Liz you are the best explaining, comparing all the videos with the pros I pick yours the best. Easy to understand. OMG, you did a lot of research. Thank you Dearly!!!😘👏👍
Thank you for all the great detail. We got our new dryer w 4 prong cord from our daughter since her new house has two dryers! Of course our older house has 3 prong outlet. We originally thought we would upgrade our outlet, so while researching we saw how the new dryers have a grounding bridge (strip) that is removed when 4 prong cord is installed. We then discovered our outlet box does not have the separate ground wire to easily upgrade that. Plan B is now to do precisely what your video shows. You answered our important question on how to replace the missing bridge ground wire -- Thank you for your careful and safe presentation! 💯👍
Good thorough job I just did the same thing you did except I didn't use that green wire I just connected to three wires to it and I didn't get shocked or anything so I'm leaving it the way it is but you did an awesome job Thank you
You didn't need to add the green wire. You could have connected the dryer's case to the neutral by merely reconnecting the white jumper wire to the case, which is what the jumper is there for. The hidden end of the jumper wire is already internally connected to the middle terminal.
What she did was OK but unnecessary. She didn't read or didn't have the manual and thus didn't understand the purpose of the white jumper wire the manufacturer provides. She could have accomplished the same thing by simply detaching the white jumper wire from the center terminal and attaching it to the case to ground it. That's what the dryer's manual says to do.
Thanks. This is just the video I needed. Same situation. Modern equipment and old rental. Had no idea and it’s working out good.between the video and comments I’m all sorted out.
Good video. Just an FYI they make a heat shrink connector. So you don't need electrical tape an a hair dryer, heat gun or if your desperate a lighter will shrink it down tight around the wire.
After searching and searching finally the video i was looking for. The comments about connecting the white wire to the ground screw is good to know but my dryer did not have this white wire or a strip don't know if it got lost or removed when someone else installed the dryer previously or for whatever the reason it is not there and this video shows what to do if you don't have that wire,so THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO.
Is the white wire found on the back of ALL dryers? Or only on new dryers? On another note, I'm disturbed by the amount of confusion that exists about this, and the number of times an expert has had to chime in here. The industry still has some catching up to do.
Omg thank you 🙏🏿 you didn’t even consider your self a professional but I went thru a lot of video of them not putting the white cord in the middle omg thank you bless you
Y'all stop the video at 16:53. If you look at the top of the center terminal you can see it (IS) the white wire (it loops behind the metal). So instead of looping it to ITSELF which is what is done by hooking the white to the bottom of the terminal it's already hooked to. Just hook it to the chassis or body of the dryer. (The green ground screw). In this case the green wire (she made) can be removed and take the white wire and hook it to the upper left green screw. No big deal but you didn't need to make the green jumper wire out of your 4 prong that you may need when you move.
The white wire is called the "neutral", if you had examined the inside of your service box, you would see that both the ground (green) and the neutral (white) both attach to the bus bars that go to ground. They are both the same but code requires all the white (neutral) wires be on their own bus bar and the ground (green) wires be on their own bus bar. You did NOT have to cut off the green wire, it could have been screwed to the chassis (the hole in the the metal box, along with the eyelet of the white wire. It would not be a problem. You don't need to cut wires off. I applaud you for DIYing your electrical, but you need to learn more about wiring procedures for home electrical services.
Hey man, question, I replaced my heating element. When I plug everything back up, the back of the dryer sparked and jumped the fuse box in the garage. The machine would turn on without popping but only when you ran the dryer cycle, is when it popped. I couldn't not figure out what is causing this but noticed the heating element coils are touching the wire that runs to the sensor on the heating element. Could this touching of the coils be short circuiting the dryer? Never had an issue breaking down the dryer until I replaced the heating element.
Thanks for making this video. I assumed the 4th wire had to be a ground wire...... what else could it be? I live in an old house (about 40 years old) and the dryer connection has the old 3 prong outlet. I was not for sure if I would need to get that old outlet re-wired. I actually have never bought a new dryer and did not know if you could even buy the old 3 prongs anymore.
HI, i have a kenmore 796.813 dryer. I have installed the 4 prong power wires. However there is a white and a yellow/green wire that I removed and i cant remember where it was connected.. Can you please assit me? thank you. Currently the 4 prong is connected with the green wire to the ground white to nuetral, and red on red , and black on black. Im missing the white neutral and yellow/green wire. thank you
Thanks for making this video. I assumed the 4th wire had to be a ground wire...... I mean, what else could it be? I live in an old house (about 40 years old) and the dryer connection has the old 3 prong outlet. I was not for sure if I would need to get that old outlet re-wired. I actually have never bought a new dryer and did not know if you could even buy the old 3 prongs wire anymore. what is still confusing to me is why you need 4 prongs? Since the 3rd prong on a 3 prong is also a ground. Maybe it's better to have extra ground because of the higher AMP and voltage of the dryer outlets? Or just as a backup? But, that makes sense that you can just run a wire from the 3rd ground to the 4th.
