Well, I for one really enjoyed your video. Good material and good hacks. Thank you for taking the time and effort to show these hacks. I like the hole saw idea. I will be giving it a try. Cheers!
Well I was gonna pick that apart but for facing off small parts,, quick simple jobs especially with brass or aluminum I’ll definitely keep that in mind and can see myself actually going to same thing sometime.. 👍
Well Ive just watched this thru again[I know I need to get a grip] and thought to comment again but you are giving out what we call “ warts’n’all’ advice here and its very enjoyable watching. Also I see your a good boy and wash behind your ears 16.05 like your mother taught you. 😎👍Kind Regards Stuart Bell from England.
I enjoyed the Video 👍 that’s a Great way to save some Money. For being a Hobby, I don’t need a Mirror Finish. It looks like this Hole Saw conversion works good enough for most of the things I am attempting. Just picked up Machining not too long ago, so after the Price of the Machines and all the other things that go with it. Being able to save a little here and there helps a lot. Thanks for Posting.
Hi I was thinking along the hole saw as face mill last week so much cheaper. Yet I think you're the first to break thru this idea. Also never know one needs to tune up before milling. Wonder you can elaborate clearer the face and clearance angle to grind. Thanks so much, now I can own a cheap face mill instead of spending on real stuff!
You might try putting a Rod in the Hole Saw, Tightening the Allen and Machining the Shaft that way. If it will hold, it seems like it would save a lot of Time getting it Zeroed in the Chuck. You probably already tried this but I thought I would mention it.
Interesting use of a hole saw. Re centering the saw in the 4-jaw: Because you have the arbor sticking out you could just put the hole saw in the tailstock drill chuck and use that to center the saw in the chuck and rotate the chuck to find which jaw will hit the teeth.
Nice tips. The big problem with a collet chuck is you lose a lot of Z height, however, the convenience for most projects makes it worth it, I have an ER32 collet chuck on my round column mill drill and an ER40 collet chuck on my knee mill and an ER20 on my little Sherline CNC mill. You can get a 50mm face mill with R8 holder and carbide inserts for much less than 50 bucks from our friends in China. Another option is to make a fly cutter from scrap and grind or use a left-hand HHS lathe tool. I've made several in different sizes up to a 3 inch that will swing 5 inches with the tool bit extended. What lathe do you have it looks like a South Bend 10 inch? Thanks for the video!
Good comments, glad you enjoyed it. I've never tried a fly cutter, though it does seem easy enough to make. If I had it to do over again, i'd have gone with er32 or er40 collet chuck for the Mill drill. Yes, that's a 1941 South Bend 10L on its original us air Force cabinet. I'm pretty sure it was in a trailer-mounted mobile machine shop.
Thanks. Cool lathe especially with the under drive. I have a 1948 9A and a 1917 15"x96". Can't get enough South Bends. er32 is a really good all around size gives you small to clear up to about 3/4" but the er40 goes up to an inch. If you have the time try a fly cutter they are very easy to make and the finish is amazing as long as your mill is in tram. 😀 Sometimes not easy to do.
Okay Bob...you can't start a video with a lie and expect people to listen! You said something about "a few minutes"... :) That being said...I learned a lot!
I have the same ER25 on my RF31 but never use a chuck for drill bits since the extended length increases runout, just use the collets alone. You can buy a face mill on banggood for $15, 10 inserts are $6 on ebay: www.banggood.com/4-Flute-400R-50mm-22-Face-End-Mill-Endmill-Facing-CNC-Milling-Cutter-p-972285.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
It's not the taper that keeps the R8 shank from spinning as a Morse taper does, rather it's the groove in the the side of the shank that locks on to a nib inside the spindle. The taper might help, but it's the keyed groove and nib that really holds it.
That's incorrect, and I can prove it. My quill, along with many other people's quills that I've heard about, does not have the internal nib. It was sheared off or removed long before I got the machine. I can rotate my R8 shanks any direction I desire until the point that there is enough upward pressure from the drawbar to engage the taper's friction. It has to be the taper, there's nothing else there.
New subscriber from across the pond in uk. I keep breaking teeth off and I havent been dropped... seriously though some great hacks in there, I,m on the brink of a round column mill myself wish me luck Kind Regards Stuart Bell from uk
I see its a while since you uplaoded a vid. You are a very good communicator and must already be a teacher for sure. Your explanations are crystal clear. I had a grasp of phase converters before watching you 2 episodes on the subject but you cover all aspects very clearly with all the right detail. Regards Stuart
Ok. I'll bite. What's the difference? I mean I'm certain that you're using a more accurate nomenclature. But is there a meaningful difference in using the incorrect term? What if I just said twisty?
