@@N3ZLA here king: the-smirk-squad-store.creator-spring.com/listing/rebellion-is-in-your-blood?product=2 I've followed this guy's meme pages for some time, he makes some real cool shirts. I got three from the guy, this one is probably my favorite.
I was an armor designer for BAE system for years. We made so many plates from dinner plates and tiles. They absolutely work. Add titanium layers as backing or just order 416 stainless steel in 2mm. You get great results. Wrapping it in nylon worth gorilla glue will help spall. Or a thin sheet of aluminum on top.
You can cover the front with thin layer of fiberglass to avoid ceramic falling apart. That way part of the ceramic crush would remain in the armor and contribute to breaking up follow up shots. In production body armor tests, you can actually see that while ceramic is crushed in the pocket, it continues to break apart bullets even when shots land in the same spot.
@xxxlonewolf49 the tile should be in front and then fiberglass, then steel. If the steel is in front, the bullet is going to go through and the there will be tile spalling which might injure you
@Tantheman. Oh yes. Fiberglass wrapn tile, more Fiberglass then a metal backer is my thoughts. Could stick a 2nd metal layer in the middle, but weight till go up
Saw another design made with 2 floor tiles, plywood, then 5/16 steel. Wrapped in ductape. Pretty light and held up well with 223, 556. 7.62x39. Clean design
Can't remember if you mentioned it in this video, but it would be great to see some curved or multi-curved designs. I understand these would probably be of a lower protection rating than the plates shows in this video, but they would fit our plate carrier much easier. Fantastic work so far. Quite unbelievable that such simple materials can be manipulated into working pieces of armour.
This is the most cost effective armor I ever saw. If you used a layer of 40 layers of kevlar you can make it stronger for like the same price. Also if you also made a catching layer of anything that'll slow bullet, it would definitely become a level 4-level 4+. Guard dog has layers like that, the kevlar layer and a few layers to slow bullet. Body armor I realized is a really good business hopefully you get a license and start a business.
Awesome work and video. Came to mind at 10:50 when you mentioned placing a layer of fiberglass on top to hold it together, came to mind trying out makeing a pouch out of fiber glass warp or use a large piece to wrap it around the front and over on all 4 sides with it meeting at the back to keep all 4 sides from blowing out. Keep up the great work!
Have you tested different resin types on strength? Like vinyl esters or epoxy resins instead of the polyester resin. You could also try vacuum bagging during construction.
I have a bit. Epoxy is always going to be the strongest honestly. One of my favorite is: theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adhesives/structural-strength/max-bond/max-bond-low-viscosity-ab/max-bond-low-viscosity-32-oz-epoxy-resin-fiberglassing-marine-aero-auto-boat-building-high-impact/ I used this for my ballistic mask and hat build, if you've seen those. It would be fun to do a head to head comparison of resins some day. Vacuum bagging is amazing, as well as resin transfer. I was keeping this build simple, and only things found in hardware stores. but I plan on using more advanced methods and materials in the future! Thanks for the suggestion, showing different methods and materials is what this channel is all about!
@@shoes121255 Chopped strand does not work well at all. The welding blankets (woven roving) works because it kind of stretches linearly across the length of the strand. Chopped strand just rips off the cloth. It is poor man's aramid.
Not sure I would wear these plates. But it is something that I would consider making to place inside vehicle doors and on the back of the seats to protect from crazy road rage people for sure!
I’m li’l late to the party. I’ve watched ZNA’s (the original video), I watched Backyard Ballistics video of ZNA’s homemade plate and now I’m about a third of the way into watching this video here of yours. First, let me say, for those I’ve watched and seen so far, and what li’l of yours I’ve seen so far, for homemade plates, I’m impressed! As far as this first video of yours so far, since they’re all made basically the same, these three so far anyhow, I’d of loved to have seen some different handgun caliber testing on one plate, some different rifle caliber testing on another and then some combination testing of say 9mm, .40S&W & .45acp and .223/5.56, 7.62X39 and maybe even some .308 testing on another. Or, testing of each caliber on their own plate. But that would be both time consuming and expensive. But hey, the more thorough the testing the better right? And like the other videos I mentioned, yours is great and informative as well. Thank you!
