Richard, you saved me $2000. A wire came off at my timer. And I attached it to the first post on the left. It seemed like that’s where it belonged. After the pump wouldn’t start, I watched your video again, and realized it had to go to the second leg where it shares a place with the white wire. Fired right up! Bless you, buddy!
another thing that could cause the motor not to run or run poorly is the START SWITCH at the back end of the motor. You should see 2 brass arms (or more) with contact points that should be touching when the motor is off. This goes to the start winding. Once the motor starts turning fast enough, there is mechanism on the shaft that relys on centrifical force to push something, usually a plastic or bakelite piece against the arm to open the START winding circut and the motor then operates on the RUN winding. If these contacts have debris between them, the motor will likely not start and just hum. If these contacts remain stuck together once the motor is running, it will cause the START winding to stay engaged and put a negative force on the armature, causing it not to spin up to speed.
You are referring to the equipotential bonding wire, this is not the same as the grounding wire. Look up the pupose of equipotential bonding, it's more than I can explain here. The bonding wire purpose is different than the ground wire which allows the motor to run.
Just replaced seals on diverter switch due to air leak and not easily getting prime. Our pump works better than ever. Perfectly sealed no more air. BUT the switch is turning the pump on only intermittently. Have to click it and click it to start the pump. Capacitor? Or bad connection?
Fixed - replaced the capacitor last week and it worked fine. Now it stopped working again. Could the capacitor have gone bad so quickly? Or do I have bigger pronblems?
I'm fighting a breaker issue right now. The old pump was seized, so I bought a new pump. Now it's tripping the breaker. Tried several breakers, 15, 20, and a 40. Trips instantly no hum or anything.
if the motor to the timer stops working would the manual switch work regardless? My timer stopped and when I switch it on manually the pump doesnt turn on. my 240 breaker also flipped. checked breaker. still have 240 reading both at breaker box and at timer junction box. would anything malfunction with the timer cause my pool pump to not work, or does this sound like a pool pump issue?
I have seen part of the manual operation part of the timer malfunction and only send 120V instead of 240V. But yes, even if the timer gear mechanism fails, it will 99% of the time still work to turn the pump on and off. I would check at the motor itself on your wires connecting to L1 and L2 connections. Check to make sure you have 240V there and check each supply wire connecting to the motor individually. If the motor is getting the correct voltage coming into it and nothing is happening, there is an issue with the motor.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 If there is no power at the motor does that indicate a transformer problem? I have no power to or from the transformer, and my problem is I just installed a new clock that doesn't move, and switch doesn't engage the motor, like the person you answered. I have full power to the clock panel.
@@daultonruff2281 I’m not sure what you mean you have no power from a transformer, that does not supply motors, only like low voltage lights. Maybe you mean you have now power from breaker. Check each leg to see if you have 120V from breaker to timer. Then check same from timer to motor. Something is wrong in the setup currently, just not sure what right now with present info.
We need to address symptoms. I have a diagnosis problem because my switch controlled by the clock does not work. I replaced the clock, ($60) still doesn't work. Have full 220 power. switch does not start the system, but clock still doesn't run. I don't know if the motor would start if that switch isn't getting power. Is this a transformer problem? No power to the Transformer detected.
I'm not sure what you mean by a transformer. No motors here operate by a transformer sending power. Either they turn on with a manual type Intermatic brand timer or through a digital control board that has a relay that holds the wires then the control system activates the relay to send power to the motor. I think you have something going on with your timer mechanism/switch/transformer setup. To test whether or not your motor works it's easy. Run a wires straight from the breaker to your motor. 120V per wire connected to each leg on the motor, L1 and L2, and then your return wire connected to ground lug on the motor and connected appropriately in your breaker box. You assume all responsibility for the wiring since I can't see your setup. If you don't know how to work safely with electricity, call someone who does. Once you get power connected, when you turn the breaker on, the motor should come on. If it does not, and you have the motor wired correctly if it's a 240V motor, then I would assume the motor is bad. But you still may have something also messed up in the timer/switch/transformer thing as well. If things are still messed up, then call a local pool professional or an electrician. Hope this helps.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Thanks for your reply. I spent $500 for a new motor. Can't repair a single speed motor in California. I haven't installed it because it's raining. I'll get there. I guess $500 is better than a thousand.
hi there… i have a brand new pump that won’t turn back on. It was running really hot before this happened. I can hear a click but that’s it. Pump is cool now - been off for hours. Is it likely a timer connection - attempted to turn on manually - that’s when i hear the click. Could the interior shaft already be corroded?
