Make your own T-Tracks and T-Slots!

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  • čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
  • Includes tips for sharpening router bits, and setting router table fence distance. Why spend money on buying t-tracks, when you can cut your own t-slots, or make your own t-tracks, using specialized router bits? I demo a $14 bit, and a $35 bit. Believe it or not, I like the cheaper one better!
    Index:
    Start: 00:00
    Yonico Bit: 00:49
    Rockler Bit: 02:59
    Making T-Tracks: 04:01
    T-Slot Bits Recap: 07:04
    Closing: 08:11
    Other Relevant Videos:
    Installing T-Tracks, for Newbies: • Installing T-Tracks, f...
    Review of Powertec T-Tracks: • Review of Powertec T-T...
    Dust Collection for Router Table Dados: • Dust Collection for Ro...
    All Products featured in my videos: www.amazon.com/shop/thenewbie...
    Products seen in this video:
    NOTE: The Yonico bit linked here probably isn't the one shown in the video, so double-check the specs before you buy it: Router Bit (T-Slot) - Yonico: amzn.to/2KjREhN
    Router Bit (T-Slot) - Rockler: amzn.to/2NWBvSm
    Router Bit and Saw Blade Cleaning Kit - Rockler: amzn.to/2LTwCLX
    Sharpening Hone (Double-Sided): amzn.to/2LU0ibz
    Sharpening Hone (Single-Sided): www.homedepot.com/p/DMT-Singl...
    Kreg Router Table Setup Bars: amzn.to/2LgFniP
    Featherboards: amzn.to/2Aw1ygD
    Digital Height Gauge - Wixey: amzn.to/2LMbgRh
    Router Bit (1/4" Shank) - 1/4" x 3/4" - Freud: amzn.to/2M9F06G
    Router Bit (1/4" Shank) - 3/8" x 7/8" - Freud: amzn.to/2AxwYmV
    Flip Stop - 2 1/4" - Rockler: amzn.to/2JrkAnD
    Router Plate (Phenolic) - Rockler: amzn.to/2D4q1q9
    Xtreme Xtension Router Collet Extension: amzn.to/2AxfM0H
    Push Block - Bench Dog: amzn.to/2Fv6AJ2
    Micro Jig Grr-Ripper: amzn.to/2CELfvw
    Caliper (Digital): amzn.to/2CasjDX
    SawStop JobSite Table Saw - Amazon: amzn.to/2HkawNh
  • Jak na to + styl

Komentáře • 433

  • @Lancelot_Jago
    @Lancelot_Jago Před 5 lety +11

    Thanks for such a comprehensive explanation. Your craftwork looks exemplary and I enjoy your presentation. Thanks again.

  • @Jay2525Jay
    @Jay2525Jay Před 5 lety +31

    Thank you for sharing your skills with us. The use of clamps to return the fence to the original position is brilliant. Thank you.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +4

      Thanks! I always try to throw in different tips, and I'm glad that one helped. Using clamps like that really does make it simpler. 😄

  • @stevebeck7333
    @stevebeck7333 Před 4 lety

    A very timely video for me. I watched several on this topic and yours was by far the best.

  • @brent1525
    @brent1525 Před 3 lety +1

    I've been planning to make my own t track, and your explanation and experiences with it are very helpful. Thank you

  • @PMichaels
    @PMichaels Před 5 lety +5

    Another great video, Dan! I love your experimentation, education, and humor. I never thought of using wooden t-tracks, but I like this. 👍🏼

  • @chipatchison5971
    @chipatchison5971 Před 5 lety +8

    Yes, you are indeed an engineer. THANKS! Your engineering background makes your top down (completed project shown 1st) presentation great! Plus I like the long list of links you post for parts. Keep it up! We need more engineers making woodworking videos. I myself got my BSEE from NCSU in '77. Yes that far back :)

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +7

      Thanks for the great comment! Technically, I'm a software engineer, but it's the same mindset. I got my first programming job in 1979, so I suspect we're close in age. The links are actually "affiliate" links, which means I earn a small amount on each purchase (at no extra expense to you), so being thorough is as much for my benefit as yours. 😛 And yes, I prefer to show everything first. I realize it means I'll get some people who drop out early, but I hate it when videos make me wait to the end to see what the video is really about. I try to make a video I would want to watch. For better or worse! 😂 Thanks again.

    • @RADCOMJ1
      @RADCOMJ1 Před 4 lety +1

      laughing at "programming", they call themselves developers nowadays don't they. That explains why you are very thorough in your tutorials...each instruction a line of code :-) thanks for all your efforts Dan.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 4 lety +3

      @@RADCOMJ1 Yeah, I'm very logically-minded. It's one of the reasons it takes me too long to make videos. Everything has to add up. 😄

  • @ronlee9516
    @ronlee9516 Před 4 lety +1

    Very well presented, thank you for taking the time to make this video.