FYI: if you put a layer of fiberglass on front it going to delaminate with the first shot unless you can mechanically fasten it to the back side, using a thread weave or staples. You have to drill small holes in the tiles to connect the front fiberglass to the back. Or sew tile segements between two layers of fiberglass using kevlar or some very strong thread. Maybe mono-filament (fishing line - not as strong but cheap).
very nice! i wonder if you could make a comparison, with the same welding blanket and same amount of layers of polyester resin vs epoxy resin vs phenolic resin (because i know that in soviet era tanks, for thoose that used a fiberglass composite, the resin was phenolic, so, the resine used to make bakelite)
normal lvl3 + steel plates are around 100 with carrier when you get them on sale.... just wait until till you can find them on sale if your going to actually use them. but for playing around experimentation very good job !
@ElijahDecker you can Crack ceramic plates from dropping them. I'd much rather have steel. The only downside is splatter which is extremely unlikely to result in death. But breaking your armor in half might be. I had a lvl 4 set of ceramic that weighed what felt like 50lb. I don't recommend it.
@@harley-cq6de Ceramic composite plates are far more durable than you think. Realistically, you'd have to suffer an impact that itself would be potentially fatal, like getting hit by a car or falling off a building, for the plate to be compromised. I have a set of level IV multicurve ceramic plates that weighs 15lbs. Steel plates don't even come in level IV (only level III), can often be penetrated by common M193 ball at close range, and weighs at least 20lbs. Not to mention the threat of bullet fragmentation and potential for ricochets.
one suggestion, you could sandwich 1/8 inch thick aluminum plates in between the ceramic layers, it shouldn't ad much mass but it should increase you're protection by around 50%, it would be really cool to see it stop 30-06 black tip.
The extra layer would also help stopping the spall from the ceramic and shrapnel from the busted bullets from spattering you with fragments. Good video boss
the ceramic front is a great idea! i remember some cheap homemade plate which was shown at shooting rage yt video, it was just thick metal hardglued with some hard thick rubber slab
I know it would be heavy, but have you considered adhering the plates with polyurea instead of resin? Those polyurea coatings are damn near bulletproof on their own and will definitely hold the plates in place while also preventing spalling.
Very impressive! I would be interested in seeing a spall test. That practically bare ceramic strike face is the only thing keeping me from completely betting my life on one of these things.
It’s crazy to think how far body armor has it gone it went from musket projectiles, just walking directly through the armor of a knight to this guy building level three body armor in his backyard
Awesome and I'm watching everything you post. Have you tried to use polycarbonate wedged between welding blankets. Also, please tell us the number of layers of glass you use. You have me hooked on your channel!
What I would like to add is a 4mm-5mm geopolymer near the top layers. Then use the usual stuff you use. I think that would substitute for ceramic plates. It is heavier I think but much harder. Problem is do we have some chemistry professors who would help us mix stuff safely?... Maybe you could add fine diatomic sand in the resin? Might increase hardness and help increase friction for the bullet.
Making some of these with my kids this weekend, then slipping them in their backpacks. Thank you sir! Should be a great time! Cant wait until i can pew pew in my own back yard one day
Try a thin layer of aluminum sheeting shaped over and around the edges of the front of your plate. Chemsol also makes some FANTASTIC surface coatings that will almost definitely hold together better than the caulking youre using. Navy G is super expensive, but really goes a long way. They have a long line of surface treatments that do great things, but Navy G is the best.
Lol just watching you guys for the first time. I saw the Russian 7.62x54R LPS rounds you had picked up and shown the camera and I gasped. I have 2 rounds sitting on my desk right in front of me. I picked it up to to compare it to the screen. Made me laugh from the coincidence in round choice. You guys are doing great! Keep up the good work!
@@BackyardRambo fin roller works Grey too. Would be simple enough to use either to get better saturation on this flat object. We use 4oz glass in certain areas on surfboards, particularly the top deck to help decrease pressure dings.
Concerning polyester resin application to your woven cloth " fire blanket" 1. you can thin the resin with " Styrene" for quicker absorption and quicker work time 15-20 by volume . You can also add less activator to your resin " as long as you stir it well " this will give you another five minutes work time and less waste. The cure time will be a few hours longer but it will not effect the overall hardness .
