A Post Hole Digger-One of the Top 5 "Must Have's" for the Tractor Owner
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- čas přidán 16. 09. 2020
- If you have a tractor, one of the attachments I'd recommend purchasing, especially if you're in a rocky area like I am, is a post hole digger, also called a "post auger" or just "auger". I use mine a lot for fence repair, planting trees and burying dead animals. It's hard to dig a hole by hand where I live so having a three point PTO driven post hole digger is a real labor saver.
I grew up on an orchard and if you're having to plant a lot of trees, this is the tool to own. My father and I had a mild disagreement about whether to buy a post hole digger or not. He always dug all the tree holes by hand because he felt it was easier for the roots to expand when planted that way. One year he had a medical situation and we had 144 trees that needed to be planted. I went and bought a post hole digger (the one in the video) and from that point forward, every tree planted was done using that attachment. It is truly one of my favorite implements.
If you're buying a post hole digger, there are a few options to think about. The first thing you'll want to decide is how large an auger to get and I recommend getting more than one. Most common, at least in my area, is a 12" auger, I own both that size and a 9" auger for smaller jobs. A 12" auger is great for planting a tree, most bare rooted or "balled and burlapped" trees require a big hole. If building fence, consider a 9" auger. Pipe fences may only require a 6" auger. You want the auger to be only slightly bigger than the post so there's less filling in and compacting.
A very handy option is a positioning rod. As the auger is dropped to the ground, the tip moves backwards, around the radius of the three point. It makes it real hard to get the tip right where you want it. A positioning rod goes from the top of the gearbox to the tractor seat and allows you to pinpoint where the auger tip goes in the ground.
Another option is hydraulic down pressure. A lot of folks don't realize it, but your three point has hydraulic lift, but all that pushes it down is gravity (except on a very few older IH tractors). In tough digging, the auger could just turn on top of the ground and hydraulic down pressure may help get it started and help you successfully dig the hole. Hydraulic down pressure does require remote hydraulic connections on the back of the tractor, something many compact tractor owners don't have.
The only maintenance to a PHD is to check the gearbox oil and grease the PTO. If you buy an older post hole digger and it won't go in the ground, it may be a dull point or tip. Most of those are replaceable, slap a replacement tip in it and it may dig like a new machine.
If you have a sub compact tractor, make sure you check how wide the three point arms open and how high it will lift before buying a standard post auger. Most of the sub compacts require a special post hole digger with a narrower frame with a shorter auger to work properly.
If you'd like a good intermediate post hole digger with positioning rod standard, check out the Worksaver Model 500 on my website here: asktractormike.com/product/wo.... For sub compact owners the Worksaver Model 300 is a great choice here: asktractormike.com/product/wo....
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Based on my level of bonding with my dogs, I always dig the hole by hand. I find it therapeutic.
Fair enough. Everyone greives differently.
Yep and crying while doing it.
Over the years I’ve dug a lot of holes. One time my wife brought home a pregnant coon hound and we had the six babies. We planned to adopt them out but when people called in response to the ad, my wife questioned them to death, nobody ever called back, and we kept them all. Cancer, old age (14 years) other problems took them all. I was honored to bury them, best time to say goodbye, we loved them all so much.
I have backhoes an still dig the grave by hand like you said Raymo853 itnis theraputic
I've always cried while doing it
PLEASE provide a post hole digger plan that we can build from common materials. You will be our newest hero!
I like being a hero! Here ya go: czcams.com/video/HKnR0-ELMA4/video.html.
Watching the augers pull those rocks out was like looking at my house in PA.
The post hole diggers that attach to the front end loaders and use the 3rd function hydraulics (like the kind that are used on skid steers) are a lot more useful than their PTO connected cousins for few main reasons. First, they can spin the auger in reverse because of the hydraulic flow which is helpful if you hit something in the ground and need to get it unstuck. Second, your FEL can put downward pressure on the auger while it's drilling. Third, you sitting in the seat of the tractor looking forward as normal compared to having to be turned around 180 degrees so the comfort while using is much higher. The recommendation is that PHD on the FEL be an offset mount type so that it makes seeing where and what you're digging into much easier than it would if mounted in the center on the FEL in front of the tractor's engine. The only downside is that don't spin as fast as a PTO mounted one but considering all the benefits of the FEL mounted one (and safety concerns of the PTO style) it's a very reasonable trade off. If you want all the above benefits and want high speed rotation on the auger then use a skid steer and a high flow model since skid steers have multiples more hydraulic flow than a tractor.
