Prime Time 61 Impala : Building a Solid Foundation
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- čas přidán 23. 06. 2022
- It's prime time for the 61 Impala. Ensuring you have the best possible foundation for your body work and paint is crucial. In this video we will give you some tips and tricks to help you make sure you get the best first prime possible. Metal prep, gun set up and spraying techniques will all be discussed in this video. Fell free to ask some questions in the comments and check out the links below.
#sylvesterscustoms #sylvestercustoms
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Travis, your videos are the best on CZcams. Thanks for all your time and sharing.
Paul
Thank you!!
A gun setup video would be fantastic. Also, a video on tips and tricks for different kinds of paints: paint without clear, paint with clear, metallic, etc.
Thank you for requesting a video as a matter of fact we will be doing the bottom floor of a 47 Cadillac soon and we plan to cover this exact thing.
You are an amazing teacher.... Sooooo much of what you said came flooding back from my days in college... You give me confidence boss!!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for sharing such great information and knowledge!
I’m doing the same car right now (61 biscayne). Had It blasted 13 yes ago. No one schooled me on best methods. It’s taken me a solid 3yrs to get the body straight enough to start priming. Wish I had this video when I started my project. It’s ok. I’m living and learning! Your knowledge is priceless, thank you for taking the time to get the rest of us up to speed.
Yeah I feel your pain and struggle it’s how I’ve learned honestly. Glad your getting there on your 61 👍🏻
I drove in all these impala when they were brand new 🇺🇲
Appreciate your expertise Travis I always learn a lot from your videos!
Thank you!!
Excellent video, thank you for simplifying the process, I’m gathering as much info as I can before I undertake my own project.
Glad it was helpful!
You are a tremendous teacher. Love your videos.
Thank you so much!
Travis,
A great video. I am using this a refresher course on painting. You offer clear, concise & understandable tips & info.
Rick
Glad to hear thank you!
Another great video! I have never painted a car in my life but after watching your videos I feel like I’m ready to do some Pebble Beach restorations! Lol🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
That’s what our goal is!!! Go get after it 👊🏻👍🏻
For the at home DIY, Sylvester brings up some very good pointers & tips. First, getting your gun setup and make it comfortable for your coating project. Write down info from temperature, fluid needle number of turns much less product used as the temp range of the catalyst maybe different. Just remember, this is the build stage, as both success & failures are note worthy and correctable. This stage developed muscle memory for the next spray plus one tip I will bring up! How much sprayable product will I need? If a simple epoxy that seals the metal, to begin that perfect base, how much did you use in one coat. This will help if you need high build primer, if this product is not available where you live. All suppliers are finding shortage in large batch orders of binders, resins and other products, so prepare for it.
Sylvester, thanks again for the honest expectations are, including outgassing. This is not pulling uncle Franks finger at holiday dinners! This is part of a chemical reaction that produce these gasses plus, the solvents that have to escape to leave a chemical & tooth (Sanding) clean start to your project. Don’t forget yourself when it comes to clean. 3M mask are available in a fashion designed for simple dust, but as well as activated carbon that absorbs volatiles created when spraying, glove and XXL Tall zipper suits are $10-$13 at home improvement stores. Dirty you, dirt paint. Don’t spend hours cleaning the vehicle, walls and floor, only to spray with your tee shirt or flannel long sleeve if colder. Ever clean the dryers lint trap? There you go! Be safe, be smart and be successful. Sylvester will help you with the rest.
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
Good points Dean. One thing I might add, especially to the DIYers, that the protective gear is just as important for your health. This VP2050 is some pretty sticky stuff even by primer standards. You dont want to walk away feeling like a fly on fly paper. Proper respirator, gloves, head socks,suits are very important.
@@class5bodyworks Good catch Chris. I brought the clean part by using PPE, but you reminded us the PPE is dual purpose, clean you…safe you!
Thank you very much for the long comment we will actually be doing a very detailed video on the next spray project we have hopefully in the next few weeks 👍🏻
💯💯💯💯
Always good info Travis! Looking forward to this build!
Thank you!
Leaf blower and a Rotisserie works well for blowing out grit. I don't like the idea of using any spray/cavity waxes until after paint as it continues to run out drains and seam gaps. I did most of my obvious rust repairs prior to blasting, Blasting then showed up a couple of spots I never would have found but it also showed a few flaws / pin holes in my welds. Great series and advice 👍👍👍.