The very first thing I noticed is the clumping or grouping of the fiberglass fibers. If you somehow unweaved the fiberglass fibers and could get them to be more finely spread out in the resin I think it would make a massive difference. Think pykrete but with fiberglass and resin. Hopefully this makes sense.
I would have used layers of paper/canvas/welding blankets compressed in resin. I would also alternate each layer in verical strips followed by horizontal strips and then repeat until the desired thickness and armor rating is ultimately achieved.
You could possibly install a small electric jack in the door to lift the heavy bulletproof glass up and down. They make jacks that are powered by the 12v socket in cars.
There’s one detail in which I believe is important in the original video or original video I saw. The shape of the plate… The reason flat plates aren’t used as much anymore is the deflection. A body molded plate cast should yield a better result. IMO
Hi! Maybe it will be kinda expensive, but you can try 2017A and 2024 aluminium alloys. They have very similiar properties to 7039 alloy that is used as APC armor.
I'm working on a method of hot pressing ceramic directly into AR400 plate steel. So the plate steel will be like a composite on top with ceramic on its face. That's going to be backed with Kevlar and ballistics gel padding. Maybe I'll do a video to see how it works. This channel is pretty cool. Gives me a lot of neat ideas. 👍
If you have a right angle grinder you can put a wheel on it to cut tile. I used to lay tile on grass and just cut it with the grinder, more than capable for this job… doing a bathroom maybe not
An interesting remake of this would be with hexagonal tiles in two layers, instead of one solid, with the seams staggered. It seems that this might further increase the multi hit capabilities.
“Next few weeks you’ll get more consistent uploads” 😒😒 bro.. you have been the only person to go to for this kind of content. Shits getting bad out here and need updates soon😅😅
Do you think i could make a 5x5 plate/wall just 1 piece just not cutting the welding blanket? Im trying to make a safe spot i can send my kids if need be.
You would need 30 blankets and have a way to squeeze them together with the resin. You would likely have to vacuum bag to feed the resin in before it started to harden. Vacuum bagging could squeeze everything together for you too. In the end for cost and simplicity i would recommend buying a 3/8 in thick sheet of abrasion resistant steel (ar400 or ar500). It will stop any of these rounds without issue even if hit in the same spot multiple times
Another thing that can be cheaply applied over large areas is hardi-siding. You can get 4x8 sheets and 3 layers stops m855, 7.62x39, 7.62x51/.308…. Not sure on 7.62x54R fmj and LPS.
Have you observed any difference between the large single-piece ceramic armor vs the smaller pieced-together ceramic armor on crack propagation? That is, do bullet impacts create cracks that “jump” from one tile to another? Maybe the pieced-together armor acts similar to rip stop fabric.
QUESTION PLEASE: * If someone was wearing this armor and they were hit with one of your larger caliber bullets, what in your opinion would happen to that person? * I know there are many variables in this type of question but, I'm really really curious what your research shows (aka your personal knowledge about the subject). Are we talking: 1. the person is knocked out? and/or 2. the person has multiple broken ribs? and/or 3 the person has life-threatening internal injuries where they would need immediate medical attention at a hospital? I've seen many of these tests but, as a "prepper" myself, and someone who grew up with guns (hunting etc), I'm very very curious. Thanks for doing the tests Amen Retired, Veteran
man! love it that you do it with clay, very few do it, clay shows suprisingly the most ccurate damga behaviour, much more as all other stuff, dont mind the bible haha ;D
I'm curious if u used the welding blanket for the back 3/4, then put a steal plate on, then put the last 1/4 of welding blanket and resin to stop the bullet spraying your face if that would be better than ceramic. It would definitely be heavier but steal doesn't shatter like ceramic so u could take more rounds b4 having a pass through. Great work tho, 👏 👍
Great work! Might I suggest making them a couple inches wider ,and then making a more pronounced "fold" where plate is like it's been folded in half, but not completely,making it slope, and therefore, bullet is facing 1.5x the resistance as straight on?