At least you didn't lie about 'hacks' Have fun with your machining, get some copper, brass or aluminium sheet for 'shimming' stuff. A mall nut will localise the pressure. That was actually pretty scary to watch.
@@TheBuildist Pretty much all of it. I'm always broke and often in debt (after spine surgery I'm just about unemployable, my wife supports me) I would make a fly-cutter before I used a hole saw as a face mill. It was never designed to take side loading and is only a thin tube. You may be aware of this but some newbie could try it and get real hurt. Just in case you are not aware of the fact, there is a lot of 'monkey see, monkey do' on the internet. Posting a disclaimer doesn't change the fact that your doing something stupid and other people may copy you
@@peterjones6945 I still don't see how you'd get hurt with it. It could leave an ugly finish on your part if you break a tooth off. But even at an insane spindle speed, it's such a small diameter that it's still not travelling terribly fast. Between the small mass and the slow speed, a broken tooth coming off wouldn't even break skin. A newbie is much more likely to hurt himself via a potentially loose HSS toolbit in a flycutter. But even that is still pretty limited danger. But thanks for your honest opinion. I really value feedback from knowledgeable people, even if I don't always agree.
@@TheBuildist I was teaching at a trade school for almost 12 years. You could not imagine how many different ways people manage to hurt themselves. As I said, you may be aware of the risks but there will be people out there that see a hole saw being used and not watch or listen to the entire video. It would probably be a good idea to send people to this site as Marc actually taught this stuff and now retired does it for fun to pass on knowledge that is being lost because majority of 'machinists' are now CNC programmers www.thatlazymachinist.com/
Seriously.. We’re here because we already know what a mill does and we also know what a drill does and most of us know that a mill/drill is a piece of crap,, we just wanna see what you’ve done,, that’s it,, No lesson required..!!
Well, I for one really enjoyed your video. Good material and good hacks. Thank you for taking the time and effort to show these hacks. I like the hole saw idea. I will be giving it a try. Cheers!
Well I was gonna pick that apart but for facing off small parts,, quick simple jobs especially with brass or aluminum I’ll definitely keep that in mind and can see myself actually going to same thing sometime..
👍
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very interesting.
Enjoyed that. Just picked up my Enco mill drill last night so I'm really just getting started with all of this. New Sub!
Well Ive just watched this thru again[I know I need to get a grip] and thought to comment again but you are giving out what we call “ warts’n’all’ advice here and its very enjoyable watching. Also I see your a good boy and wash behind your ears 16.05 like your mother taught you. 😎👍Kind Regards Stuart Bell from England.
Lol. All compliments are appreciated even if they are about my personal hygiene! Lol!
I enjoyed the Video 👍 that’s a Great way to save some Money. For being a Hobby, I don’t need a Mirror Finish. It looks like this Hole Saw conversion works good enough for most of the things I am attempting. Just picked up Machining not too long ago, so after the Price of the Machines and all the other things that go with it. Being able to save a little here and there helps a lot. Thanks for Posting.
Nice video and good multi use of the collet holder.
Hi I was thinking along the hole saw as face mill last week so much cheaper. Yet I think you're the first to break thru this idea.
Also never know one needs to tune up before milling. Wonder you can elaborate clearer the face and clearance angle to grind. Thanks so much, now I can own a cheap face mill instead of spending on real stuff!
TCT = Tungsten Carbide Tipped now you know
Fenner won the belt every time he was in the competition at Arn Fest(?), at least everyone I saw.
That's quite an interesting hack to get a face mill, with brazed tungsten carbide tips ground to the correct edge for a home machine.
TCT = 'tungsten carbide tipped'.
get you some roto broach's and get rid of the hole saws you will never look back
You might try putting a Rod in the Hole Saw, Tightening the Allen and Machining the Shaft that way. If it will hold, it seems like it would save a lot of Time getting it Zeroed in the Chuck. You probably already tried this but I thought I would mention it.
Not a bad idea. I'll give it a try next time.
Interesting use of a hole saw.
Re centering the saw in the 4-jaw: Because you have the arbor sticking out you could just put the hole saw in the tailstock drill chuck and use that to center the saw in the chuck and rotate the chuck to find which jaw will hit the teeth.
That’s a good idea!
hang on....your battery died ? that was the shot we all wanted to see
Nice tips. The big problem with a collet chuck is you lose a lot of Z height, however, the convenience for most projects makes it worth it, I have an ER32 collet chuck on my round column mill drill and an ER40 collet chuck on my knee mill and an ER20 on my little Sherline CNC mill. You can get a 50mm face mill with R8 holder and carbide inserts for much less than 50 bucks from our friends in China. Another option is to make a fly cutter from scrap and grind or use a left-hand HHS lathe tool. I've made several in different sizes up to a 3 inch that will swing 5 inches with the tool bit extended. What lathe do you have it looks like a South Bend 10 inch? Thanks for the video!
