Anode rod. Does my RV water heater need one?
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- čas přidán 8. 04. 2024
- Anode rod. Does my RV water heater need one? Curious about the role of an anode rod in your RV water heater? In this insightful new video, we're diving deep into the world of anode rods, exploring whether your RV water heater truly needs one and why can be an essential component for your RV's plumbing system! 💧🔩
Join Todd & Tony on their new Tech Tip Deep Dive Channel @TechTipTNT where you can learn more on this topic!
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Whether you're a seasoned RVer or new to the world of RV plumbing, this video will provide you with valuable insights into the importance of anode rods in your RV's water heating system! 🚐🛠️
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Todd thanks for talking about the Schwintec slide. I have struggled with mine and no one has told how to clean it.
I look forward to each video.
Keep the good content coming.
I lv these quick tips, if I wasn’t 78 yrs old I would be at that Red Schoolhouse in a heart beat 😊
Thanks Todd, Great Vid as usually.
Thanks for the info. I pulled the plug after draining the system on my Atwood water heater and was like “where the hell is the anode rod?” Now I know. Thanks!!
LCI has a video on their website that you have to lube the spur gears and only use CRC Power lube. Which I recommend to all my customers to use on the entire RV.
I use Nolox. It is for aluminum wire, with steel connections. And it does stop corrosion.
I dont have one. But i flush it every 3 mos. I live in my rv
Todd, I see you did in fact skip the usernames this time 🤣👍.
Thanks for always providing great info bud!
Morning, when I removed the plastic plug in my Atwood water heater, as the water drained out there was a milky colored flow at the end of draining 6gal of water.
My RV is 27yrs old, I don't think it was ever properly winterized before in it's life, I installed an anode rod then used the RV for a season, when I winterized and drained the tank again there was no milky water at the end of the draining and there was some slight pitting of the rod.
Do you think the slight pitting was from the threaded cap of the rod?
Seen videos where techs say the Atwoods plastic plug protects the water heater by melting of it gets to hot?
Todd (bearded guy on the internet), can you help me with my furnace? My furnace would light but not stay lit. Practically from the start of ownership. I replaced the sail switch and that did not help. I’ve looked into replacing the relay switch but am concerned with taking out the furnace to get to it and I have a hard time thinking it’s the problem since the furnace hasn’t really worked from the get go. Can you give me some ideas on what to do? Thanks. Love your channel.
I'm on well water. Will that affect life of my anode rod? I smell a strong odor outside by the outside of the water heater.
Pertaining to the cleaning the Schwintek slide: Isn't Simple Green corrosive to aluminum? I've used it for years, but always rinse immediately and well.
Great tip!
Hey Todd my Motorcoach is 17 years old did it come with adode rod?
It depends on what brand water heater you have. Atwood / Dometic tanks are aluminum are do not need an anode rod. They will have a plastic drain plug. Suburban tanks however are steel and do require an anode rod.
Zinc ?
Todd, Please stress the impotance of using the CORRECT Anode rod, based on its metallic components! Ex: Aluminum for ceramic coated tanks vs. Zinc for all others. I had to find this out the hard way after tasting Zinc Oxide in my ceramic Surburban (sulfur taste and smell). Thanks.
Magnesium rods work the best
You couldn't be more wrong about what's going on in your tank...magnesium rods corrode faster, needing replacement more frequently but some say offer more protection as they are more reactive (galvanic corrosion mentioned in this video) . Aluminum last longer. The zinc rods for rv use are not pure zinc, that's toxic. They are aluminum with zinc added. The sulfer smell you refer to is not zinc oxide, it's hydrogen sufide gas created by sulfates in the water (not stopped by filters) and bacteria (only some stopped by certain filters) reacting and creating the gas. (also known as Sewer gas) The sulfates in the water react with bacteria stuck in crevices in your tank (from infrequent or improper maintenance). Bleaching (or white vinegar) and flushing the system is the only way to rid the bacteria. The zinc added to aluminum rods reacts with the hydrogen sulfide and creates hydrogen gas and zinc sulfate (precipitate). This will effectively lower or diminish the smell to perceived acceptable levels, but it's not stopping the root issue.
Rinse your tank. Bleach your system. Do proper maintenance. And don't tell Todd to give people advice you made up yourself.
By the way, zinc oxide is odorless. It also takes around 1800°F to create.
Is not aluminum/ Fluoride causing Alzheimer's and dementia as it's not an essential mineral which magnesium, zinc and copper are?😮
Is there an email or somewhere I could send you a question along with a picture? When we stopped at Buccee's store, we noticed something dragging underneath our camper. My husband pulled it out. It was a steal rod with a threaded nut on the end of it. From what my husband could tell, nothing is broken or appears to be broken anyway. Everything works fine. The slide out works fine. I was told that every slide out system has a manual override crank for it in case the electric fails. If this is true, I am wondering if this is the slide out manual override bar. Any other ideas for me as to what this bar is or goes to?
I might bhave a idea but with out looking its a guess. The only rods that i know of are for the sewer gate valves. I assume you would know them . A nother thing i have seen on some rv slides the have a rod that holds wire coiled up for power in the slide wall. Its a holder for slack for the wire as it goes in and out. Hope that helps..
@@chadengemann8237 I appreciate those ideas. The gate valves are working fine. Opening and closing with no problem. So I don't think it's something with those unless it's something hidden. The rod holder for slack idea seems plausible except I don't understand why the rod would have a threaded nut welded on the end of it. For reference, we have a Shasta 25RS 30ft Travel Trailer. My husband found the rod just in front of the axle/wheel and behind the doorsteps. He crawled in between the doorsteps and wheels to get the rod if that makes sense. There is also a small hole/opening just under the doorstep that I have never figured out what it is for. It's not a dog tie out.
Zink? 😂
Looks like the beard list a couple since I last checked in. How about plug suggestions instead.of a odes. Thought they were useless causes of junk I'm the water anyway