Parasitic drain test on a 2007 Honda Odyssey
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2020
- Parasitic drain test on a 2007 Honda Odyssey
Alternator is new
Battery keeps going dead after a few days
I charge it up and it’s fine for a while.
In this video
- test the battery voltage with multi-meter
- test alternator that it is charging battery with a multi-meter
- perform a parasitic drain test using A multi meter
- find what Circuit is causing the drain but stop short of finding that actual item.
#15 BACKUP/ACC Circuit 40A fuse under the hood
leads me to then later put back fuse and pull fuses from inside car
#7 I pulled and brought the drain from 70ma to 50ma making me think its something on the backup/acc 7.5A fuse circuit
I do know the normal power draw when at off should be less than or equal to 50ma
Post any comments on what you think it might be.
EDIT: Resolved
• Parasitic Drain - RESO...
#Honda
#Odyssey
#Parasiticdrain
Tools used:
Multimeter : www.harborfreight.com/electri...
Metric wrench set 10mm
DISCLAIMER: This video is “as is” use this information at your own risk - Jak na to + styl
Resolved
czcams.com/video/6zcf1Naqv5A/video.html
great work.
Best multimeter!
Nice.
Vice grips or a hose clamp is an easy way to get probes to connect with battery terminals. The clamp you had in the door would work too.
I have the same exact problem on my 2007. I've been through 3 batteries in 4 months. I took it into the shop and they just told me I needed a new battery- duhhhhh- didn't even look for the drain. Today I bought a battery disconnect switch at Harbor Freight and will just pop the hood every time I come home and disconnect and then twist it back in place in the morning- it's the only thing I know what to do.
The best thing to do is kind of do this test . To find out which circuit it’s on. To find the offending devices(s)
In my case it was a aftermarket kit installed in back of radio by my brother In law . It worked for years no problem then I had this happen.
I do know that on some Acura TL’s the home link can cause a drain problem. But they found that by doing a parasite drain test. Also lookup a wiring diagram on line for what fuses control power to what devices.
same one I have. back ACC circuit (accessory) I used to think it was A/C compression
lol
You should continue checking the fuse box's inside the car, you will hit the Number 7 (ACC) fuse 7.5 AMPS next to driver. It control the sliding doors and other accessories
@@octiman2997 I was the sliding door driver side. Had it completely taken apart- for the SECOND time and reconnected. So far so good.
did your radio lose it's memory and not start? did your onboard computer system have to Relearn all it's settings? I ask this because if I disconnect my battery it causes those two things to lose charge...
Yes I think it did. And hand to enter in the Honda radio and dvd codes . But I honestly cannot remember.
Not long after this video was taken maybe a month or two. Battery was replaced.
Thanks for watching my video
When you disconnect the battery in a 2007 Odyssey, your radio locks. It's an anti theft measure. You need to ente a code to use it.
My Odyssey is draining 3.4Amps. I think the car's normal drain for the immobiliser/ alarm and computer is 0.07Amps or 70mAmps, so i think you are within specifications. There should be two batteries, a smaller one to power the computer when the engine is switched off and the main battery to crank the engine, making it easier to isolate the problem.
There should be no greater than 50ma drain in battery when car is turned off.
Other places to check are the Home link for the garage door opener can cause a drain on the batter. This was a big issue with the Acura TL
, I heard.
thank you so much, i followed your steps and i got the exact problem, but i never installed anything, i just don't know how to fix it any suggestion
You should get no more than 50 ma drain if everything is off. If you are getting more than that and you pulled a fuse and then you notice a drop . There is something on that circuit causing it. Look to see what’s on that circuit. It could be any electrical device on that circuit.
so what was the issue?
See czcams.com/video/6zcf1Naqv5A/video.html
It was. A kit installed. In radio
Uninstalled that kit and all was fine .
Remember. It is a free multimeter. It has its limitations
Yah but it got the job done. Thanks for viewing .
I'm not sure what the price of the multimeter has to do with it. I've got the same model, paid for it, and it works just fine. Did it work poorly if it's free?
Sorry to be an ass, but that sentiment has always bothered me. Free seldom means inferior.
same one I have. back ACC circuit (accessory) I used to think it was A/C compression ..,. lol
You should continue checking the fuse box's inside the car, you will hit the Number 7 (ACC) fuse 7.5 AMPS.
It controls sliding doors. after cars get old the latch becomes sloppy and the system thinks door is not looked so it keep waking up and drawing charge to lock door... that is a problem I am having
I actually found it see video on it . It’s been fine since fixing it .
Sounds like tensioner pulley is going bad
Thanks for the comment, the pulley is new and all the belts were just replaced (for its 200k maintenance) including full timing belt replacement , After it’s warmed up the sound goes away. Belts that were used were not Honda parts there were Continental branded belts and kit. The pulley was replaced but I don’t know if it was a Oem Honda part used.