Nice air pistol! In the 1980's used to have an excellent fishing rod & reel made by Shakespeare. Some viewers may not know that Crosman also manufacturered airguns at their factory in Dunnville, Ontario for several years, back in their Golden Age.
Thanks for the very informative video. I have an Ampel Acro Plink-n-Whiz Pistol from July 1969. It seems to be nearly-identical to yours except on the right side under the cocking lever it reads: AMPEL ARMS CO USA. The date code in the right grip contains the numbers 69 plus 7 dots within a circle. The dots are not all the same size, probably due to the depth they were drilled into the date mold piece. The other difference I infer from your video is that the pellet loading port is larger. In this gun, the port on the top of the gun is 0.30 long x 0.25 in. wide, allowing plenty of room for a domed pellet. I'm guessing that you could enlarge yours if you care to. I'd be happy to send a photo of mine if it would help. The pellet opening at the top-back end of the gun completely covers the bolt when it is fully withdrawn. So far, I have not removed any of the interior parts. I know that I need a new seal for the CO2 port; it had deteriorated beyond use. I'll probably look for a thick O-ring that fits. I may lube the valve seat with synthetic motor oil. I use it on any gun part that needs lubricating. So far, I believe it is friendly to most sealing materials.
Yes, your '69 with seven dots suggests a casting date of July 1969. Whether the gun was finished up that same month is unknown. The usual practice with molds is to engrave a year code into it, and each month it gets used a punch adds a dot to the circle around the date - which is why the dots are never even. Some of today's pellets are getting pretty long, and don't fit in the old-school loading ports. The Daisy hollow point just won't fit into my Acro, and the Air Arms Field (16 grain) is a tight fit. Other, more ordinary, dome pellets drop right in.
@@canuckair I have to admit to a massive blunder in my thinking. First of all, I have spent very little time with my Acro 1 pistol, and all of the comments I made above were based upon my erronous assumption that the gun was 0.177 caliber, when, in fact it is 0.22. When I tried the loading port with the .22 pellets I have here, the problem is crystal clear. I did find that I could get the .22 pointed pellet (0.348 long) to load into the bore. This required that I hold the barrel in a vertical position, and drop the pellet, point-first into the loading port. Now, I'll probably find out that getting it out is another matter. I am close to opening it up to check the valve, so that won't be a problem when I actually get to the point of trying to shoot it. I only have one type of .22 cal pellets here, and it looks like they will work.
@@canuckair is it possible for a higher fps with a slightly smaller inner barrel or is that not possible due to it being a steel pellet I only ask because they do it with the .43 and .50cal paintball markers but they use paintballs and rubber balls I’m new to the hobby so I know I may sound dumb but I’m trying to learn and get all the stupid questions and dumb stuff out early to not feel foolish later after doing it awhile and realizing that’s why it’s broke I should have known better.
@@justin77782 Actually I thought you were asking about the outer barrel diameter. The interior bore will be about 5.5mm. No, you don't adjust power by varying bore size. Too tight a bore will increase friction and slow things down. Too large a bore will leak air around the pellet (which is lead, not steel) and also slow things down. The pellet skirt is designed to snugly fit the rifling and seal the bore for most efficient power transfer.
@@canuckair Thank you for the most part that was my understanding of it but in some of the other bigger caliber markers there reducing the inner diameter for example from say it’s 68.7 down to 68.3 for a slightly snugger fit Im not sure if I got it completely but it supposed to build up pressure and then POW ! At least that’s what I thought was happening I kinda understood it with softer ammo types and if it was slightly loose and just closing the gap reducing any space for a straighter higher pressure shot and it made me wonder if pellets and bbs were different because they were more solid or if I’m just sounding really stupid but I won’t know unless I ask so here I am???
Thanks for the video!!!!!!! I actually just scored one of these on eBay, been looking for one for a while. NICE!!!!!!!
Nice air pistol! In the 1980's used to have an excellent fishing rod & reel made by Shakespeare.
Some viewers may not know that Crosman also manufacturered airguns at their factory in Dunnville, Ontario for several years, back in their Golden Age.
