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The Buildist
United States
Registrace 8. 11. 2018
Custom Aluminum Tool Case
Building a custom tool case from repurposed aluminum. A fun Christmas present for someone who is important to me and to this channel.
zhlédnutí: 572
Video
Bicycular Transgendrification
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 10 měsíci
I need a bike, and I got a great deal on a girl's bike. So let's do some snipping and stitching.
Shop Hacks: Building a Master Drillbit Organizer
zhlédnutí 22KPřed rokem
If you're like me, you need to keep onhand more than one of each size of drillbit. This master drillbit organizer has a slot for each size of drillbit from 1/16" up to 1/2", with room for 6 to 10 bits for each size. I store all my fractional bits in here, and can instantly find any size I need, and instantly tell if I'm running low on any given size. This video covers the conception, design and...
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 6: Finale
zhlédnutí 11KPřed rokem
Wrapping up the series, an overview of the loader's final details: Hydraulic hoses, detachable bucket, detachable forks, and footage of the loader in use.
The Buildist's Basement Shop Tour
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed rokem
A detailed/guided tour around the shop. For the very bored or very curious!
ShopHacks: Making the Most of a Small Shop Space
zhlédnutí 3,2KPřed rokem
4 strategies I've developed to make the most effective use of a space-challenged shop.
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 5: Hydraulics (The Result)
zhlédnutí 6KPřed rokem
A brief overview of the loader's final as-built hydraulic configuration
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 5: Hydraulics (The Story)
zhlédnutí 10KPřed rokem
The long-winded story of how I added a loader valve to the factory hydraulic system of an Ingersoll 2020PS. Hydraulic theory, flow and pressure, benefits and drawbacks of different design options. Power beyond and priority splitting valve concepts.
Railroad Track Anvil
zhlédnutí 518Před rokem
A quick-and-dirty anvil made from a section of railroad track and a cutoff piece from a forklift fork/tine
First time using removable brush grapple
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed rokem
Completed brush grapple being put to its first test.
Using a Tachometer as an Arduino Display
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 2 lety
Using a Tachometer as an Arduino Display
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 4: Steel Structure
zhlédnutí 54KPřed 2 lety
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 4: Steel Structure
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 3: Frame Reinforcement and 3 Point Hitch install
zhlédnutí 35KPřed 3 lety
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 3: Frame Reinforcement and 3 Point Hitch install
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 2: Final Axle Modifications
zhlédnutí 42KPřed 3 lety
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 2: Final Axle Modifications
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 1: Rebuilding the Front Axle
zhlédnutí 157KPřed 3 lety
Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 1: Rebuilding the Front Axle
ShopHacks: One Simple Trick to cut large holes in thick steel
zhlédnutí 62KPřed 3 lety
ShopHacks: One Simple Trick to cut large holes in thick steel
Tool Hacks: Quick and Easy Gear Knob Puller
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 3 lety
Tool Hacks: Quick and Easy Gear Knob Puller
Locking Mechanism for a FORTY MILLIMETER GRENADE LAUNCHER (NOT .50 Caliber) Ammo Box
zhlédnutí 829Před 4 lety
Locking Mechanism for a FORTY MILLIMETER GRENADE LAUNCHER (NOT .50 Caliber) Ammo Box
Great instructional video
The tie rod wouldn't fit on top?
Great Tutorial! I have questions. Can we run two RPC in parallel?
I'm afraid I don't know. Do you mean combining the output of two "5hp motors" to get 10hp worth of current? If so, that's easy: After your "small" RPC starts the first motor, those two motors now effectively form a larger unit. I've never done it, but I've heard of shops where, for example, there's a 7.5hp rpc. It has both a 5 hp and 10 hp motor plugged into it. With the RPC running you first start the 5 hp motor, and with those two running, you can now start the 10hp motor. Every motor you add, adds to the overall capacity of the system. HOWEVER: All the current of the entire system still has to flow through the single phase supply to the RPC. So if you intend to do that, you have to size up your conductors and contactors in the RPC to handle the full load. So in my example, I only have a 7.5hp pony motor in the RPC, but I'm going to wire it as though it's at least a 20hp pony motor, to handle the current needs of all three motors. BEFORE YOU TRY THIS you should confirm that I'm correct about it. It's only what I've heard, I'm not at all certain that this is a safe thing to do.
When you're weight testing , ( unless you're only checking breakout ) , you need to lift to total height because of the change in geometry in the lift cylinders ... Overall build looks good ...
