Tips for bleeding the rear brake on a GL1500
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- čas přidán 23. 01. 2018
- Today I'm going to give you some tips on bleeding the rear brake on a GL1500. Dont' forget that your rear and front left brake are tie into the rear master cylinder.
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#Goldwing
#GL1500
#Honda
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Saddle Bag Removal video:
• How to remove a saddle... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
There's a rubber circle stuck with adhesive inside the Left saddle bag. It gives you direct access to the bleeder screw.
Good video, but I just wanted to point out that the brakes on the Gold Wing are a split system. That means there is a split line from the rear master cylinder that also goes to the left front brake caliper. When bleeding the rear brakes you should always bleed the front caliper first, then the rear.👍
Correction I got it backwards, bleed the rear and then the front. Sorry about that.
Thanks Clifford! Without you my gl1500 would still be collecting dust! Being 20 years old and a motorhead I thought I bit off more than I could chew lol. But your carb tear down and replacement videos and this one helped me get mine back in order so thanks so much dude 🤘
Your tip on adding the weight over time to the brake pedal worked great for me. Took 2 days but I now have brakes. Thank you for your videos, I’ve watched them all.
Thanks Clifford Rice! I watched your videos on bleeding the brakes on my ‘95 GL1500, I was able to save the mechanic fees on getting them from no braking to solid response in under a hour. I removed the left bag, and the ring of fire on the left front... then with a trick my father taught me, I used a hose fitted to the bleeder nipple and prevented a mess.. I also had a large syringe to suck brake fluid through the lines to speed up the process. I was alone so used a weight to hold the brake pedal down as I opened the bleeders. The entire project took 2 hours.
Just got a 1988 goldwing that was in storage for 3 years- no back breaks... your step by step video allowed me to fix the problem.... although the front left brakes work off of the foot pedal also so after I bled them = perfection! Thank you!!!
I recently purchased a '98 Honda Goldwing. I used your video to show me how to take the fairing off to bleed the brakes. It sounded like it was difficult to get the air out of the brake system. Therefore, I used my solvent gun (sprayer) to suck the air bubbles out. It worked great! Just thought I would pass this on. Thanks for all the videos you have posted, they've been a great help!
Hi, I was bleeding my brakes and went through about a pint of fluid and still had a soft pedal. I also used a vacuum pump to bleed the system and still no luck. So I tried your tip to hold the pedal down for a while. After about 3hours I checked the brake pedal and it was hard as a rock. Thanks for the tip.
Trying that right now
You dont need to remove left saddle bag. There's a rubber circle stuck with adhesive inside the saddle bag. It gives you direct access to the bleeder screw.
That is why you never trust people doing repairs on CZcams! I just got my bike and noticed that right away. Thanks for sharing with others cause I was just getting ready to share.
that's why it pays to read the comments, thank you
I saw that hole after i took the bag off
Yes there is on my 1996 Goldwing I
Not on all. My 88 doesn’t.
Sincerely,your doing the work of the gl Gods!! Thanks
I hope you are still on here Cliff. I love to watch your videos, they're always full of info and helpful tips. I am about to try this tip to bleed the rear brakes on my '90 gl 1500. I have just rebuilt the rear end and am putting new brakes on her. Through your videos and a couple others I have found a great way to work on the Goldwing. If you are still on here, I look forward to seeing more videos. Thanks Phill.
Hello I just picked up a 1991 goldwing gl 1500 with 63000 kms
I love your video’s they have helped me tremendously
Keep the videos coming
Frank Newfoundland Canada
well, it's 2021 and i ratchet strapped the brake pedel today, i'll check it tomorrow. Thanks Cliff for learning the hard way first for all of us..
Thank you, I had the brake pedal down over night ,worked like a charm, thanks again
Clifford is the man. I was dreading replacing the mc. I hung a cinder block off the brake after multiple attempts to bleed the brakes hard. 36 hrs later, hard brakes. God bless Al Gore for inventing the internet, and Clifford for using it!!!
I have to say thanks for the brake tip. I've built a gazillion brakes in my life. I thought U might have a screw loose with the weight tip. But I added a 14 lb battery to the pedal overnight... Checked out in the morning 🙂,,, good pedal. Weeks later now ☺️,,, good back brakes... Still scratchin my head on how loadin the piston actually worked. Tips R great 👍 so thanks, Dave.