Mind blown, the middle terminal and the wire mounted to the body is the same wire. Who ever hooked the 4 prong was wrong also. Taking the ground off and putting it on the middle terminal takes the ground off the body. That white wire is supposed to be on the body.
Gee... Sorry, but the original 4-wire configuration was totally correct as wired, and it reflects the primary reason that the industry evolved from 3-wire to 4-wire for dryers and ovens. In today's homes, neutrals (whites) must remain isolated from grounds (greens or bare copper) at all locations other than at the first electrical panel, typically your main panel. That smaller white wire is actually electrically connected to the center terminal (neutral) up inside the dryer, so the original electrician was simply connecting the small white wire back onto itself, thus preventing it from inadvertently contacting a hot wire or the dryer cabinet. Connecting the green wire to the cabinet grounds the latter while still maintaining isolation between ground and neutral, in conformance with today's version of the Nationl Electrical Code. Contined use of the less desirable 3-wire plugs is a concession by the NEC to avoid having to rewire tens of millions of dryer and oven receptacles in older homes.
@@josephknapick5307 sorry but you sound good, but you don't know what your talking about. That white wire is a harness that grounds to every panel in the dryer. by unplugging it your just taking the ground off of one of the most important panels- the metal box itself. fortcollinshabitat.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC04216.jpg
No Gee... While you are correct that the white pigtail is indeed connected the the center (neutral) terminal, in a four-wire configuration connecting both the green wire and the white pigtail to the cabinet grounding screw violates the NEC. Ground and neutral are only permitted to be bonded together at the the "point of first disconnect", which is typically the main service panel in most homes. Downstream of that location, neutrals must be kept isolated from grounds. The NEC tolerates an exception to this rule for three-wire dryer and oven receptacles to avoid mass rewiring of homes that only have legacy three conductor 240 volt receptacles at these locations. Experienced electrical engineer here with a copy of the 2920 NEC Handbook on my coffee table. If you also have a copy I can send you "chapter and verse" references if you need them...
@@josephknapick5307 you obviously don't work on machine, or you would know that ground wire not only is bolted to the body throw-out the machine, so plugging it into itself is counter-intuitive. neutral and ground are always connected together. Those rules were being enforced until people realized that there paying all this money to change over there wall terminal and pigtail for no good reason at all. they were so hard up on making people change there terminals, Whirlpool even came out with a dryer that the 4 prong was built into the harness. That was wrong, but what ever makes an extra buck. So now the rule is in the book, but not being enforced, because it's a BS guideline .
I didn't know that at the time, which is part of the reason for the video. There have been a lot of alternative suggestions in the comments which was the point since I knew this probably wasn't the best way to do it, but it's what I did with the information I had, and it's worked. Based on my research before this project, and the various comments, it seems there are many opinions about the best way to do this, I simply presented one and gave the opportunity for others to share their methods, which includes you. 😊 Thank you again for your comment, it's helpful. (And thank you for deleting your other comment - you'd be disappointed in my kitchen skills anyways 😉 and my nails usually have dirt under them)
@@lizg8934 you did wonderful in my opinion, and I'm about to do exactly what you did, 2+ years since u made the video and it's working still. I trust you lol
No one should be creating any new grounds. Your playing with 240 volts And 30 amps. No electrician should Encourage anyone to do that.if I were You i would get someone who knows What they are doing .
All she had to do is turn off the breaker which I'm sure she was smart enough to do. Other than buying a new cord, however, I'd have swapped out the 240VAC outlet. Of course that's even more dangerous and when we do this in our new rentals we purchase, the entire breaker is popped entirely out first. You are right, though 240VAC is extremely dangerous and lethal
This works. Many electricians have done this instead of pulling a new wire. I should know. I’m an engineer. I agree right and regulations matter. Before the new rules. All dryers ran with 3 wires. A fourth wire going to the same pole in the breaker box does make a better circuit. I think she is awesome for doing her homework. The info she got was from a 20 year veteran electrician. Bash all you want to. This works and it is safe.
@@bromporke Should have upgraded the receptacle, instead of dangerously downgrading the dyer's safety.... BTW, Since most homes have a ground wire already, it would have been easier than what she did anyway....
