The top and bottom rods have another adjustment that may require rod removal, and door removal to set. The long rod, or cable on some is attached to the curved piece that comes through the door where the shown adjustments are made. If a previous installer didn't lock down those with the supplied security nut, then they can back off with repeated use. It took me a while to figure this out, but both rods had to be set properly before the fine adjustment is made as shown in the video. If you can't set the latch adjustments with the fine tuning shown, then this scenario is your problem.
You guys sorted me on so many screws, I had to rob b the old hardware fur all the latch trim screws and the #10's you sent to secure the foot and head latches I had to go to the store the next day for #14's. Missing or wrong size 20 screws altogether. I needed 8 screws for the rid guides you sent 4. I got weatherstrips for the verticals that don't go to 8' so I have to slide them, got nothing for the bottoms of the doors. If this is how your company comes a little cheaper or something I don't want to waste my time which is also money. A little quality control to make sure you're sending guys with enough rope to hang themselves or get the job done is appreciated, nothing worse than than having the guy in the field. Also top frame latch rollwr bracket template screw locations had to be re drilled 1/4" more back from the doors where the template had them. Heads up if you're going to do one of these: buy #10, 12, 14 countersunk machine w/drill and tap or #14 countersunk head self tapping screws, also need tension spring tool for spring clip in locks if you have to change the handing
If you think that concealed vertical rods are frustrating to fuss with, you ought to fight with the cross bar style concealed vertical rod exit devices. A great way to test your vocabulary.
I'm having problems keeping the latches retracted after opening the door. This is causing the door to not close properly. Sometimes I can't open the door because the panic bar does not retract the latches. Is this still an adjustment issue of the rods for both problems?
Thank you for your comment! The issue you describe could have a few different solutions. Our support team can help you determine if it is an adjustment issue, or possibly related to the door, the frame, or other factors. Please contact our support team at 877-671-7011 (option 2, then option 3), and we will be happy to help. Our support hours are 8am-7pm EST, Monday-Friday.
Concealed vertical rods. Gotta love em
The top and bottom rods have another adjustment that may require rod removal, and door removal to set. The long rod, or cable on some is attached to the curved piece that comes through the door where the shown adjustments are made. If a previous installer didn't lock down those with the supplied security nut, then they can back off with repeated use. It took me a while to figure this out, but both rods had to be set properly before the fine adjustment is made as shown in the video. If you can't set the latch adjustments with the fine tuning shown, then this scenario is your problem.
You guys sorted me on so many screws, I had to rob b the old hardware fur all the latch trim screws and the #10's you sent to secure the foot and head latches I had to go to the store the next day for #14's. Missing or wrong size 20 screws altogether. I needed 8 screws for the rid guides you sent 4. I got weatherstrips for the verticals that don't go to 8' so I have to slide them, got nothing for the bottoms of the doors. If this is how your company comes a little cheaper or something I don't want to waste my time which is also money. A little quality control to make sure you're sending guys with enough rope to hang themselves or get the job done is appreciated, nothing worse than than having the guy in the field.
Also top frame latch rollwr bracket template screw locations had to be re drilled 1/4" more back from the doors where the template had them.
Heads up if you're going to do one of these: buy #10, 12, 14 countersunk machine w/drill and tap or #14 countersunk head self tapping screws, also need tension spring tool for spring clip in locks if you have to change the handing
good video.resourceful, keep sharing more video tutorials.
How do you put the rod inside the door
It's just that simple. Hahaha RIIIIGHT
It's call HARDware not SIMPLEware.
I'm about 90% sure this narrator also does Ford training videos.
The 33 Series is much more difficult. Wish there were a video on it too.
Thank you for your feedback!
If you think that concealed vertical rods are frustrating to fuss with, you ought to fight with the cross bar style concealed vertical rod exit devices. A great way to test your vocabulary.
Thank you for the video. Very useful.
Very nice
Hello, What if the top and bottom bolts don't remain retracted once you release the push bar? Is this an issue at top of the door?
Any idea how to get the adjustment screw out that has been stripped?..it won't budge
I have spent over 4 hours trying to figure out how to put the rod inside the door , it would not fit
I've never had an installation with interior rods, only exterior. These doors are manufactured with the internal rods.
How do I open? a horizontal rod exit door that is stuck closed
I am in this same boat right now.
I'm having problems keeping the latches retracted after opening the door. This is causing the door to not close properly. Sometimes I can't open the door because the panic bar does not retract the latches. Is this still an adjustment issue of the rods for both problems?
Thank you for your comment! The issue you describe could have a few different solutions. Our support team can help you determine if it is an adjustment issue, or possibly related to the door, the frame, or other factors. Please contact our support team at 877-671-7011 (option 2, then option 3), and we will be happy to help. Our support hours are 8am-7pm EST, Monday-Friday.
They don't call it HARDware because it easy.
Hi sir u have mor vdos please sand me please ok ok and thanks for your vods