Very very informative
Olá amigo! Gostaria de agradecer a você por essa ideia maravilhosa! Eu tenho um torno igual ao seu! E mandei fazer as engrenagens de 19 e 34 dentes! Ficou top! Mas, qual engrenagem é a original do torno que usa para usar no torno mecânico? Desde já agradeço!
From the factory, my lathe had a 24 tooth stud gear.
@@TheBuildist thank you…!
Great advice!! Thank you 🙏
Thank You 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
For this explanation I think you have you can have a loop. A generator that can run itself.
I have experienced the same, but I never bother myself if I cannot finish it, I'm thinking of going to a machine shop to get things done. Your wonderful explanation and idea are making me so dammed; I throw my hole cutter away. Thank you anyway, I will try.
I've been doing these except I've been putting flex heads on the breaker bars. I Put a die hard flex head on the Pittsburgh Ratcheting breaker bar handle, put a Pittsburgh low profile flex head on a vintage craftsman 24-inch breaker bar (love the chrome craftsman breaker bar handles) but I can't find a head to fit this one in your video without having to grind some down. I may just have to. Awesome vid.
I have a question about your diagram at the 9 second mark. I'm wondering if the Countdown DPDT Relay is drawn correctly in the deactivated position or if I'm just misunderstanding it. It looks like when the timer comes on (as drawn) that the start capacitors would be disconnected instead of connected. My other question is, what's the benefit of using 24VDC instead of just straight 120V to power a countdown relay and solid state relay?
I'm not certain that I drew it correctly. But if you follow the link to the plans (in the description) you'll find on the righthand side a detailed step through of the start sequence. The step through is accurate as to what I built. I've since been convinced that a single on/off button was a mistake. That it should have a master "on/off" switch and a separate momentary push button to initiate the start sequence. It's safer in the long run. I'm not losing sleep over this one, but the other config is superior. Lastly, no, the 24v dc is not required. It happened that I had spare 24v control devices, so I converted to that in order to utilize them and be able to make use of the solid state relay. It could all conceivably be 240 or 120ac relays, but I don't know if you'll find ac-triggered solid state relays. And I wasn't confident that the response timing for the start capacitor was going to be precise enough using a mechanical relay. Not saying it can't work, but I had more confidence in the solid state route.
This was an excellent theoretical overview of how motors, 3 phase and, 1 phase and rotary phase converters work. Thank you.
Why not just bore the pin bosses off center?
Excellent description, explanation, and work process!!!!
Great tutorial. I used one of there when building my kitchen, worked beautifully on mdf and left a way cleaner hole than any hole saw I've used. I pre drilled the pilot hole through the mdf and well into a sacrificial piece of wood under it to keep it stable while using a battery operated drill. I regret not filming my first test that I did on a piece of cardboard that ended up getting torn into modern art and flung across the room.
Is this just an add for liquid wrench
AMONG many other things... I do reveal my fondness for the ONE, the ORIGINAL, THE LIQUID WRENCH. 🤣
Very well executed storage solution. I mean the true purpose of storage is to get overview and thusly shortening the time needed in searching for what you need and you accomplished both with this one. You got yourself a new subscriber in me.
Phenomenal!
Keep it coming! Love it.
I know this is a bit old but dang! What a nice video to watch. Well done.
Fantastic!!!! This will save me many bucks.
Great build series. Thank you
Muy buena restauración.
What do you call that motor?
Why use it upside down? add a piece of round stock to bottom sooooo much easier
Great build.
bravo thank you sir.the thing no one says
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very interesting.
very good video for the "non fabulously rich" like me
Curious, What type of solid state relay did you use? Most I've seen have been for resistive loads only, not for inductive or capacitive loads.
It's been too long ago, I don't recall. It's possible that I didn't know that and used the wrong thing? But it worked fine. Perhaps because its use is so brief, well less than 1 second, only a couple times a day at most.
@TheBuildist Thank you for the reply. Yes I can see that what you used worked really well. Maybe I'm over thinking it. I was thinking of using a solid state relay instead of a contactor to eliminate the possibility of it sticking on. I've already built a phase converter years ago and it's always been super reliable, however I recently found a larger delta wound motor in a scrap dumpster, and it runs and decided to build a bigger, better one.
Very smart
Thank you
TCT = 'tungsten carbide tipped'.
