A different way to pour concrete in this 40X56 pole barn.
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- Another time and money saving tip when you pour concrete floors in a pole barn. This barn has radiant heat and a trench drain down the middle. It was also spray foamed under the concrete right on the tamped gravel. We worked with the home owner and he built it in a way that made our life a lot easier when it came time to do his concrete work. He will be heating this building with a wood boiler. Let me know in the comments what you guys think. Thanks for watching.
This is exactly how we pored my floor for my two story shed floor with a big mud drain for my Snap On Tool Truck with plenty of storage for extra tool boxes plus I fixed my walls to be waterproof so I could wash my truck in the winter. When my wife came in with her storage stuff I pointed to the second floor.
Sounds like an awesome shop
We did our 40x60 pole barn floor without the wall metal on. Had the roof on. We did 12w 13ft tall doors so concrete trucks could drive right in and chute it. No radiant heat plumbing to worry about. Nice and easy to finish edges from outside while power trowel does the rest. Nice video
Thanks it is so much easier.
Professionals always make the really hard jobs look easy. You guys are awesome!
Thanks pal.
Thanks for sharing! There’s so much to concrete- thanks for educating us.
You bet. Glad to help.
That is going to be a sweet workshop, thank you for sharing!
Thanks Jim
Nice work. Glad to see a crew that has fun working together.
Thanks Seth. We do enjoy this work.
We build pole barns in central New York, I always pour before the steel goes on,saves a lot of work like you said
Love the banter! Great crew
You guys really do incredible work. My back hurts watching it.
Looks great guys!!! A GREAT finisher always is one handed and a cool beverage in the other for that super smoooooth job..
Ya exactly Daryl. A true pro. LOL
Nice job y'all did there keep up with the good work ur doing and the videos to be safe and be careful
Thanks Andy.
Good information. It is important to have all the trades involved in a project before it starts. I built my first new home in 1978, (I thought I knew what i was doing). Did a lot of work myself, but subbed out the HVAC, plumbing and electrical. The heating guy said he had to come in first, and I believed him. The house was a rectangle, he put the furnace a few feet from the basement wall and ran the heat and return ducts a few inches apart from one end of the hose to the other. The plumber was very unhappy and I had to pay more. The heating guy had run the ducts under the toilet and other fixtures. Now when I build I have all the trades people come about the same time for an estimate or bid. I then have them get each others phone numbers and tell them to communicate with each other on areas of concern.
Its great when we each think of what the next guy needs to do but I also build houses and restore them so Im not just a concrete guy. Thanks for sharing.
You are not "just a concrete guy". You are "The Concrete Guy".
@@bondobuilt386 Too bad you're not closer to Little Falls, I'd ask you for a job, lol.
Turned out great!
Thanks Frank
this is the right way to do it. so many benefits.👍
Thanks Andy. How are you my friend?
I am doing good. 👍
I like how you get excited when the truck shows up lol.
Wish that barn was in my yard. Nice job as always
Thanks Ed
Another good job
Thanks John
_GOOD JOB BIG BISKET _ don't drip water on it! Effervescence! Nice work, BTW great job explaining everything. You hit every point down to the cleaning the blades b4 your last 2 passes
Thanks buddy I try to explain it all.
Nice job on this pour. You have a good team who knows what they are doing. I missed hearing the "bleeps" where they should have been.
Thanks David. I'll try better on the bleeps lol
Rap the bottom of the posts with felt, Looks great!
Here in the UK, its quite common to use a pan, { which just clips to the blades ] for the first pass. It makes flattening any bull float marks a lot easier, as you can get on the concrete a little earlier, without the risk of digging in. It also helps settle the stones and brings fat to the surface like a wooden, or plastic float does. I have not seen anyone in the states using one, are they common over there, or not used?
Done playing this game!! Pour the slab 1st & then build of it. Better for everyone!!
Self evident, actually.
Depending on the county you may be taxed differently, around her it shed inspection prior to floor poor
great video bondo
I've done it like that before makes life easier to finish
It sure does David.
good work.
The last 3 barns we did they came out of the ground with pressure treated about 6 foot and then we poured the floor then after they built the building using a staggered joint and using ruff cut lumber from there up saved us time and them money on 20 foot pt 6x6 the builder sed it was easier to work on a concrete then dirt
Ill bet it was way easier for the builder.
I’ve just decided to build a 40x60 poll barn. It’s awesome that guys like you have posted all these videos, so a newbie like me can see the process.
Do you have any suggestions on how to find the cement crew like yours?
