One more upgrade I'd do to a t maxx classic to go with your upgraded servos makes it simpler, longer lasting radio power, and more convenient.. if you haven't already GET RID of the stock receiver battery and harness system (it uses 4AA batteries underneath rhe cover that's held on eith 4 screws that have soft strip prone heads), and replace with it instead a 5 cell NiMH hump style 6V receiver pack along with an upgraded aftermarket receiver harness (traxxas harness is ok just not very tough and can't take much power.. upgraded harnesses also have an inline connector for recharging without removing anything and a 5 cell NiMH receiver pack will make your servos work at their very best or at least better than 4AA batteries as they also last much longer on charge, save you money since you're recharging instead of replacing, and they have a little higher snd more consistent power output which is why your servos will work better for speed wnd torque)... only other upgrades i'd say helps reduce exhaust oil buildup on side of truck is a good tuned pipe (Traxxas Resonator is a solid choice made for 2.5 and 3.3 engines as t maxx takes a special shaped one for $45 easy swap to do and gives instantly more power and cool looks too but engine will need retuning to take advantage of the extra flow the pipe gives and if you want add on a revo or Dubro exhaust deflector too that'll help with exhaust residue but may affect tune in engine a little.... )
We have a public park turned rc race track and 95% of rc are electric. I noticed people pay attention to nitro over electric even when electric are faster and can bash better. So I'm trying to keep it alive!
I'm curious about the cage on the E Maxx. Could you do a video about the cage? I would like to know more about it. I enjoy your channel, keep up the good work.
Edit/add-on to my previous post from 10 months ago.. to make your 2.5/classic maxx run it's best IF u run a 2.5/2.5r (same engine just different looking head), or 3.3 (watch rod splitting its a common failure as is grenading a piston my buddy blew 2 pistons both were brand new 3.3 engines in his nitro slash)... 1: os 18tm/21tm maxx header (larger and bit shorter than the stock maxx header but it has more flow and power (it'll change exhaust tone slightly.. spring mounted so it's safer to run less risk to hurting the engine when it gets hit)... 2: resonator pipe is ok BUT if u want the best get a Novarossi pipe (hard to come by but it's a performer.. may need an exhaust deflector with a 2.5 engine since it has maybe a too large outlet/stinger for a 2.5 engine), Rick Ritter tuned pipe (if he has any left anymore or if u find one), or spend serious money and get an ERCM Pipe (custom made, it is a screamer for performance and LOUD! Sounds like no other as it's made from stainless steel.. any type of steel for a pipe and a 2 stroke engine is a beautiful marriage!) 3: run a good 30% nitro with 8-12% oil content (it'll run stronger, tune easier, and run colder.. stay away from ALL traxxas fuels they have 16% and even 23% oil in their blends makes the engine run hot.. Sidewinder, Morgan, VP, and Bones Brew are good fuels) 4: ditch traxxas 3232x plugs (they are inconsistent and junky) for OS LC3 or the colder OS LC4 plugs (they're more expensive but they're made better and run better as well as they can last longer) 5: ditch traxxas carb and swap to an OS 11K carb (direct fit for 2.5 and 3.3 engines.. night and day difference in terms of tuning ease, holds a stable tune, tunes predictably, and u gain more power down low and everywhere.. it is expensive but its worth it! Also Losi 3.4 carb will work for less money but being discontinued it is hard to find.. also bare minimum the unbranded yet stock looking 2.5/3.3 carb on amazon works lil better than stock traxxas carb) 6: for a 2.5 and 2.5r engine if u wanna do some wrenching and have no fear (it's an easy one I hear).. tear it down and swap the 2.5 crank for a 3.3 crank (direct fit in dimensions.. it's a lighter crank with larger center thru hole bore for more flow.. it WILL make your 2.5/2.5r rev higher and make even more power...) I've a t maxx 2.5 with a stock 3.3 in it (along with os header, os 11k carb, and currently a novarossi pipe which I'll swap later to an ERCM Pipe...)... running Bones Brew 30% nitro 10% oil and with 21/72 gearing for bit more speed she's a true MONSTER! tunes like a dream, holds a tune like nothing else, and very drivable till u unleash the beast and she's ridiculously mean! I worry breaking a clutch but so far so good on stock 2 shoe (flywheel is a Robinson Racing vented 2 shoe flywheel, and stock 2 traxxas shoes with stock slipper clutch nothing crazy.. I even have reverse still installed will be dropping in a forward only transmission soon as I get it) Btw if u read all this so far.. u can find me on fb with my revo and in messenger with my nitro electric rc room
Yo broo great vid! Quick question hopefully you can help me out with, we have a tmaxx classic with the 2.5r engine but it keeps burning the glo plugs, we had it super rich but engine would bog but now the truck runs ok but keeps burning the glo plugs, any suggestions or tips? Thanks again brotha!