Yes I agree we do not use the wax I’m currently in search of a product to use in those areas. But it definitely won’t be wax.
Travis I just purchased s 67 Plymouth satellite your tutorials just saved me from making major mistakes on my build. I thought about blasting until I found your videos thank you so much for these tutorials.
Glad to hear it!!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Same here. I didn't take my Chevy to the blaster. My buddy took his car to the blaster after I advised him not to. I shared your video about not sand blasting. He did not listen and said the professionals use blasters.
I am in your May class. I'm a sponge and ready to learn the modern way. I haven't painted a car since 1979. See you soon.
Always value the experience.
Thank you!!
Eastwood sells a internal frame protectant, rust converter. It comes with a 2 foot hose, it’s not cheap about 40$ per 16 oz, but it works quite well compared to other things, I did my doors, headliner and behind the lock panels on my 51 Chevy 3600
Thanks again for a great informative video Travis. I love the Vibrance epoxy vp2050, I notice I get way more of it on the car and less on the floor ! For the inner cavities I have used Tectyl Rust preventative treatment for years and love it, Im from New Zealand originally ( slightly wet climate ) and remembered how many of the cars from the 1970s that had the Tectyl treatment in their early days and had very little rust issues decades later, hence the reason I like it.
That’s awesome thanks for the tip!
Told ya I watch your video b4 bed!
Great video !
Thank you
Thanks so much for sharing. I'm a DIY'er and I've been working on my Jeep Wrangler and watching auto body videos for 3-4 years and nobody shares these tips/tricks.
Thank you!
Dude just found ypur channel and it's awesome you do exactly what im wanting to do and you explain everything perfectly, 🤘👍 from Australia
Right on! Thank you
Great video very informative I wouldn't mine seeing a video on dealing with ripples after block sanding and primer to make sure it's flat some times I have this problem thank you for the video
Funny you say that we’re going to be filming one!
Awesome video....ahhh you just stole my thunder. I was going to suggest Chassis Saver. It can be thinned out and sprayed. Not a huge fan of the wax whatever spray. Wax gets warm, softens and now you have dirt mixed in. Just add water and your screwed. Well anyway, love what you do and what your doing. Cheers!
Thank you. I totally agree wax…. Yuck🤣
I love 2050
Eastwood Zinc coating is really good for inner structures that you can’t get to with primer. Zinc is naturally the best anti-rust metal out there and the product comes with a long whip so you can reach in as far as possible
Isn’t it thin? How does it hold up long term?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS It holds up pretty well. Eastwood designed it to be a frame coating originally and then adapted it to internal panels. The only downside is its a one part product. Normally l really don’t like that for any long term solution but the high zinc content does hold up
I'm up in Ontario Canada, I am able to easily get the cre 321 here and tried it out. It's pretty awesome, I likely won't used anything else now if I don't have to. Thanks for the advice. Having multiple products sucks.
I'm putting it on with 1.8 tip at 2 coats and it really builds up , of course guns vary, I do have the 2.0 set up for the gun which I'll try next
Awesome yeah that’s good stuff
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I worked in a bodyshop specializing in muscle cars back in the 90's , kept it up as a hobby since, got back into it full time in the last few years , things have changed, products and expectations, mostly for the better, your chanel has been a lot of help. Thank you. Keep it up👍
Tamco has a good dtm high build epoxy that’s not crazy expensive I’ve been using it for a while works really good I’ve done some pretty extreme testing with it and it’s holding up no problem
I’ve only used a couple products from Tamco and I wasn’t impressed but I haven’t given it much of a chance but hey use whatever works 👍🏻
I think Tamco is a good option especially since you can’t seem to get PPG online.
@@ajd5363 and around here south Texas through my ppg distributer that 2050 is $500 a gallon
Great information. How many coats would you start with before scuffing for filler that you won’t push through to metal? Whenever you finish with your series you might consider offering a CD video series. Thank you
We’re working on similar options actually. I’d start with two coats 👌🏻
Hobbyist here but have used the dupont 244S quick prep on bare metal to buy time against flash rust which is a big problem in florida. It gives you a little extra time (days) to prepare larger areas without worrying about surface rust. Not sure if you can still buy it or not.