  • @myfaithcreativebandung4700

    Amazing, your workshop is very clean. Good job

  • @jasonrobinson9524
    @jasonrobinson9524 Před 5 lety +2

    Great video! Very informative and well presented. Thanks!

  • @slvice14
    @slvice14 Před 3 lety

    This is Genius! I'm doing that to my drill press!! Thanks so much for posting this!

  • @papadingo
    @papadingo Před 3 lety

    Love your sense of humour. " Just kidding. I love fire" chuckled

  • @stormman8393
    @stormman8393 Před 2 měsíci

    I'm a subscriber. A truly brilliant video leaving some good tips as well as the router bit demo

  • @puzzlering1
    @puzzlering1 Před 3 lety

    Thank you for a very well explained and informative video, great tips and presentation
    Take care
    Sam

  • @donf3739
    @donf3739 Před 3 lety

    Great edutainment! Love your wit as well as your wisdom. Liked and subscribed.

  • @Dumbc0mment
    @Dumbc0mment Před 5 lety

    Very informative & passionating video sir. Thanks you

  • @danlynch1154
    @danlynch1154 Před 4 lety

    Thanks, very clear and concise. Well done!

  • @GrantOakes
    @GrantOakes Před rokem

    Thanks! I just ordered my Yonico T track router bit on Amazon just now!

  • @yinn2yang
    @yinn2yang Před 5 lety

    nice explanation simple and informative thanks

  • @Paradigm816
    @Paradigm816 Před 4 lety

    What an EXCELLENT video!

  • @DucNguyen-bd5ir
    @DucNguyen-bd5ir Před 5 lety

    Thank you. That was very informative.

  • @bricofast
    @bricofast Před 4 lety

    Great video thanks,a hug here from Portugal 🇵🇹🇵🇹🇵🇹

  • @mikeharvey6061
    @mikeharvey6061 Před 5 lety +1

    Thanks for this video. Been getting things together to do some jig and drill press table with t-track so this was very helpful.

  • @rmhutchins7
    @rmhutchins7 Před 3 lety

    Very Helpful Video.
    Thank you!

  • @insanecomicdude
    @insanecomicdude Před 2 lety

    Your channel is really fantastic.

  • @user-po5le7fz6n
    @user-po5le7fz6n Před 5 lety

    You always do a great job!

  • @Meticularius
    @Meticularius Před 3 lety

    12/1/2020 USA Grandpa Bill: I'm new here Sir, and after seeing just one of your videos I subscribed. Your speed, careful selection of material, and video prowess have made my viewing and learning experience pleasant and productive. Your voice, appearance (lower half of face), and methods of presentation make me think you are a principal of a school and have written lesson plans hidden under the boards. Thank you for being on CZcams, for the energy and effort you put into these well-timed instructional lessons. I admire your work, and I'm here to stay. (Unless you suspend me for smoking in the garage. -Bill

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 3 lety

      LOL, and thanks, Bill! And as long as you don't smoke in *my* garage, I don't mind at all. 😄 I'm a retired software engineer, and I spent a lot of time writing documentation for other developers, so this really isn't anything new for me (except for the video part). I'm thrilled you're enjoying it, and welcome aboard!

  • @chuckweddel2
    @chuckweddel2 Před 5 lety +1

    good help. thank you for the tutorial.

  • @troygagnon5914
    @troygagnon5914 Před 5 lety

    I really enjoy your videos!

  • @mykhelderian
    @mykhelderian Před 3 lety

    Excellent, as always.

  • @AJB2K3
    @AJB2K3 Před 5 lety +1

    Looks nice and subtle.

  • @josephsummers1148
    @josephsummers1148 Před 3 lety

    Great video. Great channel. Thanks for the great content.

  • @rampanttricky17
    @rampanttricky17 Před 5 lety +7

    I like the use of the clamps as a method for fence alignment.
    i also liked the way you phrased the joke ending with "...i like fire." :)

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      Thanks, Steve! I was hoping the clamp idea would be useful. And thanks for getting the joke. I was afraid nobody would get it. 😛

  • @sundeshbalraj
    @sundeshbalraj Před 3 lety

    Great humor👏🏼

  • @harryshaw4403
    @harryshaw4403 Před 4 lety

    Very interesting. Gave me a slew of ideas

  • @EduardoSouza-bd8fp
    @EduardoSouza-bd8fp Před 4 lety

    Thanks! Best explanation!

  • @kc.emerson8792
    @kc.emerson8792 Před 4 lety

    Awesome ! You bet me to it.
    Now I know it can be done. Thx

  • @azizqassim1515
    @azizqassim1515 Před 2 lety

    That was awesome.. thank you

  • @ladykenja2700
    @ladykenja2700 Před 5 lety

    - Thanx for the hints.

