Good except it's actually helpful to see you remove the first bearing rather than cut away during footage of the "heavy lifting." It's honestly really great to get a sense what physical stress is needed and what, if any, challenges there can be with realignment etc.
Very impressive presentation. One thing that I do when installing bearings is to always have the shaft vertical, neverseeze or oil the shaft and always have the proper bearing drive device and hammer ready in case the bearing doesn't just drop in place. To prevent metal to metal locking, finish install while hot.
@@redasharawy9 Not always practical for vertical install on larger rotors. Referring to 6301 to 6320 along with comparable 6200 series brgs sizes. We use tube style drivers whenever available.
Very impressive indeed. I had a hard time figuring out how theyd fit the bearings on a motor I got. Using a special Bearing remover . Afterward a tight fit, even heating up the bearing to make the hole bigger. its amazing. I am working on a shaft here and I was all wrong, I was going to use a threaded axel and fasten the bearings with nuts. Im going tight fit from now on !
Compliments and great job ! I was also looking for the comments and Is hard to believe that someone is here to comment about very accurate details, the professional guys don't need to watch CZcams video to replace the bearings so is pointless anyway ! This videos are made for the people that need a basic way way to fix there problems not to learn a job! Anyway compliments
I hesitated to use my wheel puller but at this hour I wasn’t going to wait for hf to open to buy a bearing puller like you use, but my bearings are shot anyways thanks for this video very informative and well done
Why was the paint that you removed on the shaft? Identification for manufacturing purposes? I agree with removing the armature to replace bearings. I always feel better pressing them on when resistance exists.You did a nice job on this video. It is so clear and shows detail very well.
Thanks for the video =). Very systematic and efficient methodology, and very high quality content. Out of interest, how many hours did it take you to make the video?
I don't see any problem pushing against the inner ring only. The outer ring is not in contact with anything, so it will only meet air on its way on the shaft.
@AFW5627hrm, I can't say I love the mess but I suppose I'm not a "mechie". My trade lies elsewhere. But as a real man I refuse to be defeated by a broken machine and love successfully solving the problen and repairing something most people would consider worthy only of trashing. The economics of this doesn't weigh up given the time it takes me compared to a professional and what I could earn in that time in my own skill set. But I'd be embarrassed paying another to do something I can do for myself. Economics be damned. Paying another man to mow your lawn is how you end up having your grass cut by a backdoorman when your back is turned.
Well done. I really appreciate that. But I have some question on it. How do you call the tools you use to remove the bearing ? And why didn't use the tools to remove both bearing? Thanks
Thanks for the questions. On one end I used a bearing splitter or puller with a threaded rod, on the other end I used the splitter with a hydraulic power pack. I used different tools to show different ways of removing the bearings.
Agreed Capitol, doing it with the rotor in the stator could damage the stator teeth and wedges, you'd be better off putting it in a similar radius PVC pipe outside the motor to tap that bearing on
Hey I have several Hoover WindTunnel vacuum motors that need new bearings, the only issue is that I don’t wanna damage the new bearings by using a hammer and socket wrench
Try warming up the bearings in an oven for a little bit to about 220 F or about 100 C. Wear heat resistant gloves and put them on the cold shaft. Don't put the whole motor in the oven.
Thanks for your support. The tool we use came from SKF and it is quite expensive if you only use it once. It is a fairly common tool used in automotive and industrial applications and may be available to rent from an automotive parts store or other equipment rental place. I have also made my own for odd jobs here and there.
@@capitolrefrigerationheatin7501thanks, exactly the info I didn't know I needed. I'll be trying this, hopefully it works for me. Such a cheap part but critical and so prone to failure leading to catastrophic failure of device.
What name the name of that tools in 18:43? you videos really nice, help me to explain about the componet of the part inside motor to my manager easily . Thanks you very much, Sir.
I believe it is a snap-on puller, but pullers like this can be found at automotive tool suppliers and other tool stores. Look for a bearing spliter or 2 or 3 jaw puller.
Why do they come glued to the shaft??? I am trying to repair the clutch contacts of a motor and the bearing is preventing me to remove the part that needs to be scrapped with sand paper
I would consider the type of "dirt" you are trying to clean. If it is oily or greasy my experience is brake clean, degreaser or other industrial cleaner works well. If it is just dusty than blowing it off with compressed air works well.
I think it was easier take the rotor out of the armature and then install the bearings carefully. Second the bearing you installed with your hands is a big issue for sure. It needs to grip or it will make a mess if not happened already.
