3D Printing Just got that much EASIER
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 16. 06. 2024
- In this video I wrap up everything into one easy to follow video on the 3D printing process from A to Z.......start to finish. This is how I go about making these awesome models.
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Check out some of the items I used in making this plus my other models. Use these special links at no extra cost to you, plus they help my channel out.
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#3dprinting #3dprint #resinart - Jak na to + styl
This stuff is God sent!!!! Man, so many cool information in one video!!! I will make sure to share it as much as we can, man. It will help tons of people! Lots of love, my dear Henry!
Thank you guys for the awesome models to print and paint!
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Excellent video!! I always learn something new when I watch. You print out the coolest kits!!
Thank you for every video. I review each one several times and learn how to color the models. Unfortunately, many materials are difficult to find in my city and they are very expensive, but everything works out. I wish you success.
Thank you for sharing such valuable information, happy printing.
This is amazing, this is the only reason I want to do 3D printing
I get so much out of your videos and I been doing this stuff for years! Keep up the excellent work man!
Thanks, will do!
This was an awesome upload thank you!
And thank you for watching đ
Big, bigger, huge and after The Creative Collector đ, I like your prints, you are a Master!!!
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Awesome video. Thanks to your previous video I saved a bunch of money as I got brave enough to go with significantly thinner walls. Only thing I would add to your video for someone new is that alcohol is optional. You can use Simple Green or Mr. Clean for cleaning just as well to avoid the IPA.
DUDE! Thank you SOOOOOOO much for this video. You have saved me time and money, I am new to printing and I did not know about the drain holes and how to save resign by not making them solid. Thank you soo much and you have a new subscriber!
Sounds great! Good luck on your 3d printing journey!
Looking forward to having a go at this medium of artđ
Be careful. Its very addicting! lol
Very cool , I love this , and how you are presenting the ideas and making it work , so the nay sayers can figure it out lol
Your advice on wall thickness eliminated my warping issues. I thought thicker walls meant stronger prints but didn't account for the possible warping or shrinking that comes with it.
Plus, I'm saving a TON of resin now.
Hell yeah! That's what I like to hear! Keep it up and happy printing!
Great video. Had only hollowed out down to 3mm. Good to see you can get such good results at 1.8mm with the infill. Thanks again.
Thank you! đ€
I always learn new thigs from your videos keep up the good work!
Awesome, thank you!
Another great video đđ
Thanks again!
Awesome, Iâm going to try this stuff out. Iâve had issues hollowing models and getting clean prints that donât have a million bumps from the supports!
Sounds good. Let me know how it goes!
Very very interesting video
See this is why I love this channel all of this is no use to me now but I've learned most of this from from ur videos just wish I had the time to paint now got two models that I need to do needs prep work doing just lack of time ATM but ur channel is perfect and keep up the epic stuff bro
Thanks for the kind words đ
@@TheCreativeCollector no thanks needed you have saved my ass a few times with videos the pastel video really helped me step up my prints I have 0 control for fine details with shading with the air brush so the Pastels worked great for that trust me if anyone asked who to go to for info and tutorials ur the guy now all you need to do is get that shelfs numbers down your collecting prints again đ
Very happy to see someone else's Wash and Cure is not as clear either. lol.....good stuff!!!!
Oh man its been to hell and back, but still working strong!
This is actually a great chitubox tutorial, you should call that out in the title. One issue I've had is drain holes. for my first SEVERAL prints, I didn't understand that you need drainholes. Drain holes are still a little difficult for me because I work with models that really don't have good places for holes.
maybe you can take a look in the piece and select a hiden part and put the drain hole but select the option "keep the hole" selected, and after the print and clean, you can put the lift hole back and cure.
This is what I do here when I see that is not possible to make drain holes in the piece.
anothwer great video. id love to see some FDm vids eventually. I like to mix FDM and resin when I can for both cost and durability, especially on bases.
Yep. I'll be doing some FDM stuff in the near future.