Subscribed brotha! KEEP up the good work..very helpful gl 1500
Great tips. Bleed the left front and the back brake is great. Thanks
How to bleed the rear brakes
Thank you for your help regarding the tips and Goldwing videos I have a gl1500 1990 much appreciated Paul Abbeywood South East London
Good morning I live in Swansea England. I’ve been trying to bleed my back brakes on my going out for two weeks. Finally after two weeks of training that sounds amazing but it’s true as I stripped and rebuilt you wanna calipers as well. I finally got some pressure on the rear brake. As soon as I left it off, it would go back to the same again and have to pump it up and leave the pressure so I watched a video and did what you said. I got a pressure on the pedal and left it held down for three days to my surprise when I released the pedal there was a solid brake pedal there. Thank you very much for this video. It has helped me out a lot, and yes, I agree with you the brakes on these 1500 going on a nightmare but now I know what to do for future reference it does work Sophie
@clifford rice -Thank you so much for sharing your tip! After bleeding the front then rear, I still didn't have a solid brake so I pressed the pedal down and wedged a shallow socket between the pedal and foot peg to hold it down overnight. Next morning I was golden! I bled the rear a little more (not sure if it was necessary). A week laker it still is working fine. You are the only person who gave me a suggestion that worked!
BTW I watched your other video to remove the saddlebag. I found out about the access hole later, but in my case it didn't matter--I wanted to install speed bleeders to make this an easy one-person job. Goldwings are new to me, so this was a great learning experience with the best possible outcome.
I have a 91 that's triked with a mustang 2 rear axle, shortened of course and mustang 2 drum brakes. It sat out in a shed all winter and we hit -11F in Feb.
Anyway, I dug it out and my rear brakes were totally gone- pedal to the floor. I looked for leaks, then after finding none, I started taking things off the bike to see just how hard it would be to remove the rear master cylinder. After half an hour I decided to put it all back on and go to youtube.
I saw a couple videos showing what a clusterf*ck Honda created then I saw this one with your little mechanic's trick.
I had zero hope it would work, but I put a big splitting maul on the pedal and hooked it under the cylinder head for 3 days with the pedal completely depressed. I'm just doing a happy dance right now because it worked! Thank you!
That does work. But... I am having problems with the clutch as well. I have a 1996 Goldwing GL1500I A. 45000 miles. While temporary fixes gets you going for a day or two. I have just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. The slave cylinder was gunked up. and clutch resevoir was nasty too. I rebuilt the two front and rear brake calipers added fresh brake pads, checked the tolerance on rotors , rebuilt the front and rear master cylinders. I rebuitlt the rear brake master cylinder in place. Two tools are needed for that. Having new seals ,pistons, pads, is the way to go. Doing it myself , at my own pace, using the Honda 1996 Goldwing service manual, saved me so much money. I can buy whatever tools are needed and still be way in the black. The rear is not for the average shadetree mechanic. It will test your skills. Thanks for the videos
Thanks for the Tip. I have Bled my rear Brake several times. Only for it to go... soft, no more a Dead Feel? The hanging a weight Yep it really does do the trick. Mine was over night yes the air is Hard to remove. Also I replaced with Dot4. I deliberately replace with a different colour. ( mucky brown to Blue) so you can see the new fluid change colour coming out into the waste bottle through the clear hose. Thanks mate. Jim Evans Outback Australia.
This method worked for me. It took 3 days and I started from the left front brake to the rear brake and now it is brand new. BTW, use a large flathead screwdriver to hold the rear brake pedal down wedged between the foot peg and brake lever.
Thanks bud. That's the next and hopefully the last thing to do. Oh by the way i was the one to say something about not having air pump cb or radio. Yes it was fuse. Thanks you are believe ot or not very helpful to us. God bless
There is two lines coming off of rear brake master cylinder. One goes to rear caliper, does the other go to the front and if so does it need to be bled also?
Blacklist guy??
I've got an old 85 Magna 1100 and ran into a problem with the rear brake. I set the weight on it and waited a day. it was still soft. I read somewhere that you can loosen and tighten the bolts that hold the master. I put the weight on and loosened the bolts. when I tightened them back up a few big bubbles came up in the reservoir. Solid brakes after that.
thanks for the info, blocked the pedal down overnight, full firm pedal next day!
Thank you for your videos, just whished I would have took pictures of the exhaust shield that I removed on the right side. Have no clue where it goes.
