Adam Ondra Sends 2 V16 Boulder Problems
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- čas přidán 6. 10. 2013
- Adam Ondra climbs two of the world's hardest boulder problems, suggesting V16 / 8C+ for both. First, Terranova, an extremely funky traverse at his home area near Brno, Czech Republic. Then Gioia, a problem in Varazze, Italy put up by Christian Core in 2008 and only repeated by Adam.
I climbed a v4 one time
Tyler Vena Bahahahhah!
Max Masteller you seem like ur fun at parties
Max Masteller it was a joke lmao whooooosh
@Max Masteller dude, for some reason I cant land V5s and barely V4s, yesterday I completed 2 v 10s and 2 v 7s. V5s are just harder
@Max Masteller None of it matters because bouldering is stupid
"He has a gift! And like everyone with a gift, he hast he responsibility to push up the difficulty, like 9a, 9a+ I don’t know. And same thing for the ropes. He has to do the first 9b+, the first 9c."
In lead climbing this is exactly what Adam has done. He established the first 9b+ and the first 9c.
And now Will Bosi is trying Terranova and says it feels harder than v16. If it does become v17, it'll be the first v17 ever done. Ig we'll see though.
It wouldn't surprise me if Adam got the first 9a boulder with Terranova too. Lets see what Will says after/if he sends it
@@MinecraftCoolPlayer thought burden was a v17?
@@unauthorisedvodka5920 Nalle did Burden in 2016, Adam did Terranova in 2011.
@@alexgreaves4526 ahhhh i see thanks for the info
I have a V18+ in my back yard .. no footholds no hand holds just playing flat rock.. still working on it
Luis Hernandez toe hook the arete??
Just smear really hard and use super glue on your fingers
When you master it, move to a glass wall
A V69 would be climbing atoms
@Max Masteller - then my question would be.. how high can you jump?
"Maybe 9b+ 9c" Adam ondra be like "czech that out... " and send silence
09:51
"When you have a gift it's a very nice thing, but the gift give responsibilities"
What an incredible statement
...rather kind of cheesy in my opinion. As if the world is better off with him establishing new levels of difficulty...?! So we are even more entertained watching him. It just would be dumb not to make a living out of what you can do better than everyone else.
uncle ben? NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
how else do you make a living?
And he did do the first 9b+ and the first 9c
@@95Jemo yeh was gonna say took that line straight out of spider man haha
That was insane. He was upside down with nothing to hold on to and he still traversed the damn thing. I am a complete novice to bouldering/climbing so I am obviously in awe...
Everyone is in awe, not just novice climbers :D
Only way to be better at something is to commit to that one thing and ignore everything else. Making it a passion helps too.
Same!
Thanks Satan, good advice :)
@Oliver I went from V4 to v10 once I learned one simple trick: screaming as loud as possible during each and every move.
Terranova is now the only unrepeated boulder above V15.
Could genuinely be the hardest boulder in the world and Ondra has just sandbagged everyone.
What about Megatron? But yes it would be cool if Bosi upgrades Terranova to 9A . Then Adam will have basically checked all the achievements in climbing.
@@gd1037megatron is quite new, but terranova is one of the first 8c+ outthere, of course also terranova is not in a so popular area, but i'm quite sure a lot of strong people tried it during the years
this is probably one of my favorite climbing videos ever. Adam's ascent of Terranova is a love letter to one of the most heinous boulders ever climbed (considering low overall quality magnified by impossible difficulty) but the boulder conentrates Adam's message - climbing can be all about mindset. If you enjyo the process and enjoy the beta, everything else falls into place.
Then there is this whole seperate narrative with Gioia. A classic problem giving its all to the best climber in the world. Meanwhile. the local who originally sent it becomes this sort of local guru of esoteric beta and unwavering hospitality. Chris wants other challengers to try this boulder he claims stake to.
Random rant no one will see but the stories told in this video are priceless. "One day they'll warm up on gioia".
You're the first person I've ever seen who has the same first name as me.
I agree man, climbing is beautiful. I before anything else want to be happy, I want to be a person, live a life where I can sit with friends and experience beautiful things. My parents have lived that life and I want to as well, the scene where Adam is invited to Christian's home is very touching to me, it reminds me of my parents and I too wish to do the same one day, that's why I'm training the way I am i give 0 shits about money and the rest if I even have the slightest of chances to live this sort of life I'm taking it. Gives me a reason to live
After the 8: minute mark, if i didn´t know someone was climbing nearby, i would Think someone was beeing chopped to Death by an axe.
lol
an axe wielded by Monica Seles.