  • @FishmanEricRussell
    @FishmanEricRussell Před 5 lety

    Cool build!

  • @njneer
    @njneer Před 5 lety

    Thank you for making this video. I got some great ideas that will help me in my current project. I'm just in the planning stage of building a router table(on a budget, haha) and I have been trying to figure out how I was going to handle the fence and a track for a miter gauge. I also liked your setup for holding down materials on the drill press. Keep up the good work!

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +2

      Thanks! A couple of thoughts, for the budget-minded 😄:
      1) For a router table, the fence doesn't *need* t-tracks. You can just clamp the fence to the table, as long as your table has enough overhanging lip to clamp to. I've seen some CZcams videos on the subject, but honestly, a board with a cut-out for the bit is all that's absolutely necessary.
      2) As for the miter track, I have one and never use it. That doesn't mean *you'll* never use it, but you could always add one later.
      3) Lastly, in case you haven't seen it, I have a video on building a router lift: czcams.com/video/LJqPDADi8MM/video.html. And I show how you can use it as a mini router table until you can build a "real" table. 😄

    • @njneer
      @njneer Před 5 lety

      The Newbie Woodworker thanks for the tips.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      @@njneer 👍

    • @alfredomarquez9777
      @alfredomarquez9777 Před 4 lety

      @@TheNewbieWoodworker We really appreciate your honest response: "you really don't need T-Tracks for the fence... That´s good!

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 4 lety

      @@alfredomarquez9777 Thanks! I actually like having t-tracks for the fence, but I don't have a good reason. I think I just like the looks. 😄

  • @sachawinston2112
    @sachawinston2112 Před 3 lety +1

    Great ! I need to make T tracks for my router table in order to make T tracks !

  • @bruce-le-smith
    @bruce-le-smith Před 5 lety

    great video, thanks!

  • @robertkerby2581
    @robertkerby2581 Před 3 lety

    Well done!

  • @alfredomarquez9777
    @alfredomarquez9777 Před 4 lety +2

    I've seen other two videos with YONICO router bits, and all of them highly recommend that brand.

  • @jamesallen6007
    @jamesallen6007 Před 4 lety +1

    Thanks for the info. 👍

  • @markmurdocca2456
    @markmurdocca2456 Před 4 lety

    Thanks Dan, your videos are great! I like your router fence that I've seen in several of your videos, particular with the dust collection port. Do you have any videos or hints on how that fence was constructed? Pausing your videos gives me some clues, but you've got some details with knobs and dust collection that intrigue me. Thanks again.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 4 lety +1

      Thanks, Mark. I don't have a video of my router table, sorry. But you can see some of it here: czcams.com/video/CqctN68a46o/video.html. And I have a couple of SketchUp models here: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/by/TheNewbieWoodworker. And of course, my router lift is here: czcams.com/video/LJqPDADi8MM/video.html

  • @befmx31
    @befmx31 Před 5 lety

    I just watched this video right after I watched your review of the PowerTec T Track. Hmmmmmm conundrum.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      If you don't mind spending the money, I'd buy the PowerTec, as opposed to cutting my own t-track. Unless you have a good reason for cutting your own. It looks nice, and it's smooth.

  • @craigmonteforte1478
    @craigmonteforte1478 Před 3 lety

    Goo video Dan I worked at a ArchitectualWoodworking company for over 25 years and one of the owners was excellent at creating internal systems on how we built and installed everything we made one of those systems was using 1/4” inch bolts for most of our jigs and machine set ups including T tracks the benefit of that was if you stocked the 1/4X20 bolts in every size in stock and we did you were almost always guaranteed to make it work in house that cut down on costly down time and having to run around town trying to find all the hardware

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 3 lety

      Thanks, and I totally agree. In fact, I'm mentioning that idea in the video I'm working on right now. Great minds think alike, I guess. 😄

  • @mykolashatkovskyi576
    @mykolashatkovskyi576 Před rokem

    great video

  • @JoshRecollet
    @JoshRecollet Před 11 měsíci

    Nice job. Doing one myself atm.

  • @APOLOnl
    @APOLOnl Před 4 lety +5

    wow, the imperial system seems so difficult to learn when i hear other people use it. Much respect for those people that are able to work with that system.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 4 lety +3

      LOL. There's plusses and minuses. For instance, 1/8" in decimal is .125. What's half of .125? I'd have to think. But fractionally, you just double the bottom number, so half of 1/8" is 1/16". Don't get me wrong, I'd rather not deal with fractions, but like I said, there are at least a few plusses.

    • @ydnark83
      @ydnark83 Před 4 lety

      we don't need your respect. we can do fractions..