My electric motor needs bearings replacement and the maintenance store issued one ball bearing and one cylindrical roller bearing. Which end of the motor would I fit each of these bearings . And why ? Can I get some help please
no I mean the brand name it says something like "Out-S....." but i cant read the rest. What does that can say, it works so well. I want to try it. thanks.
just 1 question ,,what side of a motor is front of the motor!, pulley side or fan side ?,,,,99.9999999999999999999999999999% of the people given me different answers.
I think there are better ways of describing one of the sides of a motor. Most professionals I have spoken with about motors refer to the inboard or outboard side. Inboard refers to the shaft/ coupling side. If I had to say which side is the "front", I think it would be the shaft side, but that is my opinion only.
This video is full of mistakes!1. The only times bearing orientation matters is when the two sides have dissimilar shields or one side is open, or when the bearing has a flange or an offset. 2. The diameter of that shaft is .1816?? Not likely. 3. Modern bearings are metric sizes.4. You NEVER drive a bearing on a shaft with a tool that is in contact with the outer race. That bearing is ruined!You're making other millwrights (as I am) look bad with dumb crap like this-
Sorry you feel so negatively about this video. 1.To respond to your concerns, I mention the orientation of the bearing in this case to make the code easy to read if the bearing needs to be replaced. A deep groove ball bearing has no correct orientation as you said. 2. Yes I did make a mistake on the dimension of the bearing/ shaft. It should read 1.1816". I will make a note of that in the description. 3. Most bearings are produced to metric sizes as you said. The SKF charts I used to check the fit of the bearing give measurements in inches and millimeters and being that I am in Canada, we uses both systems of measurements. The tools I used were all in inches so that is the dimensions I used. 4. The final point about the tool I used to install the bearing. The tool is manufactured by SKF (as seen at 19:34) which is one of the leading bearing manufacturers of precision bearings and the instructions say to use the tool as I have done. You are also correct that driving a bearing onto a shaft by the outer ring only, when being installed onto a shaft, would cause brinelling and damage the bearing. However, the tool I used has a feature that contacts both inner and outer rings at the same time. In this application it would be acceptable to press or drive the bearing on by pushing on the inner ring only, but in other cases where the bearing is being installed into a housing and onto a shaft at the same time it would be unacceptable to press on the inner ring only and would need to be pressed on by contacting both rings at the same time. You can clearly see the shape of the tool I used at 19:34 and that it does contact both rings at the same time. For the future, please be constructive with your comments instead of destructive and i would be happy to make corrections where needed.
Good except it's actually helpful to see you remove the first bearing rather than cut away during footage of the "heavy lifting." It's honestly really great to get a sense what physical stress is needed and what, if any, challenges there can be with realignment etc.
He cut because he definitely used an impact and said f it
Very impressive presentation.
One thing that I do when installing bearings is to
always have the shaft vertical, neverseeze or oil
the shaft and always have the proper bearing drive
device and hammer ready in case the bearing doesn't
just drop in place.
To prevent metal to metal locking, finish install while hot.
Is it the same for big size motor
@@redasharawy9 Not always practical for vertical install on larger rotors. Referring to 6301 to 6320
along with comparable 6200 series brgs sizes. We use tube style drivers whenever available.
@@revolution51 would you but me the link 🔗 for big size motor
Very impressive indeed. I had a hard time figuring out how theyd fit the bearings on a motor I got. Using a special Bearing remover . Afterward a tight fit, even heating up the bearing to make the hole bigger. its amazing. I am working on a shaft here and I was all wrong, I was going to use a threaded axel and fasten the bearings with nuts. Im going tight fit from now on !
14:31 0.1816"...? Yeah, right! Absolutely spot on!
I think it’s 1.1816”?
This is a nice demonstration. I use this when do training. Thank you
Compliments and great job !
I was also looking for the comments and Is hard to believe that someone is here to comment about very accurate details, the professional guys don't need to watch CZcams video to replace the bearings so is pointless anyway ! This videos are made for the people that need a basic way way to fix there problems not to learn a job! Anyway compliments
Thanks very much.
Great video! Good camera placement and well thought out, good time lapse for mundane parts. Thanks!
Great Video, leaned a lot from it. Keep up the good work and keeping us informed and how to do things.
I hesitated to use my wheel puller but at this hour I wasn’t going to wait for hf to open to buy a bearing puller like you use, but my bearings are shot anyways thanks for this video very informative and well done
Wow your video is too good. U explain a single detail
That was very informative. Many thanks!