If the truck keeps on burning up glow plug it is more than likely still to rich. If they are really dark and have a sludge/ oil layer on them when you take them out then it is still to rich. But if that isn’t the case, the only thing I can think of is maybe glow igniter issues. If you check the temps of your truck then that will tell you what is happening. If it is temping 180-200 degrees Fahrenheit with the body on then it is still a little rich, it should temp roughly 220-240. Hopes this helps!!
Yea I thought they were the same also. Better head = better cooling = hotter tune for more power. 🤷🏼♂️ makes sense to me anyway. Years ago I put the blue head on the OG 2.5 I definitely got gains from it.
I chose the 2.5r because it’s a little bit better on fuel economy. With it being a .15 and not a .20 it doesn’t burn as much fuel as the bigger engine. But I also chose it because I wanted to keep the truck a little bit original.
I chose the 2.5r because it’s a little bit better on fuel economy. With it being a .15 and not a .20 it doesn’t burn as much fuel as the bigger engine. But I also chose it because I wanted to keep the truck a little bit original. Appreciate the comment!
recently did a DIY electric conversion. 6S on a 2250KV motor with 150A esc... The thing has never been faster or more reliable... Upgraded shocks, shocktowers and axles and the gearbox is locked in 2nd gear....
@@GoFastRC It absolutely does... Heres a short video of me running it carefully! Lol I just noticed a crack in one of my bulkheads after watching your vid, so I took your advice and ordered some aluminum ones...! czcams.com/video/eh1W5TXYBr8/video.html
@@GoFastRC I literally have both the engines. I inspected them. From what the naked human eye can see and what my micrometer can tell me everything is the same.
@@norrisdustlessblasting4507 if u can tune then they are pretty solid. But comparing them to a nice OS isnt fair. There is a reason they come with the car.
The only difference from the 2.5 and the 2.5R is just the blue head I’ve taken both motor apart and the rest is identical sry to say
One more upgrade I'd do to a t maxx classic to go with your upgraded servos makes it simpler, longer lasting radio power, and more convenient.. if you haven't already GET RID of the stock receiver battery and harness system (it uses 4AA batteries underneath rhe cover that's held on eith 4 screws that have soft strip prone heads), and replace with it instead a 5 cell NiMH hump style 6V receiver pack along with an upgraded aftermarket receiver harness (traxxas harness is ok just not very tough and can't take much power.. upgraded harnesses also have an inline connector for recharging without removing anything and a 5 cell NiMH receiver pack will make your servos work at their very best or at least better than 4AA batteries as they also last much longer on charge, save you money since you're recharging instead of replacing, and they have a little higher snd more consistent power output which is why your servos will work better for speed wnd torque)... only other upgrades i'd say helps reduce exhaust oil buildup on side of truck is a good tuned pipe (Traxxas Resonator is a solid choice made for 2.5 and 3.3 engines as t maxx takes a special shaped one for $45 easy swap to do and gives instantly more power and cool looks too but engine will need retuning to take advantage of the extra flow the pipe gives and if you want add on a revo or Dubro exhaust deflector too that'll help with exhaust residue but may affect tune in engine a little.... )
2.5 and 2.5R are the same engine with different cooling heads... Traxxas pulled a fast one on you brotha
It used to have a bit more changes tho. The initial 2.5r (before the 3.3 came out) had a few differences compared to the current 2.5 and 2.5r
Just add a 3.3 crank shaft inside the 2.5 and it’s upgraded js
LOL !! Have you ever looked inside a 3.3 engine ? I guess not cause you would know that it has the exact same crankshaft as the 2.5.
