Love this idea but buddy, those small strips can split. I saw a real bad accident, and it was .. real bad. You've got talent, *please* be safer with your hands. Also, in a video, it's our responsibility to show other people how to be safe, so they don't try something and get hurt. Keep up the great work, just also please keep your hands.
Agreed with this one! Especially at the moments you do a cut where the blade appears not to go through. You are assuming that it won’t go trough but if it did your hand would be severely cut. For this application you should always use a push-block
@@erwin757 exactly. And preferably not just a "chicken foot" one at the end, its got to hold the board down from the top as its moving through. Real easy to make and (very nearly) ensures no kickback.
@@christophercharles9645 This answer is exactly why even experienced woodworkers get hurt... It is not that I am saying he is not a good saw operator, but I am saying that in the event he made a calculation error or he had set the depth wrong of the saw it would have hurt a lot. Also when you set the depth at these small sizes you don't have any margin of error and that's way you have to use safety gear. What would have happened if one of the pieces were not at the same size as the first piece? Right...
@@christophercharles9645 on whole I agree. I've just seen a multiple decades level professional get tore up bad .. it's not pretty, and can happen to the best of us. To each their own, but imho, better a little more time and a lot more fingers.
Assuming just the purchase of a 2x2 oak hardwood it costs $1.75 a foot in my area. Aluminum costs about $3.50 a foot by amazon. It's about half as much. So it comes down to does the wood one fit your need, with how much you use it will you need to replace it, and how much is your time worth. Also as "Jay Naik" said in another comment using a keyhole router bit is faster, safer, and less work. You can also make it part of your jigs meaning your just removing what you don't need, not removing wood to fill with different wood. If the routed t track breaks later you can route the slot bigger and put in a new wood or aluminum one later.
This method is more customizable. I have done this before with great results. This method was slightly better than how I did it. I glued 2 narrow strips on each side which was harder and didn't come out perfect! Great video! I used my track for an led lamp. Came out pretty good.
Great video mate. I loved the idea and will be using that in my shop in future. What wood did you use for the t-track? I came up real nice after you waxed it. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Bad idea. The gluing area on the top of the U channel is very small. Better to not make T-track but to install the equivalence of T-track onto a board, and only when the functionality of T-track is necessary (often is not). Do a very wide dado onto the board the and then plan to glue two strips at least 1/2 inch flush with the board, leaving a gap open. If the gap is 1/4, then the dado on the board should be 1 and 1/4 wide. A second narrower but deeper dado is made. The depth of the second dado is what is needed to accommodate the head of the bolt used later, plus the thickness of the 1/2 inch strips. Think whether T-track functionality is necessary. Often the clamp or hold-down itself has reach that can be 4-5 inches (2-2.5 inches swing). A series of spot anchor points like T-nuts or threaded inserts can work . Often continuous anchor possibility is not necessary. Also don't put your fingers against the blade. Dangerous. Always use a push stick of enough length. The wood can shatter at any moment, especially a thin strip. Some people take risks that I can't even fathom.
Unfortuately, unless you are a seasoned woodworker; a newcomer to woodworking would not have a clue what you are doing.. An explaination as you were working would have3 been great.
great project. proof that you can get close to industrially manufactured products with little effort and craftsmanship.
Terimakasih banyak atas informasinya gan salam sukses selalu dari mesuji
Great piece of work.Your fingers Sir.
Keren bang track barunya.
Salam Woodworking pemula bang
rapih buatan nya pak
Love this idea but buddy, those small strips can split. I saw a real bad accident, and it was .. real bad. You've got talent, *please* be safer with your hands.
Also, in a video, it's our responsibility to show other people how to be safe, so they don't try something and get hurt.
Keep up the great work, just also please keep your hands.
Agreed with this one! Especially at the moments you do a cut where the blade appears not to go through. You are assuming that it won’t go trough but if it did your hand would be severely cut. For this application you should always use a push-block
@@erwin757 exactly. And preferably not just a "chicken foot" one at the end, its got to hold the board down from the top as its moving through. Real easy to make and (very nearly) ensures no kickback.
He's using push sticks and seems to know his way around a table saw. I think he'll be okay!
@@christophercharles9645 This answer is exactly why even experienced woodworkers get hurt... It is not that I am saying he is not a good saw operator, but I am saying that in the event he made a calculation error or he had set the depth wrong of the saw it would have hurt a lot. Also when you set the depth at these small sizes you don't have any margin of error and that's way you have to use safety gear. What would have happened if one of the pieces were not at the same size as the first piece? Right...
@@christophercharles9645 on whole I agree. I've just seen a multiple decades level professional get tore up bad .. it's not pretty, and can happen to the best of us. To each their own, but imho, better a little more time and a lot more fingers.
Beautiful table saw
_great job_
Assuming just the purchase of a 2x2 oak hardwood it costs $1.75 a foot in my area. Aluminum costs about $3.50 a foot by amazon. It's about half as much. So it comes down to does the wood one fit your need, with how much you use it will you need to replace it, and how much is your time worth.
Also as "Jay Naik" said in another comment using a keyhole router bit is faster, safer, and less work. You can also make it part of your jigs meaning your just removing what you don't need, not removing wood to fill with different wood. If the routed t track breaks later you can route the slot bigger and put in a new wood or aluminum one later.
Merci beaucoup pour la vidéo
Since you have a router, buy a low cost keyhole router bit and rout a t-track; safer, easier, a whole lot less work and precise.
This method is more customizable. I have done this before with great results. This method was slightly better than how I did it. I glued 2 narrow strips on each side which was harder and didn't come out perfect! Great video! I used my track for an led lamp. Came out pretty good.
Good job, for a low budget.
Hi my friend, good job
Great video mate. I loved the idea and will be using that in my shop in future. What wood did you use for the t-track? I came up real nice after you waxed it. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
You need make some push sticks to use
Too dangerous. A poor standard of tuition. Don’t EVER show people running your hands across the blade. Shame on you.
Bad idea. The gluing area on the top of the U channel is very small.
Better to not make T-track but to install the equivalence of T-track onto a board, and only when the functionality of T-track is necessary (often is not). Do a very wide dado onto the board the and then plan to glue two strips at least 1/2 inch flush with the board, leaving a gap open. If the gap is 1/4, then the dado on the board should be 1 and 1/4 wide. A second narrower but deeper dado is made. The depth of the second dado is what is needed to accommodate the head of the bolt used later, plus the thickness of the 1/2 inch strips.
Think whether T-track functionality is necessary. Often the clamp or hold-down itself has reach that can be 4-5 inches (2-2.5 inches swing). A series of spot anchor points like T-nuts or threaded inserts can work . Often continuous anchor possibility is not necessary.
Also don't put your fingers against the blade. Dangerous. Always use a push stick of enough length. The wood can shatter at any moment, especially a thin strip. Some people take risks that I can't even fathom.
Thanks for the clear breakdown of the t-track board, that's a great idea and has me thinking .. 🤔
Unfortuately, unless you are a seasoned woodworker; a newcomer to woodworking would not have a clue what you are doing.. An explaination as you were working would have3 been great.
This clown has no respect for his fingers