Got too have a good crew to get things done 👍👏
Nice job Bondo
Thanks Dave
We always put air pressure (test) with guages on each heat zone when we pour.
If there's a puncture or leak in any line while pouring, there won't ever be a better or easier time to find out and repair it
Yes some do that. We have never punctured a tube. They are very durable. Its easier to kink them then to puncture them.
The pressure saved my ass. One of the guys did something to a hose. I was able to see it right away and dig it out as soon as it would hold me. I just dug out a 6 by 18 inch trench around the bad spot. Shoved in some rebar to hold the patch. We did the repair the next day.
I WILL NEVER POUR WITHOUT PRESSURE IN THE LINES.
Why would you risk it. You have to pressure test it before you pour (unless your an idiot). Just leave the pressure test run till after the pour.
👍🏼 as long as the builders know the weight limit because fork lift/manlift is needed inside for running conduit and lighting and bummer to crack a line. while back i helped build 60x100 and office space was in floor heating. drive anything industrial hvy duty and look for water leaks.👍🏼 Good Luck
Nice !!!! Commentary reminds of Red Green...
I wish I could cancel the rain :) Good information as always. My wife even watched it! I could never understand why you needed insulation under the in floor heat. Doesn't heat rise? Two new houses were built near each other by the same home owner. The first one had 2" of foam under the slab, he lived in it for a few years and sold it. He tracked his expenses very well. The second one he built was with no insulation under the slab, other than that the two houses were the same. His heating bills were within a very few dollars of each other on the two houses. He said he didn't need insulation under the slab on the second house was that it was a well drained soil. If the soil is not well drained the moisture under the slab can conduct or carry the heat away, Most of the houses we do have 8" of radon rock with draintile under the slab, so a person could save on the insulation.
Thanks for the comments John. I am not sure I would skip the insulation because like you said the moisture would suck the heat out. It is actually code here in New York to insulate under the concrete but we get real cold winters similar to Maine or Michigan. Well draining soil is always a nice thing no matter what.
Sand behaves as an insulator. If this was a dry, sandy soil I could see how foam wouldn't make that much of a difference. However, the wet clay in my area acts like a heatsink.
We have done exactly that way with pole barns
Love the quick pitch handle on the power trowel
Yes that's a game changer
@@bondobuilt386 left the concrete work 35 yrs ago, was 32 yrs old and that quick pitch handle has to be sweet, almost 70 but when things go wrong a good concrete team is what you need to turn things around and get a good job ...
@@jackwillie2729 thanks Jack. We do have some sweet tools to make life easier then when you did it I'm sure it was harder back then. I know it was for me and I'm 51. Lol 😂
@@bondobuilt386 harder, that's right as its still back breaking work, and that coming from a guy who like hard physical labor(I'm 51 also :).
Hope to pour my 32x48 with two 12x48 lean to's in the spring. I also plan to pour with the siding off so I can get right into the lean to's. The main unfortunately will be a bit more work because I only have 12' sidewalls, maybe your culvert trick, or maybe farm it out, we'll see. I've considered pouring the main in 3 sections 10.5' on the outside and then 11' in the middle, doing it in three separate pours as I'm not a concrete guy and don't have a lot of help. Any thoughts appreciated 😃.
Have a great week.
@@brettblack7049 Hi there is nothing wrong with breaking a slab down into sizes that you can handle. I still do that if I can't get enough help.
If you didn't have a pump, what was the hose hooked to when you were pouring the right side of the building.
You just answered the question on my mind: how is it that the wire mesh is sitting on the foam insulation? I guess is a good trade off.
Good way of doing it 👍👍👍🇬🇧uk
Didn't notice, do you use float blades at the beginning?
Where do you buy your buy your pex pipe getting ready to build 40 x 60 building thanks mike
hey bondo , on that job would be cool to show the different heights with the lazor to show the slope after you were done,
just an idea , good looking floor by the way
I will try and do that next time. Good idea.
thanks
Lost my Dad in January, he was a finisher for 40 years....
Nice
Some counties require the barn to be finished & inspected prior to the floor pour or it will be taxed differently.
Hi Ron. Do you have any issues with pouring concrete over a spray on insulation base. I heard once of a builder whose only complaint was it made it hard to estimate quantity which I thought was a poor excuse as it really didn't look all that bad.
What time did it take to pour and surface?
Bondo, do you pull up the rebar/mesh/tubing while pouring? I am setting up to do a 4' slab with radiant heat, if i pull up the mesh I am afraid of cutting the joints and hitting a water line.
Staple the tubing directly to the foam with a foam stapler. Place the mesh or rebar above.