I have seen that it’s more of a Collision product but whatever gets the job done 👍🏻👍🏻
The VP2050 sounds very interesting. I would like to see more videos about it. The epoxy I use can be mixed as a sealer as well. What are you guys using for a sealer? I'm enjoying the channel.
We have other videos showing it more. We either use the vp2050 and reduce it slightly more or use the shopline sealer 👍🏻
SPI (Southern Polyethylene) makes an amazing epoxy that is super easy to sand. And is way more affordable
swivels limit air flow dramatically. if you use high flow fittings then it basically makes it low flow. torque test channel did a comparison of them. and with and without them. limits an impact so I'd assume the same for a paint gun.
Yeah we had high flow fittings. For about a year and after dealing with how many weeks and O-rings that went bad I got so tired of dealing with it I went back to what I had before regardless you will still need a swivel to get into the tight areas especially if you are using a fisheye filter and the regulator just depends on your set up 👍🏻
Love all your videos love the detail that you put into your projects. My question is I see a lot of people that have bare metal cars while they work on them and I get it with the microscopic flash rust but if you have a bare metal car that you’re working on and you’re doing things like welding in patches or hammer and dolly is microscopic rust really a concern if you’re freshly scuffing it or wiping it down with metal prep before you work on it and before you prime it with epoxy?
Thank you! Prepping metal before paint is all that’s needed. If we have something in bare metal for a certain amount of time then I will send it with an orbital sander with 80 grit, and wipe it down with wax and grease remover before I seal it up
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks Travis!! Looking forward to future videos!!
Appreciate this video a lot!! 🙏🏼💪🏽😎Thanks for the insight. Im just about at the stage of using my eastwood SCT to strip my 72 Cutlass to metal. Im going to use the 40 grit strip drum, do you recommend after that I go over it again with the 100 grit or is 40 ok then clean with grease/wax remover. Thanks. 👍🏽
Yes I definitely recommend going back over it that 40 grit drum does a bit of polishing. We use 80 grit on the dual action sander. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Copy that, Perfect thank you. 🤙🏽
Hi Travis, Jim again, what do you know or think of about soda blasting and media blasting? I’m 51 and still have my first car I got when I was 17. 69 Camaro, back in the day self etching primer yellow or green was the top of the line. Can you share pros and cons and or is it a thing of the past? Thank you for another great video.
Soda blasting or plastic media blasting is fine because it’s not stretching the metal or causing damage. You will need to scuff the surface really good. Etch primer is a bit of a dated product everyone has pretty much gone to using a quality epoxy primer to keep out moisture.
The nice thing about the VP2050 is it pretty much stays where it lays so don't be afraid to get it on there. I use a 2.5 ( I know, I'm a hoser). This stuff has some sack so you can really block on it. I've been is using this as a base but I'm starting to lean more towards the DP90LV. It's more forgiving when welding to it. Acts more like an E coat and somehow conductive. The one thing that concerns me about the 2050 is it seems to be brittle when dry. Any thoughts on this? Good to know on the other primer. We did have some issues getting the 2050 but seems back on line so far. Always looking for a backup just on case.
In the tests that we have been doing we have not found it to be brittle however if everything underneath it is excessively thick then that goes out the window. I also use a 2.0 tip so I’m not far from you 🤣. I know on the final prime I try to make sure what actually left on the car is not excessively thick. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
Yeah, I've been keeping an eye on my film build. I'm confident l can scale back to two coats in instead of three.
Awesome videos, I'm a DIY guy working out of my garage. What recommendations would you have for air compressor filtration/setup?
We have a sata fresh air system that has 3 filters and we currently just have a devilbiss water separator. Even I would like to get a different set up
Not an expert by any means, but imo buy as large a 2 stage oiled compressor as you can! You want the air supply to be as cool as possible(keeping water vapor out of suspension as much as you can…get a auto draining valve for the tank too) and you do that most easily by having the compressor run as LITTLE as possible. So, unless you have an unlimited budget allowing a rotary compressor with a dryer($10k+), a large displacement 2stage pump and big(60 gal++) tank lets you spray for a longer time without the compressor running constantly. Stay away from the depot style oil less 30 gal units. You will fight water constantly as they will run all the time.
Of course you need water and oil separators and a filter at the gun.