LMFAO HAHAHAAHAHHA
Jimmy Gustavsson that’s understandable. His tendons must be like steel wires to still be in one piece. I can only imagine the feeling, each second every single nerve in your hands screaming “LET. GO.” and yet he keeps going..
or goku going super 3
I like how he is jumping around like Gollum in his cave after sending Gioia. He is so happy. :D
I'm having a hard time in my life guys. This guy inspires me. Impossible turns to possible!
How's life going now?
How is life now dude, you happy?
Such a nice video. I watch it like once a year. It never leaves my "Watch later" list. Christian Core predicts 9c for Adam - outrageous at the time :)
Same, come back from time to time to smile. Christian the prophet
@@kriszteblade And here I am again ;-)
Well, Xmas :)
Love to see Adams excitement every time he succeeds, it’s inspiring & shows what it means to him!!
Apart from being probably the best climber ever, Adam really is a cool guy.
He is a great climber indeed, but in my book Alex still holds the tittle. There is a huge difference in climbing with a rope knowing everything you do will be fine.
@@Mr222jim no offense, my brother. But your comment is REALLY nonsense. It's just like comparing a futsal champion with a football legend. It s two different sports. Adam Ondra simply doesn't do FREE SOLO climbing (which is moronically dangerous, as dying is never a worthy outcome, but ok...). He does SPORT CLIMBING, which Alex also does, but not even REMOTELY close to Adam's level. It's just like saying "oh, but Michael Jordan is not the best Basketball player ever, because he is not the best slam dunker ever"...
@@Mr222jim from what I’ve seen the climbing community will hate this
@@sore_forey9259 yeah technically adam is clearly better but he is right tho, the pinnacle of climbing is free soloing and nobody can do what alex does, climbing with rope and without is day and night so I would say alex is by far the best climber because nobody has the confidence in his skills like alex does.
@@Mr222jim Adam has done routes first try that are harder than any route Honnold has ever done. Honnold is good at doing relatively easy (for elite climbers) moves with the risk of death, while adam is better at climbing overall. If all u know about climbing is one flick, prolly best to stfu
What an animal, and he still seems to have his humility intact. Can't help but like this kid
Christian Core is an amazing being. So wholesome to watch these guys!
he looked like gollum when he was at the top screaming XD
Climbing to find his precious
Literally had the same thought
XD
He looks like the rock climbing version of a hobbit. At least his hair has changed in recent years
I'm really glad to see Adam climbing such a hard boulder and not only that. It makes me and my country proud of him. BRAVO
So great to see this again after a decade+. I bet getting to that 2nd climb's heel toe cam must have felt like heaven!
The fact that Terranova is still unrepeated to this day shows that it’s no way it’s only a V16 and that Adam was on a entirely different level.
Bro u saw the line it's mid as hell, it's unrepeated for lack of interest not lack of strong climbers. That being said, the current strongest boulderers are definitely a new generation
Crazy that this could be upgraded to a V17
Man, he just scrambled up the rock when he got it lol
This is a really really nice short... It's personal, intimate and learns us so much more about the climbers than a "just-another-hard-boulder-flick". Thanks for making and sharing!
The relieve after having done the second one is truly inspiring. That's the feeling of exceeding your own limitations, just awesome.
I love how the guy at the end says Adam has a resposibility to do the first 9b+ and 9c, and now Adam has done just that.
Gracias Adam por tu ejemplo para todos los que practicamos este deporte de la escalada en cualquier modalidad
Adam Ondra's climb descriptions are becoming very entertaining! I think he has a good sense of humor.
Old school, same guy. Nice words of wisdom. Climb on!
What a great prediction / wish. The first one to send 9C (Silence)
How do they determine the grade?
@@ian9toes It's all about feelings ^^ If you find a route much harder than everything you made till today, you can consider a new grade. But often at high levels the routes are down graded because someone else try and find a better beta than the first climber. So wait and see for Silence, but there are many reasons to think it's a real 9c
Considering Will Bosi upgraded 2nd half of this climb nova to v15, maybe this one is a hidden v17 this whole time
Interesting how he used two different shoes in the first problem.
Right foot for heels, left foot for toes
Didn't notice that! Thanks for pointing that out.
Yeah, the Futura is great at edging but not so great at heel hooks.
Derfoklishe it’s the other shoe that is great for edging...