Mine has 240 going to the motor. This is the second brand new motor that I’ve put on, I thought the first motor may have been bad. Neither motor did anything. Any thoughts?
If it's grounded properly, I have no other thoughts than it's a bad motor. Make sure motor selector (on some motors but not all) is selected on the the voltage you are sending to it.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 thanks! Somehow, the hot wire between the switch and the motor broke in two. It was surrounded by insulation so I couldn’t see it. I just decided to check it. I assume the current was flowing through the motor and made it read hot.
Richard, you saved me $2000. A wire came off at my timer. And I attached it to the first post on the left. It seemed like that’s where it belonged. After the pump wouldn’t start, I watched your video again, and realized it had to go to the second leg where it shares a place with the white wire. Fired right up! Bless you, buddy!
Great! Way to go and glad I could help!!!
This saved me! I just changed 2 capacitors turns out the shaft is tuck. I just turned it to move it and it worked! Thank u!
Sounds great, glad that worked!!!
another thing that could cause the motor not to run or run poorly is the START SWITCH at the back end of the motor. You should see 2 brass arms (or more) with contact points that should be touching when the motor is off. This goes to the start winding. Once the motor starts turning fast enough, there is mechanism on the shaft that relys on centrifical force to push something, usually a plastic or bakelite piece against the arm to open the START winding circut and the motor then operates on the RUN winding. If these contacts have debris between them, the motor will likely not start and just hum. If these contacts remain stuck together once the motor is running, it will cause the START winding to stay engaged and put a negative force on the armature, causing it not to spin up to speed.
Good stuff, thanks for explaining.
Awesome video! I am headed out to see if these tips will save my 10 yr old motor.
Good luck!
Thank you! Very helpful!!
You're welcome!
Will that thick stiff ground wire that clips to the back of the motor affect the pool pump as well? Or is it just for lightning ⚡ storms?
You are referring to the equipotential bonding wire, this is not the same as the grounding wire. Look up the pupose of equipotential bonding, it's more than I can explain here. The bonding wire purpose is different than the ground wire which allows the motor to run.
Just replaced seals on diverter switch due to air leak and not easily getting prime. Our pump works better than ever. Perfectly sealed no more air. BUT the switch is turning the pump on only intermittently. Have to click it and click it to start the pump. Capacitor? Or bad connection?
Sounds like a problem with the connection or switch.
If you use a clamp on annmeter around the main power conduit would you see if the motor is under strain?
Good question, I'm not sure. I will let an electrician answer that one.
Fixed - replaced the capacitor last week and it worked fine. Now it stopped working again. Could the capacitor have gone bad so quickly? Or do I have bigger pronblems?
Try capacitor again, if not capacitor then it's probably the motor.
I'm fighting a breaker issue right now. The old pump was seized, so I bought a new pump. Now it's tripping the breaker. Tried several breakers, 15, 20, and a 40. Trips instantly no hum or anything.
You may need to contact an electrician.
if the motor to the timer stops working would the manual switch work regardless? My timer stopped and when I switch it on manually the pump doesnt turn on. my 240 breaker also flipped. checked breaker. still have 240 reading both at breaker box and at timer junction box. would anything malfunction with the timer cause my pool pump to not work, or does this sound like a pool pump issue?
I have seen part of the manual operation part of the timer malfunction and only send 120V instead of 240V. But yes, even if the timer gear mechanism fails, it will 99% of the time still work to turn the pump on and off. I would check at the motor itself on your wires connecting to L1 and L2 connections. Check to make sure you have 240V there and check each supply wire connecting to the motor individually. If the motor is getting the correct voltage coming into it and nothing is happening, there is an issue with the motor.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 If there is no power at the motor does that indicate a transformer problem? I have no power to or from the transformer, and my problem is I just installed a new clock that doesn't move, and switch doesn't engage the motor, like the person you answered. I have full power to the clock panel.