    • @APOLOnl
      @APOLOnl Před 4 lety +1

      @@ydnark83 thank you, you are a nice person

  • @WorkingModelsSchoolProjects

    Greetings from Sonu Model Project Makers Noida India your videos are very useful 👍👍👍🌼

  • @doncatchpole7370
    @doncatchpole7370 Před 3 lety

    Good stuff

  • @starpaulo747
    @starpaulo747 Před 5 lety

    Gosto muito de ver vc trabalhando sou novato e sempre aprendo um pouco muito bom.

  • @tharcisseilunga6658
    @tharcisseilunga6658 Před 2 měsíci

    Big thank

  • @wb_finewoodworking
    @wb_finewoodworking Před 5 lety

    Well done.

  • @LucianoLuckmann
    @LucianoLuckmann Před 5 lety

    Very good.

  • @chrisgriffith1573
    @chrisgriffith1573 Před 4 lety +1

    One disadvantage of using wooden t-tracks is that when locking a bolt down, you can only apply as much pressure as the wood will allow. Oak could split, and ply can separate from the other plies. This is why aluminum is better. That said, if you never need more than what the wood will support... great! But I wouldn't use it for say a drill press, or band saw jig, which might need to really stay put. Some useful info here, and I'll definitely be looking into the router bits!

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 4 lety +1

      Thanks for the comment, and I think I pretty-much agree with what you said. I will say, however, that the ones on my drill press still work, and they haven't broken yet. I can hear some cracking noises if I really tighten down the clamps, but they still work, more than a year later. Knock on wood. 😄

  • @harryshaw4998
    @harryshaw4998 Před rokem

    Your router table looks just like mine !

  • @nickdispensa9762
    @nickdispensa9762 Před 5 lety

    good job

  • @daveprice9128
    @daveprice9128 Před 5 lety

    Good Job

  • @sapelesteve
    @sapelesteve Před 5 lety +3

    Very good info & well presented. Questions: How do you think the wood t-tracks will hold up over the long haul? Are you at all worried about wood expansion/contraction? Just curious.....................Thanks again..............

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +2

      Thanks, and here's the answers: 1) No idea, and 2) yes. Oh, you want more than that? 😛 I think the wood t-tracks will hold up great in everything except for high-stress clamping situations, and since that'll be the case with my drill press table, I guess I'll find out! As for expansion/contraction, I don't have enough experience to know how much it will affect things. I *do* have red oak edging on my router table, and it's over a year old, and the edging hasn't separated or anything. But that's different than being surrounded on both sides by plywood. I guess time will tell, right?

    • @stun9771
      @stun9771 Před 5 lety

      Sapele Steve...aluminium expands and contracts too...!!...but in such small bits of wood etc I don’t expect it is that much, unless you require exceptional accuracy...?

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      Stuart - Correct. But when you combine two types of wood that have vastly different seasonal changes, then there's definitely a potential for issues. Since it's hot now, the worst that would happen is that when winter comes, the red oak will pull away from the plywood to some degree, as it shrinks. But even if it does, I doubt it'll be an issue. Then again, ask me next year. 😛

  • @bernardhvanengen5002
    @bernardhvanengen5002 Před 5 lety

    I used cheap curtain rail track with ground down carriage bolts for my drill press table.

  • @colrodrick8784
    @colrodrick8784 Před 5 lety +1

    Just thinking of getting into using my router (I bought years ago) and your video was quite timely

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +1

      Great! Make sure you watch some safety videos. I didn't do that, when I first started using my router a lot, and I made some very bad mistakes that could have had serious consequences. A little CZcams time would have prevented it. 😮

    • @colrodrick8784
      @colrodrick8784 Před 5 lety +1

      The Newbie Woodworker I certainly will Just recovering from a recent operation so doing little else these days, but hopefully not for too long Keep those videos coming. And I second the comment in a subsequent post about the clamps to retain the fence position My table saw has an awful alignment problem so I set up a new one each time I rip something- probably why I don't use it more often - that clamp idea will help me a lot.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      @@colrodrick8784 Cool! Good luck with your recovery. 🙂

  • @doc1701
    @doc1701 Před 2 lety

    I find it easier on the router if I make initial grooves using a circular saw then follow up with the t-track bit.
    Stay safe and all the best from Australia.

  • @wisloka1997
    @wisloka1997 Před měsícem

    Tip. Measure distance from the fence to the cutting blade it's more accurate ❤

  • @huskywithcoffee1568
    @huskywithcoffee1568 Před 4 lety

    What a coincidence, I also like fire!