You can do it with almost any compressor that satisfies the gun requirements, but if setting up a shop/garage and you want to paint a car, shoot for 5hp/60 gal or+ with18cfm+. Also consider your other shop air requirements like a parts blaster. If you are going to have that/those I would bump to 10hp/25 and up CFM.
There are other things you can cheap out on, but I would buy a quality compressor. Look for used units from closing shops businesses. Some good deals can be found on older/ugly quality American made units(Quincy/ Ingersoll Rand/ Saylor-Beall etc. )
Just my opinion of course. No
How is this ‘61 coming along? I don’t see any other videos after this one. Am I just not seeing it? Thank you! 🏆🏁✌️😎
Funny you ask I started working on it this week actually. We’ve been waiting on chassis forever. Videos coming soon. Or check out instagram for daily shop updates. 🙌🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I’m not on the gram but I look forward to the next CZcams video update! Thank you for the reply! ✌️😎
@@jayroller7054 👊🏻🙌🏻
Hello travis love all your videos, in one of your videos that i cannot find now you mentioned an aerosol spray can product to apply to bare metal panels to prevent rust prior to priming. Do you remember the product you mentioned? Thanks again Pat Bradshaw
Gibbs oil to keep metal from rusting. Then clean it off before priming. But it is paint friendly no silicone in it 👌🏻
Thank you travis your videos provide a huge amount of detail that is much appreaciated.
Pat bradshaw
yooo can you post a link to that swivel join you got? I cant find one online the only ones on amazon are some weird ones for the spray nozzel of some interior house paint gun
I bought it at my local supply store. I would think that autobody tool mart would have it online. Hope that helps.
Excellent video Travis - I'm doing two cars using the DP2050 - do you reduce it at all for a bit better flow prior to top coat or just leave it thick and block down?
Thanks!
Chip
For the VP2050 it’s 2:1:1/2 I typically spray per that but if I end up using it as a sealer I mix 2:1:1
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS same mix ratio as CRE 321
6:50 - what about E Cote with Zinc Chromate after acid dipping as protection of all the cavities? You can strip that off the outside panels after all the sheet metal is done then VP2050 prime and continue as normal. I always worry about rusting from the inside with acid dipping as you can’t replace all that it removes with spray.
That would work. You gotta remember almost always those inner areas are already surface rusted. Just gotta get in there and seal it up. Where do you buy this E coat?
What products are you planning to use for topcoat on areas such as undercarriage, floorboards, trunk, firewall, etc?
Either a raptor liner or lizard skin insulation. Raptor exterior lizard interior
Would like to hear or see how you would take a fiberglass body such as a 63 vette from raw (eg. soda blasted) through to final prep for paint in terms of materials used and order of process. How much would differ from meal body
We have a cobra here now. Once we get to it maybe we can cover it but there’s nothing different on our process same primer and fillers will be used. If anything they are easier in my opinion. We don’t have to deal with dents we just do some fiberglass work and seal it up in vp2050
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS so use vp2050 over raw fiberglass and then body filler to get straight or does one apply filler on raw fiberglass to get straight and then vp2050.
What's your thoughts on these LVLP guns ,it would be great to do a segment on those .You do a great job on these tutorials,I have found out though to quit watching all of the info and stick to a few .It seems to work for me and not getting confused on which one I watched I'm getting older not younger once s
Correct to many opinions. Don’t think I’ve used a lvlp gun to date.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSunsure if in this video you used an lph400 to prime, if that's the case that gun isV actually an LVLP not hvlp like most descriptions say
Vasa lean and baby oil heated and applied. For the boxed in areas.
What is this used for?
what grid of sand paper do you leave the vp2050 before top coat with b/c
I’m a fan of 600
Appreciate your very informative videos. I am in socal also..Los Angeles. Can you please suggest a source for the VP2050? Thank you.
Your welcome! I go to Temecula valley paint. But you just need to look up any ppg automotive supply house they can get it for you. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks so much for your help. One other quick question: if you know you will need to do some bodywork i.e. bondo after epoxy primer is it still worth using the VP2050 or would any reputable epoxy primer give the same result at the end of the day?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I picked up a gallon of vp2050 and a 2.0 spray tip. Would you please give me a couple of suggestions: 1- the data sheet calls for some reducer. Do you use it and think it is necessary? 2- how many coats do you put on initially on bare treated steel for the first block sanding? Thank you so much for all of your help!
Just priced that vp2050 here in Australia
$420 a gallon!!
