You found those glasses awfully quick! 😄 But I saw a review where he says it didn't do anything. I think because he didn't move the temperature probe far enough away from the engine like you did.
I've installed one on my little ( 2009 )Yammie WR250R. Smooths out the previously lumpy tickover and low speed jerkiness. I'm a happy punter, Will probably get another for my 2008 BMW F650GS, (the strangely named later model, which is actually an 800 parallel twin) which also runs too lean at lower speeds. (I seem to recall reading somewhere that the very first Booster Plug was actually designed specifically for that GS.)
Thanks for the video chaps - I am a new subscriber. Got my eye on an MT-03 (2008 single 660cc) and never heard of a booster plug, but noticed this has one installed. I did the obligatory research and this helps explain things so thanks alot :-)
I wanted to fit to my KTM Duke 390 , but was declined by my insurance company, any advice re UK motorcycle insurance companies that allow a booster plug??? Cheers Hugh
So the ecu still monitors the intake temperature when in closed loop, running the O2 sensor. The when accelerating or full throttle when swaps to open loop this still reads. ???? As an aside is it only reading the temp where the additional sensor is placed or does it also modify to send a colder temp to ecu. If not why not just move the temp sensor (extend wiring) and blank off hole ? Your thoughts would be helpful. Cheers Brian
Hi Brian, Boosterplug include a lot of information on their website regarding how the product works - www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-how-it-works.html as well as a detailed version if you really want to dig into it - www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-how-it-works-full-version.html which explains things better than we possibly could! My understanding is that the Boosterplug is idle at points where it doesn't need to interfere with the fuel mixture - when the feedback from the Lambda sensor is utilised. The addition of the external temperature sensor on the Boosterplug allows the temperature to be modified in line with the environmental temperature. As I mention, they do a better job of explaining it than I do! If you were to move the temp sensor and blank off the Lambda port, your ECU wouldn't be getting the constant feedback from the exhaust to adjust the mixture, meaning you'd likely be running rich constantly.
@@MotorcyclePartsWarehouse Many thanks. Downloaded the book from booster plug. Have idea now on how works. Just waiting for bike to be returned from dealer, maybe in 2 to 3 weeks. Have 6 month old Honda GB350 (CB350 Hyness in India). Had a metallic knocking when over 2/3 throttle and over 3,700 rpm. Got worse as revs increased. Took back to dealer, then a letter to Honda Australia with print out of short term fuel, never above -8% and as rpm increase up to minus 20%. Hence looking at Booster Plug. Turned out to have had a partial seizure. I am very careful, ran in for first 1,000 ks never over 1/2 throttle and then increased load gradually. I’m almost 80. Think will put booster plug on and if trips code in ECU, clear with OBD Scanner and put in a series of double pole switches. Or a rotary switch. As this bike has Euro 5 and all the latest where ecu checks difference when cooling off. Cheers Brian
@@brianrobertson639 we spoke directly with Boosterplug regarding Euro 5 motorcycles, and they confirmed that due to the new emissions requirements it will give errors/warning lights when installed, but sounds like you have already looked into getting around that. Good luck with your GB350, we hope you get it running right!
@@MotorcyclePartsWarehouse Many thanks for reply. Bike currently in at Dealers waiting for a new barrel and piston. Has had a partial seizure. Interesting to see what caused it following pull down when parts arrive. At this stage I am thinking overheated due to to lean a mixture. In open loop goes to -20% when taps opened. Shall put a CHT on the same as my aircraft. I’m almost 80, not a rev head. Changed oil at 500 ks, 1,000 ks , 4,000 ks and 7,000. Run in never above 1/2 throttle for first 500 the short bursts to 1,000. Besides that ordered a Groom Honda booster plug. And have 3/double pole switches. Will start using booster plug and when finished bypass BP back to normal as bike cools. Failing that with just use OBD2 scanner to delete engine light before service. When up and running will keep you in the loop re CHT difference with and without. Plus open loop readings. Cheers for now Brian Australia
Hi Cecil, Unfourtunately Booster Plug don't actually do one for the 2021 Interceptor Model. I'd drop them an email though, just in case :) www.boosterplug.com/shop/all-royal-enfield-108c1.html
Hi, thanks for the vid. I was thinking about this plug since a while... I have only one concern. There is a thin oilfilm on the cylinderwall which could be washed away if the engine is running rich. Could the Boosterplug have such an effect? Many thanks! Got a thriumph thruxton 1200.
My main issue on my 2012 bmw f800st is when I pull the clutch in and drop the power off the bike cuts out, it doesn't happen all of the times and can be at any speed.. I'm hoping the booster plug will stop this from happening..
Does this work on triumph 2021 1200xc? I heard the new ones have restriction on them and are able to detect booster plugs due to Euro 5 regulations? If I bought my motorcycle in the USA does that effect anything?
