Hi Trev, I would like to thank you for your videos and knowledge you pass to viewers. I’ve started watching your videos at the start of this year and since then I recapped and restored my old NAD 3020B and then bought and did the same with Pioneer A6 from 1981. Your cleaning method with brushing isopropyl alcohol on pcb and then using lint free cloth with brush to soak it up is brilliant, works like a charm. Thanks again! Raf
Thanks for the feedback. Nice to see you're able to do some projects. The board cleaning is not necessary but it does make the job look a lot better. Be careful with alcohol since it 's flammable
I thought I'd had you foxed there for a little while, Trevor. But like a trooper, you persisted and came through in the end. Very well done and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the excellent, methodical troubleshooting video on this old Marantz. Tuners can be something sometimes; a series of small mistakes caused major problems. Looking forward to the next video, have a great weekend!
(By volume) 50% isopropyl alcohol 25% acetone 12.5% isohexane 12.5% pentane and you end up with a very potent PCB cleaner/degreaser/flux remover. These wrap around the post solid wires can drive you mad in these Marantzes, but other than that - great units and a great job as always !
I have the flux remover in a can and it works great for the stubborn gunk. For everyday cleaning I use 99% IPA and t it works like a charm too, just a bit slower. I try to keep chemicals with a high VOC to a minimum in my shop for health reasons because my ventilation is poor in the room and i'm not fond of getting brain cancer, lol
@@TrevorsBench Just a disclaimer then: it's a formula for at least one, commercially available alcohol PCB cleaner and comes with a long list of safety precautions, so long, it'd probably be outright illegal in the State of California. Pentane is the one with outrageous vapour pressure, so much so, that is best kept in the fridge, alongside remaining constituents, prior to mixing. Isohexane must contain less than 5% of n-hexane isomer, or it would be pretty cancerous, although higher content would also make it unavailable for private buyers. Why go to so much trouble then, well, it cuts the cost in half compared to ready made. You spray the board, place a paper towel against it, then spray the towel and scrub it with a toothbrush, seconds later, even hardened flux ends up on the towel. But you're right, you need proper ventiltion, or it will make you woozy to say the least. Coming back to the Marantz, that little cap grounding the coil is one of the things you wouldnt normally expect - makes it so much harder to trace. Perks of following in somebody's footsteps. Had an SV02 diode in 2235B bias circuit with a cracked lead recently, my predecessor "fixed" with a drop of super glue. Now, once you lifted the leads to measure with a diode tester, it would give correct voltage drop at various current levels and respond well to temperature rise, but once you soldered it back on, it would be intermittent, cue amp grenading itself for no apparent reason. Obviously, the leads were insulated and the diode hidden inside a metal can, placed against the heatsink, so no visual inspection clues. Lost a bunch of transistors and fusibles and a few years of my own life expectancy as a result. Your "It must have worked before somehow" kept me going again. Thank you Trevor !!!
What a basket case of little problems. I did a 2270 not too long ago. Stereo light burned out and a coupling cap went open on the FM stereo module on the left chanel. Other than that it was a straight up recap/transistor/light bulb/vellum paper replacement. Much easier to find old age problems than fixing someone else's mistakes.
No vid this week. I did not do any tables this week, but I did some speakers. Advent 5002, psb avante, and a set of sb-4000. I have way too many speakers these days.
Great video! I'm reworking a Marantz 2330b and the one think I learned it that those wire-wrap connections break easy. I didn't want it to look like a hacked up mess so I bought a manual wire-wrap too so I can do it right. It looks 100% better. I even got a few spools of different colored AVG22 in case the wires were too short. I'm glad I went the extra mile.
Good job, for sure the tech before you should be addressed. Soldering a short like that should be noted by him. One thing I do NOT like about these Marantz LED retrofits is the cold blue light that is even bluer when fit with cold white LED's. I just fitted one with LED's, but I used warm white, AND put in a yellow filter (PVC pipe). Needed to rectify and smoothing too, it is not a plug&play solution. One problem is that the narrow band of light does not contain much yellow, so I needed 14 x 1W LED's (on 1/2W) to get the light through the filter. But, after hours of trying, it shines blue/green now, and that looks much more friendly 😊
I know what you mean. Getting the colour and intensity just right is key. Personally, I prefer the look of incandescent bulbs but we all know they eventually burn out. I don't have much faith in LEDs either because of their high failure rate. I found some transparent filter sheets on aliexpress that comes in a variety of colours. I want to try these filters on some receivers to see how it looks
@@TrevorsBench I just keep LED's in all circumstances below half the rating, and even lower. That is why I don't like the P&P sets. What is a possibility is using incandescent bulbs, but put two fat diodes back to front in the line. That will get them .7V or .8V down at that current, but you will really not notice it in brightness, and will wear them out significantly slower.