Nice designs in a future video, how about a fiuu combat armor test with armor based on baseball shin guards, football thigh protection, a chest plate and football shoulder pads. Giving total suit weight and how much it could absorb
Hi I know I'm kinda late but I've heard about jel or foam pads that are sometimes used in armour just to further soften the blow of an already stopped bullet. Do you think you could try this in the future?
Sure can! My favorite energy absorbing backer is this gel/foam. shocktec.com/ I used it in my hat build a few years ago on this channel, if you wanna take a look. There are others though, I'll be sure to do a trama pad (what your refuring to) in a video coming up! Thanks for the suggestion.
Called trauma pads. A material called d30 is non-newtonian (think corn starch & water on steroids) thats used in hockey and motorcycle gear which would be perfect. Haven't found them available for civilian market
Here is a interesting chalange for you (I'm going to copy paste this comment on afew videos so you notice it)... Fiberglass balistic helmet or just a full diy balistic helmet series including back face deformation testing. My idea is a fiberglass helmet with thin steel bars impeded on the inner layers of fiberglass forming a lattice shape to prevent serious back face deformation.
Also, if you guys could share this video I would be forever grateful.
Where did you get that shirt?
@@N3ZLA here king: the-smirk-squad-store.creator-spring.com/listing/rebellion-is-in-your-blood?product=2 I've followed this guy's meme pages for some time, he makes some real cool shirts. I got three from the guy, this one is probably my favorite.
@@Techthisoutmeow thanks!
I thought prepper circles would be all over vids like this
@@evansaw293 they filter in over time
Thanks for the shout-out, bud! Great video.
For sure brother! Your videos are amazing.
ngl, you're the main reason i got into machining, so thanks for showing a broke kid now broke young adult how to make things on a budget
@@kooolainebulger8117fuck yea man keep it up.
I was an armor designer for BAE system for years. We made so many plates from dinner plates and tiles. They absolutely work. Add titanium layers as backing or just order 416 stainless steel in 2mm. You get great results. Wrapping it in nylon worth gorilla glue will help spall. Or a thin sheet of aluminum on top.
Where can one get titanium layers?
@@mrinterestedRussia and China
Suggestions on how to build one for a truck door?
What about 6mm aluminium plate as a backing ?
McMaster-Carr will probably have whatever you could want.
They're a large industrial supply vendor that sells to the public
Just put soundproofing in my truck… im ready for the next layer of protection. 😉
I feel you, the jeep build is coming along!
Sound PROOFING or sound REDUCING! Is this the tard channel?
Compare to 1/4” plate and laminated with 1/4” plate.
you’ve seen the Killdozer 2.0 video on youtube?
You can cover the front with thin layer of fiberglass to avoid ceramic falling apart. That way part of the ceramic crush would remain in the armor and contribute to breaking up follow up shots. In production body armor tests, you can actually see that while ceramic is crushed in the pocket, it continues to break apart bullets even when shots land in the same spot.
He literally said he was going to do exactly that.
My thought exactly.
Also, an Edge-Shot can be expected to delaminate the plate and Pass-Tru.
My viewers directed me here---good shit man.
Thanks brother! Your channel is great, if you ever want to test out some armor I can send you some!
Respect for the shoutout to ZNA, and super impressed with how much progress you were able to make in the development!
I greatly appreciate your inclusion of the weight in the variables, this helps a lot.
simple and effective you cost efficient diy. wow. thank you young man. papa
You welcome, more to come soon!
A full suit would probably look like Star Wars Stormtrooper Armor lol Another point for style and aesthetic
I want a Vader build so bad
it would be super heavy though
I'd luv to that, add the metal layer & Fiberglass on top.
@xxxlonewolf49 the tile should be in front and then fiberglass, then steel. If the steel is in front, the bullet is going to go through and the there will be tile spalling which might injure you
@Tantheman. Oh yes. Fiberglass wrapn tile, more Fiberglass then a metal backer is my thoughts. Could stick a 2nd metal layer in the middle, but weight till go up
Saw another design made with 2 floor tiles, plywood, then 5/16 steel. Wrapped in ductape. Pretty light and held up well with 223, 556. 7.62x39. Clean design
A square foot of even A36 5/16” steel plate is over 12 lbs.
Nice job shouting out ZNA I still watch him good guy this is a great video thank you
I love that you gave ZNA a shoutout.
