Speedway motors straight axle (Jeep Rod part 4)
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- čas přidán 22. 09. 2022
- I put this straight axle from Speedway motors together for the jeep rat rod we are building. In this video I show you how and give you my thoughts on the axle.
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#speedwaymotors #speedway #jeep #willysjeep #axle #ratrod #hotrod #customcars #custombuild #custom - Auta a dopravní prostředky
That's quite the puzzle there ,Anthony!
That’s some hammering skills. Front end looks good. Can’t wait to see the next video.
The caps should be installed with the crown up & then expanded with a punch to tighten in the bore, which ensures a good seal to keep out moisture. I think they used to be referred to as soft plugs for that reason.
As mentioned already, they’re adapting a stock application rotor to different spindle. Drive the race out of the rotor and replace it with the separate supplied race. They are different.
💙💙💙
Good work .
Cheers, good detailed run down 👌👌
You may find out the 4 caps are only meant for the top to keep moisture out, although Steve makes a good point as to how they install,
We have one under our 33 Plymouth coupe. We didn't use the one with the welded on radius rods, we had parallel leaves. These set ups are rear steer. Otherwise the Ackerman is off.
This was really helpful. I’m getting ready to start my first T Bucket. I appreciate trust! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
You should be using anti- seize on the threaded components or blue lock-tight unless you are just test fitting parts .
Great info thx 👍
You bet
Suggestion to Speedway, make sure EVERYTHING fits, overseas customers can't just phone them for replacement parts.
Otherwise, good looking kit, although I probably won't ever require one 👍👍👍👍👍👍
The kit I got which is like most they sale the new race adapts spindle to rotors. The taper is different for chevy and ford just like the pitman arm holes. I had to knock the ones on the rotors out and knock the correct size ones in If you look close you will see the rotor will not sit on the race correctly.
This is all chevy and it looked like it was sitting correctly
In watching this series I got to thinking about 2-88wranglers my neighbor had across the street. I literally stopped watching this video to call him. And I just acquired a black four-wheel-drive 88 jeep wrangler with a solid tub and frame to start my rat rod built! Thanks for the inspiration.!! Do you happen to to have a link to that front end kit?
I had a link, but it isn't good anymore, but you can find it at Speedway Motors
Great job and looks good 👍👍🇨🇱
Thanks 👍
faf mans fabrication has a really good video on it
Ackerman looks right to me, the steering arms have to point at the center of the rear axle on a front steer set-up
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Nice job Anthony I believe the taper on the race was in the Rota is different than the Bering that’s why they give you the new race I install the set and they were different
The kit I got which is like most they sale the new race adapts ford spindle to chevy rotors. The taper is different for chevy and ford just like the pitman arm holes.
This set up is all chevy and the race looks the same
@@HardCoreFab as long as you checked fit and made sure it is sitting right. Drum setups us a different pitch the rotors. On mine it looked the same but looking close I could see it was sitting not flush could see race was not completely lined up with bearing. Quick easy check it taking the bearing and slide it on the one on the spindle and see how it sits and then take the bearing and put it on the other one and see how it sits. You might have just got lucky with fitment but I would make sure you double checked fitment on both to confirm the eye can not see a small degree difference. Cool video take care.
I can't tell ya how many cars I have seen at shows and on you tube built with a Speedway or other dropped/straight axle, that have no regard to PROPER Akerman geometry. Akerman is just as fundamental to a front end as camber, caster, toe, ect. It is what gives the ability of the two front wheels to turn on different radius to keep tire scuffing and poor handling out of the picture. It's so easy to spot on an open T bucket just at a casual glance. With the tires facing straight ahead, an imaginary line (or actual line) must run through the top center of the king pin, through the center-line of the center link rod end, , and continue straight back to the center of the rear axle; all in a straight line. It's difficult to do unless the center link spindle arms are behind the spindles. This is BASIC front end building.
Yes, but with the springs dropped, it's the only way you can mount the frontend
I have the same front end with dropped spring and it's easy to set up. They're your tires! LOL @@HardCoreFab
How do you have the spring and the drag link both occupying the same space
Wrong steering arms for a front steer. They would need to point way out to the outside. The drag link would probably fit to the rear. Might just need to heat and bend the arms a little. And add bigger washers on the rod ends so when the centers pull out(cheap)the rod can't pull apart. Radius rods too. (Race car stuff) And I always found the supplied bolts are too short. Makes your parts sit on threads instead of the shaft (load bearing) part of the bolt. (and half the time, bolts aren't even grade 8's... ) Still think you shoulda built a killer independent...
hola cuarseria el presio deuno completo
How come you don't use thread lube when you assembled the axle parts?
Hello, What is your thought on putting a mustang II rack & pinion on the back side of a tube axle like this one? I am thinking of fabing some mounting bkt to bolt one on my spring over the axle tube axle.
I'm sure you could probably make it work. Speedway already makes a rack to do a cross over steering on a straight axle you might look at too.
Did you change the wheel studs. I need longer ones
Nope
shouldn’t the spring perches have the shock mounted at the other end? like flipped so it has the bolt for the shock attached to the axle. looks kind of strange having it attached to the perch instead of the axle. other wise it seems cool.
You know I hadn't thought about it. HMMMMMMM......
This is actually a dropped tube axle, a straight axle is just that straight. Factory axles that are also called straight are actually beam axles. Just a little history lesson lol.
I thought the leaf spring was the shock absorber?
Sorry they are not
ANTISIEZE ?
Most important question, how much does it all cost.
around 1500 I think
@@HardCoreFab that's not too bad
there's no link
Sorry not sure where it went but you can find all of that at Speedway motors
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not right now but thinks
Anything that moves, lube it first......
good point