I've been printing wickeds and other pre supported models in 5.2.2 pro lychee no bother and same with LAs Turtle's same in the mono 2 printing no bother so maybe lychee has finally sorted this out for us!
woohoo like number 100 :)
That's awesome đ
exactly what i'm looking for! I've done 6 prints with my new elegoo jupiter and have had 6 failed prints and I'm glad you mentioned pre-supports because the models I'm printing are pre-supported for chitubox. I just went through your process and added supports myself with similar settings you presented here. I have my print running right now, so hopefully in 6 hours we will have a perfect print!
Awesome. Hopefully it turns out great. Keep us updated!
@@TheCreativeCollector just woke up to see the print went further then before but still failed. I'm going to try to increase bottom layer exposure time and increase support density and give it another go.
@@TheCreativeCollector update print successful!
Awesome!
Hot water and Dawn dish soap, take them supports off like butter!
Hi friend. Im from Brazil and love your Jobs.
I'd like to thank tou for all support. Sorry about my english. :â -â )
Awesome man! Do you have any recommendations, or thoughts on magnets for alternative heads/parts?
Magnets are great. I though about doing a video on them since a lot of people have been asking.
nice
Thanks
Hey Great work! Thanx for sharing. Is Rich Opto the resin you are using? and if so how durable you would say it is considering your walls are only 1.8mm
I do use that resin and it's pretty solid at that thickness. It's got a good smooth surface on their resin.
I love your printing videos. Everytime you talk about it, you never mention islands. Auto Supports leave all kinds of islands in my experience. How often do you clean your vats?
See....I pretty much never have islands. I make sure my vats are clean from debris but I rarely empty them unless I have a failure.
This video has helped me so much. I got a Saturn 2 and had issues from the start, finally realising it was a vat issue and have to get a new vat. Once that vat comes Iâm going to take what I have learnt from this video into practice. Thank you so much for this, going to go subscribe to your patreon now!!
Thanks Steve! I'm glad it helped you.
Nice! Where do yâall get your models?
All kinds of patreons including Wicked3d as well as others on different Facebook groups.
This is exactly what I needed! I do have one question though. When you scaled the chest up to 150%, do you scale everything that high? Example, the arms and everything would go up to 150% and fit well? I tried that with something else and it didn't work, but it was also my print, so definitely not Wicked style statues lol.
Yes, when i scale something up, I scale it all that way. Everything fits together no problem.
Which printer would you suggest for the price? I plan on doing nothing bigger than the bust of Wolverine you had to start out and if I really get into it maybe some bigger stuff. What is the best quality for the best price in your opinion? I also plan on building a UV box like you have and then for cleaning I might use the anycubic, but I'll have to wait and see. Or would you recommend doing filament printers to start out?
Check out the Elegoo Saturn and Anycubic Photon mono X. They're dirt cheap right now with good build volume
Iâm new to this, and I live in the u.k, what glue should I use to glue my resin models together with, getting a lot of mixed comments what should and shouldnât be used, tia
The best I've used is a 2 part epoxy from BSI Industries.
Hello there! I have been FDM printing for awhile now and looking into Resin printing. Do you have any recommendations regarding dealing with fumes? That is my primary concern at the moment. Great videos!
I use a couple of air purifiers and an extracting fan. Unfortunately no matter what you use you will have some fumes.
Great video and I can't help but feel like I know you if funny how that happens LOL as I said great video and thanks for the tips. I'm still struggling with slicing I'm into lychee prem. but I feel like I just need to understand Chit a bit better and it maybe a better slicer. I see it is your choice and looks like you have a but of a clue so I do some more research. đThomas over at The Model Hobbyist
Thanks, man. I really appreciate the videos. I wish I had this a few months ago when I got started - So. Much. Wasted. Resin!
I think everyone goes through that in the beginning! lol
@@TheCreativeCollector experience is the most effective but often the most expensive tutor. Another that has also helped me is printing at even a slight angle to minimize flat surfaces that may result in vacuum.
Yes! Never print a flat surface. Always angle. Doing that together with drain holes helps with that suction.
Nice one ! Helps a lot . Can you help and share with me what settings do you have on Anycubic Mono X ? Thanks in advance!!!
Send me a message in Instagram and I'll help you out.
@@TheCreativeCollector i just did and thanks Wicked for the video recomendation.
Hi what doftware are you using for slicing?