I also appreciate your obvious knowledge of engineering rules, as you understand stress concentrations and things like hard corners, thank you 👏
Can't remember if you mentioned it in this video, but it would be great to see some curved or multi-curved designs. I understand these would probably be of a lower protection rating than the plates shows in this video, but they would fit our plate carrier much easier.
Fantastic work so far. Quite unbelievable that such simple materials can be manipulated into working pieces of armour.
Great work!
Thanks brother
This is the most cost effective armor I ever saw. If you used a layer of 40 layers of kevlar you can make it stronger for like the same price. Also if you also made a catching layer of anything that'll slow bullet, it would definitely become a level 4-level 4+. Guard dog has layers like that, the kevlar layer and a few layers to slow bullet. Body armor I realized is a really good business hopefully you get a license and start a business.
Awesome work and video. Came to mind at 10:50 when you mentioned placing a layer of fiberglass on top to hold it together, came to mind trying out makeing a pouch out of fiber glass warp or use a large piece to wrap it around the front and over on all 4 sides with it meeting at the back to keep all 4 sides from blowing out. Keep up the great work!
Your work is amazing
Thanks brother! Plenty more coming in
ZNA is the man :)
Glad to see someone else making more stuff like that!
Have you tested different resin types on strength? Like vinyl esters or epoxy resins instead of the polyester resin. You could also try vacuum bagging during construction.
I have a bit. Epoxy is always going to be the strongest honestly. One of my favorite is: theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adhesives/structural-strength/max-bond/max-bond-low-viscosity-ab/max-bond-low-viscosity-32-oz-epoxy-resin-fiberglassing-marine-aero-auto-boat-building-high-impact/ I used this for my ballistic mask and hat build, if you've seen those. It would be fun to do a head to head comparison of resins some day. Vacuum bagging is amazing, as well as resin transfer. I was keeping this build simple, and only things found in hardware stores. but I plan on using more advanced methods and materials in the future! Thanks for the suggestion, showing different methods and materials is what this channel is all about!
What about chopped strand mat instead of the welding blankets?
@@Techthisoutmeow ok I’m piling on this thought, have you looked at any epoxy fillers? Maybe westsystem 404 high density filler?
@@shoes121255 Chopped strand does not work well at all. The welding blankets (woven roving) works because it kind of stretches linearly across the length of the strand. Chopped strand just rips off the cloth. It is poor man's aramid.
Instead of this sealant couldnt we just use flex seal glue ?
Not sure I would wear these plates. But it is something that I would consider making to place inside vehicle doors and on the back of the seats to protect from crazy road rage people for sure!
I’m li’l late to the party. I’ve watched ZNA’s (the original video), I watched Backyard Ballistics video of ZNA’s homemade plate and now I’m about a third of the way into watching this video here of yours.
First, let me say, for those I’ve watched and seen so far, and what li’l of yours I’ve seen so far, for homemade plates, I’m impressed!
As far as this first video of yours so far, since they’re all made basically the same, these three so far anyhow, I’d of loved to have seen some different handgun caliber testing on one plate, some different rifle caliber testing on another and then some combination testing of say 9mm, .40S&W & .45acp and .223/5.56, 7.62X39 and maybe even some .308 testing on another. Or, testing of each caliber on their own plate. But that would be both time consuming and expensive. But hey, the more thorough the testing the better right?
And like the other videos I mentioned, yours is great and informative as well. Thank you!
Dude, you had me at Hardware store plates. New sub. Much love from NC. 🤙🇺🇸
I just put on a denim outfit and take a bath in fiberglass resin every evening.
Big ups for the ZNA shoutout! One of my favourite videos that one too, imagine that lmao
FYI: if you put a layer of fiberglass on front it going to delaminate with the first shot unless you can mechanically fasten it to the back side, using a thread weave or staples. You have to drill small holes in the tiles to connect the front fiberglass to the back. Or sew tile segements between two layers of fiberglass using kevlar or some very strong thread. Maybe mono-filament (fishing line - not as strong but cheap).
very nice! i wonder if you could make a comparison, with the same welding blanket and same amount of layers of polyester resin vs epoxy resin vs phenolic resin (because i know that in soviet era tanks, for thoose that used a fiberglass composite, the resin was phenolic, so, the resine used to make bakelite)
normal lvl3 + steel plates are around 100 with carrier when you get them on sale.... just wait until till you can find them on sale if your going to actually use them. but for playing around experimentation very good job !
