Remaking a Small Antique Coat to Fit Me!
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 2. 01. 2021
- Often original garments and patterns aren't our perfect size. So how do we drastically adjust the measurements to fit? There are many different options, but for this coat we're testing out a less typical method. By using a tailors drafting manual of the era, we can see what a generic coat fit should be for the correct body measurements. From there, it's just merging the two patterns and proportionally grading up the details!
Thankfully, this coat pattern is fairly simple (even if it is covered in decorative stitching!). However, I hope to try this method again with more complex antique garments in the near future. Drafting manuals can seem intimidating, but they offer a valuable resource to understand how clothing ideally fit EVERY body, not just the "standard" body shape.
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đŒ 1908 Fashion Plate: gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt...
đŒ 1907 Motor Coat: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1900s_i...
đŒ Childrens Coats: geheugen.delpher.nl/nl/geheug...
1908 Drafting Manual: archive.org/details/standardw...
UNL Collections: mediacommons.unl.edu/luna/ser...
Wool Broadcloth: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
Satin Lining: www.renaissancefabrics.net/pr...
Interfacings: www.etsy.com/shop/BiasBespoke
Witchy Vintage: witchyvintage.com/
đ¶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com) - Jak na to + styl
Proof that good tailoring and beautiful finishings and fabric never go out of style. This coat is so timeless and doesn't scream "I'm a 115 year old silhouette!"
I love the hidden large pockets inside the small pocket, and I could imagine that that would start a lot of funny conversations, like pulling a huge phone from a teeny tiny pocket
I love that too!
Or snacks!
Dr Whoâs Police Pockets!
Very Mary Poppins!
A baguette. Please pull out a baguette.
In my opinion, there are few sounds as satisfying as the hearty "snip, snip" of tight, sharp sewing shears.
Or the crisp rustling of silk! đ
Between those sleeve heads and the pockets within pockets, this coat is a feat of engineering. Thanks for sharing with us
Wow Tardis Pockets bigger on the inside than on the outside. A great combination sewing pockets and Dr Who.
Welcome back to Sewing Masterpiece Theatre, this time for coats, and I am here for it!
It's gorgeous! I absolutely love how dedicated you are to including every single detail, no matter how small or time consuming they are.
The sleeves, the lapels, the hidden pockets within pockets and above all all the ASMR my little sewing heart needs!
SNEAKY POCKETS!!! I LOVE how this was very "Well, I needed to do X -- And I did." The moment this started, there was a tension -- and expectation, if you will, of "Oooh, crap, I know what's coming." But it didn't come. Very many of us have PTSD (Pattern Taking Stress Disorder) from having done this kind of thing, but you were very calm. Nothing was rushed, it was all ASMR, all very calm. Nicole Rudolph's Calm Sewing Training Course. I don't know what was more mesmerizing: the calm with which you did this, the patience and care taken in every stitch and fold, or the way these big assed shears come out and skillfully cut a smooth curve. These are sewing patience goals! BRAVO! Mme. Rudolph, Bravo.
I honestly hope to achieve your level of sewing skills one day!! I honestly learn so much by just seeing how you work when making something!!! It looks beautiful! Plus the ASMR of you working the fabric, hand sewing it and the machine stitching is just ~ chefâs kiss ~
This is exactly the comment I was going to make! Especially regarding ASMR. This video was medicine to my very tired strained self. I could feel my nerves and muscles relaxing as I watched. Thank you!!!
I love reverse engineering! It turned out sooo beautiful. All that top stitching was worth it. And that tid bit about the shoulder steaming/shaping was a total light bulb moment.
Have a great day thanks as always for sharing.
btw: I had a major epiphany about your medieval split sole shoe. I left you a message there, I hope you saw it.
Pockets of holding! Sorry, my nerd was showing. Good gracious, your stitching is so beautiful! The whole coat is gorgeous. I love the big pockets disguised as little pockets...I could have so much fun with that! Happy New Year, Nicole!
Oooh, I'm tempted to make this a thing in my next game! If only for wish fulfillment.
@@loraleitourtillottwiehr2473 D&D 3.5 Magic Item Compendium: Belt of Hidden Pouches.
@@Sleepingvampires awesome, thanks for the tip!
The robin egg blue and pale gold lining combination is exquisite and that top stitching is lifeđ
Never tire of watching you make coatsâŠespecially those with rows and rows of topstitching. Watching you is my therapy!!
Your craft and dedication are unmatched. The voice, the hand gestures. Itâs a pleasure watch your videos
I echo everyone else's comments about how lovely this whole video is. I also appreciate the final reveal both in historical get up AND in a modern context and showing how well it really works for both! đđđ
I love your attention to detail not only with your sewing projects, but in your editing. The music fits perfectly. I especially loved the song @14:45.
The sound of silk being cut, pinned, and stitched is just so lucious!
Oh my goodness just so gorgeous. One day I will make a coat. I need to lv up some of my skills tho like top stitching so it doesn't look like I was drunk when I did it lolz. But OMG just beautiful work!