@@bromporke that is why the old receptacle would need to be replaced, since it uses the white common wire also as the ground...but there is usually a bare/uninsulated or green wire that is "not used" by the old receptacle to upgrade it to a new safer 4 prong receptacle... and search youtube posts on how to do it...good luck....
I did just as you said Ann's that was wonderful. Then I read the labelon the dryer that said outta illegal to wire the neural to ground on mobile home, park trailer or RV. Guts what? It works without the jump lead. Who knew?
🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲♥️♥️♥️♥️🌎🌎🌎🍓🍓🤪 Liz made me fan when she hit the green jumper wire with a hammer. How many would like to see the woman behind the sexy voice? Just curious......
OMG, before making another video please buy yourself a tripod for your camera or get someone to video for you! I got extremely dizzy watching this. Thanks for the useful information but this video could have been much shorter with a little more forethought.
Liz you are the best explaining, comparing all the videos with the pros I pick yours the best. Easy to understand. OMG, you did a lot of research. Thank you Dearly!!!😘👏👍
Glad it helped! 😎👊
Thank you for all the great detail. We got our new dryer w 4 prong cord from our daughter since her new house has two dryers! Of course our older house has 3 prong outlet. We originally thought we would upgrade our outlet, so while researching we saw how the new dryers have a grounding bridge (strip) that is removed when 4 prong cord is installed. We then discovered our outlet box does not have the separate ground wire to easily upgrade that. Plan B is now to do precisely what your video shows. You answered our important question on how to replace the missing bridge ground wire -- Thank you for your careful and safe presentation! 💯👍
Glad it helped! :)
Good thorough job I just did the same thing you did except I didn't use that green wire I just connected to three wires to it and I didn't get shocked or anything so I'm leaving it the way it is but you did an awesome job Thank you
You didn't need to add the green wire. You could have connected the dryer's case to the neutral by merely reconnecting the white jumper wire to the case, which is what the jumper is there for. The hidden end of the jumper wire is already internally connected to the middle terminal.
Yes she was confusing me about that I look video online for dryer install never said anything about cut adding wires ? Why did she do that ?
What she did was OK but unnecessary. She didn't read or didn't have the manual and thus didn't understand the purpose of the white jumper wire the manufacturer provides. She could have accomplished the same thing by simply detaching the white jumper wire from the center terminal and attaching it to the case to ground it. That's what the dryer's manual says to do.
@@joeearls8878 when you case, are you just referring to the back of the dryer?
@@robertcruz3128 Yes.
@@joeearls8878 that's probably the most helpful comment I've received, and tactful at that. Thank you for your suggestion and input 👍
Thanks. This is just the video I needed. Same situation. Modern equipment and old rental. Had no idea and it’s working out good.between the video and comments I’m all sorted out.
Awesome! thanks for the comment, glad to hear the video helped. I had the dryer 3 years, never had an issue with it once.
You did a wonderful job and you make me smile at the same time I really enjoyed watching you do that good luck on your next project
THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO POST
Thanks for the comment 😎👊
"It works! No sparks or electricity coming out!" LOL I didn't see any puddles of electricity coming out all over the floor, Great job, no leaks! Yah!
Thank you for mentioning where to get it
Good video. Just an FYI they make a heat shrink connector. So you don't need electrical tape an a hair dryer, heat gun or if your desperate a lighter will shrink it down tight around the wire.
The heat shrink is not a good idea if the wire warms up for what ever reason.
After searching and searching finally the video i was looking for. The comments about connecting the white wire to the ground screw is good to know but my dryer did not have this white wire or a strip don't know if it got lost or removed when someone else installed the dryer previously or for whatever the reason it is not there and this video shows what to do if you don't have that wire,so THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO.
Is the white wire found on the back of ALL dryers? Or only on new dryers? On another note, I'm disturbed by the amount of confusion that exists about this, and the number of times an expert has had to chime in here. The industry still has some catching up to do.
You did awesome!
My only question is... When you were growing up, did you watch a lot of South Park? ;-)
You did it correctly.
This was a great video, very helpful. Thank you!
Omg thank you 🙏🏿 you didn’t even consider your self a professional but I went thru a lot of video of them not putting the white cord in the middle omg thank you bless you
Well done
Thank you :)
Thank u so much it was very helpfull and funny... I was able to do the same thing so thank u, Im still alive 😅
Go girl!!!! Bravo!!!
Go directly to the point.