Try a front-end loader mounted digger with hydraulic drive. Once you try it you will not go back to 3PH. Mine's a Worksaver unit. Easy to scoop up and attach to bucket. Very precise control of speed and easily reversed. Safer as its further away from you. Use the weight of tractor as down pressure. Look straight ahead - no sore neck. On my first task of 150 fence posts, I borrowed one from my cousin. Then waited another two years til I bought my own, as it took that long to get my head around how such a small machine can be so expensive. I've probably done 700 fence posts since I got it.
An 18 inch auger is great to create saucer after cutting a hole for the tree.
Mike Me again LOL when you un hook your post hole digger put a pallet on the ground, back up with the auger low enough to catch on the edge of the pallet and fold back under the frame you have to drop it slowly as you back. It will lay on the pallet and you drop the arms onto the pallet un hook and everything will sit there quite nice.
You must make a video of it. I'm sure it will be popular. Well I'll watch it anyway!
Great info Mike thanks again
I love my post whole digger. I can drill a 12" diameter hole 3' down in less than a minute! What a time saver. Saves my back for sure!
I have one I bought to put up my fence. I don't use it much anymore so I disassembled it to store it in the corner of shed. They are as you say cumbersome. Watch your fingers when handling.
Thanks for the learnin mike.
6:22 All you need to know when dealing with an auger. Treat them with respect.
Now you just made me want a post hole digger too, and I don't even have any holes to dig.
That guy wasn't lucky he was blessed by God.
God bless you all!
My 2 cents... it's worth making sure you get a 2 flute auger, rather than a 1 flute one. Definitely runs a lot more smoothly.
Will be purchasing one, every component I have purchased from you Mike has been excellent quality and great customer service ! I constantly tell folks about your channel & store. Thanks for all the great videos, really helpful for a new farm and tractor owner.
Great tips Mike, better to be lucky than good! Aloha!
Excellent advice Mike. When ground conditions are not too dry they work well. They are very difficult to install. I made stand for mine, but now may hang mine from a tree.
👍 thanks for the tips. Got one off of Craigslist and like everything else I own have to rebuild it before I can use it.
Thanks Mike! Always great advise and content, think I'll pass on getting a PHD for now, don't make that many round holes any more but if in the future, will review this vid to "freshen up"
30 years ago I bought a Danuser G2040 setup with a 10” and a 16” auger bit. Added extensions to dig about 8” deeper. I used it to build 3 buildings, put up a lot of split rail fence, plant thousands of trees, and bury our faithful pets using the 2-4 hole method. It rests chained to a corner post of a building that it built. It still looks and works like new. Hopefully in another 20 years I will get my money’s worth out of it.
BE ULTRA CAREFUL as Mike said. A guy in the local area was trying to make one dig and his baggy sweatshirt sleeve got caught in the auger flighting and it twisted off his arm.
Be careful to not let it get away from the 3 point lift or it will screw itself into the ground.
If it is not digging properly it may need new teeth of better teeth. Serrated teeth are necessary where I live to break through shale rocks. The teeth catch edges of rock and break through.
I have a front hudraulic post hole digger, it work great
Thanks for the warning. I use the front end loader for burying animals.
Thanks for sharing. last week I watched your vid on quick hitch, I own the frame type never really been pleased with it. so I decided to try the Pats system, ordered from your store was pleased that you kept me in formed with the order.also was pleased to find out they are manurfacterd less than 50 miles from my home.time will tell I will like the Pats hitch, looks like a nice piece look forward with dealing with you in the future.Thanks Greg Embrey Beaver Dam ky.
Don’t have one for my 1025r yet but I do have backhoe for it love it use it a lot more than I thought I would
We just old metal drums cut down to about 2 feet for putting shovels and such in. Fill it with sand and dump old motor oil in there. keeps everything oiled and easy to store everything. Wonder if you could take a full 55 gallon drum, fill it with sand/oil mix and stand the hole digger up in that by drilling down into it. no rust and up right? just a thought.
An auger literally beat an older fellow to pieces where I live. He was probably trying to line it up to start the hole and his clothes got caught in it. It kept on going until the person that went to look for him when he didn't show up for lunch found him and shut it down. No telling how many times he had done it that way before, but the one was too much.
Good tips.
Mike there are some videos out there that show the hazards of spinning shafts and augers that are great to watch. It only takes a split second to be caught in one
I use two tractors for attaching a post hole digger. The tractor it's going to be mounted on and the tractor with pallet forks and a strap to lift it. Once it's attached, just leave it on that tractor.