I use Chitubox
What do you do with the alcohol once it can no longer be used? BTW, great informational video! I'm looking at getting a 3D printer and videos like this are very helpful with figuring out how I want to go with it.
There's a waste control station where I live so I gather up large batches in a barrel and they pick it up for removal.
@@TheCreativeCollector I will have to see if there is one around in my area then. If not, I'll probably go with a filament 3D printer then. I do like how resin prints though. Very well detailed.
Hey,
Thanks for the video and intructions... it was very helpfull... I'm watching all your videos!
QUick question..
I saw this model in specific, chitubox shows that it will take 16h51m to print. I know the printer never print in the same time slicers inform. But, in my case here, Chitubox shows 16h to print and the printer took more than 30 hours to get it printed. (I'm using an Anycubic Photon M3 Max) and the config that I'm using is: Exposure time: 3 - Lift Distance: 10 - Lift Speed: 240 - Bottom Exposure time: 40 - Layer Height: 0.03 - Retract Speed: 360. Can you explain or tell me if this is normal or there is something wrong? (The printer config is the default generated by Chitubox profile).
Thanks!!!
It really depends on the printer. The times are never the same unfortunately. I would check with the model of the printer and find out what settings it has in the firmware.
Wish I had seen this video so long ago. So much info just laid out in plain speak. Fantastic.
I do have a question about it though. I thought conventional wisdom was to tilt the model on the plate, and then add supports. How come you didn't do that here?
I've actually noticed in quite a few of your videos you print straight up and down. Is it because those layers aren't big enough to cause too much suction? Or is there some other method to your madness?
Because I've been tilting all my models, and then supporting them, and if that's not really that necessary, I'm gonna be kind of bummed that I've wasted all that time..lol.
I'm glad I saw the Wiked link to your videos. They're super informative for sure, so thank you!
Thanks for the kind words. As far as your question, I usually do angle the pieces rather than put then straight. I sometimes put then straight when I'm trying to either fill up the build plate or just depending on the size or piece itself.
Where did you get that large UV light for the tub đ
I got it off Amazon for like $40.
by selecting auto supports ALL, aren't you getting supports added to the inside of the model on the infill structure??
Nope. The program knows not to add them once you add the infill
@@TheCreativeCollector oh great to know, thanks!
How do you slice up a model to keep the samesize and scale but to print in pieces (
arms, torso, head, legs)
If I have to slice a model I use Meshmixer
Holy crap! 20 density? I was having issues at 70!
I just recently bumped it up to 30 and it's even better.
Hey man, i got into resin printing 6 month ago , my question is where can I find the best GI Joe and Transformer models? I started with miniatures for my gaming hobby but I wanted to start a collection like yours ... Amazing work and great videos thanks.
Thanks! I'm also into the Joes, and I got a few models from Megs Empinado but he's been busy and hasnt made any more. Hopefully he continues the line. Now Transformers? I have no idea. Try cgtrader or Cults3D. Those are tough to come by it appears.
@@TheCreativeCollector Thanks for the help, and I'm glad its not just me having a hard times with Transformer sculptures. Keep up the good work!
Check out Sanix 3D as well. I think he has an Optimus đ
Are those Punisher as Captain America statues behind you? Do you mind if I ask where they came from?
They probably are. I have several. Most likely I printed and painted them or they came from Sideshow or some company like that.
damn dude you need to change the alcohol in that wash station haha
Haha I know but it gets like that after like 2 or 3 cleanings.
Excellent, there ar extra steps you could have talk, like safety and best resine brands, 3D printer brands you have used or recomend, but great video.
This is more geared toward the process and not necessarily on the resin brands since everyone has their own preference. As far as safety, that's a whole other video.
Iâm Brand spanking new to 3D. Sorry for the dumb question, Could I make 1/6 models smaller rather than the size they come I
Yes. Just downsize the percentage in your slicing software.
I love your videos, I take so much from them. Hopefully my channel can get this good.
I'm sure it will my friend. Just keep grinding!
What do you use to glue all the pieces together? Just normal super glue or E6000?
I use 2 part epoxy from BSI Industries
@@TheCreativeCollector thanks for the quick response!
yep, i've gotta upgrade to a resin machine.