I could watch you sew all day.
That was so much more ASMR then I expected and it was exactly what I needed apparently!
NIcole - really enjoyable video (and amazing skills demonstrated). What I love about your channel is that you have a beautifully personal and distinctive esthetic, and your projects are both historically researched and practical in terms of bringing them forward for contemporary wear (history-bounding if you want to call it that/vintage chic would be another way of phrasing it). Also love the breadth of your interests--from medieval to Edwardian!
The finesse and dexterity which you demostrate with the fabric is mesmerizing and soothing. Beautiful work.
As beautifully as the outside of the coat looks, I am 100% here for the inside! It may just be me living vicariously through others who can whip and fell nicely, all while looking like swans on a lakeđ The engineering aspect is really cool toođ
I mean it in the best way possible - Nicole makes me fall asleep. Her Videos are basically my type of ASMR. Love her for that â€ïž
Beautiful idea for pockets to have pockets!
I love that you prioritize (and use!) pockets like I do. It's so much harder to lose the things you need if you've got them in your coat or other pockets that are attached to you.
As beautiful as your new/old coat is, your scissors truly make me want to cry. They are so beautiful, and sharp, and click so nicely and seem to fit your hand despite their weight x_x. Tools of the trade deserve so much love!
As a quilter who's starting to make my own style and natural fiber garments, I love the miles of top stitching in this, because yes garment are time consuming, but 300 hour project on a machine with no hand stitching is also a lot đ, but thank you and Ms Banner for teaching us how to proceed properly â€
Was a lot of fun to watch. My favorite part is topstitching. I did a cossack coat 12 years ago with rows of topstitching just for the fun of it. Am going to do it with my upcoming cossack coat project. Its fun to do it around necklines, collars and cuffs.
I salute your depth of knowledge as well as your outstanding tailoring skills. Also, how it's videoed really shows the details of fine sewing. Seeing how you manipulate the fabric was helpful to me, a long time low skilled home sewer. I love your sensibility about real fabrics and your love of garments from the past. Thank you for sharing all this.
I love the time and care you took to smooth out the fabric to take slow carefull stitching and to cut slowly with precision. You are a seamstress. A work of art beautiful
Your coat is lovely. I liked it best on you when you wore it with your own hair and clothes history bounding style. You made the entire process, from drafting, fitting, and piecing, look so easy, when it was not. You've made a beautiful coat. I hope you wear it often!
This project blows my mind and I appreciate your skill and patience. Just a note if you do this again - you can get cotton batting through an upholsterer.
I learn so much from you when you're simply chatting. Thank you.
I LOVE the color of that coat. It's so unbelievably pretty. And I swear, that shaping you did on the sleeves? Witchcraft. Another fabulous video. I really look forward to your posts!
So beautiful how you not only extend the size to fit you, but your manipulation of the fabric in and around the bends and curves of the garment is quite stunning to watch. You must have been in sensory overload when making this coat! Thank you very much for sharing your meticulous process and work with us. đ
The precision of your sewing is stunning
The quality of your research, craft, and video production continues to baffle me. Thank you for gracing us yet again with another beautiful project âŁïž
Beautiful! That lining was a real jigsaw puzzle.
Not pictured- the full five minutes of footage I have of me staring at the vent lining with pure terror.
This coat is sooo beautiful!! Thank you for bringing us along. I love the color you chose!
Youâre very relaxing to watch sewing by hand.
I just watched this for the 4th or 5th time and realized how useful it is. I have to do many changes to every pattern I work with for various reasons, but for historical things it would be very useful to have historical slopers, just like we have modern pattern slopers.
Beautiful coat, loved watching the detective work and construction. Your videos are so beautifully shot, Nicole. And I echo everyone else appreciating the ASMR.
I love top stitching! Such a simple way to decorate yet adds strength as well as lovely detail. Iâm in awe of your skills with drafting. Iâd like to be able to do that ... but then I remember Iâm a bit lazy so itâs probably never gonna happen đ
It is absolutely lovely. May you wear it in good health.
That is a gorgeous coat. I love the color and the detail of the stitching so precise
Beautiful! I love watching you sew and make shoes, especially recreating vintage items. And the way you record and edit the videos is perfect.
Well done! The tailoring is đ€© amazing, as well as the execution of the stitchwork etc. I love the detective work you performed to gather the knowledge about the pattern. A good wool is a such a joy to work with â€ïž đ€© đđ»
So beautiful!! The details are just.. ugh. It's awesome of you to share your process on projects like this, just awesome!
The top stitching is just beautiful, you do incredible work! Just lovely!
Beautiful, good job. Thanks for sharing your journey and your personal observations along the way. It must be so satisfying to make a coat, that fits as you want it to fit as well as in the style that really âfloats your boatâ. I can totally relate to the pocket discussion and solution - gotta love a practical pocket OMG I love me a gooooood pocket. Thanks again and beautiful editing and shots đđż
Listened to a few of your vids at work - even your process is just nice to listen to. I don't get "ASMR tingles" and don't go looking for ASMR stuff - but this was lovely to have on in the background when you were just sewing. So soothing.
