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Earthworks Proper Benching In and blade wear adjustment
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- čas přidán 17. 08. 2024
- This video will show you how to properly bench in and adjust blade wear on Trimble Earthworks.
*Benching in:*
To bench in, you will need to find a known elevation. This can be a benchmark, a previously benched point, or a GPS location. Once you have found a known elevation, follow these steps:
1. Open Trimble Earthworks and go to the *Work* screen.
2. Press the *Bench Elevation* button.
3. Enter the known elevation and press **Bench**.
4. Trimble Earthworks will now use the known elevation to calculate the elevation of your bucket or blade.
*Adjusting blade wear:*
To adjust blade wear, you will need to measure the distance from the bottom of the cutting edge to the center of the blade bolts. Once you have measured the distance, follow these steps:
1. Open Trimble Earthworks and go to the *Machine* screen.
2. Press the *Blade* button.
3. Enter the measured distance in the *Blade Wear* field.
4. Press **Apply**.
Trimble Earthworks will now use the new blade wear measurement to calculate the elevation of your blade.
If you have any questions about Trimble Earthworks, please visit our website at sitech-im.com
Thanks for the video. I really appreciate your work. I’ve found that grading an area… using a design and then checking where the blade has cut hard(smooth) and then double checking the area with the rover using multiple spots gives the best results. I’ve had intermittent success with a hard benchmark.
When benching in, it's a good practice to get the blade level 0.0% and set on your known solid benchmark. This ensures your receiver is plum over the benchmark. He has his at 1.9% as he benches the right side meaning the receiver is out of plum by 0.266...a slightly elevated benchmark over the ground can also ensure your ability to get the blade level while benching.
awesome video by the way
on the last example do you bench in the other side of the blade as well? also where in the blade does it actually read the grade? at the very end?
Yes I would always spin the blade around and check both side because one side might be worn off more than the other side. Be aware of how the very edge of the cutting edge may be worn down more than the majority of the blade so you may need to check a foot or so in from the edge.
Inside the machine you have the red control point or carrot some call it or focus point. You need to switch it to the side you are checking. The elevation is called out for what side it’s on and yes it is off the very edge of the blade. Thanks for watching
@@JeffLarsen-iz8qk thanks so much for the info i usually bench the motor grader with a hub inside of my design so I can see a cut or fill and compare what my UTS gives me to what the grader shows after I bench him in. I've always used the 3rd bolt and only bench one side guess that's why he would always get different grade when he cut the opposite way.
Have you ever done both sides for UTS ? Ive seen the stair casing on UTS from only benching on the pole side .
Yes you should bench both sides when running UTS. Because you are only controlling off one side of the blade it is now using the cross slope sensor to know the elevation of the other side and it can be off. If you are using the older GCS900 system it can be a cross slope sensor out of calibration and also the mast lean in and out degree that is off to cause that if it is not just a blade wear issue. Same with earthworks if the mast has been hit or is out of calibration for the lean in and out and cross slope off you will get the stair case. Luckily if its not way off and only a little on the earthworks machine, you can adjust the blade wear from side to side individually to adjust this out or fake it out. But yes, i would always check both side of the blade to see even with UTS. Thanks for watching.
would setting the blade wear to zero then using the difference in elevation as your blade wear be a option? (on a new cutting edge not a whore one)
Well, it’s still the exact same process for a new cutting edge or worn out. I would not suggest setting to zero because then you will be off almost the difference it would be with the tape measure. A really good measured up machine and a good job site calibration should make it to where the actual tape measure length of the cutting edge would match elevation way close. This is just the best way to make sure the machine matches actual job site elevation and conditions without needing to fake out the vertical offset if that makes sense. A lot of things play into making the final finish grade for sure. Hopefully that made sense.
Kiewit sucks 😂 GPS don’t work at the when you doing parking model won’t match curb + - 300 it’s free hand
Do you mean when the machine is too far off or the model doesn't match anymore they just say free hand it? I know how that is. But no one should just changing the offset to match grade or the model, it should all be handled in the blade wear unless the machine measure up is way off. Thanks for watching.