Who do you guys use for concrete out where you were at?
That bull floater is a potty mouth .
Looks real professional in front of customers
so was this pad without insulation board? I'm trying to make a case to myself not to do the insulation under the slab.
No this has 1-1/2" of closed cell spray foam under it. Do yourself a favor and do not skip the foam and do not use some tarp product that claims to work. You will spend a fortune to heat your building and it will not be worth doing the tubing at all. You need closed cell foam board or spray foam under there.
It's the only way we ever did concrete.most of the time as soon as the poles were set before the roof we poured. Just after headers n lower boards were on so nothing moved.
Did you still use a metal mesh under the tubing there?
Yes Jim we did just to hold it
It’s been my experience to pour the slab first then build the structure.
No steel reinforcement used ?
How thick is the insulation under the slab and how deep is it around the perimeter
its all 1-1/2 to 2" thick of closed cell spray foam. The entire slab is 5-1/2" to 6" thick.
Nice to see pros pour concrete a little stiffer than normal. Seems like too many pour it self leveling I always question how that effects strength. Where in. Ny are you? Been nice if he had left lowest purlin off. Cost with out concrete?
Thanks Mark. We like to pour a 5" slump usually. We are in Mexico New York. 45 min north of Syracuse.
what was the difference again? no rebar?
been at it about 40 years worth of pouring. never did a barn with sides on it unless we had a pump. front load trucks only. rarely ever used the float on a floor. to much downtime waiting for the set. get on it with a couple guys knowing what they're doing, and out there in a couple hours after the pour. not waiting a couple hours set time to get on it. not bragging, we put down 900 yrds in one pour with 6 guys. 4" floor, commercial structure with hand finish......8 hours total time. came back on the job 2 days later and cut it by code.
As the floor continues to cure…the pattern will shrink little bit into the floor so in like a week it will look even better. IMO
You can remove standing water with a shop vac way faster than with a leaf blower... LOL
Ya there was no power there at the building sight. Lol
You know mike is a concrete guy with his cooler of "pepsi"
Yes he is. LMAO
I don't really understand what good the wire mesh will have if it isn't embedded closer to the center of the slab.
It is there in this application to hold the tubing in place and keep it from floating up and becoming damaged. We used fibers for reinforcement in these radiant slabs.
The mesh is at the bottom with no undercover, sould be around 50mm in the slab.
I explained this.
Mesh is only there to hold the tubing in place. They used fiber in the cement
Was the mesh on chairs to hold it up?
I was wondering the same thing. Mesh will do little good laying in the sand.
Not one stop was the mex pulled up 😂😅
The wire mesh should at least be pulled up with hooks as the concrete is poured. Properly placed wire mesh holds a slab of dried concrete together, even if the ground underneath settles slightly. Fiberglass strands mainly help keep cracking to a minimum the first few hours of the concrete changing from liquid form to a hard state. After that the fiberglass provides little value in the strength of cured concrete. Also a lot will have to do with how heavy of equipment will be run on the concrete. I did mine with 1/2 inch rebar crisscrossed on 2 ft. centers set on chairs, then wire mesh on top of that with a 7 inch thick pour. Probably overkill on my part but hey!
Oh boy it’s the internet hook patrol again
@@chestercalloway3812 There is no point to mesh if you dont chair or pull it up. Hes just making a valid point. One of my constant arse aches was my placers not caring enough to pull mesh up.
WIRE MESH DOES VERY LITTLE TO HELP CONCRETE. CERTAINLY DOES NOT PREVENT CRACKS. REBAR DOES NOT KEEP ALL CRACKS OUT, BUT PROVIDE A STRUCTUALLY SUPERIOR SLAB THAT WILL STAY TOGETHER. ALSO THE USE OF CHAIRS IS A MUST. THERE IS A REASON AN ENGINEER, BUILDING INSPECTORS SPECIFICALLY SPECIFY THIS ON PLANS. IT IS THE BEST WAY.
@@hankclingingsmith8707 Mesh is absolutely essential if your driving on the Concrete.
@@gregtaylor8327 You can pull the mesh all you want. It won't stay within the bottom 1/3 of the slab unless it it chaired. I will offer to core the slab and bet that the mesh is directly on top of the insulation.
We use a floating pan first then hit it with the blades but that machine looks a little small for that job
Hey Ron how long did you make each run of the radiant heat runs
I think these were 400 feet. Some say stay under 300 but we have been doing up to 500 with no issues.
czcams.com/video/MgAJmah0anM/video.html watch this video bud.