Biggest scam on the market next to k&n air filters. You can just move the stock sensor to accomplish the same thing, if you have a bike that even benefits from it?
So remove the sensor from airbox, splice some extra wires to it to reach the front of bike, and don't forget to plug the hole in the air box where the sensor was, you know dust and all. So does this only work on cold days?
From what I gather... The second temperature probe applies a (ambient) negative temperature offset to the ecu input to trick the ecu into thinking that that air temp is lower (greater air density) I.e. more air into the engine so ecu applies a corresponding signal to the injectors to increase fuelling, but only when in open loop control I.e. programmed but with no feedback of its actions from the lambda sensor, so only increases mixture when idling or rapidly increasing or decreasing throttle opening. When at steady throttle and load ecu is in closed loop control i.e. seeing the effect on the lambda sensor to reach desired value of AFR that Yamaha programmed. BTW performance air filters flow more air and increase volumetric efficiency in the same way that free-flowing exhausts, big valve free flowing cylinder heads and performance camshafts increase VE and power. Std air filters are predominantly designed to filter and be quiet, although noisier, aftermarket performance filters can add significant power more cheaply than the heads, cams, exhausts and can be simply fitted by a novice. With the fuel injection system having sensors to measure airflow, it automatically compensates the fuelling to release more power. On older carburetor engines, you wouldn't have seen the benefit of increased airflow until the carbs were re-jetted to suit the better airflow on a dynamometer.
@@neiljarvis8911yes you're right, I took mine apart as it didn't do much when I used my AFR gauge to test it. I opened the booster plug up and it's simply a resistor with the temperature probe in parallel, so as you say it just adds a resistance to the existing temperature signal. It's a very basic unit and nowhere near worth the expense they ask for it.
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You found those glasses awfully quick! 😄 But I saw a review where he says it didn't do anything. I think because he didn't move the temperature probe far enough away from the engine like you did.
I've installed one on my little ( 2009 )Yammie WR250R. Smooths out the previously lumpy tickover and low speed jerkiness.
I'm a happy punter, Will probably get another for my 2008 BMW F650GS, (the strangely named later model, which is actually an 800 parallel twin) which also runs too lean at lower speeds. (I seem to recall reading somewhere that the very first Booster Plug was actually designed specifically for that GS.)
Thanks for the video chaps - I am a new subscriber.
Got my eye on an MT-03 (2008 single 660cc) and never heard of a booster plug, but noticed this has one installed. I did the obligatory research and this helps explain things so thanks alot :-)
Good job guys, nice one!
I was thinking of taking off the Lamba sensor ,if I fit one of these should I keep the lamba on
I wanted to fit to my KTM Duke 390 , but was declined by my insurance company, any advice re UK motorcycle insurance companies that allow a booster plug??? Cheers Hugh
Why ask anyone permission? It's your property?
Hi I was thinking about one of these but I don't have a lambada sensor, will that be a problem? Thanks
So the ecu still monitors the intake temperature when in closed loop, running the O2 sensor. The when accelerating or full throttle when swaps to open loop this still reads. ????
As an aside is it only reading the temp where the additional sensor is placed or does it also modify to send a colder temp to ecu.
If not why not just move the temp sensor (extend wiring) and blank off hole ?
Your thoughts would be helpful.
Cheers
Brian
Hi Brian, Boosterplug include a lot of information on their website regarding how the product works - www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-how-it-works.html as well as a detailed version if you really want to dig into it - www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-how-it-works-full-version.html which explains things better than we possibly could! My understanding is that the Boosterplug is idle at points where it doesn't need to interfere with the fuel mixture - when the feedback from the Lambda sensor is utilised. The addition of the external temperature sensor on the Boosterplug allows the temperature to be modified in line with the environmental temperature. As I mention, they do a better job of explaining it than I do! If you were to move the temp sensor and blank off the Lambda port, your ECU wouldn't be getting the constant feedback from the exhaust to adjust the mixture, meaning you'd likely be running rich constantly.
@@MotorcyclePartsWarehouse
Many thanks.
Downloaded the book from booster plug.
Have idea now on how works.
Just waiting for bike to be returned from dealer, maybe in 2 to 3 weeks.
Have 6 month old Honda GB350 (CB350 Hyness in India). Had a metallic knocking when over 2/3 throttle and over 3,700 rpm. Got worse as revs increased.
Took back to dealer, then a letter to Honda Australia with print out of short term fuel, never above -8% and as rpm increase up to minus 20%. Hence looking at Booster Plug. Turned out to have had a partial seizure.
I am very careful, ran in for first 1,000 ks never over 1/2 throttle and then increased load gradually. I’m almost 80.