A story about a man who was not as lucky.I live in rural East Texas and probably 25is years ago there was a man who had bought some land and was working on fence with his post hole digger. He got tangled up in his post hole digger and was decapitated. Supposedly his body was spinning around on the auger when the sheriff's dept showed up. Terrible but it goes to show how dangerous those can be.
I built a stand from one of your earlier vids. I clip 2x4's inside if I have the 9" auger on, take the 2x4's out for the 12" - works great. I also welded a couple o' channels on the side, easy to move with the QA forks. Next to the auger a stand is a MUST! Great vids Mike - thank you! Be especially careful not to use to long attachment bolts on the auger to the shaft, they will snag anything (i.e. limbs, clothing, hair, etc.).
I really appreciated this video! I recently purchased a once functioning apple tree farm but it fell into disrepair and neglect. I’m in the process of building her back to her former glory. All the trees got fire blight and died. Weeds were up to my waist! It’s been quite the journey but my New Holland tractor has made it quite easier!! I not only need the post hole diggers to plant new trees, I’m having to fix a break in the irrigation line and I don’t have a backhoe attachment so need to use the post hole digger. Great advice and tips thanks for your very clear cut instructions and tips!!
Post hole diggers are great
And you can take the gearbox off, put on a weight and use it to push down T-posts.
Pull pins and take the thing apart.
Not sure why they usually have a cotter key on both sides of the gear box pin instead of the easy to remove and replace pins.
Its so much easier to deal with one piece at a time.
You weren't kidding about all the rocks Mike. I am fortunate up here in N.E. Iowa to not have many rocks to deal with. We have a lot of yellow clay and it gets pretty hard over the summer.
Agree on the usefulness of this implement and loved the story on your dad..... My only problem with them (other than the hook up you mentioned) is that down pressure. The hydraulic piston is nice, but I wonder why they cannot have slots on the top that allows for a second person to insert a long rod to add down pressure. I have seen this rigged up, but it would be easy for the manufacturer to add this. Not expensive, either. Thanks
I've used one a few times. It actually belongs to a good friend of mine. We built a stand for it with a couple of old 4x4 fence posts and a couple of 2x6 boards. Hooking up is not nearly as bad as it was prior to building that. One thing to note relating to one of your previous videos, it is not compatible with many of the "quick attach" systems available. It does work fine for my application (Ford 3600 tractor with a Pat's EZ Change hitch).
Not "lazy", more like efficient.
a cheap Engine host/crane makes a good stand for the post hole auger
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole or digging a hole is to know what's below the surface.
As a lad we never had one. Got one later. A neighbor borrowed ours and did indeed got his leg in the auger. Really messed his leg up bad. They can be dangerous. Thanks for the video. The best option out there for what they do IMHO.
You're dad gummed right about rocks in your area, you could see them coming out of the ground when you dug that hole.
They make them to go on the loader, witch I think it the best. That is on my list of purchases in the future. Solves 2 of the problems you speak off, down pressure and easy to hook/unhook.
New to your channel thanks for sharing just subbed 👍
I'd love to get one but it would have to be a roto hammer to get through the rocks in my part of the Ozarks!
I asked at my equipment supplier, and they can rig my quick change loader arms to accept an auger. It'll be expensive initially, but it'll save a lot of time and hassle, and pay for itself pretty quickly on a fencing project and my chestnut grove.
Mike I sell a very useful auger mounted stump grinder as a 3rd useful attachment for an auger - does need hiflow
Good points about safety. Avoid any loose fitting clothes, tuck in boot laces, and leave the hoodies for ball games. How about a video on how to avoid getting hurt with various applications.
I bought a good used one. First time I used it I twisted the top off the auger. Next time I twisted the bottom until the teeth faced backwards. Then I bought a heavy duty auger and replaced the grade 8 bolt with the correct shear bolt. Problem solved.
I like when mine catches a rock and screws itself into the ground and I have to unwind it with a pipe wrench. But it still beats digging by hand. And I thought jumping on the three point arms to help it drill was something I read in the manual.
When I was a kid we had a Massey Ferguson with ground speed PTO. We had the auger screw itself in the ground, ended up jacking one back wheel off the ground with the high-lift jack, put the tractor in ground speed PTO, put the tractor in reverse, and let out on the clutch. Backed it right out.
Yup! Grew up on a dairy farm and Dad didn't buy one until I was headed to college!