@@stevil77 ahahah
Just picked up a classic .15 Tmaxx. Nice to see this video as far as chassis upgrades go. Nice vid bro.
Great info man love it keep doing what you do we need more videos like this out there
Thanks for the support!! I really love the tmaxx and I ordered a new mt so hopefully it comes soon!!
rpm a-arms and bulkheads are a must i break too many
Yeah, they are kinda brittle from the factory. Appreciate the support!!
Thanks bro! I'm building a Tmaxx 3.3 and this video helped me make up my mind!
No problem! Glad to hear there is gonna be more 3.3s ripping around!
We have a public park turned rc race track and 95% of rc are electric. I noticed people pay attention to nitro over electric even when electric are faster and can bash better. So I'm trying to keep it alive!
How about 3.3 I am putting in my old classic one
I went with the 3.3. Because I thought the same thing the 2.5r is the 2.5 with a blue cooling head
The 3.3 was a big difference. She'll pull wheelies any time now where with the 2.5 I had to work it just right might of been the tune tho.
Thanks for the pointers.
I'm curious about the cage on the E Maxx. Could you do a video about the cage? I would like to know more about it. I enjoy your channel, keep up the good work.
Sure I can!
the 2.5 and the 2.5r the r has a machined head as the 2.5 is cast
My old tmaxx has been going strong even after some really bad wrecks and flips nothing broken.
Sweeet my truck has been going but I have broken a few things a long the way. 😂😂 appreciate the support!!
Edit/add-on to my previous post from 10 months ago.. to make your 2.5/classic maxx run it's best IF u run a 2.5/2.5r (same engine just different looking head), or 3.3 (watch rod splitting its a common failure as is grenading a piston my buddy blew 2 pistons both were brand new 3.3 engines in his nitro slash)...
1: os 18tm/21tm maxx header (larger and bit shorter than the stock maxx header but it has more flow and power (it'll change exhaust tone slightly.. spring mounted so it's safer to run less risk to hurting the engine when it gets hit)...
2: resonator pipe is ok BUT if u want the best get a Novarossi pipe (hard to come by but it's a performer.. may need an exhaust deflector with a 2.5 engine since it has maybe a too large outlet/stinger for a 2.5 engine), Rick Ritter tuned pipe (if he has any left anymore or if u find one), or spend serious money and get an ERCM Pipe (custom made, it is a screamer for performance and LOUD! Sounds like no other as it's made from stainless steel.. any type of steel for a pipe and a 2 stroke engine is a beautiful marriage!)
3: run a good 30% nitro with 8-12% oil content (it'll run stronger, tune easier, and run colder.. stay away from ALL traxxas fuels they have 16% and even 23% oil in their blends makes the engine run hot.. Sidewinder, Morgan, VP, and Bones Brew are good fuels)
4: ditch traxxas 3232x plugs (they are inconsistent and junky) for OS LC3 or the colder OS LC4 plugs (they're more expensive but they're made better and run better as well as they can last longer)
5: ditch traxxas carb and swap to an OS 11K carb (direct fit for 2.5 and 3.3 engines.. night and day difference in terms of tuning ease, holds a stable tune, tunes predictably, and u gain more power down low and everywhere.. it is expensive but its worth it! Also Losi 3.4 carb will work for less money but being discontinued it is hard to find.. also bare minimum the unbranded yet stock looking 2.5/3.3 carb on amazon works lil better than stock traxxas carb)
6: for a 2.5 and 2.5r engine if u wanna do some wrenching and have no fear (it's an easy one I hear).. tear it down and swap the 2.5 crank for a 3.3 crank (direct fit in dimensions.. it's a lighter crank with larger center thru hole bore for more flow.. it WILL make your 2.5/2.5r rev higher and make even more power...)