I'd trust homemade ceramic composite plates over steel plates. Steel plates are really that bad.
@ElijahDecker you can Crack ceramic plates from dropping them. I'd much rather have steel. The only downside is splatter which is extremely unlikely to result in death. But breaking your armor in half might be. I had a lvl 4 set of ceramic that weighed what felt like 50lb. I don't recommend it.
@@harley-cq6de Ceramic composite plates are far more durable than you think. Realistically, you'd have to suffer an impact that itself would be potentially fatal, like getting hit by a car or falling off a building, for the plate to be compromised.
I have a set of level IV multicurve ceramic plates that weighs 15lbs. Steel plates don't even come in level IV (only level III), can often be penetrated by common M193 ball at close range, and weighs at least 20lbs. Not to mention the threat of bullet fragmentation and potential for ricochets.
one suggestion, you could sandwich 1/8 inch thick aluminum plates in between the ceramic layers, it shouldn't ad much mass but it should increase you're protection by around 50%, it would be really cool to see it stop 30-06 black tip.
Great video as always. Would love to see the large plates tested with the milk jug plastic similarly to how you did these.
The extra layer would also help stopping the spall from the ceramic and shrapnel from the busted bullets from spattering you with fragments. Good video boss
How to book time. Just do it!!!
Make $ while the world makes armor from your instructions, thoughts and experience. Id buy a copy today.
great stuff... I haven't watched full video yet, but glad you included weights
the ceramic front is a great idea! i remember some cheap homemade plate which was shown at shooting rage yt video, it was just thick metal hardglued with some hard thick rubber slab
I know it would be heavy, but have you considered adhering the plates with polyurea instead of resin? Those polyurea coatings are damn near bulletproof on their own and will definitely hold the plates in place while also preventing spalling.
Very impressive! I would be interested in seeing a spall test. That practically bare ceramic strike face is the only thing keeping me from completely betting my life on one of these things.
Fiberglass resin layer or some of that line-x or kevlar lining
It’s crazy to think how far body armor has it gone it went from musket projectiles, just walking directly through the armor of a knight to this guy building level three body armor in his backyard
Spray on bed liner may help keep the ceramic held together as well
Your neighbors and their dogs must love you.
Awesome and I'm watching everything you post. Have you tried to use polycarbonate wedged between welding blankets. Also, please tell us the number of layers of glass you use. You have me hooked on your channel!
Body plates are cool, but a nice sided ballistic shield is what you want to get behind, especially when they are shooting through the walls at you.
What I would like to add is a 4mm-5mm geopolymer near the top layers. Then use the usual stuff you use. I think that would substitute for ceramic plates. It is heavier I think but much harder.
Problem is do we have some chemistry professors who would help us mix stuff safely?...
Maybe you could add fine diatomic sand in the resin? Might increase hardness and help increase friction for the bullet.
You need to do a collaboration with demolition ranch Matt would love the targets and you’d love the accommodations and caliber options
If you coated the Strikeface with a Polyurethane Bed-Liner, you would have a masterpiece!
Good work, Brother.
Making some of these with my kids this weekend, then slipping them in their backpacks. Thank you sir! Should be a great time! Cant wait until i can pew pew in my own back yard one day
I guess they will notice the weight!
u doing to much bud
They definitely won't grow up to h ate you
Try a thin layer of aluminum sheeting shaped over and around the edges of the front of your plate.
Chemsol also makes some FANTASTIC surface coatings that will almost definitely hold together better than the caulking youre using.
Navy G is super expensive, but really goes a long way. They have a long line of surface treatments that do great things, but Navy G is the best.
Lol just watching you guys for the first time. I saw the Russian 7.62x54R LPS rounds you had picked up and shown the camera and I gasped. I have 2 rounds sitting on my desk right in front of me. I picked it up to to compare it to the screen. Made me laugh from the coincidence in round choice. You guys are doing great! Keep up the good work!