I just have to LOL at "audiophile" power cords. 18 gauge power cable can easily handle the amperage pull of a standard receiver. Some vintage power amps came equipped with 16 gauge power cords when they were particularly power-hungry. Most of the internal AC wiring to the switch and transformer is 20-22 gauge. It's just a joke.
When you mentioned that they instaled audio grade capacitos in the power supply board that got me thinking, in what is it good to use the audio grade capacitors i am thinking the audio output boards would be a good place any other ones? Thank you
At 45:00 I was a bit confused. You had tested that paper cap first with the positive on the marked end, then switched to the Fluke hand-held and put the negative wand on the marked end. I am a newbie and just curious...trying to understand.
Sorry for not being more clear. These caps are marked on one end but they are not polarized like a typical electrolytic capacitor would be. The mark on these caps are for the outside foil but their polarity really doesn't matter for testing purposes.
Total recap ok, but why would they use Nichicon FG capacitors as DC filters for the AM/FM tuner? Think "The previous Tech" didn't know where to use different types of caps. And wouldn't you test the receiver after the recap and check that everything works before sending it back to the owner? Lucky that the owner could send it to a real tech who knows how to fix it, including mistakes made by others. "Show me where you've been, and I'll show you where the problems are."
Your attention to detail is a mark of a professional. Thank you for the effort put in creating these videos.
Thanks but I'm not a pro, every job I do i learn something from it, this one was no exception
Hi Trev, I would like to thank you for your videos and knowledge you pass to viewers. I’ve started watching your videos at the start of this year and since then I recapped and restored my old NAD 3020B and then bought and did the same with Pioneer A6 from 1981. Your cleaning method with brushing isopropyl alcohol on pcb and then using lint free cloth with brush to soak it up is brilliant, works like a charm. Thanks again!
Raf
Thanks for the feedback. Nice to see you're able to do some projects.
The board cleaning is not necessary but it does make the job look a lot better.
Be careful with alcohol since it 's flammable
It’s an “industrial appliance”, thus the need for a 12 gauge power cord.😂 Thanks for the video, Trevor!
Great diagnostic instructional video. Enjoyable to watch.
I thought I'd had you foxed there for a little while, Trevor. But like a trooper, you persisted and came through in the end. Very well done and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the excellent, methodical troubleshooting video on this old Marantz. Tuners can be something sometimes; a series of small mistakes caused major problems. Looking forward to the next video, have a great weekend!
(By volume)
50% isopropyl alcohol
25% acetone
12.5% isohexane
12.5% pentane
and you end up with a very potent PCB cleaner/degreaser/flux remover.
These wrap around the post solid wires can drive you mad in these Marantzes, but other than that - great units and a great job as always !
I have the flux remover in a can and it works great for the stubborn gunk. For everyday cleaning I use 99% IPA and t it works like a charm too, just a bit slower.
I try to keep chemicals with a high VOC to a minimum in my shop for health reasons because my ventilation is poor in the room and i'm not fond of getting brain cancer, lol
@@TrevorsBench Just a disclaimer then: it's a formula for at least one, commercially available alcohol PCB cleaner and comes with a long list of safety precautions, so long, it'd probably be outright illegal in the State of California. Pentane is the one with outrageous vapour pressure, so much so, that is best kept in the fridge, alongside remaining constituents, prior to mixing. Isohexane must contain less than 5% of n-hexane isomer, or it would be pretty cancerous, although higher content would also make it unavailable for private buyers. Why go to so much trouble then, well, it cuts the cost in half compared to ready made. You spray the board, place a paper towel against it, then spray the towel and scrub it with a toothbrush, seconds later, even hardened flux ends up on the towel. But you're right, you need proper ventiltion, or it will make you woozy to say the least. Coming back to the Marantz, that little cap grounding the coil is one of the things you wouldnt normally expect - makes it so much harder to trace. Perks of following in somebody's footsteps. Had an SV02 diode in 2235B bias circuit with a cracked lead recently, my predecessor "fixed" with a drop of super glue. Now, once you lifted the leads to measure with a diode tester, it would give correct voltage drop at various current levels and respond well to temperature rise, but once you soldered it back on, it would be intermittent, cue amp grenading itself for no apparent reason. Obviously, the leads were insulated and the diode hidden inside a metal can, placed against the heatsink, so no visual inspection clues. Lost a bunch of transistors and fusibles and a few years of my own life expectancy as a result. Your "It must have worked before somehow" kept me going again. Thank you Trevor !!!