Fast forward 😉
Y'all stop the video at 16:53. If you look at the top of the center terminal you can see it (IS) the white wire (it loops behind the metal). So instead of looping it to ITSELF which is what is done by hooking the white to the bottom of the terminal it's already hooked to. Just hook it to the chassis or body of the dryer. (The green ground screw). In this case the green wire (she made) can be removed and take the white wire and hook it to the upper left green screw. No big deal but you didn't need to make the green jumper wire out of your 4 prong that you may need when you move.
Thanks a lot for the video. It cleared some questions I had. Keep it up :)
Helpful info, just wish she would cut down on the number of times she says mmmm-kay! I had to turn it off before it was over.
You could always mute it too...mmm kay 😉
The white wire is called the "neutral", if you had examined the inside of your service box, you would see that both the ground (green) and the neutral (white) both attach to the bus bars that go to ground. They are both the same but code requires all the white (neutral) wires be on their own bus bar and the ground (green) wires be on their own bus bar. You did NOT have to cut off the green wire, it could have been screwed to the chassis (the hole in the the metal box, along with the eyelet of the white wire. It would not be a problem. You don't need to cut wires off. I applaud you for DIYing your electrical, but you need to learn more about wiring procedures for home electrical services.
I agree, thank you for sharing your expertise, I know it will help others 😎👊
Hey man, question, I replaced my heating element. When I plug everything back up, the back of the dryer sparked and jumped the fuse box in the garage. The machine would turn on without popping but only when you ran the dryer cycle, is when it popped. I couldn't not figure out what is causing this but noticed the heating element coils are touching the wire that runs to the sensor on the heating element. Could this touching of the coils be short circuiting the dryer? Never had an issue breaking down the dryer until I replaced the heating element.
Awesome, thanks
You are amazingly awesome!
Thank you for your video so much
Thanks everything is well explained
Thanks for making this video. I assumed the 4th wire had to be a ground wire...... what else could it be? I live in an old house (about 40 years old) and the dryer connection has the old 3 prong outlet. I was not for sure if I would need to get that old outlet re-wired. I actually have never bought a new dryer and did not know if you could even buy the old 3 prongs anymore.
HI, i have a kenmore 796.813 dryer. I have installed the 4 prong power wires. However there is a white and a yellow/green wire that I removed and i cant remember where it was connected.. Can you please assit me? thank you. Currently the 4 prong is connected with the green wire to the ground white to nuetral, and red on red , and black on black. Im missing the white neutral and yellow/green wire. thank you
The white wire is the ground, hook it to where the green wire was, and you would be good to go.
Thank u that is what I am confused about
Thanks for making this video. I assumed the 4th wire had to be a ground wire...... I mean, what else could it be? I live in an old house (about 40 years old) and the dryer connection has the old 3 prong outlet. I was not for sure if I would need to get that old outlet re-wired. I actually have never bought a new dryer and did not know if you could even buy the old 3 prongs wire anymore. what is still confusing to me is why you need 4 prongs? Since the 3rd prong on a 3 prong is also a ground. Maybe it's better to have extra ground because of the higher AMP and voltage of the dryer outlets? Or just as a backup? But, that makes sense that you can just run a wire from the 3rd ground to the 4th.
Should have upgraded the receptacle, instead of dangerously downgrading the dyer's safety....
Isn’t that what the white wire is?
New 2022 GE model has no screw either, a hole it appears
Mind blown, the middle terminal and the wire mounted to the body is the same wire. Who ever hooked the 4 prong was wrong also. Taking the ground off and putting it on the middle terminal takes the ground off the body. That white wire is supposed to be on the body.
Thank you for the comment Gee 😉
Gee... Sorry, but the original 4-wire configuration was totally correct as wired, and it reflects the primary reason that the industry evolved from 3-wire to 4-wire for dryers and ovens. In today's homes, neutrals (whites) must remain isolated from grounds (greens or bare copper) at all locations other than at the first electrical panel, typically your main panel. That smaller white wire is actually electrically connected to the center terminal (neutral) up inside the dryer, so the original electrician was simply connecting the small white wire back onto itself, thus preventing it from inadvertently contacting a hot wire or the dryer cabinet. Connecting the green wire to the cabinet grounds the latter while still maintaining isolation between ground and neutral, in conformance with today's version of the Nationl Electrical Code. Contined use of the less desirable 3-wire plugs is a concession by the NEC to avoid having to rewire tens of millions of dryer and oven receptacles in older homes.
