-Long-Triple/dp/B00BY9RXY2
how many CM for right shaft golf4???
Not sure I know what you mean... Like how long is the shaft? I'm not sure how long it is, I just ordered the shafts and they sent them.
What size are the axle bolts?
I'm not sure what the exact bolt size is, they came with the axles. As for the head size, the stock VW bolts are a 10mm Triple Square bit. The replacement Raxle bolts are 8mm Allen.
where did you purchase your new cv axle in red?
+Hippie Chick The axles are from a company called Raxles. They're expensive, but they're better quality than OEM. I'm lowered and have a tune that's giving me more power, so I wanted something beefy.
@@StevesGarage that's what I've been looking for buy people kept telling me. I couldn't do anything with a vw... very discouraging. I'm just starting out learning and studying. I want the best for my car. thanks for the info
+Hippie Chick Don't be discouraged about what people say about VWs. They're different, might require some special tools, but at the end of the day it's all nuts and bolts that come off, and go back on. If you take your time, follow instructions, you can do it! The Raxles are definitely the best axles out there if you plan to keep your car for a while, or do any future modifications like lowering or increased power. Let me know if you need anything else, I'm happy to help!
Totally convinced me to check out Raxels for a replacement, but holy shit those are expensive. A set of those plus shipping is damn near worth more than the freaking car. I'm not saying it's a bad buy, just pricey.
They are expensive. But I think they're worth if if you have modified suspension or plan on keeping the car. I just did the run around with aftermarket axles on my Volvo and they all gave me a vibration. Luckily I caught the OEM axles early and could rebuild them, but I tried two different brands of aftermarket axle and they gave me low and high speed vibrations. Once I put the OEMs back in, it was fine again. The extra cost is worth it to me if I never have to touch them again.
How did you diagnose that it was a bad axle? My 12V VR is making an occasional rattling noise from the front left side and I can easily move the stock axle by hand. It rattles over bumps, over bigger inclined driveways and if I brake hard I hear it move as well. Is there something perhaps loose with one of the axle nuts and is it still semi safe to drive if need be? Obviously replacement is ideal ASAP.
I would lean towards a suspension issue with what you're describing. I have an axle diagnoses video where I show the symptoms of a bad axle. Typically axles make a rotational grinding or popping while simply rolling. Have you checked your ball joints, tie rods, and end links? What you're describing sounds more like that than axles.
@@StevesGarage I did do coilovers on the car earlier on in the year and the sound began to become apparent a little time after that. The car is not low to the point where it’s stressing the CV joints. I will go through and have a look at all the bolts on the drivers side that pertain to the suspension components. My only pointer to an axle is the fact that it can be easily moved in and out of the transmission by 2-3mm
@@gavanphotography7814 The inner joint will move like that. The inner has a tripod or spider, that not only rotates, but slides in and out of the housing. The outer joint will only rotate. I'd take a look at your suspension components, and even check if the struts are tight enough. I wouldn't rule our CVs, but I wouldn't go there first.
@@StevesGarage I’m going to check the sway bar as #1 because that’s one thing that I think could easily be the issue. When I leave the car in first gear and let it roll, tap the gas and let off you hear whatever it is rattling up front left too. The car made the same sound before and I changed my lower control arms and it went away so maybe the new bushings are shot again? I’ll check the suspension components and report back
The end links can be a pain to diagnose because it's hard to repeat with the car in the air, but that sounds like it could be end links if they're old. Outer tie rods can also have a similar issue where they make noise driving, but those you can check for play. Let me know what you come up with, lets figure it out!
Wait a minute I seen this car at the junkyard the other day, it had the same coil overs and it was also green. I didn't check the red axles and the tires were still on so I could see the performance disks. It was in grand strand lol, ehats good to pull off this thing 😂😂
Funny that you saw that, it wasn't mine! Mine's still running strong, sitting in my driveway.
Is it possible for the threads on the transfer case where the axle bolts in to be stripped? Is there a way to fix this issue?
I suppose that's absolutely possible, though I have no idea how to fix that. What makes you think the threads are stripped? Is it not tightening properly, or not coming out?
My axle actually disconnected on the highway One day and all the bolts came out I went to replace it and ordered oem bolts and an axle but the bolts only thread into the axle and not the case
@@dkackddog25 Oh wow... There's definitely an issue then. Did the bolts break off and now they're still stuck in the hole, or did they fall out and the hole is clear? Either way, you've got a problem. I've replaced a full transmission on a mk4 before, but I don't know if you can replace just the flange that comes out of the trans where the axle bolts up to.
Steve's Garage I’ll have to dig through vw vortex more but the bolts just felt out without shearing, I’ve never seen that happen before. The guy I bought my car from replaced the engine so I’m assuming he over torqued the bolts and stripped the threads. Thanks for the help
Wow, sorry to hear your trouble man! I'll say that mine haven't had any issue when done correctly, so when it's buttoned up correctly you shouldn't have any issues!