I love how your videos are often one part history, one part practical construction discussion, and one part ASMR. Soooooo relaxing.
That pocket is genius! I love how you found such a practical solution without visually changing anything on the coat.
Wow, that was some impressive work! I love all the detailing on this coat, and seems perfect for winter, and can accommodate a large variety of outfits. Thank you for showing that to us.
So Beautiful. I love your Bernina too. You did such a beautiful job on making this coat for yourself. I really like the added personal touches you did, like when you added a secret pocket to your little pocket behind it. Love that. And your unique color scheme of using a grey-light blueish color with a gold - like color of fabric. It works well. Great job.
I just love the top stitching it brings the coat together, great construction â€ïžâ€ïžâ€ïž
Wow! Absolutely stunning!
I love love LOVE the stitch details. Stunning
So beautiful!! Just, wow!!!
It's gorgeous and those sleeves look like a dream. The amount of work that went into this... Enjoy looking fabulous every time you wear it! đ
The amount of work!!!! Superb!
This may come off weird, but I just want to say I enjoy your videos so much because you have such a nice voice. I donât know if itâs my sound sensitivity, but I get a little đŹ in other CZcams costumers when they speed talk. Your voice and tone is enjoyable and soothing. Excellent video though, I donât think I could ever sew that many stitches parallel to each other without swearing and giving up on row two.
Hi Nicole, you did an amazing job. I'm curious, is there anything you wish you had done differently, not process wise, I'm mostly referring to the upsizing or fit of the final product?
I would probably put the top button further down (I'd have to lengthen the decorative stitching and everything on the lapel). This would make it less "correct", but I would prefer it for more modern usage! The shoulders and sleeves fit really well. I can easily move and function, so I haven't found anything to change there yet.
@@NicoleRudolph Thanks for your reply Nicole, I'm enjoying all your videos. You have such an advanced level of technical skills which is very enjoyable to watch especially since I studied fashion design. I feel my sewing skills are good, but yours are just mesmerizing especially with tailored garments like jackets and coats (which is a completely different skills set from regular sewing or design). Thanks for sharing your vids, knowledge and tips with us.
She's lovely. That color is so delightful and the I do appreciate allllllll the top stitching. The pocket improvements were very awesome.
Thank you for explaining the wadding!! I've heard/seen it referenced but never really understood how that was done.
It reminds me of a style that was popular during my first few years of high school but 1000% nicer.
It looks incredible đ€©
Such beautiful work. Lovely result.
A stunning coat. That top stitching really makes a superb garment exquisite *chefs kiss*
What a beautiful coat. I love the colours of the fabrics.
Top stitching magic! Thank you for such a great video and the excellent top stitching.
Itâs beautiful!!! The pockets are awesome!!! All of the top stitching is.... wow!!!
Wow! This is so wonderful!
Absolutely beautiful in every way. I love the color of the wool. Amazing work!
I love the color you chose - itâs interesting, because it reads warm and cool to me
Wow, that is a gorgeous coat...especially in those colors. I always think that there is something quite appealing in the combination of pastels with ivory.
Beautiful work ,love the coat ,!! Well worth all the effort , thankyou for sharing đ
I am in love with these pockets
You did an amazing job of drafting & constructing that gorgeous coat. đđœââïž
Wow, your coat is truly stunning. What fabulous work, I love it. Thank you for showing this.
my god i love that combination patch and welt pocket! totally going to use that in a future project x
You are so incredibly skilled. This is beautiful.
Lovely recreation! The color of the wool is dreamy. Beautiful attention to detail.
All that beautiful detailing has inspired me. Gorgeous work Nicole. Enjoyed every minute watching you put this together.
The topstitching on this jacket is delicious! I love how you talked us through your pattern alteration research and process, it was super helpful!
beautiful job, the shade of blue is my favorite on myself and it looks so nice
on you too!
Wowzers!!! StunningâŁ
Beautiful work as always. Reminds me of a 1980s-does-Victorian coat in the same color that my grandmother wore when i was a little kid.
Wow! This is soooo beautiful đđ„ł. Enjoy wearing this wonderful coat đ
It is absolutely mesmerising to watch a pro at work đ
I loved watching this! The whole process was so fascinating and the finished product is gorgeous!!
This was fascinating! Could never do this, but the way you explained it, I actually understood what you were talking about. A beautiful coat!
Simply breathtaking!!!
Thank you for sharing your journey in such a esthetic and beautiful way!!!
Havenât tailored a coat in forever. I feel very inspired! Bravo!
What a beautiful job, you are a very talented young lady. Love the coat. Cheers Tricia.
What beautiful craftmanship you always show. Fascinating to watch and very inspiring. A joy.
I am stunned and the garment is stunning. Thank you
That turned out looking like one smart coat. And good solution with those pockets. :}
This was the most soothing video, just beautiful sewing and beautiful music and your wonderful explanations.