Funny how that works
He didn't need one until you went to college.
It would seem fairly trivial to have the gearbox be capable of reversing the rotation in order to be able to back out of rocky ground. (Not "on the go", of course, but in a "stop the engine, get off the tractor, engage the reverser on the gearbox, then get back on the tractor, restart, and continue" fashion.) Yes, it would probably add a couple of hundred bucks to the cost of the gearbox, but it could definitely save a lot headaches for those with rocky soil.
The best thing I did was to trade the cotter for a lynch pin on the gearbox pin. Then you handle the gearbox separately from the frame. Much easier without the weight of the gearbox fighting you.
Based on my experience, augers are a unitaskers. If it gets stuck, your screwed. Save a little more, buy a backhoe, you can do anything.
please tell me where there is a decent stand for these things. One with wheels would be great!!
I have an 2003 Speeco PTO post hole digger that has been laying in the field for years. Trying to get it greased up and going again. The driveline/driveshaft has one solid black plastic guard/shield instead of two telescoping ones like my bushhog . Do you think that this is even meant to slide apart(male/female sleeves)? I can get to the metal sleeves to oil them as there is no separation in the shield like every driveshaft I've seen, just one solid piece of plastic.
Haven't I seen this one before?
What do you think of a quick attach post hole digger that attaches to the front loader?
Same question, I have seen those on a skid-steer and had the same thought. It would have downward pressure too.
LOL Mike I like your vids, but now I have a question, It a math question, If it takes 2 holes to plant a large dog how many holes for a large horse??
Ha, Jim, that's when I call my buddy Doug with the backhoe and give him about $350.
Hydraulic posthole diggers mounted on SSQA. Then you can use the downforce from the FEL, and it's reversible is you get hung under roots or large rocks. Also easier to mount, store, transport. But be ready to pay a pretty penny for them, though.
Yea ive been looking at those man they cost a very pretty penny. The ssqa post drivers are ridiculously expensive
@@mesanders1113 I've got a old post hole digger and a couple of pretty big surplus hydraulic motors. I've been thinking of trying to mount a hydraulic motor onto the gearbox and making a front mount for it. Don't get any cheaper than that.
Thanks, Mike. This is one of the first implements I have intended for a MF 65. One of these will be handy for everything from replacing fence post to building a new barn. Now I just need to find a decent MF 65... I hate my life.
Having a problem finding a post hole digger for a International Cub Cadet 184 . I'm new to this ; so I may be missing something here .
I have a Kubota 3301. Can I get the pto driven auger to dig without getting off my seat?
My god man - how many dog are you burying! : )
Would a posthole auger work on my ‘53 Allis-Chalmers WD? The WD does have a 3-point hitch conversion kit, which allows the use of typical 3-point hitch implements. Thank you in advance for you reply.
I don't know for sure but I think if it has the standard three-point adaptor (versus the old snap coupler system) it would. If you buy one, make a condition of the sale that it has to fit your tractor and you bring it back if it doesn't. The dealer isn't out anything if you take it home and can't get it connected you bring it back unused for a full refund. Be careful, though. They're hard to load and unload and to move around.
😊👍
Can u make a video with tips on how not to get the auger stuck in the ground? lol .I've done it many times and have to dig it out. My tractor is not able to pull it out and it s a 35 hp tractor. By the time I see that the auger is getting "sucked" into the ground its too late for me to shut off the pto and its stuck. I do have the 3 pt set to slow for letting it down but sometimes its not good enough to keep the auger from corkscrewing in too deep. Thanks
Humberto, you must be in an area with some kind of gumbo/clay soil. I'd love to do that video but with the soil conditions here it's nearly impossible to stick a post hole digger in the ground because of the thousands of rocks right below the surface. There's just not enough soil there to stop the auger. The big problem where I live is having to replace a shear pin every ten minutes because you hit a boulder under the ground that didn't move.
@@TractorMike Yup. I'm in South Texas. I have a mix of sandy loam and clay right under that. After some research I got some idea of how to proceed. I enjoy your videos. Very helpful. Thank You
I got a post hole digger with my new tractor last summer. I haven't dug any holes with it yet, but I noticed the directions for the post hole digger call for a grade 5 bolt, where as my tractor is only 20 HP at the PTO. I'm guessing I shouldn't use a grade 5 bolt, but a weaker one. *_?_*
The shear bolt it mainly to protect the digger gearbox, just keep the grade 5.