So in CB, after putting in the auto supports, using these settings, I get a lot of RED under the model. Sorry, new to CB, does that mean I need to ADD a bunch of supports? Or is there an auto-edit feature? Thanks, guys!
Try the auto supports. I think the red is an indicator that you need supports in that area. I always use auto
Man Iâve been struggling with supports. I can do FDM all day long but Resin is kicking my ass. The way you do it make it so simple. Iâm gonna give your way a try. If it works on my Saturn S. Iâm gonna kick myself đ
Question tho, Iâve been using lychee before I couldnât get used to the free ChituBox until I when with the Pro version. Can you explain why Lychee doesnât like pre supported files? Iâve printed a base that was pre supported from Wicked and i donât know what Iâm missing. Again Iâm new to resin printing. Iâve used pre supported lychee files but Iâm sure those will work.
What I find with Lychee is that the pre supports cause distortion issues and the slicer shows imperfections within the model due to the supports. Plus when you try to enlarge the file, the supports done always increase with the file. Thats my experience, plus I've heard other having issues as well.
Its not that lychee doesn't like pre-supports. Its that Chitubox uses a different process for hollowing. That lychee and other slicers can't read correctly. Wicked hollows with chitubox. There what causes the problem.
Do you cure the inside of the model or is putting in in that tub enough?
Sometimes its enough but I like to try and use small UV LED lights sometimes installed through the drain holes.
Where do you get the files from to print? Iâm new and so so lost
I get most of them from different patreons online. I usually have links in the description to most of them.
Who makes the Wolverine file that was shown at the end?
Alvardo Stuardo is the designer
@@TheCreativeCollector thanks for the info. Your videos are such a HUGE help.
Please allow me to be your padawan...lol..teach me.
Whatâs your best advice for hollowing? I try it and always fail, if I donât hollow perfect prints?
Check out the video I did on hollowing. I hope that helps.
@@TheCreativeCollector is it bad to print without hollowing?
I mean you can, but you'll use a ton of resin plus your prints will most likely split or warp. If it's a small piece then those will be fine. I print small pieces solid all the time. You just don't want to print big pieces solid.
@@TheCreativeCollector thanks will keep this in mind
Where did you get the electronic file in the back?
Which one
@@TheCreativeCollector the classic look one behind you at beginning of video
I have a Ender 3 and a Ender 5 plus. I want to get into life size prints. I was wondering what's the largest resin printer I can get that's less than $5k
You can get quite a big one for that budget. The Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K is pretty much the largest out right now for around 2k
@The Creative Collector and to do life size of say a human, slice model in sections? I never see life size resin models on CZcams. Only filament.
Do you ever feel like you need to use UVTools?
Not really. Sometimes I think people overcomplicate the process, so I just try and keep it simple.
How do your models manage to stick at 20% support? I've had a few that worked with it but now my stuff constantly falls off mid print. Various results on 100, 50, and 35% scale prints but still something always falls regardless of orientation. I've even had fails at 50%+ supports. Any tips to look for? 2 examples is the manhunter cape, and aquaman body has failed multiple times.
I've always printed my models at 20% and they worked. One reason is because I don't print them so thick like some people. I've seen some people print like 3mm thickness and it's just too heavy and falls from the support. It also depends on exposure times and plate orientation. I wouldn't really know how to answer that without seeing your settings and things like what printer and resin you're using.
@@TheCreativeCollector mars 3, elegoo abs gray, 35 bottom exposure, 2.8 from then on. However I think it may be related to hollowing now that you mention it. I'm curious if you've gotten the message "fail!Not hollowed out or too deep to dig"? I get this on smaller pieces no matter the setting.
How thick is your print? A 5mm hole depth should be plenty to dig in.
@@TheCreativeCollector same as yours, but for some reason I get issues where it won't dig holes on a lot of areas depending on the piece. Most sections are fine, which is why it's so weird to me. Mainly print at 50%. I know it's difficult to answer without seeing but as your videos have been extremely helpful since buying a printer I thought maybe you have experienced this.