Where do i get axels like those
raxles.com
Decent guide but you dont need to undo the drop link or the suspension, just either pop the lower ball joint or if thats not working out just undo the 3 bolts holing the ball joint to the arm. That will be enough to get the shaft out
The reason I didn't want to touch the ball joints is I didn't want to have to get an alignment. Typically if you mess with the ball joints, you're going to need an alignment. Either way works though.
@@StevesGarage yeah good point
Why why why would you go with a non- OEM part? Why open Pandora's box of possible problems when the OEM one is tried and tested and reliable?
I will agree with you in most instances, especially with CV axles. That being said, Raxles are a tried and true high quality aftermarket option. They're extremely reliable, and Marty offers great customer service with a lifetime warranty if anything happens to them. They're also made for your setup. In the instance of my car, the axles are slightly shorter than OEM because the car is lowered. Being slightly shorter reduces the tendency for the axle to bind.
what size triple square is that
The 1.8t was a 10mm. I believe the vr6 uses the same size, though the tdi may be smaller.
You didn't say what size allen you need or what tools are needed
At the beginning of the video I outline all the tools at the beginning of the video. It's an 8mm allen.
Is thats a auto or manual trans?
This is on a manual. I've never worked on an auto VW to know if it's the same, but I imagine it can't be too different.
HEY GUY -- PUT ON A NEW CV AXLE ON PASSENGER SIDE. 2002 GLX PASSAT 4 MOTION AUTOMATIC TRANS / FELT PRETTY GOOD ABOUT IT. // HOW EVER WHEN i WENT TO THROW AWAY THE BOX THERE IN THE BOTTOM SOUNDERED BY PLASTIC SHIPPING MATERIAL ALL AROUND IT WAS A SMALL PAMPHLET . EXPLAINING THAT A DUST SEAL IS REQUIRED FOR SOME 2004 APPLICATIONS // THEN IT READS --- REMOVE IF ORIGINAL AXLE DID NOT HAVE THIS. --- CHRIST IT DIDN'T HAVE ONE ON IT OR IT WAS SO WORN OUT IT ROTTED AWAY ... NOW IT'S INSTALLED AND i DIDN'T NOTICE IF THE NEW ONE HAD ONE ON IT. WILL THIS DUST SHIELD ON THE NEW ONE -- WILL IT NEED TO BE PULLED AGAIN AND REMOVE IT OR WILL IT BE OK TO RUN.IT LIKE IT IS. THE RIGHT ANSWER WOULD BE APPRECIATED -- BUT IF YOU DON'T KNOW FOR SURE -- THEN SAY PULL IT
I hate when that happens! I'm not sure about the Passat, but there weren't any extra parts with mine. Odd that it doesn't specify if your car absolutely needs it or not. Are you axles maybe used on other applications that need the seal, where maybe yours doesn't? I would try and find that out before pulling it again. Someone has to know what cars get the seal vs what cars don't.
Anyone knows size of GTI, 36/30 or 36/27
Are you wondering the size of the axle itself? I'm not sure what the numbers you're referring to mean. If you type in your year and drivetrain details it should just come up with compatible axles.
this is so much fucking easier than how I've always done mine 😭
What's the difference? I know I disconnected the strut rather than the ball joint, but how do you usually do it?
I prefer skipping removing tie rods or even the knuckle. Just loosen the 3 bolts on bottom to control arm I see no point in spreading the strut at all. Done this twice with no issues. Tire swings clear out of way.
Either way works. I did it this way since I didn't see any videos explain this method.
having a problem where the passenger side axle keeps spinning when trying to remove bolt
Is it the large single axle bolt? I would loosen that one up with the car on the ground, or use a screwdriver/pry bar against the ground to stop it from rotating.
@@StevesGarage I’ll try that the rotor spins with axle trying to undo it I’ll try the screw driver method thx
@@StevesGarage hit it with impact and it came right out but thank you
@@jakes5506 You can stick a screwdriver in the vanes of the rotor, or thread in two lug bolts and use those with a try bar to stop it from rotating. Let me know how you make out!
@@jakes5506 Good stuff!
Do you recommend replacing the triple square bolts?
From what I can remember, the axle bolts don't need to be replaced. However my raxles came with replacement bolts, so I used them. No need to replace them if they aren't damaged though!
@@StevesGarage Thanks!
I'm doing one I have a question
Cool, whats the question?
Torque specs for axle nut?
Bently manual says to torque to 148ft/bs, loosen half a turn, and then torque to 37 ft/lbs. Raxle says to tighten to expose 3 or 4 threads. I've done both and haven't had an issue either way.