This is Excellent! - I have been searching a long time for a basic understanding of windings and phase induction. I’m trying to teach myself how to re-wind a motor, but there is nothing in English on CZcams. Your excellent video is helping me understand and I Thank You 🙏
Great perseverance!! Great outcome!! And im completely positive that the Satisfaction you must of felt when it was finally done initially must have been great! And this particular series you put out made me a subscriber as i too hav something similar in the very beginning stages too! I recently aquired whats called a Toro sand pro 5040,its a 3 wheel hydraulic driven tractor that was originally put out by Toro for sand traps at golf course's with both front and rear hydraulic attachment options, basically looks like a 80's era honda 3 wheeler but looks like it was built by the same company that builds the armored presidential limo,"the beast"!!! Im talking alot of areas where 1/2" plate was used,buy its a perfect platform for a yard tractor/3 wheeled skid steer! Anyways ,very good job sir!
Great tip if only there wasn’t copper shielding under the silicone steel sheets we holesaw through this would work wonders
Put a water and antifreeze mixture in the tires
Good point. They're currently full to the top with rv antifreeze
Thank you for taking the time and effort to make this VERY informative video. It is a big help to us DIY with limited electrical knowledge!
That is amazing! Great explanation and demonstration. I'm gonna buy a cheap bi-metal hole saw today. I only need to make a 1" hole in 1/4 plate. Thank you for sharing this!
It’s missing a loader because it’s a lawn tractor 😅
I'm curious if you know if there's a way to capture rpm and trigger a dry contact at a given speed.
mechanically, you could build an inertial flywheel that uses centrifugal force to trigger something once it's up to speed. That's how many ac motors kick out their start capacitor once they're up and running. But it would be very hard to fine tune it. Electronically, you can use a hall effect sensor, feed its output to an arduino, and have the arduino trigger a transistor at a pre-defined rpm. That would be extremely accurate.
@@TheBuildist Thanks for responding so quickly. To give you a better idea what I'm trying to accomplish, I want to energize a pneumatic solenoid at a specific mph using the rpm at the wheel on my motorcycle.
my best guess is still the arduino approach. In a weatherproof case, with a 12v power supply, with the transistor firing the solenoid.
Can I get this work on a 60hp Idler motor?
In theory, yes. Practically speaking, probably not. The principles are valid up to any size, but I suspect the current needs of a 60hp motor may be beyond what a standard residential electrical service can supply. And the high capacity devices (contactors, capacitors, etc) will be extremely expensive. So realistically, I doubt it.
@@TheBuildist the 60hp motor uses 148A at 208V. And is not for a residential use. But I get the expenses of it
learn something everyday! Thank You Sir! Thats even more handy than a pocket on a tee shirt!
I have a 30 HP donor motor ( Brand New ). I would like to use it for a RPC. I contacted a capacitor company looking for a 2100 MFD ( 70 / HP ) capacitor. His input was that that was awfully high for a motor starter. Any advice???? TIA
I'm no expert, I went by what I read on the web. I will say that for my 20hp motor, the 1200mf I bought was smaller than the rule of thumb I was following ("70 to 100mfd per HP"). And it worked just fine. So I'd guess you don't have to have a full 2100mfd? Having said that, this is not a typical starting capacitor. "normal" starting capacitors are for single phase motors, and single phase motors, being "in sync" with their current supply, only need a "gentle" nudge to initiate enough rotation to come online. In our case, we have a 33% mismatch between our supply and our motor, So our motor needs a much more substantial kick to get enough rpm to come online. So if your capacitor supplier is thinking "typical" start capacitor, then this one seems too big. If it were me, and again, I am by no means an expert, If I could easily/cheaply get ahold of anything bigger than about 1600mfd, I'd be inclined to give it a try. It'll either spin up or not. As long as it's only hooked up for a few seconds, it's not going to hurt anything to try.
Can the high pressure inlet be drilled into the casting straight through the bottom? For those with a benchtop drill press/hand drill only, would be easier than two holes lined up. Guess it's a question of whether there's enough meat on the base?
I think it would be risky. The base isn't super thick, but that's mitigated by the fact that the jack force presses against the flat base. If you drill into it you're causing two problems: first that this large flat area now has a weak spot in the middle of it, secondly that with this fitting screwed in, the jack can no longer sit flat on the base. So I wouldn't say it CAN'T be done, but you'd have to take extra measures to reinforce the weak area. I think it's probably easier overall to drill the two holes.
can i run a big cnc router with this RPC?
If the router were 3 phase, then yes, you'd need something like this.
question i have the same setup when i load it voltage drops from 255 to 230 is that ok
Nice display of patience by taking your time and making everything just so. A job well done..
Thank you!
Pretty fantastic!