🙋🏼♂️ who is pulling up the wire mesh ?
You didn't pull up the reinforcing wire? Why.
Because it is just to hold the tubing down. The tubing will get damaged if you pull it up. We put fibers in for reinforcement.
what is the price for a pour like this?
No steel??
what would be a ball park estimate cost for this? is it like 20 grand?
?
Your probably not far off
Hey guys, nice job on the floor. Are you trolling with float blades for your final pass?
We used what's called combo blades for the entire floor and the last pass.
@@bondobuilt386 ok I gotcha. I have two machines one with float blades, the other finish blades. You've got a great crew and yourself as and owner speaks volumes. Great job
@@stevesullivan2432 Thanks bud.
How far down is the drain set?
you want like 1-1/2" to 2" pitch to top of drain grate.
I've seen foundations and floors for pole barns poured before any framing was done at all. Nothing at all in the way for the concrete pour, tubing in place, and brackets for the poles placed wet.
Just make sure all the load on the floor during subsequent construction doesn't exceed the strength of the concrete, and that tire tracks and flaws in the floor aren't going to be an issue. Never seen a floor put down first that doesn't look grimy and rough by the time everybody is through dropping stuff and wheeling/skidding their equipment and materials around on the new not-fully-hardened concrete.
What kind of fiberglass fibers did you use?
They were micro fibers
@@bondobuilt386 I'm developing recycled fiberglass strands about 3/4 inch long
Also nice job of stopping just right with power trowles. Alot of guys go alittle too far
Ya it can get slick real fast if you don't know when to stop.
You said you recommend flooding it, what's the reasoning for that?
Concrete will be stronger if wet cured.
How many hours of blowing water around. Charge extra? Why no wet/dry vac? Sump pump? Bill 8 hours for a guy to hold a leaf blower......
Unfortunately that wire mesh needs to be up in the pour not at the bottom. The mesh at the bottom is a waste of money.
If l can ever afford a man cave this size I'll give you a call since your in my Palermo area.
Ok Sounds good neighbor. Awesome.
super pour..im jealous.except for you guys talking funny like youre from another country,its all good! we Missourians dont sound like this
how's type1 foam work under slab?
I am not sure what type 1 foam is. we use closed cell foam under concrete. Definitely do not want open cell foam.
@@bondobuilt386 esp is closed celled right? If the closed celled is rated at 10psi is that 2 little or gud?
Why use mesh if it’s just going to lay on the bottom
Bondo, I wonder the cost of such a nice floor. I am considering a floor for my barn.
I you gotta get these videos uploaded in 1080p or 4k.
We use Zip Strips for crack control in all our floors. Done in one day . That way you can pull mesh.
I tried them once but didn't like them. I should try them again some time.
@@bondobuilt386 They're easier to work with when you use a higher slump. For your 5" slump pours, they're a bit tough to set easily.
@@farmalmta thanks. you run super Plastisizer in your wetter pours?
I know the concrete Company you use how would I get ahold of you for possible doing some work for me
Facebook friend me.
Left the steel off for the pour
Ya it was nice.
@@bondobuilt386 I bet!
I need a shirt that said i dont get enough credit for doing this drunk. LoL
Try spraying WD40 all over your trowels before you start that way it cleans Easyer and your finish had a lot of cat eyes in it, stand your blade up more and keep trowel till it shines unless they didn’t want a shinny finish but yes we normal have the builder leave off the metal.
good tip with the WD 40 This floor was not burnt on purpose that's what the customer wanted. Chris is a profession finisher and he leaves like no cat eyes though.
Looks like Mike's drinking a beer. Do you have insurance and workers comp???
Nice shirt, *TRUST ME I KNOW* 20 FOOT BOARD WILL MAKE A MAN OUT OF U! HE CAN KEEP THAT STICK, IM GOOD W THE 16 _LOL_ great idea though! I've used em just don't like em!
Idk, maybe the (I almost said pump but u use that truck all the time) 20 foot stick is different , ohh yeah getting to pour b4 metal make it easy! Do u own that buggy?
@@GRUBB-MUDD That 20 foot screed is a bear. LOL
8:13 Lmfao :D
You did the floor before the walls were up. At 7:25 don't bend the shuts with your head "LOL"
6:25 the trick is NO SIDING ON BUILDING
Yup saved a lot of work.
my guess is you didn't pull your wire up off your insulation....or the wire is sitting on the tubing. Can't tell from the video
and you responded to my response later in the video🙂
How expensive. Looks like a really thick slab
Put handles on the screed and save a guy. Easier and faster to have just one guy cut the floor.