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 4 lety

      I don't get it - help me out here? I probably just don't remember something I said in the video... 🙄

  • @stevesiefken6432
    @stevesiefken6432 Před 2 lety

    Informative video!✅
    When you talk about taking multiple passes, how can you do that with this bit? Do you mean cutting a dado first then using one of these bits? Thanks!

  • @TR4zest
    @TR4zest Před 5 lety +2

    Being in Europe, it is interesting to see you measure and work with decimals of inches, like 0.6 of an inch.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      Trust me, I'd love to be able to do metric, or at least decimal Imperial. And in fact when I use SketchUp, I'm often switching from fractional Imperial to decimal, especially since 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood is almost exactly .7", and 1/2" is almost exactly .45". Hey, now that I think about it, we could keep Imperial measurements, yet still use decimal values. As long as I can remember that .6875" is 11/16"... never mind. 😛And the problem really is that it's hard to find hardware and tools that are metric, in my neck of the woods. So, I make due.

    • @patricksimons560
      @patricksimons560 Před 3 lety

      Long live metric, most of the world use it. That's for a reason! It's easier.

  • @dj-bn1fj
    @dj-bn1fj Před 5 lety +3

    Just saw this video and I use the cheap bit with t slot bolts just move the fence 1/16 each way then use 1/4 or 5/16 T bolts 😊

  • @thebobloblawshow8832
    @thebobloblawshow8832 Před 3 lety

    Really enjoyed this. Really helpful because that t track is so expensive. Saw one table, the gut had close to $400 worth of track. Six intersections and a few straight pieces. Ridiculous.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 3 lety

      Thanks, and I'm glad it helped. By the way, Powertec makes a decent t-track that's reasonably cheap: amzn.to/2Nhuw5A. Not enough so I'm going to make that kind of table, of course. 😄

  • @PastorEbolden
    @PastorEbolden Před 3 lety

    Thanks so much for this video. I really learn a lot from you. I have a question. Do I need an adapter for the bigger bit because it won’t fit my router?

  • @rikityrik
    @rikityrik Před rokem

    Nice! I really like them metal t-tracks also. Maybe a little too much, Something about them just makes you want to build a jig even if you don’t need one. Lately I’ve been pricing the aluminum extrusion with T-slots, and 😐😭 why oh why does the good things gotta be just outta reach. Guess this is one of the excuses we build (even if it’s at double the cost, lol). Build on my friend, build on! Enjoy your videos👍

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před rokem

      Thanks, and I know what you mean about wanting to build something just to use them. 😄 Powertech makes some that are cheaper, and still good quality.

  • @bernarddouthit4647
    @bernarddouthit4647 Před 2 lety

    Dan - this is great. I'm working on a clamp/brace mechanism for some custom sliding wood doors I am making. One question though - I don't have a router table or a router. Do you buy the whole router + router table together? It looks like I can get a handheld router used for about $50. Could these tracks be made with that?

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 2 lety

      Router tables are expensive. You should watch some CZcams videos to get some idea of what's available. You could also make your own. I don't have a video of that, but I do have a video for a router lift you could build: czcams.com/video/LJqPDADi8MM/video.html.
      Yes, you could do it with a handheld router, but I wouldn't recommend trying to route it in a narrow strip of wood. If you can route it in a wider piece first, then cut it down, that would be best.
      But most importantly, if you've never used a router, please watch some safety or "how to" videos. Routers are sneaky dangerous. Just see my accident video: czcams.com/video/BJmdSgWeaas/video.html

  • @tonyharris5015
    @tonyharris5015 Před 5 lety +1

    Great minds think alike. I have both of the same bits! I'm interested in any strength differences between the aluminum and red oak tracks. Were you planning any non-scientific tests? Along that line, Wood Glue makes the joint stronger. What about a glued up t-track for those without routers and perform the same non-scientific strength test. Just some of the thoughts popping into my head from your video's. Great video once again by the way.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +2

      Thanks for the comment. That's funny about the bits. I had the Rockler one for a year or so, and decided to get the Yonico bit for this video - who knew I'd end up loving it? Since I'll be putting these t-tracks in my drill press table, they'll certainly get put to the test, strength-wise. But I'll leave someone else to do the tests. And I'm not a gluing expert by any means, so again, although it's a good idea, I'll leave it for someone else. Thanks!

    • @29ginad
      @29ginad Před 5 lety

      .