This is great but everything u printed was straight up how would u print lets say an arm or leg and how do ur supports not leave and holes
It would print no different. You would just have a few more support divets to remove.
@@TheCreativeCollector how do u get no issues with supports wish I can show u mine so u can see what I mean
You can message me on Instagram. Send some pics over there
@@TheCreativeCollector awesome will do tomorrow thanks
I love the way resin prints look compared to ones made by fdm printers but its so messy. Having to wear gloves, masks and have proper lighting conditions seems like a lot.
It can be but once you get going it's not so bad.
im using a LD-002H with siraya tech fast resin navy grey and my normal exposure is 1.5s perfect exposure and bottom layer @ 20s and i end up with bottom splits what am i doing wrong?
You might want to increase your exposure times.
@@TheCreativeCollector will sanding the build plate also help? I never sanded my plate
It could
@@TheCreativeCollector how do you calibrate your printers I have a 2k monochrome
Try printing off a calibration cube. That'll help
aren't u afraid that the resin will splash off when u are taking the supports?
No I don't have that issue
What about curing inside the model? Nothing was mentioned about that.
You can use small uv LEDs to fit inside the drain holes. Most of the time I print in 1.5mm to 1.8mm and it doesn't require to cure inside because it cures all the way through
@@TheCreativeCollector Yeah I was just watching your curing video and you responded just as I got to that point. Also, the no supports inside is a huge game changer for me cause I've always had them and then struggle to get them out. I've gotten into using Lychee more than Chitubox and find it's doing a better job for me so I'll make sure to remember that for the next print. Currently I have a Dental light to shove inside my models but that requires large holes.
Thanks by the way!
So you have a 26 step process? A-Z
It's a figure of speech. Doesn't necessarily mean that it's 26 steps. Could be 32, who knows.
I love your channel and videos. Very Informational. I have a suggestion, Can you please turn off that portrait video on your phone that you're recording with? looks horrible. I rather look and all those figures in the background than this blurry mess
Yeah I stopped recording like that a while ago.
@@TheCreativeCollector yeah i guess I'm watching many of your old videos.. đ Great content âïž
Hello, what typeo of Resine do you use, is it safe or is it very irritating as we have seen other resines to be dangerous, why you did not usedd a mask to handle the resine ore eye protection any time? why you did not used ice after you finished? ... I leave overseas, probably customs won't allow me to buy the resine and bring it.... it might be dangerous, If I can't find it locally, it might be a problem.
I use a few different resins but mainly Sunlu or Elegoo. You don't need a mask for the resin but I do use one for the alcohol cleaning (as demonstrated in the video) and you don't need eye protection unless you're splashing it or bathing in it. And if you do that then you don't need to resin print. lol And I'm not sure why I would use ice afterwards.
No offense, but whats with all that blur around you? You couldn't even properly show off those huge models in your hands because they were all blurred out. Whatever blur effect ur using on your videos, turn it off please. It's horrible and it ruins the experience.
Noted â ïž
I was wondering if you sell any of your models? Do you have a ebay store?
No I don't sell anything at the moment. Sorry
@@TheCreativeCollector Bummer! đąđ
Best beginners video I have seen very well done. đđ
Damm seems so simple and it is. But in my case its been a nightmare. From 22 prints, 20 fails 2 success.
I gave my Saturn S to the support guys from the company I got it. They checked and it was ok, plus printed 2 objects perfectly.
I copied their settings and printed perfectly the first time and then again 6 fails. Tho, noticed that the platform wasnt in the correct position so it might be the screws of the platform cuz it unlevels without touching anything.
Moreover, I already leveled the bed 27 times since I got my printer (August) and wasted 2kg of resin đ„Č.
Man I know thats discouraging. I went through similar issues when I first started. But after tweaking things here and there I finally got my printers dialed in. Just keep doing research and watching what others are doing that works.
@@TheCreativeCollector Dont worry Im stubborn af so I wont quit.
Watching your videos are motivators.
Its just that I want to solve those problems and finally start printing 24/7 without sending a prayer every single time and still get fails đ€Ł
Well I hope this video helps some. Start out with a calibration print and work from there. Start small and when you have your setting dialed in, then move forward. Bigger and better prints are right ahead of you!