Hi. GREAT video. Thanks! non-related... would you mind telling me who makes your highway floorboards? I just got a 1989 GL1500 in great shape and I'm going to do all this maintenance. Came without the highway floorboards... and I'm looking for ones that will not interfere with the oem engine guard that sticks out and makes reaching for the "highway pegs" very awkward. Are they confy? do your lower calf touches the engine guard? THANK YOU again
My understanding is that the GL 1500 has a split system like a car. The pedal controls the back brake and the left front caliper, so you need to bleed that front brake first, and then bleed the back brake. Not bleeding the front brake is probably the reason that you still have a spongy pedal. Any time that you bleed brakes on anything you start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, and work back to the closest - in this case that is the front brake, and then the back brake.
Personally, I think that a split system is a stupid design for a motorcycle. I want full control of when my front brake gets applied when I am in loose gravel, but that is not the way that Honda designed it.
holy hell thank you, I was about to reverse flush the rear line, had no idea it's split.
I have seen this video once before, and i also found that when
bleeding the rear brake you must bleed the front left side as
well. If you don't, you will be wasting your time.
Opposite if bleeding a car in theory. Usually in a car you start with the furthest caliper then work forwards. Supposedly you use the foot brake for tight turning on the Goldwings so probably why Honda did the split braking as far as I've heard.
@@tnasburypl It may be for a completely unrelated problem such as reducing rear tire skidding... The Goldwing is pretty heavy, so applying the rear brake alone may skid too easily.
@@barking.dog.productions1777 They say you step on the rear brake when you rodeo the thing. Slow and tight. The videos are super cool.
Also the gl1500 is a intergraded system when you push down back break it also operates the front left break. An when you bleed the back break you also may want to bleed the front left break. It took me about 30 to do both.
Brian Russell when I did mine I didn't have to bleed the front, when I left a battery holding pressure on the brake all night, all the air came all out when I bleed the back. Got hard as a rock.
My brake pedal started bottoming out and only slightly slowing the bike down. Used his other video to remove left bag. Put on new brake pads. The pedal still bottomed out. Tried adding weight to the pedal while leaving cap off reservoir. After a day I opened bleeder and let out maybe 1/2 ounce brake fluid and put cap back on reservoir and removed weight. It worked! However I don’t believe I can brake hard enough to lock up tire. Should goldwing brakes be able to lock up/ skid the back tire?
Well, I have a 1994 Goldwing and for years I have had a mushy brake pedal. I would stomp on it from time to time, over and over again, and I would get some of the pedal back, but the next time I rode, …. mushy.
I recently saw this video, as I was preparing to bleed my brakes to see if I could get the pedal back, and decided to try this first.
What I did:
I took the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, next to the battery.
I then took a paper towel to cover the reservoir, as I did not want anything getting in there.
I then pumped the brake pedal over and over and over until I got some pressure.
I used a clamp, but reversed it so it was a spreader, and held the pedal down and then put the spreader in place, and really cinched it down - hard.
I left it over night, about 20 hours or so.
I just went in to check the brake pedal. I removed the spreader off of the brake pedal and….. O-M-G! I have a solid brake pedal! I cannot believe how easy this was to do.
I put the reservoir cap back on.
And….. Done.
THANK YOU!
Great, easy tip to getting your brake pedal back.
Van we just change the sight glass on the reservoirs for front brakes and clutch on 1990 gl 1500 or do we have to replace entire reservoirs?
I just bought an 82 Gold wing I been trying to bleed the rear brakes. But no luck I can't even get fluid to the caliber
Use a vacuum bleeder
Good morning mate
I am from Brazil and would like to know if it is possible to put a car carburetor in the 1500 goldwing?
Same or similar to carburetor weber 2 and 1.6 petrol?
Please.
My present bikes are an 83gl1100, 2002 HONDA VFFR 800, & 1996gl1500 GoldwingSE. My 1500 p.o. Bought a trike, and the 1500 Sat for 2 years, it has A Problem that I like to fix myself. Rear brakes, the pedal is less then spongee ,no resistant at all. But the brake lights work. The handle bar brake handle works,and stops bike,, but No brake lights. My plan so far is to replace Brown fluid in rear, then start bleeding, I've looked at the rear fitting via, pulling rubber plug inside luggage bag, that looks like a pain, have you done a rear brake video? Should I remove bag to make it easier to get at? Any thoughts or suggestions, the p.o. Said it has new brakes & tires. It has 36k on clock.