What a basket case of little problems. I did a 2270 not too long ago. Stereo light burned out and a coupling cap went open on the FM stereo module on the left chanel. Other than that it was a straight up recap/transistor/light bulb/vellum paper replacement. Much easier to find old age problems than fixing someone else's mistakes.
So, basically everything that was wrong with the unit was the result of the previous tech's mistakes. But, at least he attached a 12 gauge power cord!
No vid this week. I did not do any tables this week, but I did some speakers. Advent 5002, psb avante, and a set of sb-4000. I have way too many speakers these days.
Master repair! Excellent work!
Great video! I'm reworking a Marantz 2330b and the one think I learned it that those wire-wrap connections break easy. I didn't want it to look like a hacked up mess so I bought a manual wire-wrap too so I can do it right. It looks 100% better. I even got a few spools of different colored AVG22 in case the wires were too short. I'm glad I went the extra mile.
Where did you buy the manual wire wrap? And can you also use them to remove the wire from the post?
Thank you
Good job, for sure the tech before you should be addressed. Soldering a short like that should be noted by him.
One thing I do NOT like about these Marantz LED retrofits is the cold blue light that is even bluer when fit with cold white LED's. I just fitted one with LED's, but I used warm white, AND put in a yellow filter (PVC pipe). Needed to rectify and smoothing too, it is not a plug&play solution. One problem is that the narrow band of light does not contain much yellow, so I needed 14 x 1W LED's (on 1/2W) to get the light through the filter. But, after hours of trying, it shines blue/green now, and that looks much more friendly 😊
I know what you mean. Getting the colour and intensity just right is key.
Personally, I prefer the look of incandescent bulbs but we all know they eventually burn out.
I don't have much faith in LEDs either because of their high failure rate.
I found some transparent filter sheets on aliexpress that comes in a variety of colours. I want to try these filters on some receivers to see how it looks
@@TrevorsBench I just keep LED's in all circumstances below half the rating, and even lower. That is why I don't like the P&P sets.
What is a possibility is using incandescent bulbs, but put two fat diodes back to front in the line. That will get them .7V or .8V down at that current, but you will really not notice it in brightness, and will wear them out significantly slower.
The surge protector is the unit should have a 12 gage wire 🎉
Watched entire thing with no breaks... Zen city - thanks
I just have to LOL at "audiophile" power cords. 18 gauge power cable can easily handle the amperage pull of a standard receiver. Some vintage power amps came equipped with 16 gauge power cords when they were particularly power-hungry. Most of the internal AC wiring to the switch and transformer is 20-22 gauge. It's just a joke.
The Marantz amps are very popular and the prices reflect that.
Because of that power cord, I'm feeling a little more critical. Of course I'm not without my mountain of faults.
Great video. Got a 2245 with a lot of issues!!!!
This sounds like a job for Mr. Carlson's lab
He would take a week to repair it. And then another week talking about everything
When you mentioned that they instaled audio grade capacitos in the power supply board that got me thinking, in what is it good to use the audio grade capacitors i am thinking the audio output boards would be a good place any other ones?
Thank you
SOMETHING .... SOMETHING SENDING LONG VIDEO'S........ REPORTED !!!! IM TELLING MY MOMMY!!! ETC .
At 45:00 I was a bit confused. You had tested that paper cap first with the positive on the marked end, then switched to the Fluke hand-held and put the negative wand on the marked end. I am a newbie and just curious...trying to understand.
Sorry for not being more clear. These caps are marked on one end but they are not polarized like a typical electrolytic capacitor would be.
The mark on these caps are for the outside foil but their polarity really doesn't matter for testing purposes.
@@TrevorsBench Thanks, learning every day with this hobby!
Total recap ok, but why would they use Nichicon FG capacitors as DC filters for the AM/FM tuner?
Think "The previous Tech" didn't know where to use different types of caps.
And wouldn't you test the receiver after the recap and check that everything works before sending it back to the owner?
Lucky that the owner could send it to a real tech who knows how to fix it, including mistakes made by others.
"Show me where you've been, and I'll show you where the problems are."
👍
Switch that does not latch is multipath. They do not latch on marantz
Marantz - the elton john of receivers.
STOP SENDING LONG VIDEOS DAMN IT
Nobody is pointing a gun at your head forcing you to watch the whole thing "damn it"..
Hi Trevor, are you based in Australia ?????
Canada