  • @MauriceCalis
    @MauriceCalis Před 5 lety

    Once again, nice detailed info on the exact topic I need to upgrade my shop.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄

    • @MauriceCalis
      @MauriceCalis Před 5 lety

      @@TheNewbieWoodworkerI have been having trouble finding the actual width of standard T-bolt heads. I don't know if it depends on the thread width, but I am looking to buy 5/16" T-bolts. If you have any that size (or close), could you measure the width of the head for me? It would really help, because I have to special order them and I'd like to order the cutter at the same time and minimize the play in the slot.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      @@MauriceCalis According to the Rockler website, 5/16" t-bolts: Foot measures 9/16" wide x 7/8" long x 7/64" thick

  • @williamhoward8319
    @williamhoward8319 Před 5 lety

    which router bits did you use i use 5/16 toilet bolts in most of my jigs some 1/4 20 mostly the larger i ordered them threw rockler with star knobs

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      The Rockler bit will work with the Rockler t-bolts that came with the star knobs. I haven't tried the toilet bolts, but I think they'll work also. If you don't want to spend the money on the Rockler bit, look for other bits that cut the same dimensions.

  • @user-sw3yd9zr4o
    @user-sw3yd9zr4o Před 5 lety

    Отличное решение. Лайк100%👍👍👍

  • @jayherde0
    @jayherde0 Před 5 lety +4

    Dan, I think you may have slipped. I could be wrong tho. @7:20, when you are talking about the Yonico bit and a 'smaller router', you suggest making multiple passes. It took me awhile to tie that back to using a straight bit before using the 'Yonico'. You made me have to think - but that's a good thing. ;-)

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +4

      Thanks for the comment. Yep, that wasn't at all clear on my part. The worst part is, I knew it wasn't clear and left it that way. Chalk it up to a case of "I'll be darned if I'm going to make one more change - I'm posting it as is. People will figure it out." Admittedly, that's never a good attitude. But I'm glad you *did* figure it out!

    • @JeffThePoustman
      @JeffThePoustman Před 5 lety

      Yeah, I was trying to figure out how you'd do multiple passes with a t-track bit. Thanks for clarifying.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +1

      Dangit! I *know* better than to leave something "wrong" when I post a video. Shame on me for not fixing it. I hope this time, I learn my lesson. 🙄

    • @sannengneng2423
      @sannengneng2423 Před 5 lety

      Jay Herde

  • @TrevorDennis100
    @TrevorDennis100 Před 4 lety

    A different kind of comment for you. Your Photoshop simulation of the t-slots installed on your drill press table is pretty good from a perspective point of view. The right side t-slot is spot on in fact, but the left not so good. If you are using a Windows PC then Lazy Nezumi Pro has a preset called Vanishing lines that lets you set rulers to existing perspective so you can match composited elements to it. It is an absolute god-send for illustrators. It's the best $35 you'll ever spend when it comes to Photoshop plug-ins. It's still doable if you have a Mac. Bert Monroy, for instance uses a Mac, and what he does is map a pair of connected paths to the existing perspective to find the vanishing point, and move the outer ends of the paths to create guides. When transforming to match perspective, always make the layer a Smart Object - this keeps the handles in the original corners for if you want to fine tune. BTW I am an Adobe Community Professional and you can find me on the Adobe forums. Good luck.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 4 lety +1

      Thanks for the information. FYI, I was using the term "photoshop" as a generic term - I actually did it in GIMP. And for videos like this, "close enough" is plenty good enough. 😄

  • @PlywoodCraft
    @PlywoodCraft Před 3 lety

    Good

  • @skipbruhn8663
    @skipbruhn8663 Před 5 lety +1

    Thank you for this very informative video. T-tracks are awesome! Can you please tell us about your video setup. Editing software, camera, lights, microphone. etcetera. Thank you so much!

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      Thanks! For software, I use Final Cut Pro X to do the editing. And I have a lot of stuff automated using Keyboard Maestro along with a lot of custom JavaScript (JXA) code. I use iZotope RX 7 Audio Editor (fantastic software) to clean up my mouth clicks, which there are a ton of, and remove some of the echo from recording in my office. I also use it to help clean up the shop background sounds, by removing the AC or fan noises, etc. And I use a plugin from Neat Software that clears up some of the graininess in the video, since I use cheap cameras. Speaking of which...
      Hardware-wise, I use a couple of Canon Powershot cameras. I have LED lights in the workshop, but I supplement them with a pair of Neewer LED fill lights. I have an articulated ceiling mounted camera dolly I built, that I use most of the time. Otherwise I use a cheap Amazon tripod. For the few times I do voice work in the shop, I have an Aspen lavalier mic, and a Zoom H1 recorder. For voiceovers, which is what I do most often, I use a Blue mic on a Rode articulating arm.
      I'm probably forgetting something, but that's the gist of it. Too much info? 😛

  • @paulcastro1361
    @paulcastro1361 Před 4 lety

    Hi there!
    Yonico does have 1/2" shank t-slot router bits. 3/8" X 1/2" and 1/2" X 1/2."
    I don't know if they sell them separately, because the ones I have came with the big 1/2" shank. set. I hope this will help somebody though.