Great videos man, keep ‘em coming!!!
thanks man, great disassembly section
I have two of these made by ampell one is a 177 the other is a 22. Does have the s for shakepear on the grip
Now I want an Acro 1
Very nice. Great job saving it from the dustbin.
Thanks for the very informative video. I have an Ampel Acro Plink-n-Whiz Pistol from July 1969. It seems to be nearly-identical to yours except on the right side under the cocking lever it reads: AMPEL ARMS CO USA. The date code in the right grip contains the numbers 69 plus 7 dots within a circle. The dots are not all the same size, probably due to the depth they were drilled into the date mold piece. The other difference I infer from your video is that the pellet loading port is larger. In this gun, the port on the top of the gun is 0.30 long x 0.25 in. wide, allowing plenty of room for a domed pellet. I'm guessing that you could enlarge yours if you care to. I'd be happy to send a photo of mine if it would help. The pellet opening at the top-back end of the gun completely covers the bolt when it is fully withdrawn. So far, I have not removed any of the interior parts. I know that I need a new seal for the CO2 port; it had deteriorated beyond use. I'll probably look for a thick O-ring that fits. I may lube the valve seat with synthetic motor oil. I use it on any gun part that needs lubricating. So far, I believe it is friendly to most sealing materials.
Yes, your '69 with seven dots suggests a casting date of July 1969. Whether the gun was finished up that same month is unknown. The usual practice with molds is to engrave a year code into it, and each month it gets used a punch adds a dot to the circle around the date - which is why the dots are never even. Some of today's pellets are getting pretty long, and don't fit in the old-school loading ports. The Daisy hollow point just won't fit into my Acro, and the Air Arms Field (16 grain) is a tight fit. Other, more ordinary, dome pellets drop right in.
@@canuckair I have to admit to a massive blunder in my thinking. First of all, I have spent very little time with my Acro 1 pistol, and all of the comments I made above were based upon my erronous assumption that the gun was 0.177 caliber, when, in fact it is 0.22. When I tried the loading port with the .22 pellets I have here, the problem is crystal clear. I did find that I could get the .22 pointed pellet (0.348 long) to load into the bore. This required that I hold the barrel in a vertical position, and drop the pellet, point-first into the loading port. Now, I'll probably find out that getting it out is another matter. I am close to opening it up to check the valve, so that won't be a problem when I actually get to the point of trying to shoot it. I only have one type of .22 cal pellets here, and it looks like they will work.
What is the inner barrel made of and I know the pellet is .22 so what is the diameter of the barrel for proper fitting and firing of the pellet
The inner barrel is steel. It's diameter is only 7.8mm (.308") - so pretty skinny.
@@canuckair is it possible for a higher fps with a slightly smaller inner barrel or is that not possible due to it being a steel pellet I only ask because they do it with the .43 and .50cal paintball markers but they use paintballs and rubber balls I’m new to the hobby so I know I may sound dumb but I’m trying to learn and get all the stupid questions and dumb stuff out early to not feel foolish later after doing it awhile and realizing that’s why it’s broke I should have known better.
@@justin77782 Actually I thought you were asking about the outer barrel diameter. The interior bore will be about 5.5mm. No, you don't adjust power by varying bore size. Too tight a bore will increase friction and slow things down. Too large a bore will leak air around the pellet (which is lead, not steel) and also slow things down. The pellet skirt is designed to snugly fit the rifling and seal the bore for most efficient power transfer.
@@canuckair Thank you for the most part that was my understanding of it but in some of the other bigger caliber markers there reducing the inner diameter for example from say it’s 68.7 down to 68.3 for a slightly snugger fit Im not sure if I got it completely but it supposed to build up pressure and then POW ! At least that’s what I thought was happening I kinda understood it with softer ammo types and if it was slightly loose and just closing the gap reducing any space for a straighter higher pressure shot and it made me wonder if pellets and bbs were different because they were more solid or if I’m just sounding really stupid but I won’t know unless I ask so here I am???
It looks like a single shot .22 rimfire pistol.