@@josephknapick5307 sorry but you sound good, but you don't know what your talking about. That white wire is a harness that grounds to every panel in the dryer. by unplugging it your just taking the ground off of one of the most important panels- the metal box itself. fortcollinshabitat.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC04216.jpg
No Gee... While you are correct that the white pigtail is indeed connected the the center (neutral) terminal, in a four-wire configuration connecting both the green wire and the white pigtail to the cabinet grounding screw violates the NEC. Ground and neutral are only permitted to be bonded together at the the "point of first disconnect", which is typically the main service panel in most homes. Downstream of that location, neutrals must be kept isolated from grounds. The NEC tolerates an exception to this rule for three-wire dryer and oven receptacles to avoid mass rewiring of homes that only have legacy three conductor 240 volt receptacles at these locations.
Experienced electrical engineer here with a copy of the 2920 NEC Handbook on my coffee table. If you also have a copy I can send you "chapter and verse" references if you need them...
@@josephknapick5307 you obviously don't work on machine, or you would know that ground wire not only is bolted to the body throw-out the machine, so plugging it into itself is counter-intuitive. neutral and ground are always connected together. Those rules were being enforced until people realized that there paying all this money to change over there wall terminal and pigtail for no good reason at all. they were so hard up on making people change there terminals, Whirlpool even came out with a dryer that the 4 prong was built into the harness. That was wrong, but what ever makes an extra buck. So now the rule is in the book, but not being enforced, because it's a BS guideline .
All you had to do was run that white wire and put it where the green one went from the 4 wire cord
I didn't know that at the time, which is part of the reason for the video. There have been a lot of alternative suggestions in the comments which was the point since I knew this probably wasn't the best way to do it, but it's what I did with the information I had, and it's worked. Based on my research before this project, and the various comments, it seems there are many opinions about the best way to do this, I simply presented one and gave the opportunity for others to share their methods, which includes you. 😊 Thank you again for your comment, it's helpful.
(And thank you for deleting your other comment - you'd be disappointed in my kitchen skills anyways 😉 and my nails usually have dirt under them)
@@lizg8934 you did wonderful in my opinion, and I'm about to do exactly what you did, 2+ years since u made the video and it's working still. I trust you lol
@@anthonytonar5365 thank you 😊
No one should be creating any new grounds. Your playing with 240 volts
And 30 amps. No electrician should
Encourage anyone to do that.if I were
You i would get someone who knows
What they are doing .
All she had to do is turn off the breaker which I'm sure she was smart enough to do. Other than buying a new cord, however, I'd have swapped out the 240VAC outlet. Of course that's even more dangerous and when we do this in our new rentals we purchase, the entire breaker is popped entirely out first. You are right, though 240VAC is extremely dangerous and lethal
This works. Many electricians have done this instead of pulling a new wire. I should know. I’m an engineer. I agree right and regulations matter. Before the new rules. All dryers ran with 3 wires. A fourth wire going to the same pole in the breaker box does make a better circuit. I think she is awesome for doing her homework. The info she got was from a 20 year veteran electrician. Bash all you want to. This works and it is safe.
how has it been since your installation? Any shocks?
I'm about to do this same solution in about an hour...
@@bromporke Should have upgraded the receptacle, instead of dangerously downgrading the dyer's safety....
BTW, Since most homes have a ground wire already, it would have been easier than what she did anyway....
@@nc3826 I just saw a ground wire coming off a grounding pole in the garage so I'm gonna attach that instead.
There's no ground wire coming out of the old recepticle so I can't really change to 4 prong easily.
@@bromporke that is why the old receptacle would need to be replaced, since it uses the white common wire also as the ground...but there is usually a bare/uninsulated or green wire that is "not used" by the old receptacle to upgrade it to a new safer 4 prong receptacle... and search youtube posts on how to do it...good luck....
Liz, my turn
Thank you
I did just as you said Ann's that was wonderful. Then I read the labelon the dryer that said outta illegal to wire the neural to ground on mobile home, park trailer or RV. Guts what? It works without the jump lead. Who knew?
Sorry i didn't prof read.the label said (it's) illegal. All that sweat and tears for naught. But after it all I felt accomplished anyway.
🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲♥️♥️♥️♥️🌎🌎🌎🍓🍓🤪
Liz made me fan when she hit the green jumper wire with a hammer.
How many would like to see the woman behind the sexy voice?
Just curious......
Thank u
Completely illegal and maybe unsafe.
I'd recommend removing words "ground wire" and "SAFETY" from your title. You're not adding ground, and you're not making the dryer any safer.
Electricity is involved
Marry me!
She probably likes being alive tho
OMG, before making another video please buy yourself a tripod for your camera or get someone to video for you! I got extremely dizzy watching this. Thanks for the useful information but this video could have been much shorter with a little more forethought.
video was fine for me. Might get yourself checked out
Too many people find any reason to complain. It's free helpful informatio. My apologies, but I don't get it.