  • @MarkThomas123
    @MarkThomas123 Před rokem

    Careful with the Yoniko 3/8" bits. The head should be 1/16" smaller. If you get dust on your shaft and think you are bottoming out, the head will twist through the slot.. The 3/8" shaft has a 9/16 wrench head and will twist right at 5/8" in a wrench, so, softer wood for sure it will twist.
    Find another bit for 3/8, or back up the fence 1/8" and make two passes with the 1/4" bit.. 1/4" does all I need though 99% of the time in a wooden track.
    Enjoy your videos. Thanks.

  • @makar0127
    @makar0127 Před 5 lety

    Дет ты молодец👍👍👍

  • @Wood_Slice
    @Wood_Slice Před 3 lety

    I can see the difference in price between Yonico and Rockler bit but you have to account for the 1/4" vs 1/2" shank bits. Even identical cutter bits from same manufacturer are different prices if different shank sizes as far as I have seen. Regardless of the price very informative video TYVM

  • @CindyL4261
    @CindyL4261 Před 3 lety

    “I love fire.” 😂😂😂

  • @sledgeHammerRulez
    @sledgeHammerRulez Před 4 lety

    Hi Dan, I need your thought on an observation that I just realize while making (still designing phase in sketchup) a drill press table: some fences have their T-tracks on top (like your drill press, correct?) and some on the side (like your router table or steve's drill press). Are there specific reasons to put them on top or the side? KUTGV! BTW, my drill press will have 3D printed T-tracks (or al least I gonna try, I did not yet see 3D printed T-tracks on youtube makers videos and maybe there is a reason fo :p).

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 4 lety

      Well, I *think* this is how I do it, but I reserve the right to be wrong. 😄If I want to use a flip-stop, then the t-track goes on the top of the fence (the "back" portion of two 3/4" pieces of plywood glued together). And it has to be a certain height, typically pretty low (check the requirements of the flip-stop you might want to use). But for the router table, I want the fence a little taller so the sliding pieces don't have to be too small, and also so that there's room for the dust port. So like I said, I think this is how I usually think about it. I hope that helps. 😄

  • @donf3739
    @donf3739 Před rokem

    Amana makes a good 5/8 X 3/16 1/2" shank T-Slot bit also, for a few dollars less than the Rockler.

  • @mr.p9882
    @mr.p9882 Před 2 lety

    I know...I just found another of your old videos...and in it you said you would be doing a video showing the install of the t-tracks after finishing it...looked all over your channel, could not find one...ever make it?

  • @WiliamBennettwildarbennett

    Newbie Dan, your answer to a better depth gauge is in your hand -@the 5:33 minute As a former machinist, I too had to learn to look at the obvious. The slide out extension on your calipers is for measuring depth/ height even for thicknesses. And also from experience using digital calipers, they can easily be out of adjustment by simple debris in the racking gears. Whereas a dial or veneer can be cleaned and re-zeroed.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +1

      William - Thanks for the comment. You got me to stop and think a little - I hate when that happens! 😄 But then I remembered why I used that gauge. I liked how it has two feet, making it more likely I'd get the fence to the right distance. At least that's what I was thinking, anyway. By the way, I have both digital and analog calipers, but I wanted to do the math with decimals. Of course, I didn't realize it was going to be such easy math... Oh, and both of my calipers, and the other gauge, can be calibrated, so that's not an issue. Assuming of course I actually *do* calibrate them. Fortunately, I didn't need to be *that* accurate for this. My table saw's fence, which made the final cut to 1", is a lot less accurate than the gauges. 😛 Do you agree with my thinking about the "two feet"?

    • @WiliamBennettwildarbennett
      @WiliamBennettwildarbennett Před 5 lety

      The Newbie Woodworker to quote from my cartoon her o Daddy Duck, 'That sounds logical.' And I understand you on zeroing the calipers. And good to hear that yours are able to do so. Back 30 years ago when digital were coming out they were a bugger to keep zeroed.
      Again looking forward to seeing more of your drillpress top.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      Thanks. I took another look at the digital calipers, and I'm not 100% sure they can be calibrated, however, I can use the "ABS" function to temporarily reset where "0" is, if I need to. I know for a fact the depth gauge can be calibrated, because I did it accidentally once, and had to "undo" it. :) Regarding looking forward to seeing more of my drill press table, so am I! I'm so close to done, I can taste it!!

    • @independent900
      @independent900 Před 5 lety +1

      I use the same gauge for the same reason. The caliper can be trickier to align and to ensure that it's perpendicular to the fence, especially when your fence is opened for the bit and dust collection.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      Thanks for the info!

  • @TeamProsperity
    @TeamProsperity Před 5 lety

    My question would be, how strong is the shoulder when you clamp down on material. Seems the shoulder of the T-track might snap or is there any upward pressure against the underside of the shoulder?