@@StevesGarage Im gonna use the Raxle method, thank you so much!
Unbolting the strut is unnecessary. If you unbolt the sway bar end links on both sides, you can swing the sway bar up. Then unbolt the inner CV and the big nut. Then swing the inner CV up, pull the axle out of the hub, and maneuver it out through the gap where the sway bar used to be. I just did it today - did not have to undo any suspension at all (besides the sway bar).
On the passenger side, I unbolted the control arm from the subframe. Seemed a lot easier than undoing the strut. Had both sides done in under 2 hours.
Lots of different ways to do it, my video is just one. Thanks for the alternate way! My struts had been installed after my control arms, so I knew they'd be easier to crack seeing as I live in a snow state.
My 2003 mk4 tdi does not have 10mm triple square bolts . They are more like 8MM . Had to leve the car up on stands last night because I bought a 10mm as per this video and it most definatly does not fit .
Sorry that happened, I guess the tdi hardware size is different than the 1.8t.
@@StevesGarage knew I should have just bought the whole set . Going to pick them up this afternoon and finish the job tonight. Thanks for the video anyway was informative.
On the Escape I own the caliper pin size differs between some years and no one can figure it out. Some are 7mm, some are 9mm. Sorry the video stated the wrong size. I know VW has some differences between the different engine/transmissions, never thought the bolt size would be one of them. Glad you found the rest of the video helpful though.
@@StevesGarage I know what your saying I hate when they don't keep it consistent on same model car year to year . I blame the engineers . Turns out my cv is probably ok overall it was a bad hub so there was play in the wheel bearing . I'm still going to replace the cv anyway shes original to the car 450 thousand kilometers on the old girl . She can just have the new part . Doing struts and new lower ball joints as well . I'm in deep now .just pressed the bearing out to find the hub problem so of course I've got to order one . Another day I'll have to wait to get it all back together . Thanks again
@@dillpickle4239 Glad it helped! I tend to go all out like that too. If you're in there and the part is old, might as well replace it. Otherwise you can be back in there in a couple months doing it all over again.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
what brand are those axles
They are Raxle brand. They're pricey, but garunteed for life and extremely high quality. The owner is great and was very helpful when I had some questions before I ordered them. Let me know if you need anything else!
Steve's Garage hi there me again... so how do I order them because i sent an email to the sales email on the website but still no answer how did you order them is it better to call ? Pls let me know i really want them thnks again
+Antonio Rico I called them directly and placed the order. I could find him credit card info over the phone and it worked out great.
If youre looking for an accurate video, look no further.
Just did the job, wasnt rax I installed but was the same process. I personally didnt have a strut spreader, but a nice sized flat head screwdriver will work just fine. I marked the strut with horizontal and vertical markings to line back up to. Slid out easy peasy, went back in easy peasy. A second set of hands is a game changer so grab your 13 yr old and wrench on!
Thank you for the reply! I'm glad it worked well for you and you got your car repaired. It's not too bad a job if you have the proper tools for it, and an extra hand is always a huge help!
Not every jetta has a 10mm triple square driver bolt, should have been specific with the size range on all jettas.
I've pinned a comment stating that. This video is done on a 1.8t so it should be correct for that.
Wish you where here to help me lol💯🤘
Hopefully the video gives you everything you need but the extra set of hands!
How much are raxles?
They were about $750 shipped for both sides. You can definitely save money with cheaper axles, but I didn't want to do this job more than once, and I am lowered about 1.5in.
@@StevesGarage hey, I have h&r lowering springs. 1.5". How long do you think my after market CV axles will last? Mk4 GTI, stock. Axles are FEQ, got them from urotuning
@@eduardogarcia1512 I'm honestly not sure, I don't have any experience with those brand axles. I will say that if you're lowered, they might not last as long as if you weren't lowered. My Raxles are actually a different size than the OEM axles, because they took into account my lowering springs.
My after markets are fine
How long have they been on the car? It's pretty widely known that the aftermarket axles for these cars don't last as long as OEMs. Which is fine, it's all up to the owner for what they want to buy.
How the hell does yours have a hex nut? Everywhere I've seen it's a 12 point
The axle nut? It's a 12 point in both the one I take off and the one I install.
@@StevesGarage no the cv nut that's hold it to the transmission. I noticed you were using a hex bit
@@ischwhit6747 The OEM ones are triple squares, the replacements are hex. That's what the Raxles are delivered with.
@@StevesGarage yeah, ik the OEM ones are triple square. What I saw was you using a hex on the triple square bolts. I could have been blind or maybe the lighting wasnt too good on em
@@ischwhit6747 Definitely wasn't a hex taking the off, just a triple square driver. Probably the bad lighting in here, it's tough to get light that far in with the car so low to the ground.