I saw that ZNA video back 5 years or whatever ago, and I commented that he should try a ceramic floor tile strike face. Good work man
Tip: use an epoxy resin and press/spread it using a squeegee. It’s how we do it in surfboards for uniform saturation and no air bubbles
Or a fin roller. Dude has no clue what 1708 glass is. Boards use 2oz, 1708 is biaxial glass I use for my boat project.
@@BackyardRambo fin roller works Grey too. Would be simple enough to use either to get better saturation on this flat object. We use 4oz glass in certain areas on surfboards, particularly the top deck to help decrease pressure dings.
I didn't read all the comments but try putting in in a vacuum and compression. Maybe. Just a thought.
Concerning polyester resin application to your woven cloth " fire blanket" 1. you can thin the resin with " Styrene" for quicker absorption and quicker work time 15-20 by volume . You can also add less activator to your resin " as long as you stir it well " this will give you another five minutes work time and less waste. The cure time will be a few hours longer but it will not effect the overall hardness .
Those plates are thicker than any I have ever seen
Great video ! And congrats !
Put your extra layer of material and then coat it with truck bed liner……it helps to keep everything together upon impact improves the surface
Rad 🤩
You know 3 years ago I never thought this was possible.
The very first thing I noticed is the clumping or grouping of the fiberglass fibers. If you somehow unweaved the fiberglass fibers and could get them to be more finely spread out in the resin I think it would make a massive difference. Think pykrete but with fiberglass and resin. Hopefully this makes sense.
I would have used layers of paper/canvas/welding blankets compressed in resin. I would also alternate each layer in verical strips followed by horizontal strips and then repeat until the desired thickness and armor rating is ultimately achieved.
interesting and incredibly informative video - you're doing good work out here!
To keep the ceramic from flying apart, try wrapping the entire plate in duct tape. Just an idea.
If it passes through... that fiberglass.... oooooooooooooofffffff
You could possibly install a small electric jack in the door to lift the heavy bulletproof glass up and down. They make jacks that are powered by the 12v socket in cars.
Most armored cars use sliding windows when they are openable
Fuuuck yes! My main build is almost Identical I never tested it like that tho. I may scrap my UHMWPE build after seeing how well this works.
nice new video man
Thanks brother, we'll have a new discord soon
nice
There’s one detail in which I believe is important in the original video or original video I saw.
The shape of the plate… The reason flat plates aren’t used as much anymore is the deflection.
A body molded plate cast should yield a better result. IMO
The leading DIY scientist of body armor ☝🏻 keep up the good work my dude
Very impressive work. I learned a lot from this video.
Hi! Maybe it will be kinda expensive, but you can try 2017A and 2024 aluminium alloys. They have very similiar properties to 7039 alloy that is used as APC armor.
What a cool project, thank you for making this video
Amazing results
Great Video Bro! Thanks for the Great Ideas and Content!
I'm working on a method of hot pressing ceramic directly into AR400 plate steel. So the plate steel will be like a composite on top with ceramic on its face. That's going to be backed with Kevlar and ballistics gel padding. Maybe I'll do a video to see how it works. This channel is pretty cool. Gives me a lot of neat ideas. 👍
You have great neighbors
ZNA productions is a real one.
If you have a right angle grinder you can put a wheel on it to cut tile. I used to lay tile on grass and just cut it with the grinder, more than capable for this job… doing a bathroom maybe not
An interesting remake of this would be with hexagonal tiles in two layers, instead of one solid, with the seams staggered. It seems that this might further increase the multi hit capabilities.
It would also allow curved plates. Try fiberglass between the layers and wrapped around to hold it all together.
“Next few weeks you’ll get more consistent uploads” 😒😒 bro.. you have been the only person to go to for this kind of content. Shits getting bad out here and need updates soon😅😅
Do you think i could make a 5x5 plate/wall just 1 piece just not cutting the welding blanket? Im trying to make a safe spot i can send my kids if need be.
You would need 30 blankets and have a way to squeeze them together with the resin. You would likely have to vacuum bag to feed the resin in before it started to harden. Vacuum bagging could squeeze everything together for you too.