Hello, nice demo and tips you give .... I also have a 1500 se from 1996, I have a problem with the rear brake: when I press the brake pedal (and I can press it without counter pressure) the rear wheel does not stop! only at the last half inch then the wheel stops, so actually I drive without a rear brake, seriously dangerous, do you have an idea where the mistake could be (replace brake oil?) before, it did everything perfectly but suddenly not anymore... .greeting ludo ( belgium )
I got a 88 goldwing trike and the back brake pedal go all the way down with no rear brakes I am going to try the weight idea
That sounds like it might work putting batteries on the brake pedal and let it sit overnight. I've been a mechanic for 50 years and never thought of that idea
buy a hand vacuum brake bleeder from Amazon for 21.95 and use it to suck out all the old fluid and sludge , bleeding the left front and then rear brake calipers and they should be good as new, you should change the brake fluid in your goldwing including the clutch master cylinder every couple years.
Do you need to open the bleeder valve while putting weight on the pedal?
Thank you
cliff ! I am ready to try your method of putting a heavy object on the rear brake pedal.
My rear brake stays spongy otherwise. There is a hole that you can get to the rear brake bleeder inside the rear saddle bag by the way ! At least on mine unless the previous owner used a hole saw and made one and then taped it back. Do you need to remove the cap or just loosen it ?
Gene Fuller as long as it is open, you can laid it a little bit to the side.
I had no braking action from the foot brake peddle at all, seen that works the back and left front caliper, couldn't get the vacuum bleeder on the rear through the hole, so bled the front till I got new fluid and can now stop with the foot brake, peddle is still a little soft so going to try leaving something heavy on the peddle to see if I can get full peddle
Left a weight on the peddle over night hoping to get a full peddle, it was better today, so I used the weight and pumped the brakes up and left the weight on it, I couldn't get the vacuum bleeder on the rear through the hole in the saddle bag, but I could reach the bleeder with a wrench so bled the last little bit air out if the rear and now have a good hard peddle
Clifford rocks!
I have seen this video once before, and i also found that when
bleeding the rear brake you must bleed the front left side as
well. If you don't, you will be wasting your time.
Do you have some video how to sync the carbs??
I thik the reason why putting a weight on the pedal and leaving it for a while is a solution, is the same reason mentioned by Steve Saunders in his Goldwing tip for doing the same with the front handbrake. What he does there is depress the front brake lever, wrap a bungee cord around it then leave it overnight. He sez this compressing effect reduces the size of any air bubbles in the hose , making their passage back up to the resevoir easier to go thru any bends and turns they have to negotiate enroute.
Of course with the back brake they have to traverse a horizontal cable, making the passage even trickier as any bubbles trapped there have no natural reason to go either way.
I had this problem once and to get any air bubbles to move along that hose length put the bike on its centre stand with the stand mounted on a kerbstone, then loaded the bike at the back so that the whole bike rested at an angle pointing upwards, ensuring that all things being equal the trapped air had as much incentive as I could give it to move, which did the trick.
My Valkyrie was wrecked a year ago.... I got her running again, but NO BACK BREAKS
Hey cliff there is a easyer way to bleed your back break on the gl1500. If you look in the left saddle bag. You will see a rubber seal. You can pull that rubber seal off. An you will see your rear master bleed valve. You don't have to take the hole saddle bag off.
Brian Russell I know, I just forgot about it when I made the video.
I tried to get the suction line on the bleeder through the hole and I could get it on, plus I have to remove the back to do tires so I guess I wait and do it all then, I bought the Wing with no back brake at all
Can't wait aweek don't believe what u say talk is cheap...amigo
Clifford....can you make a video on general lubrication points on the 1500. Other than engine and shaft oils...are there any grease points that need to be checked and regreased regularily?
Also looking for a good video on coolant flush. I found one from bike bandit store that does what seems to be a good..FULL clean flush out step1. drain step2. Fill with 50/50 distilled water/ white vinegar solution.. Run to temp to engage the water pump and let sit over night. Step3. Drain..and repeat step 2 with distilled water only. Step4. Fill with proper coolant mix for your climate. Im in Canada..50/50 premix.
i'll see what i can do.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN "FOLLOW IT DOWN"!?!? @ 5:45 in the video!?!!?
you got any time to help out with a rare storage shed find....84' GL1200a sat for 40 years and have some problems, only 5000 original miles that's right 5k!!, what say you?
