I have a long standing fear of heights. I've been climbing for a few years now and I'm finally regularly topping out my gym's 63' walls. I still have an issue going for hard moves or ledges because of the fear of falling. I really want to progress to lead climbing to up the ante and the challenge. Looks like I need to practice falling a lot.
Oddly, I have pretty solid faith in tested gear. I just have none in my own ability to not trip over my own feet even while standing still. Standing anywhere near the edge of a cliff is terrifying, but anchored and tug tested, no problem leaning out for a look.
That's why my Belay Biner is a 'Black Diamond Gridlock Magnetron Carabiner.' I don't have any other Magnetrons because of their price, but that one is freaking awesome. I'll never use anything else as my belay biner unless something better comes along. So easy to pass back n forth in the gym too!
I am confused. The climber is clearly grabbing his rope (at 2:10) yet yesterday when I tried to pass my lead belay/climb test at PG, the instructor told me that grabbing the rope when you fall is bad. You shouldn't touch anything, or else you could lose a finger. What gives...?
Grabbing the knot or rope directly at your harness is okay. The only disadvantage is that you don’t have your hands free to protect yourself. Grabbing a quick draw or anything else is bad. Imagine getting your finger stuck in there. Even if you manage to grab something the sudden jolt can injure your arms. Grabbing the knot can help with your grabbing reflex.
the side of the rope that is tied to you, travels with you, while the other end runs upward really fast and if you try to catch it, you will find yourself with a pair of injured hands. The best is to learn to overcome the instinct of trying to hold on to anything, that will keep you 100% safe all the time.
I am just learning lead climbing and falling still scares me, so I grab my figure 8 knot instead when I feel like I need to grab something. Eventually I would like to get into the habit of not touching anything but I think it's okay to grab your knot.
It's recommended to grab the rope after impact but not before. Read This from the wiki on lead climbing: "While these injuries happen, the authors imply they did not happen often. However, someone who climbs 3-4 days a week might take 1000 lead falls a year.[5] With that in mind, Schöffl and Küpper suggest climbers should fall with their hands up and slightly forward and with feet down and slightly forward as well. They explain that this method of falling would allow the climber to make contact with the wall with limbs that can absorb force, rather than with other less-absorbent parts of the body. After impact, Schöffl and Küpper instruct the climber to grab the rope (it is completely stretched out and unable to cause injury) in order to refrain from tipping upside down.[5] This method of falling will eliminate injuries caused by prematurely grabbing the rope or other pieces of protection, as well as virtually eliminating neck injuries."
An anchor rotating slightly under load allows it to take the load in the strongest direction. Just like a carabiner being gate loaded, their strength is significantly reduced in side loading. The actual bolt is not twisting and it's being loaded entirely in shear. Even a 3/8 or 10mm wedge bolt, once set, will require 9-10kN (2,000lb) away from the wall to pull it out or 20-24kN (5,000lb) downward force to shear it off. The beener (and your rope and your spine) will snap first.
"Unless you see a ledge don't push off" The guy in this video pushed off or fell backwards a slightly rather than just limply falling straight down the wall where he could have gotten banged up. For low angle friction climbing on slabs you might just want to slide down on your feet hoping they will catch........
NEVER run backwards, it will most likely result in your feet slipping and likely causing you to impact the wall with your face. Sometimes, on a non-vertical wall, it does make sense to push off the wall with your hands so you don't hit a ledge below you. Great question, by the way.
I like how they made all the falls in slow motion so it doesn’t seem as scary lol
I have a long standing fear of heights. I've been climbing for a few years now and I'm finally regularly topping out my gym's 63' walls. I still have an issue going for hard moves or ledges because of the fear of falling. I really want to progress to lead climbing to up the ante and the challenge. Looks like I need to practice falling a lot.
Practice falling intentionally.
Oddly, I have pretty solid faith in tested gear. I just have none in my own ability to not trip over my own feet even while standing still. Standing anywhere near the edge of a cliff is terrifying, but anchored and tug tested, no problem leaning out for a look.
Thanks for this! ❤ I took a bad one and flipped yesterday almost hit my head. I'm here to make sure that doesn't happen again 🙏
Oops. Cross loaded biner at 01:34. Happens to the best of us.
