Originally of Chinese design but the chuka bocho is the Japanese version made with similar qualities and materials as other Japanese knives. I think of the chuka bocho to the Chinese cleaver as I do the gyuto to the French chefs knife! Similar yes, but different at the same time!
Great video especially for beginners. I don’t think you explained San mai , warikomi, or honyaki. The knife anatomy section was very helpful. Thank you.
that is literally single most complete video on entire entiernet, should be used in every japanese knife related source in the planet, thank you its awesome, you very good at cutting the crap and get to the point, wish half the planet was like that 😂❤
i have a large collection of mid level knives and have noticed that one always 'pings' on the (plastic) cutting board i use. At first use i thought it was chipping but no edge damage seen but it seems to do it ever slice. Any thoughts?
It's your edge going in the board and you likely having a bit of a twist in your hand movement. the ping is like your edge getting bent but springing back most likely. He did a video on it a while ago, I'll give a timestamped link to it. Maybe the sound is a bit familiar czcams.com/video/MGLrkjfG2OY/video.html
@iggywow hit the nail on the head! My guess is its your thinnest knife, your hardest knife, or perhaps just the knife that you tend to reach for when doing rougher tasks like the two hand rolling chop!
I just priced some of the stones both american and japanese and we are talking about spending at least 80 dollars upwards of two to three hundred dollars. Looking at stones that have been severely dished out center, I estimate that up 30% of the stone will be wasted during the lapping period.. What do you suggest to reduce this waste?
Most of this doesn't matter. Just pick a knife you find pretty can afford and that is resonably hard. The behind the edge / laser part is the only thing people should know. If you are looking for any exceptional cutting experience, then it's all about the grind (mostly the primary bevel) maybe a nice distal taper, the profile, the handle fit (to your hand and cutting style) and the finish (rounded polished spine etc). Knives like that are hard to come by, because knife makers and company's don't like the effort, the cost and the risks / challanges that come alone with grinding a blade that thin. But that's why it's so hard to beat the Victorinox knife or the Chan Chi Kee KF1301 (the later is my favorite factory made knife right now. my Kramer by Zwilling stinks in comparison). You forgot to talk about Hamons and non Kanji (Japanese use multiple alphabets) stamps.
Hi, do you think there is too much difference between Usuba and Nakiri for beginner level? I bought a nice budget friendly Usuba (KAI MGR-0165N SEKI MAGOROKU) while not knowing that knife is Usuba rather than Nakiri. Now thinking if I should return it and order Nakiri. I could not find any Nakiri with Japanese handle in my budget (
It's not first black, you're talking about kuroichi 黒一 The finish is kurouchi 黒打, or literally black strike Migaki 磨き doesn't only mean polish, but it also means brush, as in a brushed finish. This means you don't have to use the Japanese word in this case since it's just literally brushed finish
A bunka is a mid sized knife, where as a kiritsuke is 210mm+ generally. A bunka is also always double beveled, where as a kiritsuke is traditionally a single bevel knife design, we carry kiritsuke style gyutos which are more versatile and easier to use/maintain, but you will also see kiritsuke style slicers in both single and double bevel which usually just refers to the reverse tanto tip!
The stainless/high carbon steel knife you showed around the 5:10 time marker was stainless core with high carbon cladding (the big giveaway was the darker body which only get with high carbon and not stainless) other than that good explanation)
”Kasumi” is not really a blade finish (such as mikagi, kurouchi or tsuchime, etc.), but rather, a finish of the kireha on laminated blades. Also, you skipped nashiji finish. It would have been goid to show cross section cut differences between single and double beveled knives.
The Nakiri should not have a straight profile and thr cutting edge should not get in contact with entire length on the cutting board! The Usuba does not cut "away" from the hand, but other way arround, wich is inside tward the left hand (for right handed blades)
Profile comes down to preference, mine is dead flat and I prefer it that way personally, but I see why some people could want some rock or a turned up nose on them. As for the usuba you are absolutely correct, the blade steers towards the ura, our mistake!
Have any questions? Did we miss anything? Let us know!
chuka bocho??
@@frozenthrone5311Chinese
Not something we normally carry, I do have one in the personal collection well try to include in the next iteration!
Originally of Chinese design but the chuka bocho is the Japanese version made with similar qualities and materials as other Japanese knives. I think of the chuka bocho to the Chinese cleaver as I do the gyuto to the French chefs knife! Similar yes, but different at the same time!
Great video especially for beginners. I don’t think you explained San mai , warikomi, or honyaki. The knife anatomy section was very helpful. Thank you.
Thats a good point! We'll have to add that to the list for the next try haha!
That was the perfect review of Japanese knives. Very succinct. Great job!
that is literally single most complete video on entire entiernet, should be used in every japanese knife related source in the planet, thank you its awesome, you very good at cutting the crap and get to the point, wish half the planet was like that 😂❤
Crazy man, that was the most well covered and concise video put together on this subject ever, well done. Lol
Such a amazing video, not to long, many informations and perfekt to get into japanese knifes. Really love it, thank you😍👌🏻🔪
So glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching !
Concise and informative. Well done!
Love it, thanks for the content. Picked up some stuff from y'all! Keep up the great work.
Great overview Gage, thank you!
Great job! Thank you!
Great video!!!
very knowledgeable. arigato pakli buto .
Thanks Gage
Fun watch guys. Just curious, what was the santoku at the very end? The one used as the wa handle example knife. It looked almost Yoshikane SKD like.
i have a large collection of mid level knives and have noticed that one always 'pings' on the (plastic) cutting board i use. At first use i thought it was chipping but no edge damage seen but it seems to do it ever slice. Any thoughts?
It's your edge going in the board and you likely having a bit of a twist in your hand movement. the ping is like your edge getting bent but springing back most likely. He did a video on it a while ago, I'll give a timestamped link to it. Maybe the sound is a bit familiar czcams.com/video/MGLrkjfG2OY/video.html
@@iggywow damn,you got it but why only one knife i wonder?
@iggywow hit the nail on the head! My guess is its your thinnest knife, your hardest knife, or perhaps just the knife that you tend to reach for when doing rougher tasks like the two hand rolling chop!
I just priced some of the stones both american and japanese and we are talking about spending at least 80 dollars upwards of two to three hundred dollars. Looking at stones that have been severely dished out center, I estimate that up 30% of the stone will be wasted during the lapping period.. What do you suggest to reduce this waste?
Most of this doesn't matter. Just pick a knife you find pretty can afford and that is resonably hard. The behind the edge / laser part is the only thing people should know.
If you are looking for any exceptional cutting experience, then it's all about the grind (mostly the primary bevel) maybe a nice distal taper, the profile, the handle fit (to your hand and cutting style) and the finish (rounded polished spine etc).
Knives like that are hard to come by, because knife makers and company's don't like the effort, the cost and the risks / challanges that come alone with grinding a blade that thin.
But that's why it's so hard to beat the Victorinox knife or the Chan Chi Kee KF1301 (the later is my favorite factory made knife right now. my Kramer by Zwilling stinks in comparison).
You forgot to talk about Hamons and non Kanji (Japanese use multiple alphabets) stamps.
Hi, do you think there is too much difference between Usuba and Nakiri for beginner level? I bought a nice budget friendly Usuba (KAI MGR-0165N SEKI MAGOROKU) while not knowing that knife is Usuba rather than Nakiri. Now thinking if I should return it and order Nakiri. I could not find any Nakiri with Japanese handle in my budget (
Top marks on your Japanese pronunciation!
It's not first black, you're talking about kuroichi 黒一
The finish is kurouchi 黒打, or literally black strike
Migaki 磨き doesn't only mean polish, but it also means brush, as in a brushed finish. This means you don't have to use the Japanese word in this case since it's just literally brushed finish
That was even a mouthful for a senior seasoned user. 😄🔪🔪
Who makes the Damascus knife?
What’s the main location in Etobicoke? Or Hamilton?
We love both of our locations equally
i still dont get the diff between kirutski and bunka
A bunka is a mid sized knife, where as a kiritsuke is 210mm+ generally. A bunka is also always double beveled, where as a kiritsuke is traditionally a single bevel knife design, we carry kiritsuke style gyutos which are more versatile and easier to use/maintain, but you will also see kiritsuke style slicers in both single and double bevel which usually just refers to the reverse tanto tip!
The stainless/high carbon steel knife you showed around the 5:10 time marker was stainless core with high carbon cladding (the big giveaway was the darker body which only get with high carbon and not stainless) other than that good explanation)
Jizakai.. who didnt chuckle at this.
I want a bunka or a kiritsuke so bad lol
Yeah theyre pretty sweet eh?!
Careful, those be gateway drugs.
@@johnniemiec3286 too late bought one yesterday ….
@@michelinman7797 welcome to the dark side. We have carbon steel.
@@johnniemiec3286 I now need more in my life .
Ko-bunka could have gotten a shout out. Any excuse to show a Shibata...
”Kasumi” is not really a blade finish (such as mikagi, kurouchi or tsuchime, etc.), but rather, a finish of the kireha on laminated blades. Also, you skipped nashiji finish. It would have been goid to show cross section cut differences between single and double beveled knives.
You didn't show a boning knife. The first and only Japanese knife I have so far. For trimming all that fat off of chicken, steaks, and brisket!
The Nakiri should not have a straight profile and thr cutting edge should not get in contact with entire length on the cutting board!
The Usuba does not cut "away" from the hand, but other way arround, wich is inside tward the left hand (for right handed blades)
Profile comes down to preference, mine is dead flat and I prefer it that way personally, but I see why some people could want some rock or a turned up nose on them. As for the usuba you are absolutely correct, the blade steers towards the ura, our mistake!
You wouldn't bite through nuts? 😆