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      That's a great question. I've been using these on my drill press table for quite a while now. Yes, they make cracking sounds sometimes when I clamp down hard on something. So far, it hasn't resulted in any visible cracking, but time will tell. Honestly, I think they look great on my drill press table, but they're not nearly as practical as aluminum ones. Using them on something like a router table or a router table fence would make more sense, because any clamping doesn't really put much lifting pressure on them.

  • @g.m.forsythe9626
    @g.m.forsythe9626 Před 2 lety

    Thank you so much!! I just bought a bunch of T-Track and then started thinking....can't I just cut the slots into the wood? With a little care I should be able to do so....but I needed some guidance on which bits to use and what heights to set the router tol This will be a vital bookmark until I get familiar with how to do it without continually looking back. 😂😂

  • @HowIDoThingsDIY
    @HowIDoThingsDIY Před 3 lety

    Cool idea. I use t tracks on my projects on my channel. However, I can't imagine these are even close to as strong as the aluminum ones. What have you experiencd since you've made them?

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 3 lety

      They're actually surprisingly tough (depending on what they're made out of), but obviously not nearly as good as the aluminum ones. There are a lot of times where you don't need a lot of downward pressure, like with a fence. But the bottom line, for me, is that I'd only use them if there was a specific reason to, like how something looks. Especially since I've learned that you can use epoxy with aluminum t-tracks, so if you don't have enough room for screws, the epoxy holds great.

    • @HowIDoThingsDIY
      @HowIDoThingsDIY Před 3 lety

      @@TheNewbieWoodworker That's awesome, good to know! Thanks!

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 3 lety +1

      @@HowIDoThingsDIY You're quite welcome! 😄

  • @45bossdog
    @45bossdog Před 5 lety

    I’m going to try and make some wooden T tracks myself

  • @dougprentice1363
    @dougprentice1363 Před 5 lety

    Did you change your dust collection set up? The dust collection video where all your tools were in line.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety +1

      Nope, it's pretty-much the same. The router table is at the end of my tools, and I don't feature it much, so maybe you just haven't noticed before?

  • @TNtoolman
    @TNtoolman Před 5 lety +1

    Using the Yoniko bit I always cut a dado first and the bit does not burn the wood...

  • @robertbolar8839
    @robertbolar8839 Před 4 lety

    I have a knife and it is a ww2 carteraugus commando 225q and it has solid screw heads and I'm searching for ideas for removing them so I can replace the leather handle on this really nice knife.
    Any ideas out there let me know what you think.

  • @PartyTimeProDJs
    @PartyTimeProDJs Před 5 lety

    Are they still holding up or have you since switched over to manufactured t-slots? Also, do you think that using regular bolts is better than using t-slot bolts? Here’s why I ask...I’m thinking that the extra thickness of a regular bolt head would work better up against the wood groove, than the super thin head of a regular t-bolt or toilet bolt. I’m wondering if the regular thin t-boots or toilet bolts would eventually created spots in the groove that would make it hard to clamp to if needing to be off by a small fraction. For example let’s say a stop was regularly used at 20” over and over again. I’m assuming an indented groove would be created at that exact spot from the repeated use, especially from a thin t-bolt in a wood slot. If I now needed to have a stop block at 19 7/8” for example, I’m wondering if it would be extremely hard to do because the t-bolt would naturally fall into the 20” groove that was made from repeated use. A regular bolt I’m assuming could create the same issue, but with the extra “meat” (metal on the head), would it be less?
    Curious to hear your experience.

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      I think you're worries are well-founded. If I was using them like that, I think I'd want aluminum tracks. To me, it's not worth saving a few bucks when something is critical, like that.
      FWIW, I'm still using them in my drill press table, which is the only place I installed them. I use carriage bolts now, because they slide really well with the rounded heads. I use an angle grinder to flatten two "sides" of the head, so it fits in the slot. Have to be careful not to grind off *too* much, but it's easy once you do it a couple of times.
      So far the track is holding up fine. If I crank down a clamp too much, I can hear the wood "creaking", so I try to be careful. Personally, I love the way it looks in my drill press table, especially on camera. But I don't know how much I'd use them in other projects - I'd have to think on it for a while.

    • @PartyTimeProDJs
      @PartyTimeProDJs Před 5 lety

      The Newbie Woodworker. Thanks for the detailed reply and update. Very helpful!

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      @@PartyTimeProDJs 👍

  • @justingardner4555
    @justingardner4555 Před 5 lety

    I have been thinking about grabbing one of those bits. How strong are the slots?

    • @TheNewbieWoodworker
      @TheNewbieWoodworker  Před 5 lety

      So far, they're holding up pretty well. The ones cut with the smaller bit.