You made a great video thank you for making a great video we really appreciate it of the details that you spend put it together thank you
Impressed... Very professional
Xp motor, nice touch. Well done
Thanks a lot, benefitted much from this video.
amazing, well detailed.
thank u........need more from u......
Thank you Sait great video very helpful , David
You have some fancy tools there...
Great info, thanks
Excellent sir
Cast iron fan housing, neat
Thank you for creating this video
Nice video Thanks
Why was the paint that you removed on the shaft? Identification for manufacturing purposes? I agree with removing the armature to replace bearings. I always feel better pressing them on when resistance exists.You did a nice job on this video. It is so clear and shows detail very well.
Thanks for the video =). Very systematic and efficient methodology, and very high quality content. Out of interest, how many hours did it take you to make the video?
Superb very good
Good work. You really should take the armature out and press the bearing on, otherwise hammering can damage the armature.
Can you use a drive up set to install the bearing if you don’t have a heater?
I don't see any problem pushing against the inner ring only. The outer ring is not in contact with anything, so it will only meet air on its way on the shaft.
Agreed....there is larger chance of damaging the bearing with a strike that’s not perfectly square
Excuse me, an information please, how many bearings can we find in a electric motor? For a car for example?
This is great. But in the real world this is 10 times harder when everything is dirty and rusty from being in use for years
@AFW5627hrm, I can't say I love the mess but I suppose I'm not a "mechie". My trade lies elsewhere. But as a real man I refuse to be defeated by a broken machine and love successfully solving the problen and repairing something most people would consider worthy only of trashing. The economics of this doesn't weigh up given the time it takes me compared to a professional and what I could earn in that time in my own skill set. But I'd be embarrassed paying another to do something I can do for myself. Economics be damned. Paying another man to mow your lawn is how you end up having your grass cut by a backdoorman when your back is turned.
Well done. I really appreciate that. But I have some question on it.
How do you call the tools you use to remove the bearing ?
And why didn't use the tools to remove both bearing? Thanks
Thanks for the questions.
On one end I used a bearing splitter or puller with a threaded rod, on the other end I used the splitter with a hydraulic power pack. I used different tools to show different ways of removing the bearings.
I thought if you need to tap the bearing on shaft you should remove rotor because you could damage the winding insulation if not?
I think that would be a better idea than leaving the rotor in the stator like I did. Thanks for the comment.
Agreed Capitol, doing it with the rotor in the stator could damage the stator teeth and wedges, you'd be better off putting it in a similar radius PVC pipe outside the motor to tap that bearing on
What is the name of that black tool in the drive up set for holding the bearing level for hammering in 19:18?
Drive up sleeve.
Hey I have several Hoover WindTunnel vacuum motors that need new bearings, the only issue is that I don’t wanna damage the new bearings by using a hammer and socket wrench
Try warming up the bearings in an oven for a little bit to about 220 F or about 100 C. Wear heat resistant gloves and put them on the cold shaft. Don't put the whole motor in the oven.
SAIT Millwright Where can I get heat resistance gloves?
@@tylonbarnes9678 You could try welding gloves or oven mits.
SAIT Millwright where can I get a bearing heater?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It is a great help. How do you get the special tool if you only rebuild once?
Thanks for your support. The tool we use came from SKF and it is quite expensive if you only use it once. It is a fairly common tool used in automotive and industrial applications and may be available to rent from an automotive parts store or other equipment rental place. I have also made my own for odd jobs here and there.
I use a electric cook top induction heater, only $40, then fasten a temperature probe to bearing and remove it when it reaches 220 degrees F.
@@capitolrefrigerationheatin7501thanks, exactly the info I didn't know I needed. I'll be trying this, hopefully it works for me. Such a cheap part but critical and so prone to failure leading to catastrophic failure of device.
how do you remove a bearing if it’s not on the shaft but in a housing cover?
i have seen vids on here where they put the stator in the freezer and heat the bearing. Is this alright to do?
Sure is a good way of doing things. Dry ice or liquid nitrogen are great ways to cool things down even more than a freezer.
was that red loctite on the shaft?
What name the name of that tools in 18:43? you videos really nice, help me to explain about the componet of the part inside motor to my manager easily . Thanks you very much, Sir.
Bearing Installation Sleeve Kit.
Cool
What kind of bearing puller you’re using? And where can you purchase it from?
I believe it is a snap-on puller, but pullers like this can be found at automotive tool suppliers and other tool stores. Look for a bearing spliter or 2 or 3 jaw puller.