Good comments, glad you enjoyed it. I've never tried a fly cutter, though it does seem easy enough to make. If I had it to do over again, i'd have gone with er32 or er40 collet chuck for the Mill drill. Yes, that's a 1941 South Bend 10L on its original us air Force cabinet. I'm pretty sure it was in a trailer-mounted mobile machine shop.
Thanks. Cool lathe especially with the under drive. I have a 1948 9A and a 1917 15"x96". Can't get enough South Bends. er32 is a really good all around size gives you small to clear up to about 3/4" but the er40 goes up to an inch. If you have the time try a fly cutter they are very easy to make and the finish is amazing as long as your mill is in tram. 😀 Sometimes not easy to do.
Okay Bob...you can't start a video with a lie and expect people to listen! You said something about "a few minutes"... :) That being said...I learned a lot!
LOL. To me, it felt like just a few minutes. "time flies when you're having fun."
I have the same ER25 on my RF31 but never use a chuck for drill bits since the extended length increases runout, just use the collets alone. You can buy a face mill on banggood for $15, 10 inserts are $6 on ebay: www.banggood.com/4-Flute-400R-50mm-22-Face-End-Mill-Endmill-Facing-CNC-Milling-Cutter-p-972285.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
It's not the taper that keeps the R8 shank from spinning as a Morse taper does, rather it's the groove in the the side of the shank that locks on to a nib inside the spindle. The taper might help, but it's the keyed groove and nib that really holds it.
That's incorrect, and I can prove it. My quill, along with many other people's quills that I've heard about, does not have the internal nib. It was sheared off or removed long before I got the machine. I can rotate my R8 shanks any direction I desire until the point that there is enough upward pressure from the drawbar to engage the taper's friction.
It has to be the taper, there's nothing else there.
New subscriber from across the pond in uk. I keep breaking teeth off and I havent been dropped... seriously though some great hacks in there, I,m on the brink of a round column mill myself wish me luck Kind Regards Stuart Bell from uk
Lol. I've got to try harder to stop breaking off teeth!
I see its a while since you uplaoded a vid. You are a very good communicator and must already be a teacher for sure. Your explanations are crystal clear. I had a grasp of phase converters before watching you 2 episodes on the subject but you cover all aspects very clearly with all the right detail. Regards Stuart
Could you repeat that in a different way ? Thanks.
I use ER 32 I would like to get ER 40. Just because you never know when you need it.🙂
That's very true. Almost never any such thing as too big.
The end mill has HELICAL FLUTES not "Spiral"
Ok. I'll bite. What's the difference? I mean I'm certain that you're using a more accurate nomenclature. But is there a meaningful difference in using the incorrect term?
What if I just said twisty?
At least you didn't lie about 'hacks' Have fun with your machining, get some copper, brass or aluminium sheet for 'shimming' stuff. A mall nut will localise the pressure. That was actually pretty scary to watch.
Which part was scary?
@@TheBuildist Pretty much all of it. I'm always broke and often in debt (after spine surgery I'm just about unemployable, my wife supports me) I would make a fly-cutter before I used a hole saw as a face mill. It was never designed to take side loading and is only a thin tube. You may be aware of this but some newbie could try it and get real hurt. Just in case you are not aware of the fact, there is a lot of 'monkey see, monkey do' on the internet. Posting a disclaimer doesn't change the fact that your doing something stupid and other people may copy you
@@peterjones6945 I still don't see how you'd get hurt with it. It could leave an ugly finish on your part if you break a tooth off. But even at an insane spindle speed, it's such a small diameter that it's still not travelling terribly fast. Between the small mass and the slow speed, a broken tooth coming off wouldn't even break skin. A newbie is much more likely to hurt himself via a potentially loose HSS toolbit in a flycutter. But even that is still pretty limited danger.
But thanks for your honest opinion. I really value feedback from knowledgeable people, even if I don't always agree.
@@TheBuildist I was teaching at a trade school for almost 12 years. You could not imagine how many different ways people manage to hurt themselves. As I said, you may be aware of the risks but there will be people out there that see a hole saw being used and not watch or listen to the entire video. It would probably be a good idea to send people to this site as Marc actually taught this stuff and now retired does it for fun to pass on knowledge that is being lost because majority of 'machinists' are now CNC programmers www.thatlazymachinist.com/
Seriously.. We’re here because we already know what a mill does and we also know what a drill does and most of us know that a mill/drill is a piece of crap,, we just wanna see what you’ve done,, that’s it,, No lesson required..!!
A poor craftsman always blames his tools.
You sound like a miniature train builder.