Eventhough he screams like hell, it's somehow very calming to watch him climb
You're such a beast Adam :D
He's really taken the Chris Sharma scream to heart lol
+Space Tiger lol, nice one.
You've got it the wrong way round bud
@@TheCasualCosmonaut How so? Chris is older gen and has been doing it way longer than Adam. Sounds like you don't know what you're talking about "bud".
if just screaming would get me up moves this hard you would hear me screaming on the friggin moon...Your a beast adam jam on brother
Why doesn't he just walk around the boulder?
Its prob boring
Well he Maybe thinks it’s fun
There's no way up there without climbing
This comment stupid
@@dylusional419 it’s a joke
While climbing his back looks so awesome!!!
wanna know how to become a great sport climber folks well this is it.I have been a sport climber for over 30 years and in my prime I always stressed to friends in my circle that bouldering was the key to becoming a 5.13 plus climber.I really just prefer bouldering these days to climbing mainly because of how easy it is to go do, no belay,no ropes and gear,no long roadtrips,just grab your shoes and chalk and jam..so psyched for the spring
Adam indeed had a gift and boy did he deliver, tenfold
Christian was so wise when he saw this in Adam
I love watching this dude climb, for real
Very thoughtfull and smooth - enjoyable to watch.
Bravo Adam !
Christian Core seems like the nicest most genuine dude on the planet! I just want to hang out with that guy and listen to him talk about stuff!
This guy comes from outer space for sure
Adam relaxing on a V13 at the end XD
Dude you have the talent and your consistent keep trying youll get it.
It makes me happy and motivated.
Eventhough am not a climber .
Greatness. Absolute greatness.
Best sending reaction i've seen
stanley yelnats went from digging holes to climbing rocks, good on him.
LMAOOOOOO
It's surprising how accurate Christian was at the end of the video.
"The gift gives responsibilities."
Beautiful.
bouldering, BJJ, capoeria, yoga, these things are all so vastly different but so similar and beautiful!!!
That dedication out of the world Wow
Your power screams sound loke a mix between a squeezy rubber duck and constipation and i love it
Imagine just wandering around in the woods, not knowing anything about climbing and all of a sudden you hear those awful screams :-) Amzing routes btw especially the second one looks very demanding!
I love his excitement.
Adam after failing: 😤😠
Also Adam, 5 seconds after failing: 😁🤗
So true
this video used to have a different song playing during the first boulder, and Adam was describing the moves. They dubbed over it.
i know! I wonder why they made that decision. The new music is really not as good
the video is much worse now
especially because the commentary is missing
This is such a good video
Never gets old!
very strong.... the travel of iniciation... good job.
Amazing my friend amazing
Very well said. (Ending comments). And he has delivered!
Goals...truly amazing
Just amazing!
That 2nd problem was dramatic and awesome!
When ya girl says her parents are gone for the weekend and she lives on top of Terranova 😂😂😂
Crazy moves! The second song of this clip... what is it called? Fits perfectly for this scene!
I like how Terranova was just padding in this video, and now Will Bosi is talking like it might actually be a v17.
Terranova is perhaps the least aesthetic hard boulder in the world.
Definately not a king line this one :)))) It hardly looks like a boulder, more a lowball traverse. Maybe in person it is logical.
muy fuerte .... el recorrido de Iniciación ... buen trabajo.
jeezus that first hold at 1:17
I did this the other day. Flashed it, used a jetpack though.
never though of rock climbing in the way these guys describe it! Very fascinating
This video is from 2013 but damn, the quality of the shots as well as choice of shots is so freaking well-crafted I would believe it immediately that it just released - apart from the lack of 60frames per second footage ofc.
I don't know how much money was in sponsorships 8 years ago already but this video really shows the apreciation for the art of film making as well as bouldering
Hi, Chuck Fryberger here. I filmed this video and I really appreciate your comment. It was an honor to work with Adam and to meet one of my own personal heros Christian Core at the same time.
@@sparkshop5259 Hey, Chuck. You've created one of the most impressive video of those days. I just rewached it after 9 years to check out Adam's beta to compare with Will's. Seems to me that with video you've set out a new aestetics of climbing film. This concept really became popular since then. Props.
What a classic video! s2
You guys make this impossible stuff look easy.
This made me cry
8 years later and he’s the goat
ya just toss in an 8b in the credits... no big deal
nice warm up!!!
My body aches watching this video. Ondra is the man.
Noone acknowledge Christian Core? He seems like the most self centered, positive and wise Person I have ever seen!
pure dedication.