Wow !! It’s about $300 here last I looked.
Should you use phosphoric acid left to dry on the surface AND a self etching epoxy primer? I fear my friend is about to botch his c10
I’m not sure what your question is?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS if you use a phosphoric acid prep shouldn't you then use a regular epoxy primer instead of a self etching primer? Or will it not affect the adhesion of subsequent coats with the doubled acid applied. I've seen many comments about using phosphoric acid where they wash it off to neutralize the acid before priming. He's done a lot of metal work and is heading to fitment and paint relatively soon. Just don't want to see any problems arise. He will be using the products you use in your videos going on to filler and painting.
If the original primer stuck to the metal, doesn’t that mean it’s already rough enough to prime without sanding (after the acid bath)?
No, it is not enough we remove all e-coatings
I have the VP 2050 on order for my shop here in south central NE, can a sata jet b primer gun with a 1.6 tip work for this primer?
Yeah it should. But if you can get a 2.0 tip would work even better it’s really thick
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ok thanks. my shop is doing a full resto on a 1959 Chevy apache 31 step side truck and id like to try this product out on that. acid dipping isn't available in my area so we are trying different ways to strip the paint down to bare metal I think we are going to strip it with a 8'' eliminator. the truck will be torn all the way down and off the frame I don't have a rotisserie in my shop yet
Do you know which store sends those primers to Finland? I can't find them in Europe 😔
Sorry I have no idea
Is OR the closest place to So CA that does dipping? I’m in N. Orange County.
Yes sadly
so vp2050 can b sprayed over bondo?
Yes!!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks your fast lol
The ideal situation would be to acid dip and get it to bare metal everywhere, including between all the weld flanges and cavities, then e-coat the whole body so there is nothing left exposed.
If those guys were available they would make a killing
Well watched this for the 5th time lol. Is W&G all you use before 2050? is it ok to use 75%rubbing alcohol ? when do you know for sure your ready for Epoxy?
Wax & grease thoroughly. Or acid washing is even better. I use whatever the manufacturer recommends.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS TY going to use your soaked microfiber method 1 dry 1 wet on the metal.
I don’t have the funds, nor am I sure if I ever will… I’m debating between a chemical dip or just selling and buying a car with less paint issues so I can just do exterior body & paint.
Do you have any experience with e-coating?
Most of the time you’re guessing on if another car has better paint or not. We remove all of the e-coating.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I guess I’d be curious to have the vehicle dipped to reapply e-coating to the inside of the panels after the acid bath. That way I don’t have to worry about exposed metal on parts which don’t get painted.
What is your go to Epoxy primer? SPI? Eastwood? NAson? Or like you said vp2050 or Tamco 53xx series? only because i just bought the 53xx they said to epoxy 1st the car is all metal now. TSS just informed me 53xx does not have epoxy in it. Well now i see why you go with 2050 saving all that money on straight epoxy 1st is awesome! 2050 ground up...
Correct we use VP 2050 from start to finish. I stick with one manufacturer all the way through and I make sure everything is compatible.
Which Walcom gun do you recommend for primer and which one for base and clear coat?
I forget the specific name of the gun offhand. I spray my primers with the Kevlar gun they have and a 1.8 tip. I personally spray all of my paint with Iwata Guns. But I could definitely see Walcom having great paint Guns as well.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS are you still doing those in person training sessions ?
@@williamblair2934 yes I am currently we have a color sanding and polishing class hosting Jason Killmer in January. And then in March I will be traveling to Wisconsin doing a four day class with linear blocking tools. The one in March will be teaching everything from metal work all the way to paint and polish.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks Travis. Do you have any planned up in the NW ? Specifically Oregon?
@@williamblair2934 no it would be a rare thing for me to be out of California as it is maybe later in the year we will have one in my shop
i cant find any of the 2 locally here in Houston Texas wtf everyone tells me that California low voc junk yet they dont have a normal version
Are you referring to vp2050? It’s on national back order.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS both cre321 and vp2050
What did you pay to have it dipped?
3k plus shipping
Was that just the body or all the bolt on parts as well?
Thank God you didnt call it a donk 🇺🇲
Def not something I’d build lol
You can shoot clear with a 2.0 it's honestly not that hard and I'm not even a pro just someone that love to paint.
You can shoot it out of a garden hose too lol