@@daultonruff2281 I’m not sure what you mean you have no power from a transformer, that does not supply motors, only like low voltage lights. Maybe you mean you have now power from breaker. Check each leg to see if you have 120V from breaker to timer. Then check same from timer to motor. Something is wrong in the setup currently, just not sure what right now with present info.
We need to address symptoms. I have a diagnosis problem because my switch controlled by the clock does not work. I replaced the clock, ($60) still doesn't work. Have full 220 power. switch does not start the system, but clock still doesn't run. I don't know if the motor would start if that switch isn't getting power. Is this a transformer problem? No power to the Transformer detected.
I'm not sure what you mean by a transformer. No motors here operate by a transformer sending power. Either they turn on with a manual type Intermatic brand timer or through a digital control board that has a relay that holds the wires then the control system activates the relay to send power to the motor. I think you have something going on with your timer mechanism/switch/transformer setup. To test whether or not your motor works it's easy. Run a wires straight from the breaker to your motor. 120V per wire connected to each leg on the motor, L1 and L2, and then your return wire connected to ground lug on the motor and connected appropriately in your breaker box. You assume all responsibility for the wiring since I can't see your setup. If you don't know how to work safely with electricity, call someone who does. Once you get power connected, when you turn the breaker on, the motor should come on. If it does not, and you have the motor wired correctly if it's a 240V motor, then I would assume the motor is bad. But you still may have something also messed up in the timer/switch/transformer thing as well. If things are still messed up, then call a local pool professional or an electrician. Hope this helps.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Thanks for your reply. I spent $500 for a new motor. Can't repair a single speed motor in California. I haven't installed it because it's raining. I'll get there. I guess $500 is better than a thousand.
hi there… i have a brand new pump that won’t turn back on. It was running really hot before this happened. I can hear a click but that’s it. Pump is cool now - been off for hours. Is it likely a timer connection - attempted to turn on manually - that’s when i hear the click. Could the interior shaft already be corroded?
Appreciate any suggestion. It’s literally 6 months old. Filter basket inside cleaned regularly from leaves and debris. ???
I also checked and the shaft moves freely. Any ideas? It hums now instead of just clicks. ??
Where is the video you mentioned on testing the pool
pump capacitor? I don't see it on your channel. Thanks.
Never mind; I found it on youtube. czcams.com/video/2H7s_43WQPw/video.html
Check again.
Am I supposed to be reading 240 between both hots?
Generally, but most importantly check L1 to ground for 120V, then check L2 to ground for 120V.
My pool is not turning on at all. The timer works but when I do the manual switch it doesn’t turn on.
Follow the steps in the video to troubleshoot.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 do you think it could be an electrical issue? The motor was running perfect 2 days ago.
@@nicka7676 Possibly.
This weekend my pump started tripping the breaker. The motor is very hot to the touch. The pump is about 19 years old.
It's probably time to upgrade.
Brand new sand pump… motor doesn’t come on…any suggestions?
Return it for another.
My pump wont turn on. I sprayed the freeze coils with air and the pump cuts on. But immediately shuts back off after the coils defrost
You probably need to replace the motor.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 not what we want to hear right now lol thank you
@@rubio2001I understand.
Mine has 240 going to the motor. This is the second brand new motor that I’ve put on, I thought the first motor may have been bad. Neither motor did anything. Any thoughts?
If it's grounded properly, I have no other thoughts than it's a bad motor. Make sure motor selector (on some motors but not all) is selected on the the voltage you are sending to it.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 thanks! Somehow, the hot wire between the switch and the motor broke in two. It was surrounded by insulation so I couldn’t see it. I just decided to check it. I assume the current was flowing through the motor and made it read hot.
@@jaredbarwick661 Wow, that's kind of rare to have that happen.
@@jaredbarwick661 Wow!
My timer is not working
Ok, you can replace the timer internals.
You make nerves pointing witch Extention to the lines 😅
Ha Ha. Well I say don't mess with this stuff unless you can do it safely.