But can he do cliffs of dover on expert?
Lmaoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
"Aaahhhgggghh!!" - Adam Ondra, 2014
Predicted 9c and now Adam has done it
Re the shouting - Eric Horst explains it in an analysis of Ondra's climb of "Silence" :
Adam alternates between brief moments of breath-holding (Valsalva maneuver to maximize core stiffness and stability) and forceful exhalations, which compel inhalations that maintain arterial oxygen saturation (important to support aerobic power production). I don’t know if Adam was ever coached to do this or if it’s just intuitive for him, but his MO of screaming through hard sequences is an excellent strategy to drive deep breathing and maintain aerobic power, by avoiding the common problem of “legacy breath holding” (as I call it) in which you continue to breath-hold beyond the instant of doing a single hard move (this results in hypoxia and a greater rate of fatigue).
:)
That's cool and all, but you don't need to vibrate your vocal cords in order to exhale.
@@codyheiner3636 Not for Adam during super difficult climbs. The screaming is what helps/forces him to exhale. He said he doesn't really like it either, but it does the job for him.
Beautiful
that crossover move at 8:27 seriously made me sweat sitting at my computer...sick puppy
So inspiring...
I've never climbed like that but i could see through the lens that it must feel like needles impaling fingertips while ligaments are slowly tearing apart !!! Ouchies !!! Mind over matter !!! 🏆💪👍👑
An open question related to this and La Dura Complete video: How much consent is needed to confirm that a certain problem is actually a new, higher difficulty rating? Do we call it V16 because only two top climbers have climbed it and we need to take their word for it? After a certain difficulty, do climbers start practicing proficiency in individual niche skills, making some (hard) problems more or less difficult to various individuals, and do the ratings hold any value at that point? I'd love to hear some opinions, and links to other places where this discussion is happening.
consensus for hard routes, as well as easy, is not strictly required, but the first ascender chooses a rating. Sometimes, famous climbers will publicly downgrade a route, in spite of FA's rating. Most routes are compared to other routes of similar difficulty in the area. At the high end, routes of even very different character are compared by their climbers. A 5.14d on a slightly overhanging wall in Red River Gorge won't climb the same way a super steep Oman cave does. Shorter climbers often use smaller intermediate holds, while taller ones make bigger moves to larger features. The most contentious rating is a new hardest rating, but if you're climbing the hardest route in the world, no one knows better than you if it's harder than other routes that have been climbed. You establish your reputation by first climbing known routes about which others agree. When Sharma climbed Realization, it had been set and tried by others who climbed 5.14d. No one could do it. Sharma climbed it and rated it 5.15.
I have to agree with Kevin Gabelman pretty much 100% spot on. He (or she) who climbs a route first gets the privilege of grading it, but as with all climbing it is about self motivation and accomplishment so grading a 12b as a 13a is a bit silly and everyone who climbs it will know that it is graded (super) soft. As for these super hard routes that only 1 or 2 people have ever climbed, realistically these climbers have decades of experience and they know what they are doing. So yes we kind of just have to trust them but in reality I'm sure the grades are on point.
If you think the climb is easier than the first ascender graded it, you can prove your point by climbing it yourself. If it's harder, the absence of repeats will sort of make the point. For example, Alex Huber graded 'Open Air' as 9a in 1996. But then, even though many other 9a's had been climbed by all kinds of people, no-one repeated 'Open Air' for over 16 years. Finally Ondra repeated it in 2012, and said it should probably be upgraded to 9a+. Given the lack of repeats as well as Ondra's reputation, plus the fact that he has no ax to grind (having climbed many routes that are even harder) most people now accept the 9a+ grade.
old but still gold!
8:55 - Smeagol gets to top of rock!
+ArsenicDrone you go there and do the same, bitch.
+ArsenicDrone haha was about to write the same thing!
+jeeperscreepers7 chillout!
fuck off with your hollywood crap
8o
you are the best Adam
I fucking love Adam Ondra. He's such an awesome ambassador for the sport.
bellissimo come esulta :)
After training for 3 months I think I can watch the whole video
whats the song at 2:45??? swae lee used that drum sample for sunflower lol
9:05 smeagol
lololol sooo true
Jordan Huus exactly what I thought! hahaha
+Jordan Huus Yeah^^ I actually think the fact, that this comparison comes to mind, is a testament to the quality of movement Andy Serkis was able to achieve in his performance.
xddddddddd
fuck off with your holywood crap