That's why my Belay Biner is a 'Black Diamond Gridlock Magnetron Carabiner.' I don't have any other Magnetrons because of their price, but that one is freaking awesome. I'll never use anything else as my belay biner unless something better comes along. So easy to pass back n forth in the gym too!
Was going to say that
As others have said, there are belay carabiners which are designed to prevent this.
Matt Nicassio worth upgrading from the screwgate version?
Yah it does
awesome video for this beginner, thanks!
Some long falls in this video for how close to the bolt the climber is.
It's called soft catch, and makes it safer. Try some practise falls, they will be further than you think, too.
demonstration purposes
I am confused. The climber is clearly grabbing his rope (at 2:10) yet yesterday when I tried to pass my lead belay/climb test at PG, the instructor told me that grabbing the rope when you fall is bad. You shouldn't touch anything, or else you could lose a finger. What gives...?
Grabbing the knot or rope directly at your harness is okay. The only disadvantage is that you don’t have your hands free to protect yourself.
Grabbing a quick draw or anything else is bad. Imagine getting your finger stuck in there. Even if you manage to grab something the sudden jolt can injure your arms.
Grabbing the knot can help with your grabbing reflex.
the side of the rope that is tied to you, travels with you, while the other end runs upward really fast and if you try to catch it, you will find yourself with a pair of injured hands. The best is to learn to overcome the instinct of trying to hold on to anything, that will keep you 100% safe all the time.
I am just learning lead climbing and falling still scares me, so I grab my figure 8 knot instead when I feel like I need to grab something. Eventually I would like to get into the habit of not touching anything but I think it's okay to grab your knot.
It's recommended to grab the rope after impact but not before. Read This from the wiki on lead climbing: "While these injuries happen, the authors imply they did not happen often. However, someone who climbs 3-4 days a week might take 1000 lead falls a year.[5] With that in mind, Schöffl and Küpper suggest climbers should fall with their hands up and slightly forward and with feet down and slightly forward as well. They explain that this method of falling would allow the climber to make contact with the wall with limbs that can absorb force, rather than with other less-absorbent parts of the body. After impact, Schöffl and Küpper instruct the climber to grab the rope (it is completely stretched out and unable to cause injury) in order to refrain from tipping upside down.[5] This method of falling will eliminate injuries caused by prematurely grabbing the rope or other pieces of protection, as well as virtually eliminating neck injuries."
@@ducksalotful
I haven't tried rope climbing, but I believe this is something valuable to read, thanks for the educational comment!
(I do parkour BTW)
At 2:45 the bolt twists💀
An anchor rotating slightly under load allows it to take the load in the strongest direction. Just like a carabiner being gate loaded, their strength is significantly reduced in side loading. The actual bolt is not twisting and it's being loaded entirely in shear. Even a 3/8 or 10mm wedge bolt, once set, will require 9-10kN (2,000lb) away from the wall to pull it out or 20-24kN (5,000lb) downward force to shear it off. The beener (and your rope and your spine) will snap first.
That metal doesn't look strong at all. That's crazy.
@@b9y that’s because you don’t know what you’re looking at.
Very clear and helpful. Thanks!
"Unless you see a ledge don't push off" The guy in this video pushed off or fell backwards a slightly rather than just limply falling straight down the wall where he could have gotten banged up. For low angle friction climbing on slabs you might just want to slide down on your feet hoping they will catch........
Falling on a non-vertical wall? Run backward or try to jump so that the rope slows you down before your feet hit?
NEVER run backwards, it will most likely result in your feet slipping and likely causing you to impact the wall with your face. Sometimes, on a non-vertical wall, it does make sense to push off the wall with your hands so you don't hit a ledge below you. Great question, by the way.
Just relax and let it happen
Where is this climb??
Washington State, of fucking course.
Exit 38, nevermind wall
YOU GOT ME?
It's funny how a bunch climbing gym educated "dudes" and "bros" are leaving comments critical of this video.
💪
He kept his feet on and fell backwards.. not ideal, belayer could have given a softer catch too. Obviously helmet
just in a REI store for the first time last week.......that will be my last visit........
Why is that?
..$#!+, *TAKE* _fuuuuuu_
The vocal-fry narration is tough to listen to
There are waaaaay worse vocal frys around though
interesting. I'd never heard of vocal fry. Just watched a video on it and now will forever notice it when listening to people speak 😂