I bought the same tool (MACS Fabrication?) from Virginia Classic Mustang for my '66 coupe. This is the best and probably safest way to do the front springs. On my car, once the springs were compressed about 7 inches, I also unbolted the spring perch from the upper a arm, and unbolted the a arm bolts to the shock tower. Once that was done, just swiveled the a arm out on the ball joint, then uncompressed the spring..
I bought and used this tool. It was awesome for removal; for installation, well, it was not so awesome. I spent two hours installing one spring. This problem is that as you compress the spring, the bottom spring perch rotates, and now the holes do not line up with the control arm holes. I had to compress and decompress multiple times to get the holes to be close. That was a PITA. The second issue is the angle of the bolts on the perch does not line up with the control arm. I had to back the bolt out, line up with a crowbar, and use a wench to turn it into place. The tool is of great quality, but the reassembly process is very frustrating.
I'm about to do this (for the first time!). I'm confused at your starting point...what is keeping the spring in place at all with just an A arm and saddle? I still have the stabilizer bar end link, strut rod, lower arm, etc. I was under the assumption that those were holding the upper arm "up" and therefore keeping the spring in place?
I bought the same tool (MACS Fabrication?) from Virginia Classic Mustang for my '66 coupe. This is the best and probably safest way to do the front springs. On my car, once the springs were compressed about 7 inches, I also unbolted the spring perch from the upper a arm, and unbolted the a arm bolts to the shock tower. Once that was done, just swiveled the a arm out on the ball joint, then uncompressed the spring..
I bought and used this tool. It was awesome for removal; for installation, well, it was not so awesome. I spent two hours installing one spring. This problem is that as you compress the spring, the bottom spring perch rotates, and now the holes do not line up with the control arm holes. I had to compress and decompress multiple times to get the holes to be close. That was a PITA. The second issue is the angle of the bolts on the perch does not line up with the control arm. I had to back the bolt out, line up with a crowbar, and use a wench to turn it into place.
The tool is of great quality, but the reassembly process is very frustrating.
Interesting. Since I installed coil overs I didn't have to deal with that. I wonder what the 'trick' is?
Very Nice Tool . i have been always scared too remove those springs !
I'm about to do this (for the first time!). I'm confused at your starting point...what is keeping the spring in place at all with just an A arm and saddle? I still have the stabilizer bar end link, strut rod, lower arm, etc. I was under the assumption that those were holding the upper arm "up" and therefore keeping the spring in place?
I'm going to rebuild my front suspension on my 1960 Ford Thunderbird, this tool from Auto Krafters says it's not compatible? Any advise.
I got nuthin'. Never worked on anything that old.
Do you have a Reassembly video? Great video
I do not, because I put Viking coil overs on the car.