Think will put booster plug on and if trips code in ECU, clear with OBD Scanner and put in a series of double pole switches. Or a rotary switch. As this bike has Euro 5 and all the latest where ecu checks difference when cooling off.
Cheers
Brian
@@brianrobertson639 we spoke directly with Boosterplug regarding Euro 5 motorcycles, and they confirmed that due to the new emissions requirements it will give errors/warning lights when installed, but sounds like you have already looked into getting around that. Good luck with your GB350, we hope you get it running right!
@@MotorcyclePartsWarehouse
Many thanks for reply.
Bike currently in at Dealers waiting for a new barrel and piston. Has had a partial seizure. Interesting to see what caused it following pull down when parts arrive.
At this stage I am thinking overheated due to to lean a mixture. In open loop goes to -20% when taps opened. Shall put a CHT on the same as my aircraft. I’m almost 80, not a rev head. Changed oil at 500 ks, 1,000 ks , 4,000 ks and 7,000.
Run in never above 1/2 throttle for first 500 the short bursts to 1,000.
Besides that ordered a Groom Honda booster plug. And have 3/double pole switches. Will start using booster plug and when finished bypass BP back to normal as bike cools.
Failing that with just use OBD2 scanner to delete engine light before service.
When up and running will keep you in the loop re CHT difference with and without. Plus open loop readings.
Cheers for now
Brian
Australia
Loved the video !
Is the booster plug compatible with a 2021 Royal Enfield Interceptor ?
Hi Cecil, Unfourtunately Booster Plug don't actually do one for the 2021 Interceptor Model. I'd drop them an email though, just in case :) www.boosterplug.com/shop/all-royal-enfield-108c1.html
Just wondering if it's waterproof?
Hi, thanks for the vid. I was thinking about this plug since a while... I have only one concern. There is a thin oilfilm on the cylinderwall which could be washed away if the engine is running rich. Could the Boosterplug have such an effect? Many thanks! Got a thriumph thruxton 1200.
Hi Herr, there is no chance of that happening with the Booster Plug. Hope that clears any doubt in purchasing. Have a great day!
@@MotorcyclePartsWarehouse thanks for your quick reply!
No problem! Always here :)
My main issue on my 2012 bmw f800st is when I pull the clutch in and drop the power off the bike cuts out, it doesn't happen all of the times and can be at any speed.. I'm hoping the booster plug will stop this from happening..
Sounds like a clutch adjustment problem to me. Possibly too much freeplay. But them bmws are so complex so i could be wrong.
Does this take the place of a power commander, been thinking about different set ups for my new Delchevic system on my vfr vtec?
Haven’t seen the meme eh…
www.boosterplug.com/images/pc%20teaser.jpg
snazzy
Does this work on triumph 2021 1200xc? I heard the new ones have restriction on them and are able to detect booster plugs due to Euro 5 regulations? If I bought my motorcycle in the USA does that effect anything?
I think this is what happened with my Eu5 husqy701. I think ECU noticed it in 3rd day or so.
Biggest scam on the market next to k&n air filters. You can just move the stock sensor to accomplish the same thing, if you have a bike that even benefits from it?
So remove the sensor from airbox, splice some extra wires to it to reach the front of bike, and don't forget to plug the hole in the air box where the sensor was, you know dust and all.
So does this only work on cold days?
@@bernswonger57 it's not a good idea to mess with it at all. Just get your ecu remapped, and leave it alone.
From what I gather...
The second temperature probe applies a (ambient) negative temperature offset to the ecu input to trick the ecu into thinking that that air temp is lower (greater air density) I.e. more air into the engine so ecu applies a corresponding signal to the injectors to increase fuelling, but only when in open loop control I.e. programmed but with no feedback of its actions from the lambda sensor, so only increases mixture when idling or rapidly increasing or decreasing throttle opening. When at steady throttle and load ecu is in closed loop control i.e. seeing the effect on the lambda sensor to reach desired value of AFR that Yamaha programmed.
BTW performance air filters flow more air and increase volumetric efficiency in the same way that free-flowing exhausts, big valve free flowing cylinder heads and performance camshafts increase VE and power. Std air filters are predominantly designed to filter and be quiet, although noisier, aftermarket performance filters can add significant power more cheaply than the heads, cams, exhausts and can be simply fitted by a novice. With the fuel injection system having sensors to measure airflow, it automatically compensates the fuelling to release more power. On older carburetor engines, you wouldn't have seen the benefit of increased airflow until the carbs were re-jetted to suit the better airflow on a dynamometer.
@@neiljarvis8911yes you're right, I took mine apart as it didn't do much when I used my AFR gauge to test it.
I opened the booster plug up and it's simply a resistor with the temperature probe in parallel, so as you say it just adds a resistance to the existing temperature signal. It's a very basic unit and nowhere near worth the expense they ask for it.