In the end for cost and simplicity i would recommend buying a 3/8 in thick sheet of abrasion resistant steel (ar400 or ar500). It will stop any of these rounds without issue even if hit in the same spot multiple times
@@BrokeWrench ty
Another thing that can be cheaply applied over large areas is hardi-siding. You can get 4x8 sheets and 3 layers stops m855, 7.62x39, 7.62x51/.308…. Not sure on 7.62x54R fmj and LPS.
Have you observed any difference between the large single-piece ceramic armor vs the smaller pieced-together ceramic armor on crack propagation? That is, do bullet impacts create cracks that “jump” from one tile to another? Maybe the pieced-together armor acts similar to rip stop fabric.
Have you ever considered using sprayon truck bed liner on the outside instead of the white resin material.
You’ve outdone yourself.
Great video, I’ve been enjoying the progress
QUESTION PLEASE:
* If someone was wearing this armor and they were hit with one of your larger caliber bullets, what in your opinion would happen to that person?
* I know there are many variables in this type of question but, I'm really really curious what your research shows (aka your personal knowledge about the subject).
Are we talking:
1. the person is knocked out? and/or
2. the person has multiple broken ribs? and/or
3 the person has life-threatening internal injuries where they would need immediate medical attention at a hospital?
I've seen many of these tests but, as a "prepper" myself, and someone who grew up with guns (hunting etc), I'm very very curious.
Thanks for doing the tests
Amen
Retired, Veteran
man! love it that you do it with clay, very few do it, clay shows suprisingly the most ccurate damga behaviour, much more as all other stuff, dont mind the bible haha ;D
A few layers of stainless sheet metal mixed in the layers would improve things exponentially.
Use a tile break, way faster to cut the long cut. Thanks for the video
So upset the discord is gone, Kek filled me in. Great work regardless.
Something new is in the works, and if we have a discord this time they'll be a backup somewhere else.
@@Techthisoutmeow Just checked my discord now and felt something was off. I don't like change.
Dont use disxord its full of gr00mers and f3ds
I'm curious if u used the welding blanket for the back 3/4, then put a steal plate on, then put the last 1/4 of welding blanket and resin to stop the bullet spraying your face if that would be better than ceramic. It would definitely be heavier but steal doesn't shatter like ceramic so u could take more rounds b4 having a pass through. Great work tho, 👏 👍
Try incorporating 3/4 hdpe on the front of your plates as it dissipates energy and may reduce the need for so much backing
Great work! Might I suggest making them a couple inches wider ,and then making a more pronounced "fold" where plate is like it's been folded in half, but not completely,making it slope, and therefore, bullet is facing 1.5x the resistance as straight on?
Keep grinding this out. Thanks for the vids.
You could make it even stronger if you got a few layers of fiber glass and epoxy resin. Which would hold it together better after a few shots
Nice designs in a future video, how about a fiuu combat armor test with armor based on baseball shin guards, football thigh protection, a chest plate and football shoulder pads. Giving total suit weight and how much it could absorb
Tape seams you cut from the welding blanket to stop flaring/frizzing
Hi I know I'm kinda late but I've heard about jel or foam pads that are sometimes used in armour just to further soften the blow of an already stopped bullet. Do you think you could try this in the future?
Sure can! My favorite energy absorbing backer is this gel/foam. shocktec.com/ I used it in my hat build a few years ago on this channel, if you wanna take a look. There are others though, I'll be sure to do a trama pad (what your refuring to) in a video coming up! Thanks for the suggestion.
Called trauma pads. A material called d30 is non-newtonian (think corn starch & water on steroids) thats used in hockey and motorcycle gear which would be perfect. Haven't found them available for civilian market
Nicely done friend
Here is a interesting chalange for you (I'm going to copy paste this comment on afew videos so you notice it)...
Fiberglass balistic helmet or just a full diy balistic helmet series including back face deformation testing.
My idea is a fiberglass helmet with thin steel bars impeded on the inner layers of fiberglass forming a lattice shape to prevent serious back face deformation.
Polyethylene glycol and silica powder,as laminator for fibreglass and put a convex crease down center,makes bullet strike a thicker face.
Great video. What about bullet spalling and splash? This would be of concern for effective protection.