I noticed the horns under your saddle bag. Are they electric or air? And did you make a video of the installation? New 1500 owner and thankful for your videos.
keep in mind,the rear brake master cylinder operates 1 side of front brakes also.i thought it was right side but not sure.so you have rear and also a front on one side.they say to do the bleeding on the front first and then on to the back caliper.
po dunc The front left brake is interlinked with the rear brakes on the GL1500. On the GL1200, the right front brake is interlinked with the rear brakes.
The left front brake caliper & rear brakes work 2gether if u bleed the left front caliper 1st u probably wont have to bleed the rear thats usually where the air gets in the line over time.
I recently purchased a 94 Honda Goldwing GL 1500. This is a step up from my Suzuki 250. And because of the weight I want to install on it a Voyager trike kit. I live out in no man's land. High Desert of Colorado. No dealers or installers within 300 miles. Aside from moving back to civilization is there anyone that you have or can recommend to show the actual install of the Voyager kit? Not looking for the top-end package looking for a custom looking vehicle though according to voyager's advertising. The brain does not agree with the body. The brain says 45 the mine says 70 years old. But I'm not ready to give up yet. Please respond to let me know if you know anybody who's done a complete install on a Honda Goldwing Voyager kit and had the foresight to show all of the sweat tears, frustration and completed package. Going through your Honda Goldwing videos one at a time and learning more and more about my new toy. closest knowledgeable installer I can find is in Alamogordo New Mexico Alamogordo. A 600-mile drive. thank you Cliff and keep up the good videos! PS, I am Mopar fan. My favorite was a 1968 Dodge Charger. But I also had a liking for the Plymouth Dusters.
you forgot one part to cut that little pipe by the banjo bolt makes it alot easier
There is actually an access hole inside the saddle bag to get to brake bleeder. But you may already know that.
when the bake brake is bled , people should know the the front left caliper is tied into the rear brake also .To bleed the front left brake , u have to do it by using the rear break pedal .
Wanted to let every one know the left front brake caliper is tied in with the rear system so if you don't get a good pedal you have not bleed the entire system.
how do you bleed the whole system? do you have a video ?
If i may.......The foot brake on the GL1500 also operates the front left caliper .The hand lever only operates the front right. So I get a helper to operate the foot peddel, and i bleed alot from the front left caliper, and I am able to bleed the entire system from the front
Thanks i did exactly what you said in the video left battery sitting on break for today and everything worked fine after pumping up the breaks.👍
@@Mrjam55tv awesome
I have starting trick for Honda lawnmowers that won't start after sitting all winter. Put new fuel in tank, put foot in front, to block front wheel from moving forward! Then lift mower by handle so mower is standing straight up for minute, then lower to ground an start. Method not work here, unless you can put your foot in front of front wheel an balance motorcycle on its head an front wheel! Haha! There is usually some Trick!
Don't you also have to bleed the right front caliper too?
its the left front caliper that's tie in to the rear master cylinder. I forgot to mention it, because i was focus on helpful tips, than the actual process. I've have a video later to cover all that info later.
That's good to know! I thought they were on opposite sides to counter veering when braking hard,
Dennis Hill i thought so to, but I looked in the book to double check.
yes wokrs the front brake ONLY RIGHT SIDE ,,Lefr master cylinder is for the CLUTCH, just found this out Rear brake controls left side brake Rotor on 1500 Goldwings, TED
The brake system operates the front left caliper and the rear.....jk.....lol...as if enough ppl haven't already said that. But Hey ...at least I spelled brake correctly....lol...and NO...I'm not the spelling police for you tube...
An if will not bleed out from brake
Belea from master. Then bleed from brake
Are you in mississippi
So why didn't you try bleeding the front left caliper as well seeing the GL1500's has a linked brake system where the foot brake pedal operates the rear brake caliper and the front left brake caliper only
Brian McCallum , this was a tip not the actual process, although I should of mention that the rear master cylinder is tie into left front as well. Sometimes I forget that not everyone know what I know. But really to do this tip you only need to bleed one to be affective.
Brian McCallum do you know why they wouldn't have a vacuum on the left head to make the left carburetor work
thats why i use a vacuum bleeder
Spending the first 2 minutes in musical fanfare and asking for likes was annoying so I skipped over it. Found some of the explanation interesting. Always pretty good? How long is a good while? Anyhow the point is to hold the brake down for however long it takes (I guess). Thanks
It don't get hard for me neither my friend..
You can buy my 1996 Goldwing
not sure if anyone else posted this already because I'm a lazy asshole that doesn't read the comments before posting my own. The left front brake caliper has to be bled too. surely no one else has already said that.
All right..?