What do you recommend for soil that has a lot of roots in it it's a pain in the butt using a handheld gas auger because it gets stuck
I'd recommend a skid loader with a hydraulic post hole digger and heavy duty auger. You'll probably need down pressure to get through the roots. You can get those for tractors but I'd be careful with mounting one on a small tractor because it might kill your hydraulic pump. Compact tractors aren't really designed for that.
Mike do you think it's important to have the reverse function on a 3pt post hole digger?
It would be handy. I've never seen that option.
What they need is a hydraulic ram to give downward pressure in hard ground. I've got plans to convert mine.
No one else has mentioned this tip but when I'm done with it, i disconnect the pto then remove the gear box. After that I remove the frame. Installation is the reverse. It's much easier this way. Insert the top connection then the bottom links. After that, lift the boom with the hydraulics to just below the height of the auger. Stand the auger, lift the boom by hand and set it on top of the gear box. Insert the pin and pto and you're done. Makes it a lot easier for one person.
Mike, we live in an area that has sandy soil that is heavily compacted (re sandstone) and a heavy concentration of tree roots. It was shocking to see how fast your auger plunged into the ground. Digging 9" or 12" holes for fence posts takes about 15-30min per hole - if we can even get it to go to depth. I have tried soaking the holes to soften the soil, but nothing really seems to work. Do you have any tips to make my auger dig faster and/or more efficiently?
First, make sure the auger bit (the tip of the auger) is sharp. If it's not, it's tough to get it in the ground regardless of soil conditions. Outside of that, I'm not much help. I've never lived in conditions like what you describe. If you can find a farmer in your area and pick their brain, they'll know. Anyone who has a place with a lot of fenceposts/ corner posts on it should know what will work. Good luck!
@@TractorMike I fixed it. Bought a new auger bit from Atwoods. It has a giant screw tip on the business end. Now the bit gets pulled into the ground so fast it makes my tractor grunt.
And now for the other 4???
What about dead goats?
I have buried a few, used front end loader to dig hole as I don't have backhoe
"I cannot get to the metal sleeves"
What is the best way to ask you a direct question?
E-mail is mike@asktractormike.com.
👍🏽🙏👌🏽
Have owned two on two different tractors. Out west we have soils that can be as hard as concrete. Lots of clay, bentonite, etc. While a post hole auger is better the nothing, its flat useless in these soils. I have tried multiple tip styles, etc made no difference. The auger just spins comically on the surface. I have also screwed one in the ground so bad it took welding a 10' rod to the shaft as a lever to back it out. Too many shear bolts to speak of. If I had to guess I have angered maybe 140 holes over the years for fence, gate, posts etc. Maybe 40 of those went off without complications.
I have sold my post hole augers and plan to buy a loader mounted hydraulic version.
I couldn't disagree with you more. Unless you have optimal soil types, downforce, or a weighted version they are useless. Add to that the storage challeges, safety, etc.
I would rather rent a skid steer with a auger before I consider ever using a PTO driven model again.
One thing I think your right about is the auger size. A 9" and 12" are about perfect in most cases.
If your soil is that hard get you some rock bits to replace the auger cutting edges. I did that one time and you had to hold it back to keep it from screwing into the ground.
Yes it is a must have item but they are evil. Hard to hook up and if it screws itself into the ground then you have trouble getting it out.
i was wondering myself about jacks / stands to prevent / assist with this very issue
An 18" auger isused for f ot
18" auger.is used to put poles in for buildings
I've got an 18 inch auger for mine and I dont use it for putting up buildings. I use it for setting corners and braces when build fence. I use hedge posts , that's why the hole is so big. Typically I try to get a 15 inch post for the hole.
Don’t buy one unless you know your soil and sub soil will let it work properly. Augurs work great with a machine that can apply down pressure or in sandy or loamy soil.
Is there post hole diggers that are quick hitch?
I've never seen one for the back of the tractor...there are hydraulic-drive PHD's that go on the front loader quick attach. I've thought about getting one myself, I'm a little concerned with the wear on the hydraulic pump, but I don't use them that much so it would probably be fine.
Wouldn’t a backhoe work for planting trees and more versatile ? Useful for many tasks ?
I owned a post hole digger for awhile,,, but don't now. for my situation, it was not really functional.
Burying dogs??
Useless tool in my hard clay soil w/o down pressure and a really heavy tractor.
What kind of idiot gets around a moving auger? I'm guessing the same kind of person that lost arms to corn pickers 70 years ago.
I could have done without you mentioning burying dogs over and over.
Waste of money. Worst attachment