Why do they come glued to the shaft??? I am trying to repair the clutch contacts of a motor and the bearing is preventing me to remove the part that needs to be scrapped with sand paper
Where can I buy the tool set?
Thank you.
If I might ask...? What is the best way to clean any necessary parts in the process if the motor is old and a bit dirty? Thanks in advance!
I would consider the type of "dirt" you are trying to clean. If it is oily or greasy my experience is brake clean, degreaser or other industrial cleaner works well. If it is just dusty than blowing it off with compressed air works well.
@Alexander Wardrope thanks!!!
What is the model of that bearing pusher? I can only find a set made by SKF that costs $1000...
I am not sure the model number of that kit. I do know it is also an skf kit.
Hi Where you buy The driver set?
I think we got it directly from SKF but any bearing supplier should have some variation
what is the purpose of the washer
What name the name of that paint vanish spray?
Paint remover spray.
I think it was easier take the rotor out of the armature and then install the bearings carefully. Second the bearing you installed with your hands is a big issue for sure. It needs to grip or it will make a mess if not happened already.
My electric motor needs bearings replacement and the maintenance store issued one ball bearing and one cylindrical roller bearing. Which end of the motor would I fit each of these bearings . And why ? Can I get some help please
Stamped on the name plate?
I'd love to know what model that bearing heater is! Does anyone have an idea?
I could not find the exact model but here is a link to similar models from SKF.
www.skf.com/ca/en/products/maintenance-products/bearing-heaters
what is the name of that spray? thanks
Gasket and paint stripper.
no I mean the brand name it says something like "Out-S....." but i cant read the rest. What does that can say, it works so well. I want to try it. thanks.
I think it's called out-strip. It is by Lawson products. I have had good luck with the CRC and locktite products too.
Is this motor teco motor?
Yes
why did you skip pulling off bearing?
epic
14:12 what is a stolen?
just 1 question ,,what side of a motor is front of the motor!, pulley side or fan side ?,,,,99.9999999999999999999999999999% of the people given me different answers.
I think there are better ways of describing one of the sides of a motor. Most professionals I have spoken with about motors refer to the inboard or outboard side. Inboard refers to the shaft/ coupling side. If I had to say which side is the "front", I think it would be the shaft side, but that is my opinion only.
You only want to drive o n the inner race..
The one part I wanted to see.... "Ok, got the bearing off", OFF CAMERA!?! Ugh
Teco motor
You could lay an ice pack on the shaft while your bearing is heating and give yourself an extra bit of clearance
Shbtsdn bhd &gajetsdn bhd & tuah resueo sdn bhd
This video is full of mistakes!1. The only times bearing orientation matters is when the two sides have dissimilar shields or one side is open, or when the bearing has a flange or an offset. 2. The diameter of that shaft is .1816?? Not likely. 3. Modern bearings are metric sizes.4. You NEVER drive a bearing on a shaft with a tool that is in contact with the outer race. That bearing is ruined!You're making other millwrights (as I am) look bad with dumb crap like this-
Sorry you feel so negatively about this video.
1.To respond to your concerns, I mention the orientation of the bearing in this case to make the code easy to read if the bearing needs to be replaced. A deep groove ball bearing has no correct orientation as you said.
2. Yes I did make a mistake on the dimension of the bearing/ shaft. It should read 1.1816". I will make a note of that in the description.
3. Most bearings are produced to metric sizes as you said. The SKF charts I used to check the fit of the bearing give measurements in inches and millimeters and being that I am in Canada, we uses both systems of measurements. The tools I used were all in inches so that is the dimensions I used.
4. The final point about the tool I used to install the bearing. The tool is manufactured by SKF (as seen at 19:34) which is one of the leading bearing manufacturers of precision bearings and the instructions say to use the tool as I have done. You are also correct that driving a bearing onto a shaft by the outer ring only, when being installed onto a shaft, would cause brinelling and damage the bearing. However, the tool I used has a feature that contacts both inner and outer rings at the same time. In this application it would be acceptable to press or drive the bearing on by pushing on the inner ring only, but in other cases where the bearing is being installed into a housing and onto a shaft at the same time it would be unacceptable to press on the inner ring only and would need to be pressed on by contacting both rings at the same time. You can clearly see the shape of the tool I used at 19:34 and that it does contact both rings at the same time.
For the future, please be constructive with your comments instead of destructive and i would be happy to make corrections where needed.
A bit harsh Horace; I'm a maintenance electrician and I found it very informative.
Good job sir
I look forward to seeing your video.
What's the product name of the 'driveup set'??