I've a t maxx 2.5 with a stock 3.3 in it (along with os header, os 11k carb, and currently a novarossi pipe which I'll swap later to an ERCM Pipe...)... running Bones Brew 30% nitro 10% oil and with 21/72 gearing for bit more speed she's a true MONSTER! tunes like a dream, holds a tune like nothing else, and very drivable till u unleash the beast and she's ridiculously mean! I worry breaking a clutch but so far so good on stock 2 shoe (flywheel is a Robinson Racing vented 2 shoe flywheel, and stock 2 traxxas shoes with stock slipper clutch nothing crazy.. I even have reverse still installed will be dropping in a forward only transmission soon as I get it)
Btw if u read all this so far.. u can find me on fb with my revo and in messenger with my nitro electric rc room
Thanks Go Fast!
Yo edgar I had no idea that the shaking is not from or because of the transmission it’s all tuning
My best upgrade for my classic Tmaxx was ripping out the oily dirty had to always tune nitro engine and converting it to brushless.
hey bro nice video, what is the model of the servos?
Protek 100t and 100ss
I think they stopped making the aluminum bulk heads for these.
Yo broo great vid! Quick question hopefully you can help me out with, we have a tmaxx classic with the 2.5r engine but it keeps burning the glo plugs, we had it super rich but engine would bog but now the truck runs ok but keeps burning the glo plugs, any suggestions or tips? Thanks again brotha!
If the truck keeps on burning up glow plug it is more than likely still to rich. If they are really dark and have a sludge/ oil layer on them when you take them out then it is still to rich. But if that isn’t the case, the only thing I can think of is maybe glow igniter issues. If you check the temps of your truck then that will tell you what is happening. If it is temping 180-200 degrees Fahrenheit with the body on then it is still a little rich, it should temp roughly 220-240. Hopes this helps!!
@@GoFastRC thanks bro ill try that outt
@@martinperez2288 try switching to different temp plug
I have a 2.5 classic with locked diffs so i had to do a conversion kit where do the rear tie rods tie in 2 or have they been deleted with the kit?
Unfortunately the only difference between a 2.5 and 2.5r is the head, they are exactly the same inside
From what I heard the 2.5 makes more power and is ported for more air flow. But that just what I have heard. Appreciate the support!!
Yea I thought they were the same also. Better head = better cooling = hotter tune for more power. 🤷🏼♂️ makes sense to me anyway. Years ago I put the blue head on the OG 2.5 I definitely got gains from it.
@@lonestarr673 makes sense to me too, might even be cheaper to just get a regular 2.5 and head swap it
Thank you
2:06 - at that point shouldn’t you just upgrade to the 3.3? Or no? How come you chose the 2.5r and not the 3.3?
I chose the 2.5r because it’s a little bit better on fuel economy. With it being a .15 and not a .20 it doesn’t burn as much fuel as the bigger engine. But I also chose it because I wanted to keep the truck a little bit original.
I chose the 2.5r because it’s a little bit better on fuel economy. With it being a .15 and not a .20 it doesn’t burn as much fuel as the bigger engine. But I also chose it because I wanted to keep the truck a little bit original. Appreciate the comment!
First
Appreciate the support!!
recently did a DIY electric conversion. 6S on a 2250KV motor with 150A esc... The thing has never been faster or more reliable...
Upgraded shocks, shocktowers and axles and the gearbox is locked in 2nd gear....
Sweet!! That thing sounds like it shreds!!
@@GoFastRC
It absolutely does... Heres a short video of me running it carefully! Lol
I just noticed a crack in one of my bulkheads after watching your vid, so I took your advice and ordered some aluminum ones...!
czcams.com/video/eh1W5TXYBr8/video.html
Placebo effect is at it again lmao. 2.5 and 2.5r are literally the same engine. Only difference is the head.
Porting is different. Talked to a traxxas rep about it.
@@GoFastRC I literally have both the engines. I inspected them. From what the naked human eye can see and what my micrometer can tell me everything is the same.
Just get a 3.3🤷🏽♂️
Dynamite 19 is much better engine
That Traxxas engine is garbage. Get a Os
If you know how to run them the traxxas engines are pretty decent.
@@GoFastRC all rtr nitro engines are junk.
@@norrisdustlessblasting4507 if u can tune then they are pretty solid. But comparing them to a nice OS isnt fair. There is a reason they come with the car.